NMBROOK

I thought I had more pictures of the construction but I can't find them  so these next lot of photos are of the completed stove painted, minus the condenser and drain taps for the boilers. These were painted separately and added later
 
A couple of notes on the finished stove. The rotisserie rack was carved from 0.5mm ply and the shaft was made from 0.75mm brass wire. The drive "chain" was made from cotton and the rails around the top of the stove were made from 0.25mm wire. The paint used was gunmetal grey 

Sorry for all these small posts but it is the only way I can get the photos in the order I want them
 
The next two photos show the handles on the boiler lids, the condenser and the drive wheel for the rotisserie. 

Hi All,
 
The following photos show some more progress on the stove. The first one shows the open grate at the rear of the stove and the second one is of the lids on the boilers.

Hi Nigel,
 
Thank you for your kind words.
 
Yes it does differ from the 'normal' cross section which is through the main mast. The basic kit is fairly good but I think it does need some modification to enhance it.
 
Maybe we will see you building one soon

One thing I forgot to mention in my original post.I found that cutting the treenails at 45 degrees on the ends makes it MILES easier to get in the holes as it is not to easy to see what you are doing with a blob of pva in the way
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Some pics of the completed quarter badge with window unit bonded in place
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Mike,the ebony black strake was fairly easy and bent without any soaking etc.The ebony Wales will no doubt be another story
kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Brian Yes I think I am up to date for now,number 94 I think .Definitely so much more than was just in his DVD.There is also Alex Banarov's build on the Ukranian forum of Pantelemon Victoria that is also a photographic step by step of his techniques.Some techniques only really applicable to his preferred scale of 1/36.Planishing nails flush on the scales I work to would make me cringe
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

One thing I forgot to mention in my original post.I found that cutting the treenails at 45 degrees on the ends makes it MILES easier to get in the holes as it is not to easy to see what you are doing with a blob of pva in the way
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

One thing I forgot to mention in my original post.I found that cutting the treenails at 45 degrees on the ends makes it MILES easier to get in the holes as it is not to easy to see what you are doing with a blob of pva in the way
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

One thing I forgot to mention in my original post.I found that cutting the treenails at 45 degrees on the ends makes it MILES easier to get in the holes as it is not to easy to see what you are doing with a blob of pva in the way
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Brian Yes I think I am up to date for now,number 94 I think .Definitely so much more than was just in his DVD.There is also Alex Banarov's build on the Ukranian forum of Pantelemon Victoria that is also a photographic step by step of his techniques.Some techniques only really applicable to his preferred scale of 1/36.Planishing nails flush on the scales I work to would make me cringe
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Great work Jeff This particular model has always grabbed my interest,possibly because it offers a nice 'twist' to the more usual cross section.I have spent many years avoiding anything Victory related simply because it is so popular,however my viewpoint is changing and already have the reference material so we shall see
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
Back again with another “fix”, just as I was starting to go vertical;
 
Peter (flyer) was kind enough to post a suggestion regarding too much nudity on deck ha ha….but more importantly about the missing opening just behind the figures. So decided this brilliant idea should be exercised.
 
First some (again) complaints about Corel’s kit.
 
• the weather deck is much too narrow so the doors are too close together and not enough space is available between the doors for the proper amount of figures.
 
This also caused some previous grief when building the proper size gun carriages.
 
• The deck gradations are way off as well. So the last set of doorframes stand much too high above that deck
 
===============
 
MY MISTAKES. Door hinges should mirror each other at each door, not both have left side hinges
 
Those portholes in the doors were a figment of my early imagination. The Vasa does not have these.
 
Those two rope rings on the deck don’t belong there either, but deck scaring keeps them in place. Grrrrrr
 
Thanks for dropping by..  Peter thanks or your great suggestion, very much appreciated. Big improvement !!
 
PS: I recommend looking at Peter’s beautiful log (Pegasus). His rigging work alone, along with the great photos are so nice.
 
Thanks for dropping by..And thanks Peter for your great suggestion, very much appreciated. Big improvement !!
 
Cheers
 
Michael
 
PICs just don't want to load in order w the heck??
 
 
 

Serving
 
Well made progress last weekend - lol took it all apart again today - it was pointed out to me that i had missed the serving on the lead Shroud down top the dead eye  - and where all the ropes pass the the tops - and as i delved deeper it than became apparent that the pendants were as well
this is my attempt at the pendants 
they are to long at present and need attaching to - (what ever it is called - hole thing)
 

Not much to show for all the hours i put in on redoing the first pair of shrouds on each side of the build, there is definitely a knack to serving, i seam to need 3 arms to do it - it may have taken me a long time to get this far, but evolution is not going to give me another arm before i finish, so i used a combination of the motor from the rope walk and the hand serving tool and did it that way -  having the rope turning for me allowed me to feed the thread - and i got better as i went along
 
pendants (burton i think) 
 

Hi Mobsie 
 
i can see a slight improvement in my skills for this, but furry is an understatement - more hair than the wabbits ( now laughing at what i just typed) 
 
so i will try beeswax - or try again just for the hell of it 
 
foremast stay preventer (i think) 
 
mouse is the animal of the day 







 

tonight she looks like this 

It has been a little hectic at work,but I have managed to finally get in the shipyard this weekend
After much deliberation and the fact I now own a Brynes drawplate,I have decided to proceed with treenailing .This is being done exclusively in boxwood and includes the areas of Ebony.This contrast I noticed on the upper areas of Dr Mike's L'Ambiteux and is a feature I particularly like.I did a small area to get an idea of the finished result and have now started the mass drill and insertion.The idea with doing this as I go along is that I have the bulkheads as a guide and also to relieve what would be a mega monotonous job when the hull is fully planked.Also it is easier to sand smooth prior to fitting the wales above and below this section.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Nils,Michael,Ferit and Kevin
 
Always good to hear from you Ferit,I am glad you are sticking around,I hope at some point you return to your fabulous build
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

This side now planked between wales,gunports roughed out and given a rough sanding.Final finish sanding a little later when the other side is complete.I am kind of liking the 'clean' look,I may rethink the treenailing
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Nils,Michael,Ferit and Kevin
 
Always good to hear from you Ferit,I am glad you are sticking around,I hope at some point you return to your fabulous build
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Stern counter and area behind balcony now planked in 3mm wide ebony.I have tack glued a strip of obechi in to act as a spacer for where a boxwood moulding will sit.This will be removed when I cut the windows openings out.Doing it this way made it easier to sand,not having to work around a raised moulding
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

This side now planked between wales,gunports roughed out and given a rough sanding.Final finish sanding a little later when the other side is complete.I am kind of liking the 'clean' look,I may rethink the treenailing
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

The hearth was cut out of the card and a timber edge was added to it and it was fitted to the deck as shown in the first two photos. I realised after it was fitted that the shape of the hearth was not rectangular as I have depicted it but more of a triangular shape with the top cut off.
However I did not find this out until the stove had been fitted and it was too late to change it.
 
Also notice that the eyebolts for the gun train tackle have been fitted.
 
The stove was modelled on the Bounty's stove in McKay's Anatomy of the Ship which is probably not what the Victory's stove looked like but it is, I think, an improvement on the kit supplied part.
 
The first two photos show the hearth fitted and the next two show the start of the building of the stove. The main body was carved from the supplied lime wood block