davec
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davec reacted to RGL in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Green grunge next, using Tamiya clear green oversprayed. I will given it a diluted black wash to dull it down and add some texture. The final step will be putting the 4 propellers into some blackening agent to dull them down as well. When I finally put the model on its' base I will cut the brass rods right down so it will sit about an inch off the base so the underside will not be so obvious.
Yes Mr Rabbit the kit is huge. Painting these large areas is challenging to say the least, as you never know how much to put in the airbrush. It also makes it hard to photograph.
I'm somewhat satisfied with my first attempt at weathering to date.
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davec reacted to RGL in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Grunge coat, I have added a light coat off buff the bottom of the hull, next will be some clear green to represent even more hull grunge. I have tried to remove a lot of the salt, but I suspect when I give the hull a clear coat even more will go.
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davec reacted to RGL in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Thanks Pat.
The second last step on the hull base is salt. I have done a salt line on the waterline, as well as from the scuppers and beneath the hawsers and along the centre armour belt. The Starboard side is not done, next is the Port side which I won't get to till next week. Thoughts for improvements?
Once that is done back to the airbrush.
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davec reacted to RGL in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Weathering time! I've never tried this before, and as there is so much detail on the hull, I want to get the hull weathering done first so I can airbrush a grunge coat on the bottom then leave it on the stand to work on.
I have used (so far) rust/green slime, with salt then a grunge coat underneath. Half the hull done after a full day. You can see the bits where the paint came off as I removed the tape an I have used a light and a dark rust product.
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davec reacted to RGL in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Next is the foredeck, wash added, then drybrushed to bring out detail. Once it sets I can start on rust, chipping and grime etc.
The rear aircraft deck next, same thing. Eventually I will drybrush the railings silver to show wear.
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davec reacted to RGL in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
To make the hull a little less bland, I have started the washes, covering the degausing cable and deadlights. I intend to drybrush over the next to bring out the detail.
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davec reacted to RGL in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
The base colour is done! I removed the masking tape and have a few chips on the lower hull, but I intend to make them rust spots anyway. I have added the hull depth markers and the ships name and crest on the bow.
Next will be to paint the scuppers then start the weathering. I'm not sure if I'm happy with the paintwork yet on the upper hull, but I'm expecting the weathering and washes to bring it to life.
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davec reacted to RGL in IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC
Moving on with the hull, preshading, base grey, lighter grey along the plate lines, the rear flight deck which was concrete. I have subsequently done a 90% diluted overspray with The same light grey which is a 50/50 white grey mix to take off the sharp edges and diffuse the colour. I won't get back to her till next week now when I will add a grey filter. Once that sets I will remove the masking skirts and add the depth marker decals. Then the weathering begins.
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davec reacted to AlexBaranov in Standart 1893 by AlexBaranov - FINISHED - scale 1:48 - Imperial yacht
несколько фотографий
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davec reacted to Torbogdan in Fokker Dr.I by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Model Airways
When I was going to continue with the fuselage I noticed that someone had used up all my glue... When I asked my 5 year old about it she just said she needed glue for her projects. Who am I to say that it was wrong...
So I´ll have to get some more tomorrow. So instead I started on the horizontal tail. The fuselage can be seen in the background.
The soldering on the tail went very well.
I have one question for you all. Should I paint the fuselage with silver paint to simulate the welded steel? Or should I keep the color of the different metals used for the model.
In other words should I keep it looking like a "true model" (no paint) or should I go for a more "miniature" look and paint it? I cannot make my mind up which to choose. I think both sides have merit. I´m like a donkey between two haystacks, I change my mind a couple of times a day
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davec reacted to Torbogdan in Fokker Dr.I by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Model Airways
A quick update before off to work. Being excited how last evenings work worked out I got up earlier than necessary this morning and added a few more stringers. So far I´m very pleased.
I can imagine realigning the fuselage with tension wires must have been a chore. Was it the maneuvering of the aircraft during air combat that was partly responsible for the "twisting" of the fuselage? I had no idea this had to be done. But since the aircraft was covered with cloth did they remove and replace the cloth or did they have "access panels" in the skin so to speak?
Amazing what can be learned here by knowledgeable people
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davec reacted to Torbogdan in Fokker Dr.I by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Model Airways
Adding the stringers to the frames. Not easy, at all... Getting everything aligned and centered and not having the top stringers "pop loose" as there is some tension is difficult..
Some picture from the drawings how the parts should be aligned to fit each other
Important to note how close the engine frame are to the other frame, the first of the "aircraft frames".
using one rubber band was way too tight. using two was way to slack. But using the clamps and two rubber bands was perfect. That way I could adjust the tension perfectly.
I want the rubber band to hold the stringer in place but not really put much pressure on it so that it bends or deforms or pushes the frames out of alignment.
The two top stringers in place. It took quite a long time to get everything in place, Now I will glue them in place. I will use cyanoacrylate glue aka super glue. The instructions says epoxy, but this should work.
The two top stringers are not to join with the last frame. Two shorter stringers go from the second to last frame to the last frame. So far so good.
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davec reacted to Torbogdan in Fokker Dr.I by Torbogdan - FINISHED - Model Airways
First a picture of the frames then the same frames and engine mount mounted in the jig. A bit tricky as all the frames will need to be perfectly aligned to each other. I must say that the instructions are very good. At first I did not like them so much but now I have changed my mind totally. It is almost like a kitchen cook book, just follow the instructions exactly and you can´t go wrong...
It is a good idea to read ahead a bit for each new part or section you are building. Reading ahead and looking at the pictures of the finished parts helps a lot as it is othewise slightly like not seeing the forest for all the trees. When you know what the finished piece/section will look like you get a much better picture/understanding of the instructions you try to follow to get there.
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davec got a reaction from thibaultron in Question for Jim Bryne's Saw Owners and Preac Saw Owners
Definitely keep both. I have both, and have them both set up all the time. I tend to have the Byrnes set up to rip, and the Preac for cross cutting - saves having to remove the fence from the Byrnes whenever I want to cross cut anything more than a few inches long. I particularly like the Preac for fine cutting - the parts tend not to fly as far away, and when I need to use a really thin blade. For blades less than .02" thick, a 2" blade is less likely to flex and wander than a 3" blade. The Preac works really well for ripping really thin wood like .024" stock for treenails. I have full sets of blades for both. While some blades get used more frequently on each saw than others, I end up using all of them, particularly for slotting.
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davec got a reaction from dvm27 in Question for Jim Bryne's Saw Owners and Preac Saw Owners
Definitely keep both. I have both, and have them both set up all the time. I tend to have the Byrnes set up to rip, and the Preac for cross cutting - saves having to remove the fence from the Byrnes whenever I want to cross cut anything more than a few inches long. I particularly like the Preac for fine cutting - the parts tend not to fly as far away, and when I need to use a really thin blade. For blades less than .02" thick, a 2" blade is less likely to flex and wander than a 3" blade. The Preac works really well for ripping really thin wood like .024" stock for treenails. I have full sets of blades for both. While some blades get used more frequently on each saw than others, I end up using all of them, particularly for slotting.
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davec got a reaction from mtaylor in Where to buy wood
I'm still working off a pear slab that I got from righteous lumber (http://www.righteouswoods.com/) about 10 years ago. They are still in business. I bought 4/4, but they had 8/4 and thicker (can remember if it was 10/4 or 12/4) as well. When I purchased from them, I lived in MA and picked out my piece and drove home with it. I think they ship.
I have also been very impressed with Gilmer wood. I just bought a couple of pieces of boxwood from them. If you order from them, call them and tell them what you are looking for. I had planned to buy two pieces that looked good in the pictures on their website. When I spoke with them and explained I was building model ships, they said the pieces I was interested in weren't good enough, and if I was OK waiting, they would contact me when they had better. They emailed me about 8 weeks later. What I ended up getting was really beautiful - great color, tight grained, very uniform. I was really impressed with the service.
Dave
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davec got a reaction from BANYAN in Question for Jim Bryne's Saw Owners and Preac Saw Owners
Definitely keep both. I have both, and have them both set up all the time. I tend to have the Byrnes set up to rip, and the Preac for cross cutting - saves having to remove the fence from the Byrnes whenever I want to cross cut anything more than a few inches long. I particularly like the Preac for fine cutting - the parts tend not to fly as far away, and when I need to use a really thin blade. For blades less than .02" thick, a 2" blade is less likely to flex and wander than a 3" blade. The Preac works really well for ripping really thin wood like .024" stock for treenails. I have full sets of blades for both. While some blades get used more frequently on each saw than others, I end up using all of them, particularly for slotting.
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davec got a reaction from Canute in Where to buy wood
I'm still working off a pear slab that I got from righteous lumber (http://www.righteouswoods.com/) about 10 years ago. They are still in business. I bought 4/4, but they had 8/4 and thicker (can remember if it was 10/4 or 12/4) as well. When I purchased from them, I lived in MA and picked out my piece and drove home with it. I think they ship.
I have also been very impressed with Gilmer wood. I just bought a couple of pieces of boxwood from them. If you order from them, call them and tell them what you are looking for. I had planned to buy two pieces that looked good in the pictures on their website. When I spoke with them and explained I was building model ships, they said the pieces I was interested in weren't good enough, and if I was OK waiting, they would contact me when they had better. They emailed me about 8 weeks later. What I ended up getting was really beautiful - great color, tight grained, very uniform. I was really impressed with the service.
Dave
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davec got a reaction from mtaylor in Question for Jim Bryne's Saw Owners and Preac Saw Owners
Definitely keep both. I have both, and have them both set up all the time. I tend to have the Byrnes set up to rip, and the Preac for cross cutting - saves having to remove the fence from the Byrnes whenever I want to cross cut anything more than a few inches long. I particularly like the Preac for fine cutting - the parts tend not to fly as far away, and when I need to use a really thin blade. For blades less than .02" thick, a 2" blade is less likely to flex and wander than a 3" blade. The Preac works really well for ripping really thin wood like .024" stock for treenails. I have full sets of blades for both. While some blades get used more frequently on each saw than others, I end up using all of them, particularly for slotting.
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davec got a reaction from Canute in Question for Jim Bryne's Saw Owners and Preac Saw Owners
Definitely keep both. I have both, and have them both set up all the time. I tend to have the Byrnes set up to rip, and the Preac for cross cutting - saves having to remove the fence from the Byrnes whenever I want to cross cut anything more than a few inches long. I particularly like the Preac for fine cutting - the parts tend not to fly as far away, and when I need to use a really thin blade. For blades less than .02" thick, a 2" blade is less likely to flex and wander than a 3" blade. The Preac works really well for ripping really thin wood like .024" stock for treenails. I have full sets of blades for both. While some blades get used more frequently on each saw than others, I end up using all of them, particularly for slotting.
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davec got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Where to buy wood
I'm still working off a pear slab that I got from righteous lumber (http://www.righteouswoods.com/) about 10 years ago. They are still in business. I bought 4/4, but they had 8/4 and thicker (can remember if it was 10/4 or 12/4) as well. When I purchased from them, I lived in MA and picked out my piece and drove home with it. I think they ship.
I have also been very impressed with Gilmer wood. I just bought a couple of pieces of boxwood from them. If you order from them, call them and tell them what you are looking for. I had planned to buy two pieces that looked good in the pictures on their website. When I spoke with them and explained I was building model ships, they said the pieces I was interested in weren't good enough, and if I was OK waiting, they would contact me when they had better. They emailed me about 8 weeks later. What I ended up getting was really beautiful - great color, tight grained, very uniform. I was really impressed with the service.
Dave
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davec got a reaction from ChrisLBren in Question for Jim Bryne's Saw Owners and Preac Saw Owners
Definitely keep both. I have both, and have them both set up all the time. I tend to have the Byrnes set up to rip, and the Preac for cross cutting - saves having to remove the fence from the Byrnes whenever I want to cross cut anything more than a few inches long. I particularly like the Preac for fine cutting - the parts tend not to fly as far away, and when I need to use a really thin blade. For blades less than .02" thick, a 2" blade is less likely to flex and wander than a 3" blade. The Preac works really well for ripping really thin wood like .024" stock for treenails. I have full sets of blades for both. While some blades get used more frequently on each saw than others, I end up using all of them, particularly for slotting.
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davec got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Question for Jim Bryne's Saw Owners and Preac Saw Owners
Definitely keep both. I have both, and have them both set up all the time. I tend to have the Byrnes set up to rip, and the Preac for cross cutting - saves having to remove the fence from the Byrnes whenever I want to cross cut anything more than a few inches long. I particularly like the Preac for fine cutting - the parts tend not to fly as far away, and when I need to use a really thin blade. For blades less than .02" thick, a 2" blade is less likely to flex and wander than a 3" blade. The Preac works really well for ripping really thin wood like .024" stock for treenails. I have full sets of blades for both. While some blades get used more frequently on each saw than others, I end up using all of them, particularly for slotting.
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davec reacted to KennyH78 in Raleigh 1777 by KennyH78 - Scale 1:96 - Continental Frigate - Hahn Plans
I had originally decided to build my Confederacy kit from Model Shipways before building the Raleigh, but once I opened the box and put the bulkhead former together I noticed that it was warped. Emailed Model Expo and have a new one on the way. Since that build is on hold and the fact that I want to build and not wait; I've decided to start my US Frigate Raleigh build from the Hahn plans that I have. The plans and timbering came from the Lumberyard. The ship will be in 1:96 scale. The timbering is cherry for the frames, keel and stem and holly for the decking. The timbering did come with some laser cut parts for the stem, stern and keel. Guess I'm kinda cheating, lol. I really hope that I am up for the challenge of a Hahn style build.
So far, I have cut the 1/8 cherry strips into the pieces to make the frame blanks and have started gluing the frame blanks for the cant and half frames. There are 33 of those and 78 full frames. I suspect that it will take roughly about a week to finish gluing up all of the blanks. Anyways, on to the pics. As always, any and all comments are welcome.
All the pieces for the half and cant frames, 34 each.
The pieces for the center full frames, 33 each.
The pieces for the rest of the full frames, 12 each.
Some of the half and cant frame blanks glued up and drying.
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davec reacted to russ in Captain Roy 1948 by russ - FINISHED - 1/48 scale - POB - Biloxi Lugger
Here are some pics of the early work on the pilot house. This is my first pass at the pilot house structure, but I may have another go at it. Not sure at this point.
In the pics, everything is dry fitted. The framing is extra heavy because I am looking for some rigidity. It will be hidden in the finished product.
Russ
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