russ

This is more or less how I make mine. I use brass wire and brass strip. I put the wire through the hole for a bit and then add the prefluxed soldering paste and make the joint. Then I trim and file the pin down on the inside the oarlock. Drilling the hole and putting the pin through to solder it in place is a good method.

Nice work and good description.

Russ.

Good looking sails. They are difficult to do and make them look good.

Russ

I have never used a marker like that, but others have and I have heard of this sort of thing happening. I do not know want would clean it. I can tell you only what I have done on my models. I use a number 2 pencil lead rubbed against the edge of one plank and set against the edge of a plank left uncolored. I scrape the deck down afterwards with a single edge razor and I have had good results doing this.

Russ

The blackening looks good. I am not sure if the mixed materials approach gave you the finish that you achieved. I usually blacken brass, however I have done it with aluminum and copper, but never together.

Russ

Adam:

It looks good. Keep at it. Little by little she is coming together.

Russ

The rig is fairly straight forward. The block on the bulwarks has the becket in its **** end and the run is from there, through the block on the carriages, back through the bulwarks block and out. Both are hooked in the head of the block.

Russ

Sam:

The blocks seem a bit mismatched for size. I think if you went with two of the smaller blocks, it would be okay. The 4mm blocks would be okay as well.

I like the jig you have for the window framing.

Russ

John:

I echo what Keith said regarding planking. I have my own system I used on my current project and it came out quite well, just like the original was probably planked. It takes some time and few failures, but once you have done it correctly, you will never want to do it any other way.

Russ

Good work on the stain. The results are very good.

Russ

I am around. Just staying really busy.

Russ

So far so good. These boats had a good deal of metal work on them. That is the challenge with this model. Even though the bands etc are usually painted, the metal work is a central feature in these work boats.

Russ

John:

That will probably hold most of the bends, but it will likely spring back just a bit. No worries because you can use the rubber bands or some brass nails to hold it down while the glue dries. Looks good so far.

Russ

Wayne:

Solid hull models all require a good deal of carving/sanding to get the rough shaped hull down to its intended shape. Machine carving can only get so close and then modeler has to do the final shaping with templates to create that final shape. The machine carved hull is close but not exact.

Russ

The bow and the head rails look pretty good. Nice work.

Russ

Nice work. I like this kit. You are doing a really good job on it.

Russ

In double planking, the first layer is thicker for strength. The second layer is really for appearance and is usually thinner. When doing the second layer, you can follow the pattern of the first layer or not. It really depends on your preference.

Russ

Excellent work. I think the paint over the bolt heads looks very good. It puts them into a good context.

Russ

The filler blocks at the stern look much better. A test with some scrap planking will tell you a lot at this point. There should be no severe bend in that area. A mild bend for sure, but nothing that would break the plank in half.

I like installing the keel, stem, and sternpost prior to planking. I think it makes a neater job. Others will disagree, but it boils down to what you are comfortable doing.

Russ

Everyone has different things about a model build that they like. I would nail the bottom planks, but that is only because it is that sort of work that I enjoy. Others have different interest points in a build and none are right or wrong. Steve will do what works best for him and gives him the greatest joy and satisfaction. That is what this is all about. Nuff said.

Russ

Many times, a kit has too few bulkheads in the framing to really define the shape of the hull. This is one way the kit manufacturers can keep the cost down to make the kit affordable. The result is that you need that first layer of thicker planking to help strengthen the hull and better define its shape. Otherwise you end up with flat areas developing in the wide spaces between bulkheads in certain critical areas of the hull. The final planking is done to get the look of a single planked hull.

It would help to know which kit you are dealing with. Some are single planked, others double planked.

Russ

I would not glue if the mast was fairly secure while you are doing the rigging. If the hole in the deck is a bit large, allowing a good deal of movement, then glue might help you keep it steady.

Russ

The bolt heads look pretty good. Nice tip on what to use to make them.

Russ

Chuck:

No, they make a prestain conditioner that they recommend to use with their stains.

Russ

Steve:

On basswood it is a good idea to use a pre stain conditioner prior to staining. I have used it quite a bit on basswood and had good results. Otherwise the stain will go on blotchy. I use Minwax products and always have had good results.

Russ

Looks good so far. Nice work.

Russ