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russ

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Everything posted by russ

  1. russ
    Brian: Very nicely done. Everything looks very neat and shipshape to my eye. Russ
  2. russ
    Brian: The cannon rigging looks very good. Nice work. The smaller seizing thread is a good choice. In diameter, a little smaller will usually be good for the scale effect. Russ
  3. russ
    Brian: That is exactly correct. A few dowels might do well, but then you will run into a batch of bad ones and you might never know until it is too late. So long as the square stock is straight grained, it will do well. The problem with dowels is that they are cut with little or no thought as to the grain direction. Russ
  4. russ
    Brian: Square stock is always the way to go on spar making. Store bought dowels can have grain running all over the place and they could easily warp over time. Square stock is much less likely to warp. Good work. Russ
  5. russ
    Brian: The wheel looks good. The casting comes out nicely once painted. Russ
  6. russ
    Brian: The length I quoted was a standard formula. I did not know that the space on your model was that tight. It may be that in such a small craft, they would sponge and reload, from outboard, through the gun port. That was not uncommon, especially in small vessels where space was at a premium. Russ
  7. russ
    Brian: The breeching rope looks about the right length. It should be about three times the barrel length. Russ
  8. russ
    John: Good work. That deck is not going anywhere. Russ
  9. russ
    John: I just wrap the wire around the pins in the jig, forming the eyes at either end. Then I clip the excess wire off and solder the cut ends back onto the wire, thus creating the eyes. The eyes are not separate pieces, they are simply formed right on the end of the wire. Russ
  10. russ
    John: I make shackles much the same way using a jig to form the eyes so that each shackle has the same distance between the eyes. I use brass wire instead of rod. Russ
  11. russ
    Kenneth: I like the variation between deck planks. A deck will have newer planks alongside older planks. That is actually quite natural, especially on a privateer. Congrats to your Eagle scout. Russ
  12. russ
    Brian: The soldered joints look good. File them up a bit if you want to remove the discoloration. Nice work. Russ
  13. russ
    Kenneth: It was a fun day. We got to see some great boats and talk with some really nice people. Even managed to plank a model skiff hull as well. Not a bad way to spend the day. You are far too kind about the schooner, but I appreciate it. Russ
  14. russ
    John: Nice work as always. That deck will look great when it is all finished. Will you scrape it or sand it after it is complete? Russ
  15. russ
    That is a fine looking model. Excellent work and congratulations. Russ
  16. russ
    Rick: That is a binnacle cabinet. It is where the compass is kept. Russ
  17. russ
    Looks good to my eye. Great work. Russ
  18. russ
    Mary: A couple of things to think about with stains. First of all, if you have any glue dried on the surface of the wood, that will not accept any kind of finish. The areas of dried glue will be visible after you stain or clear coat. A good sanding will take care of most of these problem areas, but beware. Second, basswood is rather soft and some areas of the wood will accept the stain or finish differently than other areas. It can result in an uneven, blotchy result. I use a pre stain conditioner made by Minwax before apply the stain. You can apply the pre stain conditioner and then the stain about 20 minutes afterwards. The conditioner will penetrate the wood, helping the wood absorb the stain or finish more evenly, making for a much better result. Your work looks good so far. Russ
  19. russ
    The seats look very good. I think you are doing an excellent job. As for paint, why not do a clear coat and show off the different woods? Your choice. Russ
  20. russ
    John: That looks very good so far. Are you running a pencil along the edge to indicate the seams? Russ
  21. russ
    It looks very good. The "wave cut" you describe is simply that both ends were tapered down to a smaller width than the center of the plank. Tapering planks is common in boats. Russ
  22. russ
    The fit looks good. The heights at both ends are a tad more important than elsewhere, but it is good that it all fits well. The great thing about wood is that you can trim, sand, and fit as needed. In fact, it is part of the process to be expected. Nice work. Russ
  23. russ
    It is looking good. Everything looks like it is lined up well. Nice work. Russ
  24. russ
    Herbert: This was a restoration of an old model. Some elements of the hull were very good, others rather crude. The deck may have some crown or round up in it, but not much and it does have some sheer n it. I would not look at the deck of a model like this and try to draw any conclusions about real ships. In real schooners, all of them had a crown or a round up to the deck from side to side. That is a given and always goes without saying. All decks have some amount of fore and aft curve or sheer. The amount of round up and sheer can vary from deck to deck. Russ
  25. russ
    The stem looks good. You may find that you will have to make some adjustments when installing the side planks, but that is fairly normal. Russ

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