russ

I am not sure what the exact problem is, but I checked the instruction manual and the rigging plans. The lower yards are fitted with lifts, trusses, and slings. This is covered in the manual on pages 34-35.

Russ

The seizings on the main shrouds are a great improvement. Good work.

Russ

Just keep at it. I am sure it will look great when you get it completed. I always enjoy the process of building more than the finished model.

Russ

I have some Swann Morton blades and they are very good. I reckon the number 11 blade will do the trick, but I do not use different blades for cutting straights or curves. I just use one blade for all of it. I think it is akin to a number 11. They come in small boxes with enough blades to keep you cutting for years. That is what I would recommend. Be careful though. These blades will hurt you if you do not pay attention.

When cutting planks, I begin with a first shallow pass over the line I am cutting and then make successive deeper passes until I cut through. I always leave a little meat on the piece and then sand it down afterwards.

Russ

I used a scalpel blade and an emory board when I planked my schooner model.

Russ

If you follow the Syren instructions, I think you will be fine.

You can check out my cross section model and look at the way I did the seizings. They are not the neatest, but they are correct for scale and number.

Russ

Yes, for the shrouds three small seizings with much smaller thread. However, the lanyards wrapped around the shrouds caught my eye.

Russ

Al:

Edge bending is fine where you can do it. In some cases, edge bending is simply not possible, especially if the hull as a greater than normal amount of sheer (fore and aft curvature).

A lot depends on your personal goals and experience. I have planked hulls, spiling and tapering every plank. It was great fun and I received a good deal of personal satisfaction from it. I did not necessarily need to spile every plank, but once I learned how to do it, I never wanted to do it any other way.

Russ

The thinner lanyards look much better. One thing though. You have too much line wrapped around the shrouds. Other than that, it looks very good.

Russ

Spiling is nothing more than matching the curve of the upper edge of the plank to the curve of the lower edge of the plank it will lay against. Once you match that curve, cut the curve into the plank. Now, you need to taper (reduce the width) of the plank on the its lower edge so that it will fit in the space allotted for it on the frames.

Spiling is transferring the curve to the upper edge of the plank. Tapering is reducing the width of the plank along its lower edge to fit it on the hull.

Russ

Al:

The top edge of the plank is spiled to match the curve of the plank above it and the bottom edge is tapered so it will fit in the space for it on the frames. Other than that, I think you have it correct. You are making one plank to take the place of two where the space narrows too much to have two planks.

In Underhill's Plank on Frame Models volume I, there is a good description with illustrations of both stealers and drop planks.

Russ

The masts and deck furniture look great. Well done.

Russ

The tensions on the shrouds looks very good. The idea is to get a tensioned look to the shrouds and lanyards without actually having a lot of tension. You did well. Great work.

Russ

Brian:

The chainplates would normally go under the rub rail, but that is not an absolute statement. There will always be variations, but it would make far more sense for them to go under the rub rail rather than be formed over the top of it.

Russ

The dredge frames look good. When soldering stuff like this, I always try to over bend the pieces so I can spring them back and they hold against each other. That provides the contact for hard soldering, provided of course, the mating areas are flat to each other. Yours came out quite well. Nice job on that and the paint job.

Russ

This boat has very nice lines. Very attractive. You have done a great job so far.

Your bitts look good. I think that is a viable solution.

On the anchors, our local schooners slung the flukes over the rail and lashed them to a cleat on the inside of the bulwarks. On these small working vessels, they used what they had and made it work.

One thing I can point out that could be improved, but it is too late to deal with it on this model. Your chainplates should lay flat and the rub rail should go over them. Your chainplates sit over the rubrail. I made this same mistake on a past model. As I said, it cannot be corrected now, but it is important to note for the future. It does not really detract from the model's appearance. Just one of those little things.

Russ

Brian:

If you use a slightly larger bit and a light hand to drill them out, you should be able to do it. However, if they are already placed in tight spots on deck, I think that might be a problem. The CA method you describe is used quite a bit. I think you are on the right track.

Russ

Have you opened up the holes in the blocks a bit? That and the CA trick should do the job.

Russ

That looks very good. Lots of nice detail adds to realism of the piece. Good work.

Russ

The shrouds look very good. Great work.

Russ

Perpendicular is correct.

Russ

Also, would they have countersunk the nails and capped it with a wood plug? The plugs would be round if they used them.

Russ

The Virginia pilot boats did not have any standing rigging. Later, when fitted for other services, particularly naval service or in case of an ocean voyage, they set up stays and shrouds. But for pilot service, no standing rigging.

Russ

That is a clever method for making the pumps. Nice work.

Russ

Elia:

Those vertical bulkheads on deck are a curious feature. I have not seen that sort of thing before. What is their purpose?

Russ