davec

I've assembled as far as the end of step 1 and put together the HGW seatbelts. Four belts without any of the tiny photoetch parts shooting across the workshop, which is a victory for me.  

I did some work on the engine.  Biggest step forward for me was coming up with a way that works for me to wire the engine.  I had previously used EZ line, which I used on the distributor.  I have found this really hard to work with - it is so thin and soft that my fine forceps don't grasp it, and it takes a while for superglue to dry on it, so usually I made a mess.  I ordered some .2 mm lead wire and used it between the spark plugs and the pipe the wires run through.  It worked great.  I did not show the other side, which was my first attempt and where the wires are too long, the bends too sharp, and there is some visible glue.  This side I got the length right and bends that look realistic.  I found the wire much easier to work with than EZ line and I think looks a lot better.  The manifold hides a lot of the wires, but the first and third are pretty easy to see.  The engine will mostly be covered by the cowl panels, but this was a good learning experience and a path forward for my next plane with a more visible engine.

 
Anyone planning on building the D scheme (Mike) or any of the other variants with the D.IIIa engine should be aware that there is an error in the instructions that is not in the errata on the WNW website.  The kit contains parts for Mercedes D.III and D.IIIa engines.  The main difference between the variants is the right side of the cylinders.  The D.III engine uses parts E2 and E16.  The D.IIIa engine uses parts E25 and E16.  Unfortunately, the instructions for the D.IIIa has a picture of E25, but it is labeled E2.  I did not catch until long after the wrong part was glued in place.  Not an issue as I plan to build with the cowl covers in place, but it would be a problem if I wanted to leave the engine uncovered.
 

I've been working a few minutes a day on the model, but it has taken a while to get to the point where there was anything worth sharing.  As with most WNW kits, a huge amount of work is on the interior.  I had thought this would go faster because there was a lot less wood graining, but there is still a lot going on inside.  I've just finished decals, so there is a lot of gloss that will need a coat of clear flat. Even though this is one of the more recent WNW kits, I've found it slower going.  A few of the delicate parts were broken on the sprue and needed repair.  Color call outs in the instructions are less detailed.  Not sure if their research and instruction was declining as they were getting closer to closing or if there just wasn't as much information.  I think there is only one surviving plane.  A lot of the decal information is on the painting and rigging diagram.  If I hadn't looked ahead, I would have missed a lot of the lozenge decals in the cockpit, which would have been a lot harder to place once the cockpit was assembled.

I've been working a few minutes a day on the model, but it has taken a while to get to the point where there was anything worth sharing.  As with most WNW kits, a huge amount of work is on the interior.  I had thought this would go faster because there was a lot less wood graining, but there is still a lot going on inside.  I've just finished decals, so there is a lot of gloss that will need a coat of clear flat. Even though this is one of the more recent WNW kits, I've found it slower going.  A few of the delicate parts were broken on the sprue and needed repair.  Color call outs in the instructions are less detailed.  Not sure if their research and instruction was declining as they were getting closer to closing or if there just wasn't as much information.  I think there is only one surviving plane.  A lot of the decal information is on the painting and rigging diagram.  If I hadn't looked ahead, I would have missed a lot of the lozenge decals in the cockpit, which would have been a lot harder to place once the cockpit was assembled.

I did some work on the engine.  Biggest step forward for me was coming up with a way that works for me to wire the engine.  I had previously used EZ line, which I used on the distributor.  I have found this really hard to work with - it is so thin and soft that my fine forceps don't grasp it, and it takes a while for superglue to dry on it, so usually I made a mess.  I ordered some .2 mm lead wire and used it between the spark plugs and the pipe the wires run through.  It worked great.  I did not show the other side, which was my first attempt and where the wires are too long, the bends too sharp, and there is some visible glue.  This side I got the length right and bends that look realistic.  I found the wire much easier to work with than EZ line and I think looks a lot better.  The manifold hides a lot of the wires, but the first and third are pretty easy to see.  The engine will mostly be covered by the cowl panels, but this was a good learning experience and a path forward for my next plane with a more visible engine.

 
Anyone planning on building the D scheme (Mike) or any of the other variants with the D.IIIa engine should be aware that there is an error in the instructions that is not in the errata on the WNW website.  The kit contains parts for Mercedes D.III and D.IIIa engines.  The main difference between the variants is the right side of the cylinders.  The D.III engine uses parts E2 and E16.  The D.IIIa engine uses parts E25 and E16.  Unfortunately, the instructions for the D.IIIa has a picture of E25, but it is labeled E2.  I did not catch until long after the wrong part was glued in place.  Not an issue as I plan to build with the cowl covers in place, but it would be a problem if I wanted to leave the engine uncovered.
 

I've assembled as far as the end of step 1 and put together the HGW seatbelts. Four belts without any of the tiny photoetch parts shooting across the workshop, which is a victory for me.  

I've assembled as far as the end of step 1 and put together the HGW seatbelts. Four belts without any of the tiny photoetch parts shooting across the workshop, which is a victory for me.  

I've been working a few minutes a day on the model, but it has taken a while to get to the point where there was anything worth sharing.  As with most WNW kits, a huge amount of work is on the interior.  I had thought this would go faster because there was a lot less wood graining, but there is still a lot going on inside.  I've just finished decals, so there is a lot of gloss that will need a coat of clear flat. Even though this is one of the more recent WNW kits, I've found it slower going.  A few of the delicate parts were broken on the sprue and needed repair.  Color call outs in the instructions are less detailed.  Not sure if their research and instruction was declining as they were getting closer to closing or if there just wasn't as much information.  I think there is only one surviving plane.  A lot of the decal information is on the painting and rigging diagram.  If I hadn't looked ahead, I would have missed a lot of the lozenge decals in the cockpit, which would have been a lot harder to place once the cockpit was assembled.

Nice work so far!  I'll be following along and hope to see more of your work on this project.  I have a Nieuport28 in my stash.  It's the 1:16 Model Airways kit.  I'll get to it someday after I get my current projects finished and delivered to the recipients.
 
 

This one is going to a friend of mine’s office and in one of their display cabinets.
 
We’re planning on putting a 54mm figure of Eddie Rickenbacker standing next to the plane, all mounted on a wood base with model railroad grass to simulate a grass field.
 
All subassemblies are made now and awaiting priming and painting.
 



I test fitted everything a little bit ago.
 
Everything fit perfectly.
 
The next step will priming everything black and then painting the interior stuff.
 
I only have the paints for my anchors for the Esther at the moment, but that will cover most of the model except for the camouflaged exterior.
 
I need to get into my stash of eyebolts for the rigging and install them before final assembly.
 
 

Other than a single 1/48 Eduard kit I haven't built anything WW1 other than WNW, so I can't really comment on "best."  I will say they are amazing in terms of their research, detail, and engineering.  They were a little bit on the expensive side, but they occupy me for 3-4 months each, so worth the cost.  Copper State Models has gotten a great reputation as an alternate with the same quality.  I have one of their Nieuport's on the shelf and am looking forward to finding out how good they are.

Other than a single 1/48 Eduard kit I haven't built anything WW1 other than WNW, so I can't really comment on "best."  I will say they are amazing in terms of their research, detail, and engineering.  They were a little bit on the expensive side, but they occupy me for 3-4 months each, so worth the cost.  Copper State Models has gotten a great reputation as an alternate with the same quality.  I have one of their Nieuport's on the shelf and am looking forward to finding out how good they are.

Other than a single 1/48 Eduard kit I haven't built anything WW1 other than WNW, so I can't really comment on "best."  I will say they are amazing in terms of their research, detail, and engineering.  They were a little bit on the expensive side, but they occupy me for 3-4 months each, so worth the cost.  Copper State Models has gotten a great reputation as an alternate with the same quality.  I have one of their Nieuport's on the shelf and am looking forward to finding out how good they are.

Other than a single 1/48 Eduard kit I haven't built anything WW1 other than WNW, so I can't really comment on "best."  I will say they are amazing in terms of their research, detail, and engineering.  They were a little bit on the expensive side, but they occupy me for 3-4 months each, so worth the cost.  Copper State Models has gotten a great reputation as an alternate with the same quality.  I have one of their Nieuport's on the shelf and am looking forward to finding out how good they are.

Other than a single 1/48 Eduard kit I haven't built anything WW1 other than WNW, so I can't really comment on "best."  I will say they are amazing in terms of their research, detail, and engineering.  They were a little bit on the expensive side, but they occupy me for 3-4 months each, so worth the cost.  Copper State Models has gotten a great reputation as an alternate with the same quality.  I have one of their Nieuport's on the shelf and am looking forward to finding out how good they are.

Congratulations on finishing.  The model came out beautifully.  Glad she will be displayed somewhere a lot of people can see her.

Other than a single 1/48 Eduard kit I haven't built anything WW1 other than WNW, so I can't really comment on "best."  I will say they are amazing in terms of their research, detail, and engineering.  They were a little bit on the expensive side, but they occupy me for 3-4 months each, so worth the cost.  Copper State Models has gotten a great reputation as an alternate with the same quality.  I have one of their Nieuport's on the shelf and am looking forward to finding out how good they are.

Congratulations on finishing.  The model came out beautifully.  Glad she will be displayed somewhere a lot of people can see her.

Other than a single 1/48 Eduard kit I haven't built anything WW1 other than WNW, so I can't really comment on "best."  I will say they are amazing in terms of their research, detail, and engineering.  They were a little bit on the expensive side, but they occupy me for 3-4 months each, so worth the cost.  Copper State Models has gotten a great reputation as an alternate with the same quality.  I have one of their Nieuport's on the shelf and am looking forward to finding out how good they are.

Congratulations on finishing.  The model came out beautifully.  Glad she will be displayed somewhere a lot of people can see her.

And part 3 

Pretty much done, flywheels and belts will be added after painting 

Big bits on the thresher done 

Thanks for your interest and comments!
 
@Dr PR One has to keep in mind that the hull will be only about 150 mm in total and the planks will be a maximum of 1.5 mm wide and around the bulwark only 1 mm (= 160 mm on the prototype. I have been thinking about marking the planks on the bulkheads, but with the close tolerances needed, that may not be possible. I started marking out the whale, but that has to be improved still, as the tapering is not yet considered. Tapering the planks at that size will be a challenge. I may calculate the width from the CAD and then make a print-out on paper and try to shape the planks to this paper template. I will have to build a jig to hold the 1.5 mm wide and 0.25 mm thick strips of styrene to be used for planking while trying to taper them.
 
@BANYAN Most people here, of course, would use wood, but at 1/160 scale, covering-up all the wood-grain is a lot of work. It would be completely out of scale. Also, for me it is difficult to obtain and mill hardwood, such as boxwood. Living in a city apartment imposes certain restrictions. As the whole model will be painted, as ships of that time usually were, it doesn't really matter what is underneath. Acrylic glass (particularly the cast variety of PLEXIGLAS®) is an excellent material for machining and can hold very sharp edges, which is needed at this small scale. I still have a good stock, as my father used to work for a subsidiary of the manufacturers of PLEXIGLAS and we got the stuff for little money back then.

Just to keep the ball rolling
 
It is not that nothing happened in the background in spite of various travels and work to earn money … 
Much time was spent interpreting the original drawings and to prepare drawings for the actual building process. Luckily the spacing of the frames in the body-plan was such that it equalled the spacing of three frames of the prototype and every third frame would have been elongated to serve as bulwark stanchion. This saved a lot of real lofting, as the bulkheads just had to be copied and the missing details and reference lines needed to be added.
However, cant-frames were not drawn and had to be lofted from the lines- and body-plans. The same for the longitudinal frames that support the transom and the gilling.
As this will be a waterline model, the hull will be constructed on a base-plate. The base-plate will be 4 mm Plexiglas into which 1 mm deep slots for the bulkheads and the stem- and sternpost pieces.  

The size of the drawing 190 mm wide and 145 mm high
 
The drawings will be stuck to 1 mm acrylic glass and sawn out.
 
To be continued