ccoyle

I plan to build a 1:12 model of a 28 foot yacht. This design has never been built, but is a variant of a 24 foot yacht design usually called ‘a Ranger’ (see Wooden Boat magazine issue 227). The first of the type was called Ranger, launched in 1933. They are popular & loved because the design fits the purpose so well: day use on Sydney Harbour, with short coastal trips & overnighting capacity. The design was adapted by the designer to a 32’ ocean-going variant, & also a 28’ ocean-going variant. The 28 footer came 8th on IRC handicap in the 2006 Sydney Hobart Race (see youtube video of her in 2012 in 30-35 knots http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dd9LqrDP510). The design I will build is slimmer & with less buoyancy in the bow than the ocean-going 28 footer.
 
The ‘Ranger’ yachts are generally 24 foot (7.3m) waterline & on deck, with bowsprit, gaff rig & a raised deck. They are very beamy at around 9’6” (2.9m), or a beam/length proportion of about 40%. This version is 28’ & 9’6” beam, so it’s basically stretched, not scaled up.
 
This design is of interest generally because: the smaller ones are admired & loved, at least locally; this 28’ design has never been built; the designer (Cliff Gale) was a self-taught boat designer & in his day was considered one of Sydney’s best yachtsman. But it’s also personal: I’m lucky enough to have one of the 24 footers. I love the design, that they can be so beamy yet look good & sail so well, & they are a terrific motor boat as well. They sail well in 5 knots & can also sail unreefed in 40 knots.
 
These photos show well the nuggety shape:
 

 

 
This is the existing ocean going 28 footer, she's the most similar boat to the design I'm building, but much fuller. It's a big little boat:
 

 

 

 
Cliff Gale was a self-taught designer, who learned by towing carved models behind a dinghy. Ranger was designed by carving a bread & butter half model, which was taken apart & measured. Cliff’s son Bill recently wrote this about his father:
 
"Cliff Gale left school in 1898 aged twelve, & knew arithmetic but had insufficient mathematics to be useful in boat design. As a boy he lived at Woolwich & the family owned a rowing skiff for transport & pleasure. From thirteen to nineteen he made in excess of one hundred rough sailing models, each one progressively different, which he tested from the skiff. At nineteen he felt he had completed his design self-education.”
 
I would like to build the model plank on ribs, & possibly make it RC sailing - although plain sailing is an alternative as well. But I’ll leave that alternative open until I get to that point, I will also be happy if a nice display model is the result.
 
The issue that needs to be resolved is actually what to build... I do have the original drawings as done by a naval architect to Cliff’s design, but having looked carefully at them, they do not relate accurately between the different drawings. The history of the Ranger design makes this even worse: for Ranger herself we have Cliff’s original half model, we have the original drawings done from the half model, & we have lines drawing of Ranger meticulously done by 2 local shipwrights … & they don’t match up.
 
If you compare station 4 on the drawings below, the design drawing shows more tumblehome, & much less buoyancy - the volume below the waterline was increased while being built, to increase her load-carrying capacity:
 

 

 
Bill Gale tells me that his father went to the boatbuilder often to supervise the construction, & that he made a number of modifications to the lines while she was being built.
 
For the model, I will have to adapt the lines drawing, trying to do it in a similar way that the lines drawing of Ranger was adapted to the built design. Because of the uncertainty, the model building method needs to help resolve thoughtfully these differences between the various possible shapes, & not be a way of getting caught up in plotting lines on a screen that fit but might be going away from the design. Initially I spent some hours trying to resolve a set of lines that is consistent, as they do not quite match up on the original drawing. My CAD skills are fair but you can’t really see a subtle 3D curved object in a drawing, so making changes to a curve on screen seems risky in this case. So I’ve concluded that I must see the shape in the flesh, & so carve the solid hull shape, based on a set of lines I adapted from the original lines drawing. The shape will be fair, so then I know the molds will work. If the method is too difficult I will be reluctant to make corrections, so it needs to be fairly simple & easy to make & to change.
 
In putting this up early, I hope to benefit from the knowledge & experience of this forum. So I’ve done some sketches below that show the idea for my construction method, & hope that I can get some constructive criticism & help to iron out any issues now. In a few weeks I’ll get back to the computer & finalise the lines drawings; but for now I’ll describe the idea for the building method - as I see it now.
 
1
Work up a set of lines in CAD, from the original drawings.
 
2
Cut plywood molds from the station lines.
 
20141103145702436.pdf
 
3
Assemble the molds with solid balsa blocking between them, the balsa blocking is to be removable. Possibly brass rods inserted at angles through the balsa & molds.
 
20141103145708075.pdf
 
20141103145720688.pdf
 
4
Carve the hull shape out of the solid, using the molds as indicators. If I need to add to the molds, glue strips of timber on the mold edges.
 
5
Make the stem, forefoot, keelson, keel, transom etc, to sit neatly over the hull shape.
 
20141103145726052.pdf
 
6
Remove some of the solid blocking, where the ribs can sit directly on the molds; leave the blocking where the ribs want to lie at angles, I’ll probably need to put in temporary spacers to help hold the model together. By keeping blocking in the bow area, the ribs can follow their natural line rather be pushed into being straight across the hull. It's not so bad for the aft 2/3s of the hull shape, I think they'll be able to sit on the plywood ribs.
 
7
Cut the rabbet, rib the hull.
 
8
Plank the hull.
 
9
Remove molds & remaining blocking, progressively putting in some deck beams as it goes.
 
10
Have a cup of tea
 
thanks for reading this, I hope to learn a bit more before starting, & maybe revise the method if needed
 
MP

No work of art has 100% universal appeal.  My wife can't understand what I find so funny about Monty Python -- go figure.

More work done on the stanchions and a new cut in the bulwark for the gangway. That was fun! Taking my time and enjoying listening to music at the same time.... 
~john
 

Have been playing with the brass window frames. My lovely wife is going to glaze them with Perspex supplied.1 done so far- will do all 5 before gluing- Perspex goes in from behind and buts to brass frame cross with some canopy glue

Afternoon all,
 
Construction has commenced!!!!!
 
First things first, I checked the kit against the register of parts and all were present and accounted for! Next I checked the quality of the parts, and Oh My Word, the quality was outstanding! No fraying of edges on any of the stripped materials, all lines were straight and true, and the castings for the carronades and mortor were execptional, the fact they've cast the evelation bottle screws on the carronades with a thread was just insane!! I squealed like a little girl when I saw those (my girlfriend thought I had cut myself already)! As you can imagine, I was very impressed, and compared to Matura/Sergal President kit, this was a shear delight! I am one very happy shipwright!
 

 
I then proceeded to cut out all the false keel items, clean them up, dry it, and test my improvised set square (balsa block & 90 degree angle bracket glued together), and enough roughly shaped balsa blocks to build up the bow and stern bulkheads. Unfortunately, I could not get Bulkhead no. 2 completely staright as I put the balsa packer in the wrong way round (d'oh)! So I will have to rasp the proud edge down slightly more than the others, but that is no problem.
 

 
As I superglued each bulkhead in place to start off with, I later ran a bead of PVA glue along each join to help reinforce the interface between False Keel and Bulkheads.
 
Whilst the PVA was drying, I turned my attention to the keel. I cleaned the gash material off from the keel, and and cut out the stern post and the stem. I used a permanent marker to imitate calking in between the joints, but I realised this is probably a fruitless effort, as I'll be painting the under water profile white. Oh well!
 

 
Lastly, I decided to dry fit the keel and false deck to check for overall "square-ness" of the ship so far. This proved to show me that Bulkhead 2 was not too much of an issue, and a slight trimming to the false deck, and it fitted perfectly!
 

 
Tonight, first priority will be moving all of my President bits and bobs to another tool box so I can use the dividers to partition off the Convulsion part, then I will be sanding down the balsa blocks and bulk heads to the required shear, and if the "boss" lets me, I might start running a few planks. Fingers crossed!
 
Cheers,
Jonny

UPDATED JULY, 2024
So what exactly is a “card model”?  A card model, or paper model, is simply a model made primarily out of paper.  Many modelers are surprised to learn that a ship model can be made from humble paper, but paper as a modeling medium has a long history.  During World War II, paper was one of the few resources not heavily regulated due to the war effort. As a result, paper models enjoyed a brief peak in popularity, even in America.  After the war, plastic model kits began to take over the market. Paper model kits eventually become scarce, except in the former East Bloc countries.  Communism didn't offer much as a system of government, but it did preserve card modeling as an art form, because plastic models were prohibitively expensive.  When the Cold War thawed, commerce started flowing between East and West, including CAD technology.  Our card modeling friends in Eastern Europe were quick to apply computer-aided drafting to the art of designing card models. As a result, an ever-increasing number of card models became available with better artwork, more detail, and tighter fit tolerances.  For the most part, the hobby is still dominated by designers and publishers from the East. Poland, in particular, is home to some of the preeminent publishing houses, including GPM, Modelik, JSC, Orlik, Maly Modelarz, and Kartonowy Arsenal.  Germany is another leading producer of card models, with HMV, Moewe-Verlag, and J. F. Schreiber being some of the better-known publishers.
 
Paper has a number of selling points as a modeling medium. Chief among these is that card kits are relatively cheap.  The fact that most paper kits can still be purchased for under $20 US, even in 2024, makes them attractive candidates for modelers with small budgets.  Paper Shipwright of the UK, for example, offer 44 ship designs in their catalog, none of which has a price tag greater than US$16.  Of course, just as for wood or plastic kits, after-market additions can push the price of a card model project up considerably. But even with the cost of laser-cut or photo-etched details thrown in, a card model costing over US$100 is rare.  In addition to being inexpensive, paper is versatile. With careful manipulation it can be molded into almost any three-dimensional shape.  A third advantage of card models is that they are almost always pre-colored. The color of the finished model is printed right on the paper.  Modern graphic design programs allow designers to produce card model kits with exceptionally realistic weathering. Painting or coloring of a card model is usually limited to coloring the edges of cut parts to hide seams.  Finally, card models require very few tools to get started. Most people already have the basic cutting and gluing supplies in their house somewhere.
 
One of the most compelling reasons to try card modeling is the wow factor. A card model kit that starts as a set of flat, printed sheets can be transformed into a stunning finished model.  There is a learning curve, of course, but hearing someone say, “I can’t believe that’s made out of paper!” upon viewing your finished card model never gets old.
 
An excellent one-stop site to see a variety of completed card models is the gallery at kartonowki.pl. Enjoy!
 
Continue to Part II: Start for FREE!

Winter is approaching, this means model ship building season is upon us (or at least me)!
I have been thinking whether I should pursue building my Hesper (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/723-hesper-by-frenchguy-pilot-schooner-scale-148/?hl=hesper ), or put her on the back burner and start something else. Hesper is a beautiful model, but it’s a scratch build model, and despite fantastic plans from Erik Ronnberg, this model has already tested my limits with scratch building. So Hesper will stay on the shelf at least until next year.
 
There are two other models from kits that have been on my radar for some time: the America Yacht from BlueJacket, and the Benjamin W. Latham from Model Shipways. Both are 1:48 model, the first one is POF, the second is POB
 
I finally decided to go with Benjamin Latham for the following reasons:
1-      I love New England Schooners
2-      The America kit from BlueJacket is fairly expensive (although I found their kits to be of better quality overall that Model shipways)
3-      There are already several logs of folks here building this model - and I will shamelessly steal any good idea I come across J
4-      There is solid information about New England schooners  in Chapelle’s schooner bible
5-      I got  a 40% coupon discount for MS
6-      I love New England Schooners
 
There is plenty of documentation and pictures on her. I also saw a beautiful model of this schooner at the Cape Ann Museum in Gloucester, MA http://www.capeannmuseum.org/collections/objects/schooner-benjamin-w-latham/
So here we are, I just received the box, and inventoried the content. The kit was backordered, but with the discount, it was well worth the wait.  I had printed the manual some years ago, and went through it a few times before (BlueJacket, take note: offering a free download of the manual from your website would be a great idea). The plan sheets are superbly detailed and I also like the down to earth approach of Ben Lanksford when it comes to instructions.
 
Let the building begin!

First - thanks to all who have commented recently - I haven't been AWOL, just busy
 
So, for a current update - I've been working on the modification of the center 40mm tubs between the stacks and have the basic mods in place. This area is now the Mk. 56 FC Director Platform. As with the rest of the model, it is in place but not adhered at this point. Work to be done on the other 40mm tubs (4) ahead and abaft of this platform. They will become Zuni Rocket Launcher tubs (to be built) and will require minor modifications. As a comparision to the orig. configuration, look at a couple of the photos from earlier posts of this area.

 
I hope to have another photo from the front of the platform later - the one I took last night was out of focus. The Mk. 56 directors are as yet to be built - I need 6 of these, so I am planning on making a master and molding the other 5 - that will be a project in itself. The remaining hole in the decking is for location of the antenna post (each side) to which antenna wires are turnbuckled and attach to the foremast yard.
 
I'm still doing research on the Zuni Launchers so those are not started yet. Photos that I have access to are not close up and details are sparce.
 
Len - do you recall the interior of the nav. bridge? I may have asked before - I was thinking it was pea green on the bulkheads, but perhaps simply haze gray. If you've any ideas, let me know.
 
Hank

Hi Grant, I knew someone would say that but it really did have issues. LOL
 
Hi Sam, I think you may be correct.  I will have to see what I can do in the future.
 
Hi Brian, I will have by the time I finish it.
 
 
Okay it’s been awhile since my last post as time has been tight and when I did have time just didn’t want to touch it.
 
Firstly a couple of realisations; I really liked the lower hull colour and feel of the paper skins.  They had a richness about them (as can be seen in the post above) so disappointed that I will have to paint them.  I mentioned previously how I didn’t like the double thickness of the overlapping skins.  Actually once they were edge coloured and on I didn’t mind them at all.
 
In an ideal world I would have been very happy to skin up the hull as the kit required, oh well hopefully next one turns out better.
 
I decided to use some plasterboard tape joint compound instead of auto-body filler.  Reasoning being it is made for gripping to the paper surface of plasterboard and can be sanded to a nice feathered edge.  I was worried auto-body filler would dry to a hard tough finish which would be difficult to sand down without going through the surrounding paper.
 
One problem with the tape jointing compound is it must have a high moisture content which doesn’t matter on rigid plaster board but did make some of the skins not supported underneath buckle up a bit but seemed to dry out okay.  I believe there is a very fine body filler for scratches called stopping or butter so will try that in future.
 
Once it was all dried and sanded, I went over and brushed on a coat of Caldercrafts Admiralty Flat Matt Varnish to seal the paper surface for spraying.
 
Photos below show the extent of filling. Even after a second skim coat there was still a few little bits could be improved on but will get some paint on it first to see how it looks and will fill again if really needed.


 
 
The centre prop housing gave me heaps of problems as it wasn’t clear (to me anyway) how it was supposed to be folded and glued so needed a fair bit of filler to build up the shape.

 
 
I have already bought a couple of spray cans of Tamiya’s TS33 Dull Red that I have seen used on another web site so once I finish the prop supports will give that a go.
 
Cheers
Slog

View of the interior of the Confederate submersible H. L. Hunley, as she appeared on her final mission in February 1864 near Charleston, South Carolina. Modeled in Rhino, based on plans by Michael Crisafulli and illustration concept by Dan Dowdey.
 

Hi all. I've done a little bit more work on Mystic's tiny hull. The work includes adding the internal ribs. On the outside of the hull, I've added additional planks at the bow and shaped them into the a nice flare. The hull's certainly a lot more shapely now. Lastly, I've added the rubbing strakes onto the external hull above the waterline and a bilge stringer under the waterline.
 
Still a lot more work to go, but, it should be lots of fun.
 
All the best.

Wow, you really went through the wringer!  I'm glad to hear you are recovering.  Any time a model gets damaged, or parts get lost, or whatever the nature of the mishap, it is a good idea to sit back and take stock.  Soon enough you'll know for yourself whether the project can move forward.  I recently started a card airplane model - got as far as completing the left wing.  The wing did not turn out well enough for my personal standards.  After staring at it for about two weeks, I realized I would never be happy with the wing in its current state, and I didn't have the will to re-do it, especially since I wasn't super-enthused about the model in the first place.  So, that model's off to the side and my work space is awaiting the next project.  All that to say, go for the continued build if you like, but don't feel compelled to finish it just for the sake of finishing.  It's a hobby - build what moves you!

Congratulations on finishing your project!  She is a real looker, and I love the side-by-side photos with Badger.
 
Cheers!

OK, now for the main event
 
. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
So there we go, all done. I hope those who followed enjoyed the journey and I thank you again for your help and support.
 
See you all in the next log I hope, that will be opened on Saturday. For those that don't already know it's the 1/48 scale Bomb Vessel Granado cross section. This is a scratch build so I'm venturing into dark and unknown side of this hobby, not on my own I might add, Grant and Jack Panzeca will be taking the journey with me, should be fun.
 
So for now I'll say adios amigo's, see you soon.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

As promised gents here is my latest update.
 
SHE IS FINISHED, well to be truthful she has been for the last two weeks but I have been waiting for the display case to arrive, no luck yet so I'll post without the case and base.
 
I want to thank everybody who has followed this build and those who pressed the like button, to get 75,500+ hits has really taken me back and I thank you all for the support, help comments and advice, there has been plenty along the way and it's all been good.
 
This will be last big build for a couple of reasons, the first being space, I don't have enough space at home to display them properly, the museum has taken the smaller ships but it still leaves me with a problem, secondly is the repetitive work that these big ships require, there's a huge amount of planking, plating, gun making and gun rigging and so it goes on, so from now on it's only small stuff.
 
Hopefully this will be a one time only event, but I have a few shots of my first build, HM Brig Badger alongside Agamemnon, both are 1/64 scale and the difference is really surprising. Badger took me 4 months from start to finish and the Aggy has taken 19 1/2 months.
 
Anyway enough talk, lets see the pics, first up the two together.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I'm going to close this post and I'll open another with just the Agamemnon, I hope you enjoy these shots.
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

C.S.S. Richmond was one of the earliest Confederate ironclads, having been laid down at the Gosport Navy Yard at Norfolk, Virginia, in March 1862, immediately after the completion of the famous C.S.S. Virginia (ex-Merrimack). Richmond was designed by John Luke Porter, who would go on to serve as the Chief Naval Constructor for the Confederacy, but completed under supervision of Chief Carpenter James Meads. Richmond embodied many of the basic design elements that be used, again and again, in other casemate ironclads built across the South in the following three years.

When Union forces were on the verge of taking the Gosport Navy Yard, Richmond was hurriedly launched and towed up the James River, where she was completed at Richmond. Finally commissioned in July 1862, the ironclad served as a core element of the Confederate capital’s James River Squadron for the remainder of the war. Richmond, along with the other ironclads in the James, was destroyed to prevent her capture with the fall of her namesake city at the beginning of April 1865.

This model is based on plans of the ironclad by David Meagher, published in John M. Coski’s book, Capital Navy: The Men, Ships and Operations of the James River Squadron, with modifications based on a profile of the ship by John W. Wallis, particularly regarding the position of the ship’s funnel and pilot house. Hull lines are adapted from William E. Geoghagen’s plans for a later Porter design for an ironclad at Wilmington, that seems to have had an identical midship cross-section.

Hi Chris,
 
Funny you should mention David Okamura's models. Two modeler's I know both bought card models at the SMA's Queen Mary event way back after seeing his models on display. I've never seen his models myself, but I understand they are really nicely done.
 
Well, on the Alert, things slow down a bit as I work more on cutting small parts. The cheeks of the gun carriages take a lot of cuts to make. There are only 12 guns on this model – not so bad. I also cut the timberheads. These are really small, but I think I shaped them okay.
 
 
All these parts are listed as 1mm thick. I've found that I don't really like using 0.5mm or 1mm cardboard as it's kind of soft, so I like to use 3M spray adhesive to laminate sheets of printer paper. This seems to cut cleaner than cardboard. The paper I use is pretty thick, so two sheets of printer paper, plus the kit part sheet comes out to 0.5mm.

 
 
 
The kit parts for the gun carriage cheeks are lined up on the kit sheets very nicely, allowing me to glue up several parts at one time.

 
 
 
The parts show cut, yet to be cleaned up.

 
 
 
The cleaned up, painted parts. 

 
 
Clare

Classic motor yachts and cruisers are very classy vessels.  There should be more models of them!

Hi everyone. I've decided to build a micro-scale motor cruiser at 1:278 scale because these ships ooze olde- world charm. Just looking at these types of ships evoke images of wealthy folks cruising in luxury from a bygone era. My ship will be loosely based on the ship pictured in the plans below. I'll make my own version using my own ideas.
 
The hull consists of wooden planks formed over a waxed wooden plug. The interior will be fully detailed, as is the norm in all my models, eg Ingomar ( see my other build log).
 
Anyhow, hope you enjoy the photos and will join me on this boat's journey.

Most paper modelers are converts from some other medium, I find.  I was wooed to the Dark Side by David Okamura's models shown at meetings of the Ship Modeler's Association down in SoCal.  There are some world-class wood scratch-builders in that club, but there is something just so darn intriguing about seeing those paper wonders in the mix.  I still have HMS Fly waiting for my attention, but paper projects seem to be taking up all my modeling time these days.  I think you'll be proven not far wrong about some more card kits hitting the ways based on your NRG exhibit - a good thing, in my view!
 
Cheers!

Most paper modelers are converts from some other medium, I find.  I was wooed to the Dark Side by David Okamura's models shown at meetings of the Ship Modeler's Association down in SoCal.  There are some world-class wood scratch-builders in that club, but there is something just so darn intriguing about seeing those paper wonders in the mix.  I still have HMS Fly waiting for my attention, but paper projects seem to be taking up all my modeling time these days.  I think you'll be proven not far wrong about some more card kits hitting the ways based on your NRG exhibit - a good thing, in my view!
 
Cheers!

Using off-the-shelf fittings is, of course, a cost saving measure for the manufacturer.  I know this has been a particular point of contention between Chris Watton an Amati; Chris usually pushes for as much vessel-specific fidelity as he can for his designs, but Amati hold the purse strings, so there are limits.  Perhaps it was stated earlier, but kit builders are actually living in a Golden Era of kit manufacturing - there's a new crop of designers (Chris, Chuck, et al) with a passion for historically accurate, true-to-scale products, and Internet resources (like this forum) make it relatively easy to weed out bad designs for those interested in avoiding them.
 
Cheers!

Using off-the-shelf fittings is, of course, a cost saving measure for the manufacturer.  I know this has been a particular point of contention between Chris Watton an Amati; Chris usually pushes for as much vessel-specific fidelity as he can for his designs, but Amati hold the purse strings, so there are limits.  Perhaps it was stated earlier, but kit builders are actually living in a Golden Era of kit manufacturing - there's a new crop of designers (Chris, Chuck, et al) with a passion for historically accurate, true-to-scale products, and Internet resources (like this forum) make it relatively easy to weed out bad designs for those interested in avoiding them.
 
Cheers!

I'm afraid that if i don't correct the counter, i'll always will look at the model for the place where i went wrong.
 
And since there's not a lot of work, I'll be rebuilding the stern.
 
I put the saw into my counter and transom. 

 
I removed the excess of wood still glued on.

 
I decided to remodel the stern with the use of MDF.
 

 
I used the dremel to shape the stern according to plan. 
Checking with paper templates.
 

 
Then i glued a new transon out of ply.
 

 
And sanded flush.
 

 
Afterwards replanked the whole stern.
 

Hi all,

When I went looking for a new ship to build, I got a picture from my grandfather who looked through the window of a ship's bridge in his younger years. Unfortunately my grandfather deceased at a very young age. It seemed beautiful to build a ship where he sailed on. An uncle of mine then indicated they would like to have a model of the 49 KW, Antje in 1959. My grandfather has been a fisherman on this ship and my uncle went with him several times as a kid. I have nothing promised to him but I started to look for information.





First, I came across a book with the following information to

N.V. Viss. Me. Kennemerland
Dageraad Woubrugge Year 1959
43,96 x 7:34 x 3.54 Capacity 291 Brt

07.18.1959 trial and transfer
1969 made suitable for beam trawling
1972 TX 46 Antje eig. P v.d. Vis
Sold in 1974 to Argentina is San Lucas



Unfortunately, there was further found little information on hand to be so I'm on several facebook pages and forums calls going to do if someone had more information, pictures or drawings. Immediately there were people who wanted to help me. They often had not the requested information but they knew people who had sailed on the ship. Unfortunately, many people already deceased but I managed to find a few people out after a lot of phone calls and mail, and some also had pictures.
 


At the wharf The Dageraad


During the trial


I finally managed to get to 32 original photographs of the KW 49 and I am very happy with it. Luckily I met a man who had sailed on the VL 16, a ship that was similar to the KW 49 He had a lot of pictures for me and even in color.

The VL 16]

The TX46 (formerly KW 49)