NMBROOK

Hi Nigel,
 
good question. What I did is, I marked the position of each frame on the building board, after the glue has set when I was building the first half.
I also transfered the position of every fourth frame from the plans to the building board. This way I was in good control, constantly checking against the plans and when buidling the second half checking against the marks of the first half.
Turned out, they both where the exact same length.
At some point I will start the hull for "Rivoli". I'm curious to see if I can replicate the results, or if it was beginners luck
 
Tom
 
 

Joe,
 
OOOPPPSSSS,
 
You asked about my other obsession. I apologize as this one response is totally OFF within my log, but I could not help myself since you asked J
 
I have enjoyed collecting for about 25 years. And over that time the amount of incorporated details have gone to the point of  “the incredible”. My upstairs case are for all of the extras. Downstairs is my other more formal case. I have about 250 cars.
 
The first three a 71 Mustang is not an important car, but is reflective of details for a 1/24th scale precision diecast. Note the manual trans gear linkage.
 
The other cars the Maserati, Bugatti, and the Panera are current releases in 1/18th scale. 
 
Regarding the Maserati if you look carefully just inside the water hose loop you will see that even the chassis number has been included. Yes the door pulls articulate and work, as well as the suspensions in almost all of my collection. These are for-all-intense-and-purposes miniatures of real cars. Some have over 1000 parts.
 
My other collection is of 1/400th aircraft 97% airliners, with just a few very important military aircraft such as the SR71
 
Cheers, thanks for asking.
 
I’ll stay on topic next time. Hope the pics are not too over the top, I know that I'm way off topic (:-) If the Moderators need to remove this post I understand....
 
Michael

Many thanks for a congratulation and comment! 
 
Best regards,

Hi there,
 
a quick note on cutting instruments.
I am using a dive-in sawblade, mounted on Proxxon's oszillating micro-sander. This is a convenient way of doing it. You don't need to drill 4 holes and then saw by hand.
Just dive in the blade into the material. Works very well, although every 20 gunports you have to use a file to reshape the teeth of the blade. They grind down fairly quicky. I guess after about 70-80 openings you can bin the blade.
 
Tom
 
 

Hi,
 
the gunports have been marked and are ready to be cut. The inner lines are the actual gunport openings. The outer lines are the lines to be cut. After cutting they will be fitted with an inner Frame with a cheap wood for perfect alignment. During planking they will receive their final Frames. This then reduces the openings to their correct size.

Fabulous work Dave I love the scratch deadeyes Just one small point,the ones fitted are upside down,the point should face the channel at the bottom and the shroud at the top.Sorry to bring the bad news but I thought it was best mentioned now rather than later when you have more fitted
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Truly outstanding work on the ship's boats Grant!!!   I will gladly admit,the pic with the four in your hand just blew me away!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I am glad you got it sorted Dave and they look fabulous The fact it has made the job easier is also a plus
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I owe you BIG TIME mate.

I am glad you got it sorted Dave and they look fabulous The fact it has made the job easier is also a plus
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Fabulous work Dave I love the scratch deadeyes Just one small point,the ones fitted are upside down,the point should face the channel at the bottom and the shroud at the top.Sorry to bring the bad news but I thought it was best mentioned now rather than later when you have more fitted
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Fabulous work Dave I love the scratch deadeyes Just one small point,the ones fitted are upside down,the point should face the channel at the bottom and the shroud at the top.Sorry to bring the bad news but I thought it was best mentioned now rather than later when you have more fitted
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hey all! Small update. I added the clamps holding the bowsprit ropes. I blended them to match the other wood, so they aren't very obvious. I also made the mainstay collar, trying to get it like the real one at the museum. Paintwise its washes and trying to get everything to blend and look balanced. I'm glad I repainted the lower area of the beakhead.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
/Matti
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Fabulous work Dave I love the scratch deadeyes Just one small point,the ones fitted are upside down,the point should face the channel at the bottom and the shroud at the top.Sorry to bring the bad news but I thought it was best mentioned now rather than later when you have more fitted
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hans, I just added them. I´ll post pictures later.
 
Cheers Frank! I will add the top railing later, the BB railings are very fragile. I got the suggestion to wait by Nigel earlier and it is the best solution. I don't think the shrouds will be to much in the way.
 
 
/Matti

I don´t know, consider walking up this in heavy wind...
 

 

 

 
What a hard life. 
 
 
/Matti

Hey Mates,
 
Nigel thanks for your sage advice. I will read your notes several times as I set up the Proxxon. 
 
JayPett, Joe and Buck you guys always help me along -- big cheers to you as well
 
Thanks for the likes and visits always appreciated.
 
Some of you sent me a PM birthday wish SO kind!!.
 
I know that the super majority of us prefer to post a neutral avatar. Many of us have become very nice helpful and caring internet friends. So given that its my Name Day today I thought that I would go out on a limb and post a face of your mate Michael.
This one was taken a few months ago (:-) That table is a child's size sorta fits my personality or so I've been told. Our son's room is now my hobby room
 
There's a a rumor of some kind of French drink with bubbles in it for tonight. (:-)
 
Cheers everyone..
 
Michael

Your fish davit looks the business Michael I love the accompanying reference pics with your posts
You shouldn't have any issues with milling your knightheads,just keep the cuts small in depth as I assume you will be using the 1mm cutter.Thinking through your dimensions thoroughly enables use of the xy table dials to the full and is much more accurate than working to pencil lines.It is just a case of setting the cutter edge to the edge of the workpiece and let the dials do the rest.The main thing to watch for is allowing for half the cutter diameter where necessary and remember to work centre to centre for the slots I find drawing it out on paper and writing how many millimetres between each cut on the sketch invaluable,i.e. the distance on the dials,doing it whilst milling adds to the confusion and mistakes been there done that
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Your fish davit looks the business Michael I love the accompanying reference pics with your posts
You shouldn't have any issues with milling your knightheads,just keep the cuts small in depth as I assume you will be using the 1mm cutter.Thinking through your dimensions thoroughly enables use of the xy table dials to the full and is much more accurate than working to pencil lines.It is just a case of setting the cutter edge to the edge of the workpiece and let the dials do the rest.The main thing to watch for is allowing for half the cutter diameter where necessary and remember to work centre to centre for the slots I find drawing it out on paper and writing how many millimetres between each cut on the sketch invaluable,i.e. the distance on the dials,doing it whilst milling adds to the confusion and mistakes been there done that
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Fabulous work mate!! I wouldn't envy the sailor whose job it was to shimy along the bowsprit
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks so much for your supportive suggestions, comments, likes and just looking in, all are very much appreciated.
 
Continuing with the braces for the anchors; I focused on the single fish davit beam that was employed to help raise the anchor flutes towards the gunwales.  Only one beam was recovered indicative of the single beam being moved port to starboard as needed.
 
------------------
 
I used a sanding disk to thin out a piece of wood. Then tapered both upper edges, added grooves on its outer tip and inner ends as well.
 
Added the required ropes and blocks.
 
Drilled four holes in the weather deck to simulate the two rope attaching laces.
 
Knotted two pieces of rope together using a Carrick bend.  This knot was a guess (I’m good at that J)
 
Glued the two ropes and also added glue to the knot ends to simulate a natural relaxed looking resting appearance on the deck
 
The last three pics are for my next area, still repairing previous mistakes, and will be giving my Proxxon milling machine its first real user test for adding the grooves  into the knightheads - Hmmmm Let’s see how that goes.
 
---------------------------
 
YES I am sooo irritated at myself for not recessing the gun deck cannon framings. I had thought of it as I was inserting the four bits per opening but the lip seemed too thin AND my skills then were not as good as they are now.. Now its really too late for a retro fix.    Next time….
 
Always my regards,
 
Michael

Hey again!
 
I've mounted the bowsprit and finished the ropes holding it.
 

 

 

 
It was lots of work as I had to reshape thin down the L shaped timbers holding the bow. Looking back I think it was good to wait with drilling the rope holes until knowing where to put them. That gave me liberty to arrange the beek head "floor planks" the way I wanted and then arrange the rope holes acccording to them, not the other way around. That said, I would have thinned down the L shaped parts slightly pre assembly to make it easier to get room for the holes, and this is a tip for builders of the kit. This way made me nervous about destroying anything...
 
I never was happy with the paint job on the lower beakhead parts, and this gave me an opportunity to make it better.
 
 
/Matti
 
 
 
Edit: I just realized that I didn't explain that the kit construction is with the ropes running "outside" the lower beakhead construction (wrong). Remember that I broke the beakhead earlier and strengthened it when repairing it. This made my beakhead stronger and that's good when doing this mod to the build.

Hi Karl
Your carving is just the icing on the cake of what is an exemplary piece of model building  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Nigel,
 
Thank you,
that sounds great and interesting to see, will be watching out for...
 
Nils

Ok then,I thought I would take the opportunity of waiting for glue to dry and upload some more pics.
I was not happy with my original strategy for the topsides as I thought in the long run it would be more work.The tops of the bulkheads have been replaced with solid Pear to a more authentic profile.These can be integrated in the topside framing detail,whereas the ply would have needed replacing later.The ply deck beams were inconsequential,I only left them in place as temporary braces.An authentic deck construction will be used gun deck upwards when I get to that stage.These pear extensions have been fitted with brass dowels epoxied in.The extensions have also been tweeked to allow for single planking.The remaining section of the bulkheads have been 'banded' with 1.5mm lime strip to compensate for single planking.I have incorporated a small section of orlop deck in front of the mizzen step as a ladder runs down here.There is also one right at the bow which will result in a significant amount of work in this area.I am leaving this until the 'donkey' work is complete on the rest of the hull as it will involve removing considerable amounts of material from the false keel.As you may have noticed the lower hull is filled with limewood.This is to provide substantial support to the single planking and is a good aid as this is one of the most complex shaped hulls I have worked on.The area where the pear frames meet the deck is a crucial point.The sheer on the outer edge has to be perfect as everything will be measured from here.This is the reason for setting 6mm lime sections in around the perimeter.It ensures the ply subdeck will conform to exactly the right profile.One section is clamped in place while the glue dries.I have clamps ranging from 20p up to £95 but sometimes the easiest solutions are the best    
Kind Regards Nigel