NMBROOK
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Everything posted by NMBROOK
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Hi Mij I also have this excellent book and intend this to be my first full navy board style build.An interesting point is that the framing detail matches exactly the builder's model and not necessarily that of proper shipbuilding practice.I look forward with great interest to following your build. Kind Regards Nigel -
Hi Matti, Just a suggestion,but I have been thinking about bending the sculptures.You could try holding them over the shaft of a soldering iron,keeping the back face towards the iron,in that way you may have a little more control and avoid deforming the detail on the outside face.I think it is a case of warm,bend,warm and bend rather than trying to shape it in one go.Cutting a wooden former to the shape may help,certainly easier and less likely to do damage to your model's paintwork. Kind Regards Nigel
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Well done,said it maybe easy Over to you Kind Regards Nigel
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Cheers TRJ Here we go,probably quite easy Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much again Edward,that's it,decision made.You should be on commission Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much Edward.I was prepared to but the larger Proxxon machine,but I now feel this would be of limited use.The machine will be mostly used for deck fittings and the odd small size housing joint.I get the impression the larger Proxxons are more geared to model engineering applications.MF70 is definitely the way to go.May I ask if you know whether there is adequate space on this machine to fit proxxon's dividing table? Kind Regards Nigel
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Thanks Mark,there is a similar miller available in the UK,but is nearly twice the price of the Proxxon.Living in the UK means the proxxon would be the ideal choice as I have almost immediate spares backup.I wanted to avoid ordering anything from overseas for this very reason. Kind Regards Nigel
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IJN Mikasa? Kind Regards Nigel
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Stunning paintwork as ever Matti I can't wait to see the decorations on the side galleries' Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Michael I recommend Caldercrafts 1mm grating kits.These are what I am using in my build to replace the oversize kit ones.They equate to 75mm square holes on your build which is correct to the original.You may have to join them together though as they only come 33mm square. Kind Regards Nigel
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CA glue extender tips question
NMBROOK replied to cdogg's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks Tom I will try that technique.Only thing is the sealed end stops the glue going off in the bottle.Maybe keep it clear while working and leave it blocked when I stop work for any length of time.As regards the tips in the pictures I can't really say as I only use Zap cyano.I did once try and fit a Zap extender onto a different makers bottle and nearly had the big spill you mention. Kind Regards Nigel -
Thanks guys.It was the MF70 I was looking at.I think in this case that biggest isn't necessarily the best.It is a bonus that it is cheap in comparison,but it's more about the right tool for what I want. Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi all, I have had formal training in the use of various machine tools when I was younger,but this was to machine larger steel and cast iron components.My difficulty is choosing an appropriate mill for model work.This is mainly down to not knowing what rpm I should be running for using milling cutters down to 1mm dia.The machine will almost solely used for wood.My thoughts are the cutters of this size is that the rpm should be very high.Looking at the Proxxon range,their smallest miller runs up to 20,000 rpm whilst the larger models only run up to 2500rpm.Am I correct in thinking that 2500 rpm is way too slow to run these small cutters and will result in cutter breakage? Any advice would be very much appreciated Kind Regards Nigel
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Glad everything went ok Eddie You take it easy buddy and don't try to do too much too soon Kind Regards Nigel
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CA glue extender tips question
NMBROOK replied to cdogg's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hi cdogg I assume you mean the Zap extenders.I use these all the time and have found that they only fit properly on Zap bottles.When I get a new bottle of glue I fit one straight away and discard the top.It is vital that the extender goes all the way down to the little collar or it will pop off.They are extremely tight which is why its not a good idea to try and fit one to a part used bottle with a scruffy top.The glue never goes off as the tip seals right at the end with remaining glue.I simple cut 2mm off the end to remove the dried glue.When the tip gets too short as you get down the widening part I replace the tip. Kind Regards Nigel -
Fabulous work Matti In the second picture you could mistake your model for the real thing.That is some very clever painting. Kind Regards Nigel
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Brilliant work Matti She looks fabulous!Those planks on the upper gallery look like they were a tight squeeze,well done mate.Nice detailed tutorial as well Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Michael I added these on my grated beak deck on Sovereign,but went for one fixing per joint due to size constraints.The members were only 1mm across. Kind regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Anja and Matti for your kind words I am giving my eyes a rest now and doing some catch up work on the portside. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thanks again Janos I am generally just using rotary tools to remove bulk material,preferring the tip of a scalpel to do the fine finish work.I have managed so far without chisels,but I do anticipate needing them when I start on the more complex carvings.I will have a bash at producing my own tools when needed.I certainly agree with you on boxwood.All the upper planking is box and one scalpel blade did one and a half gunports on average.I have had breakout on one or two pieces and now I am leaving fine raised edges oversize and thinning down as I near completion of the piece. Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much Brian It may be quite a while before I get to the stern Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Kevin Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Ferit for your kind words Kind Regards Nigel
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Thank you very much indeed Mark Kind Regards Nigel
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