russ

The deck looks good. I have seen plans of the Ranger and it had this very cluttered looks about the deck. Yours looks about right to my eye.

Russ

Excellent start. Look forward to seeing more.

Russ

John:

It looks great. There is nothing quite like a framed hull. The lines of hull are beautiful. I especially like the overhead photo with the frames nicely spaced and faired.

Russ

Joe:

I promise I never went anywhere. Just got really busy.

There are always challenges to find a way to make something in a given scale. That is one of the things I love about model building.

Russ

Very nice work. The details are excellent. The large scale makes it easier to create details. These small boats in larger scales are always fun to build.

Russ

Robert:

Great work. No one cares what the frame work looks like since it all get planked. The main thing is to get it to a point where you can plank it.

One thing I see and I am sure you see it too. The aftermost filler blocks appear a bit too full yet. The closer you get to the outboard edge of the bulkhead, the more it needs it. Just a little more fairing there and it will be fine.

Russ

It looks neatly done. Good job. I do think you could have gone thicker with that particular application, but it looks good so I would not change anything. Just as soon as you go thicker, you will run into scale issues. Even if it not too thick, the eye will probably fuss about it. The eye always catches things that are too large for scale.

Russ

I use acrylics and I generally apply very thin coats, usually about 6-10, to get the finish I want. Others use more or less. I have not used MS paints, but I am sure others here will know what to use to thin them.

Russ

Here is a hint on how the battens might ought to run. This is the best I can do given the photograph angle etc.

Russ

planking runs.pdf

Adam:

I was frustrated for a while not because the parts are small (and they are), but because I had not figured a way to engineer them properly. I think I have that worked out now and it is a matter making some time in the shop to get them completed. Once you know how to make them, the rest tends to get a bit easier.

Russ

Gerty:

Thanks. I will be glad when I get the other side completed.

Russ

For seizing, that .008 line sounds about right. You could go up to .010, but not much thicker. For scale accuracy, the slightly smaller line would look better. The seizings ought not to be bulky looking.

The plans were probably detailed to show what was actually needed and the kit is supplied with the closest line they had in stock.

Russ

Frank:

Thanks for dropping by.

Russ

Curtis:

That is a good plan to rig the guns before setting the deck furniture. That should help things along greatly.

The deck furniture looks good so far.

Russ

Thanks. I am hoping to get some time on her soon. I have to finish another paying project and then I can get back to this one.

Russ

The planking looks good.

I think that following the waterline would look better and you would still have some of that planking showing.

Russ

In this case, a touch of CA on the end of the line before you cut it will prevent the fraying. Just coat the area where you want to cut, let it set, and then cut it.

Russ

Excellent work so far. That internal framing looks really good. The great thing about this model is that you get to build it almost exactly like the real boat was built.

Russ

Looks good so far. Sharp blades will cut. I always leave a little dna on my models.

Russ

That is a good solution.

You can also make the seizing out of a separate line. Form a U shaped loop against the gammoning, leaving a free end or tail dangling a bit below where the seizing will be applied. With the loop in place, wrap the long end of the line around the gammoning several times moving upward from the bottom edge of the seizing, leaving the loop exposed at the top and the short tail exposed at the bottom of seizing. When you have several turns of the seizing, cut the long end of the line so that there is a little left over. Then feed that end into the loop. Now, tug on the end of the line at the bottom and it will pull that loop and the free end of the line beneath the seizing and it will be secured there with nothing left showing at the top. Then trim the tail flush with the bottom of the seizing and you are done. This will work anywhere where you have a seizing and you do not want to leave a cut end visible.

Practice this on some spare thread to get the hang of it.

Russ

The belaying pin color is much better. Your trestle trees look good too.

Russ

Good job. Congratulations on a great looking model.

Russ

Meredith:

Nice build so far. The overall color scheme is very attractive. This is going to be a fine model when completed.

Now, to answer your questions.

1. the belaying pins should be darker. Light/medium brownish. That will fit better in your overall color scheme. Another option is to get some brass belaying pins and use a brown metal toner. The reason I mention that is because the brass pins tend to have a better scale look because the heads are not so thick. However, the wood pins will look better and not so thick, if they are darker.

2. the breeching on the carronade should be slightly thicker, but it is not that bad an issue.

3. the tiller blocks could be a bit smaller.

All of these suggestions will help improve the overall scale presentation of the model. When using a darker color scheme, having light colored belaying pins (and a lot of them) will make them look wrong. The tiller blocks, if smaller, will place them more into the context of the model, meaning scale presentation. On fittings, when in doubt, the general rule is to err on the small side.

Russ

John:

Thanks for the kind words.

Russ

If you look through my Biloxi oyster skiff thread, I think I showed the oarlocks. They are brass strip and the post is brass wire. I drilled a hole in the strip into which the wire was hard soldered.

Russ