NMBROOK

Dear visitors of my build,
 
here is some update on the Royal Caroline model.
 
Thanks for watching.
 
Regards,
Jan

I have fully sanded the deck smooth.After this,the deck was wiped with an extremely diluted mix of Liver of sulpur gel,http://www.metalclay.co.uk/patinas/,thiswas to take the shine off the copper,rather than turn it black,which a stronger mix would have done.It has removed the shine and darkened the copper ever so slightly.So far two coats of poly have been applied and the deck has been rubbed down ready for the third.
 
Happy New Year everyone
 
Nigel

I,like Matti prefer a brush.The biggest issue with wood,especially basswood,is that the first coat lifts the grain.I tend to apply lots of thin coats by brush with plenty of flatting back every couple of coats.You are gaining very little tooling up with an airbrush as any imperfections are sanded away anyway.However I do spray everything with clear polyurethane afterwards.
Painting areas that will be hard to reach as you go is highly recommended.
As Matti says though,there is no right and wrong,we just find a method that works best for us.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

She looks wonderful Vic It is almost a shame to apply any colour,instead leaving everything Pear i.e.Belgian style.I agree with George,modesty is a good quality,but I think you are being far to hard on yourself.I would question anyone that claims they never make mistakes and some tasks take a number of attempts to get right.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

thanks for the heads up.......hmmmm....if i don't beat myself ....nothin happens....nothin ..........inertia is my bigest hurdle........another hmmmmm.....no color wales etc......hmmmmm have to think about that one.......

hi....this is not a real build log, but rather a once in awhile ''where i'm at build'' along with sharing some experiences along the way and seeking some advice..............hmmmmm....maybe that's a build log.....
     i wasn't going to bother posting on this forum since i couldn't come close to competing with the exceptional builds here of the confederacy, since i'm a 30% impatient-30% trial- and 30% error builder....and as i've discovered.....no....i can't change, no matter hard i try...even at my age.........but.....somehow the models come out looking ok.........
    so this is a ''don't do this at home'' kind of post....or bare my butt log........for example......i have the ship on my lap.....lean over to sand a plank on the belt sander, and gouge a chunk out of the the planking below the wales near the bow....ha!...and you know what, to top it off??...i panick!!.....and grab the sanding block and try to sand down the gouge, and of course i end up with paper thin planks.....so.....i have to cut out and replace maybe 5 planks at different lengths so they  would blend in better and not stand out like a square patch.....and that wasn't easy....if i slipped and cut into a neighbouring plank, i'd have to cut that one out too.......so there.....this is the me i have to deal with, and i thought people here, wouldn't mind getting a laugh at this, or experience an i've done that too .........oh.....i oversanded a bit on another section too, but i just reinforced the back with 5 min epoxy instead of re-planking.....see how much fun this will be?....i have to say how nice that chuck designed so many bulkheads, which reduces this kind of thing from happening....for others, that is
   used swiss pear, which is a wonderful wood to work with, though it does have a bit of mottling in the grain, which is why i decided to use the rub on satin urethane instead of the tung oil, which i would have really prefered, but didn't use, as it would bring out the grain more......have only applied a quick rub on with urethane, to check apperance.....will use bass on the deck......
   i purchased a few cannons from syrene ship model cause the ones in the kit were ...hmmmmm........
anyways, i'll mold and cast them, and paint the number required instead of purchasing all brass.....they do seem a bit slim though, and i wonder if the nozzle hole should be widened somewhat.......and of course, i found a better ships wheel......
   anyways, until next time, and we'll see what other foibles i can come up with.....
oh....i do have to say that this is a super kit, and so much fun!.....and so much work has gone into the plans and manual...never seen anything like it....and in english!!!...a first for me.......now i can find out what everything is called...ha!......cheers, vic

I agree with Augie! Looks just fine to me. I think you're being just a little too hard on yourself and you certainly shouldn't be embarrassed by posting a build log. It's one of those "we can learn from each other's mistakes. 
 
Cheers 

Hello,
I wish you all a happy new year.

The building report continues with  the breeching ropes of the carronades.
The special feature is that the rope in the rear region of the
breech is protected by a leather taping in the form of a tube.
Here are some pictures of the work to breeching ropes.

 

 

Fantastic as always Nigel, just wonderful.  I'd never thought about LoS being used for this, but very interesting.  Do you think that it could also be a solution to providing an aged patina to copper hull plates?

I have fully sanded the deck smooth.After this,the deck was wiped with an extremely diluted mix of Liver of sulpur gel,http://www.metalclay.co.uk/patinas/,thiswas to take the shine off the copper,rather than turn it black,which a stronger mix would have done.It has removed the shine and darkened the copper ever so slightly.So far two coats of poly have been applied and the deck has been rubbed down ready for the third.
 
Happy New Year everyone
 
Nigel

I have fully sanded the deck smooth.After this,the deck was wiped with an extremely diluted mix of Liver of sulpur gel,http://www.metalclay.co.uk/patinas/,thiswas to take the shine off the copper,rather than turn it black,which a stronger mix would have done.It has removed the shine and darkened the copper ever so slightly.So far two coats of poly have been applied and the deck has been rubbed down ready for the third.
 
Happy New Year everyone
 
Nigel

I,like Matti prefer a brush.The biggest issue with wood,especially basswood,is that the first coat lifts the grain.I tend to apply lots of thin coats by brush with plenty of flatting back every couple of coats.You are gaining very little tooling up with an airbrush as any imperfections are sanded away anyway.However I do spray everything with clear polyurethane afterwards.
Painting areas that will be hard to reach as you go is highly recommended.
As Matti says though,there is no right and wrong,we just find a method that works best for us.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Lawrence I apologize not noticing your post earlier.Alas due to other build commitments,I do not have the time to devote to this model.I am itching to get back on with her,but she will have to wait a little longer.I am also suffering from withdrawal symptoms from woodcarving   .I have had to do the odd bit on Caroline to make some moulds,and it has made me realise how much I enjoy it.Good job really as there is probably in excess of 1000 carvings to produce on Sovereign  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Yup, spray cans are great for applying large coats of paint. Here's a tip: immerse your spray cans in hot water for 10 minutes before using them. This causes the pressure in the cans to build up, so the spray that you get is finer. If you let your cans get cold / or let the pressure go down, the paint comes out in droplets and causes a blotchy effect. 

I,like Matti prefer a brush.The biggest issue with wood,especially basswood,is that the first coat lifts the grain.I tend to apply lots of thin coats by brush with plenty of flatting back every couple of coats.You are gaining very little tooling up with an airbrush as any imperfections are sanded away anyway.However I do spray everything with clear polyurethane afterwards.
Painting areas that will be hard to reach as you go is highly recommended.
As Matti says though,there is no right and wrong,we just find a method that works best for us.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I,like Matti prefer a brush.The biggest issue with wood,especially basswood,is that the first coat lifts the grain.I tend to apply lots of thin coats by brush with plenty of flatting back every couple of coats.You are gaining very little tooling up with an airbrush as any imperfections are sanded away anyway.However I do spray everything with clear polyurethane afterwards.
Painting areas that will be hard to reach as you go is highly recommended.
As Matti says though,there is no right and wrong,we just find a method that works best for us.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hallo Dimitris, Nils, Elia, Nigel, Mark
 
I will following the discussion on the finish of the hull with great interest, i thank you for the valuable information, i need to learn much about this ...
 
Regards
Mike

Nigel,
Thanks for dropping by and I'm pleased you enjoyed yourself. I do like to make my build-logs entertaining where possible.
 
The LoS was purchased on-line and came from over East in New South Wales. At the time, I thought it a good idea to stock up, so I've bought 6 bottles. This will probably last me a life-time ... and, most likely, enough shall remain for me to bequeath some in my will.
 
So far, it has only been used on the thwart clamps and some small metalworking on the tool-chest. The colour was more of a smoky-black, rather than the nice, matt colour you (and others) get for the cannons. Never fear, I have three bottles of Caseys Brass Black currently in transit.

Nigel I had to look up what wills gaskets were. I will not be using them I am still deciding how to fix the head to the top of the cylinders my splitting it off was a compromise on my part because the original had it all cast as a single piece.
 
Some of the model engine builders have used a high temp J B-weld.
 
Michael

Druxey,Nigel, and Mark, thanks for looking in yes ouch indeed. 
I did a test cut this evening with the sharp nosed bit sideways and am going to cut the cam form as a single piece about 1 inch long.
 

 
  I am going to use the main gear that is normally used to set the headstock in back gear because it is a 60 tooth gear so I will set up an indent so as to lock the spindle in the 6 degree increments, the height of the cam is .022" from the cylindrical body so mapping out the 22 cuts using the gear to index I will be able to form the lobe then clean it up with files and wet and dry polish the hole thing then drill and ream for the 1/8th shaft
 
part off the cams and then locate them and set up a dial to position them drill for the pins then when doing the final assembly use some loctite as well as the pins
 

 
cams made on lathe.pdf
 
Thanks for all the likes
 
Michael

It makes a lot of sense to me Pete.The top would be the ideal vantage point to place archers.
 
Kind Regards
 
NIgel

Haha! I wholeheartedly agree with Captain Steve. If ever you should think you have posted too many pictures, then you have almost posted enough!  Your Wasa is eye candy!

I have had a thoroughly enjoyable time and a right laugh reading through your log Captain Steve     I knew I had to come and check it out when I saw you nuts in the other thread Some great original thinking that makes your model packed with detail.I am surprised that your LOS is the same make as mine,I would have thought someone may have produced it in Oz,rather than importing from the UK.Did you find it worked ok on brass?,The manufacturer does actually list a different product for brass.
As a sidenote,the welding technical coordinator of my former employer happened to be one of the worlds leading authorities on ancient Japanese swordmaking and metalurgy.He very rarely came into the workshop,I would have loved to have a chat with him as I find it fascinating.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Excellent work Michael The dummy carriage sections make a big difference.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have had a thoroughly enjoyable time and a right laugh reading through your log Captain Steve     I knew I had to come and check it out when I saw you nuts in the other thread Some great original thinking that makes your model packed with detail.I am surprised that your LOS is the same make as mine,I would have thought someone may have produced it in Oz,rather than importing from the UK.Did you find it worked ok on brass?,The manufacturer does actually list a different product for brass.
As a sidenote,the welding technical coordinator of my former employer happened to be one of the worlds leading authorities on ancient Japanese swordmaking and metalurgy.He very rarely came into the workshop,I would have loved to have a chat with him as I find it fascinating.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel