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NMBROOK

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  1. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to mtaylor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED   
    Thanks for comments and the likes.
     
    I hadn't thought of that, Nigel.   It would be easier than cutting off the tab after the clamp is in place.  
  2. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in Licorne 1755 by mtaylor - 3/16" scale - French Frigate - from Hahn plans - Version 2.0 - TERMINATED   
    Looking good Mark If you find the need to remove the reference tabs in an area where you are working,and it will definitely be covered with planking,i.e. above the main wales,you could always drill a tiny hole outside to inside on the frames centreline.This would obviously remain no matter how much fairing you did.
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel
  3. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed   
    Thanks so much Tim, Ben and Nigel. 
     
    Sorry Nigel, I haven't tried the Birchwood Casey on any soldered parts and have no idea how, or if, it works on them.
     
    Bob
  4. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to Doreltomin in Name the Ship Game   
    Aaah, Nigel, you were faster than me! 
     
    I was just trying to write here about the same thing when the site said "there are two more answers to show"....
     
    if she's not the HMS Glatton then she must be one of the Cyclops class of 1870:
    HMS Cyclops,
    HMS Gorgon,
    HMS Hecate,
    HMS Hydra.
     
    Later edit: With the last clue "name the same as her class" that makes:  HMS Cyclops!
     
    So congratulations Nigel, seems you got her!
  5. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to rafine in Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed   
    In my last update, I had made and fitted, but not installed, the main jeer bitts. They are now mounted. I have also made and mounted the main topsail sheet bitts. The other new items are the forward cranks for the chain pumps and their supports. As with the other deck fittings, the wood parts are boxwood . The cranks are blackened brass wire and the belaying pins in the bitts are blackened brass parts. As with the aft cranks, I chose to simplify them by merely bending the wire, rather than attempting a multi part assembly at this scale.
     
    I'm now working on the next batch of guns.
     
    Bob





  6. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to md1400cs in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75   
    Hi Mates,
     
    Still working on those carriages.
     
    Here is a minor update.  First pic. is of the upper and leading edge carriage metal frames after I chemically darkened the brass pieces. As I mentioned earlier each four piece set is specific a particular one of the 14 carriage.
     
    I then glued all of the pieces. Subsequently realized that the black chemical process did not allow the glue to adhere to the carriages. I had not washed off each small piece for fear of having them go down the drain, so glued them directly. Instructions do say "wash off" Hmmmm
     
    I then needed to scape off the glue sides to re-adhere the small parts. It would have been probably easier to paint them. Though I feared that over time the paint would peel off.
     
    Next was painting the cannon barrels. I initially chose a water-based paint made specifically for airbrushing. BIG mistake. Paint would not adhere after drying. I knew of this potential but was rushing myself.
     
    So after scrubbing off the first attempt at painting, I then used an enamel paint that needed to be thinned and was a bit messy at cleanup, but looks excellent.
     
    Next was scraping the emblems to bring out their details.
     
    Next steps will be to attach the cannons and add the upper restraining hinges, then on to the ropes/blocks. Again, thanks so much for visiting it is so appreciated.
     
    Regards,
     
    Michael
     
     
     
     







  7. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Thanks Nigel.. good to be back ! Tori was brilliant (am a bit of a fan.. cute Read-Heads work for me  ) Am off to Godzilla now.. WooHoo (am a sucker for that kinda film too.. nuff said eh?)
     
    Catch ye later
     
    Eamonn
  8. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Good to see a post at last mate Tori Amos,gosh you are bringing back memories there Instead of cutting out shapes have you been throwing some?   It was a long time since I did big box,little box   Sorry,getting carried away in nostalgia         .Good to hear you are back on the build buddy.
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel
  9. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build   
    Sorry about the 'Down Time' folks.. but the latest news is that I have begun the deck today !!
    Have had way too many distractions over the last few weeks including a Tori Amos concert
     
    No photos at the moment as there is only half of one row in place and who wants to see that...
     
    Hopefully things will get back on track now  (well later that is as I'm off to the cinema shortly to see Godzilla  )
     
    All the Best Folks and Ta for checking in..
     
    Eamonn
  10. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from ChrisLBren in Admiralty Style Frames-What about showing different parts as done with plank cauking lines?   
    Hi Keith
    I have never seen the frame joints highlighted on modern or contemporary models.Many original Admiralty models didn't have built up frames like the original ship,just as many didn't have detailed interiors.There are a lot of original construction details omitted from many of these models.The main aim was to convince the Admiralty they wanted your design.Accurate representation of the hull construction was unnecessary as this would follow the stardard practice of the time.This was also the case with masting and rigging which is why the models were presented unmasted Many of the pics you see now of these models have had masting and rigging added at a later date,which was done at the request of the private owner of the model.
    To 'highlight' these joints,off course is entirely a personal choice.If you were to enter into a competition I feel your model may be marked down as a result,but of course you are at the mercy of the judges on the day so who knows.
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel
  11. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from cog in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Work is slowly progressing on the port side.As I have proved everything on the starboard side,this acts as a template for the port side.This has enabled me to fit the gunport frames earlier in the process to make it easier to shape the internal profile.The handy thing with the gunport design is that tweaks are easy.Some of the holes for the linings have been adjusted and boxwood veneer shims used to ensure perfect alignment when sighting down the side of the hull.I have also been able to fit the lower counter side timber earlier than before.The rather random looking pear blocks at the bow are for shaping to match the other side.The are placed to ensure adequate material to carve the shape out of.
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel




  12. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from cog in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    I have started a job on the side that will run in conjunction with the main construction work.This is that of the figurehead.There are differences between museum model and the kit.The main one being there are two 'characters' behind the lion.I say characters because I am still uncertain as to what they are They remind me very much of the 'purple' thingy on Matti's Vasa build .However these affect the shape of the prow considerably and I will need to produce this trio of carvings to be able to determine the prow shape.
    Some good news is that the museum model's Lion is tailless unlike the one on the kit plans and it is not clutching an emblem also shown on the plans.It is a nice change that research actually simplifies a design .Anyway I chose to take a copy of the Lion shown on the plans and use this,just omit tail and emblem,as it will be far more convincing than my freehand drawing attempts.The copy was glued onto a piece of European box of suitable thickness.
    I first milled the slot for the prow,but leaving a small section at the feet.This will be removed later when the bulk of the shaping is done,it simply serves to keep a little strength for now while the rough work is done.The profile was cut using a combination of the miller,large scalpel and burrs.The result in the pics is from about 8 hours work!!.
    The very thin wafer at the mouth will hopefully be the tongue when finished
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel





  13. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to SJSoane in Admiralty Style Frames-What about showing different parts as done with plank cauking lines?   
    Here are a couple of early photos my my admiralty frame of the Bellona, following ideas in Franklin's book. You can see that I did not highlight the joints between frames. But in the lower hull, which is all that will show after planking the upper hull, the different directions of the wood grain in the separate pieces naturally highlights the parts. Look particularly at the stern and stem deadwood. It is a very pleasing natural contrast.
     
    Best wishes,
     
    Mark
     


  14. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from druxey in Admiralty Style Frames-What about showing different parts as done with plank cauking lines?   
    Hi Keith
    I have never seen the frame joints highlighted on modern or contemporary models.Many original Admiralty models didn't have built up frames like the original ship,just as many didn't have detailed interiors.There are a lot of original construction details omitted from many of these models.The main aim was to convince the Admiralty they wanted your design.Accurate representation of the hull construction was unnecessary as this would follow the stardard practice of the time.This was also the case with masting and rigging which is why the models were presented unmasted Many of the pics you see now of these models have had masting and rigging added at a later date,which was done at the request of the private owner of the model.
    To 'highlight' these joints,off course is entirely a personal choice.If you were to enter into a competition I feel your model may be marked down as a result,but of course you are at the mercy of the judges on the day so who knows.
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel
  15. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to maggsl_01 in HMY Royal Caroline by maggsl_01 - FINISHED - Panart - 1:47   
    Hello all
     
    Well I started the building of der Royal Caroline today. The pics show the first steps, still not glued, only dry fitting. The first impressions of the kit are really good. All parts are well designed, well packed, nothing was damaged in any way, nothing is missing. The building instructions are in a very cute language... a kind of German - but I understand Italian good enough to use the original instructions. The English translation is better than the german one.
     
    The timber is very good Quality, two different kinds of plywood plates. The cutting is exactly, only very few need to sand or improve the precut parts as far as I can say up to now. I think it will be a fun to build the RC but of course it will be a challenge for me.
     
    I will report constantly, attached some pics of the first steps-
     
    Cheerio
     
    Max
     
     





  16. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from egkb in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Only kidding Joe     golf is not for me either.
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel
  17. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from maggsl_01 in HMY Royal Caroline by maggsl_01 - FINISHED - Panart - 1:47   
    Hi Max
    Abebooks.co.uk have several secondhand copies for sale as I believe the book is out of print at the moment.Unfortunately they range from rather expensive to the ridiculous in price.Suggest you have a look and see what you think.Don't think you will find a pdf as the book pre-dates the kindle revolution.You can wait and keep an eye on Amazon,I wanted AOS Victory,first look they were £200 upwards,kept checking and found one for £35 some months later.
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel
  18. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to rafine in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Nigel, you guys don't know what you're missing. Golf provides enough aggravation to make any difficulties encountered in ship modeling seem very easy.
     
    Bob
  19. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75   
    Thanks guys! Nigel, if tops are what I think -märsen in swedish- then I just plan to tweak and add details to the kit ones.
     
    Thanks for the likes everyone!
     
    /Matti
  20. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75   
    Excellent work mate I am looking forward to seeing how you tackle the tops as there is a mountain of work in those if you choose to make them from scratch
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel
  21. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from NAZGÛL in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Hi Matti
    I think Ersin's figurehead speaks for itself(pics in his log in the scratch section)If my humble attempt gets anywhere near 1/10 of the standard of his work,I will be more than pleased Anyway we shall she,those pics of Lloyd McCaffery's miniature carvings made me think of taking up golf instead    
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel
  22. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to WackoWolf in MORDAUNT 1681 by NMBROOK - Euromodel - 1:60 - Beyond Bashed   
    Screw golf, I would rather have someone hit the ball and then see if I can shoot it in the air instead of hitting the ball and then go find it just to hit it again and in the end I have to bend over to pick it up. The real challenge would be to shoot it in the air after someone hits it, now that would be hard. I will stick to boats and pull the rest of what I have left for hair out. Just my 2 cents.
  23. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to mij in Xebec by mij - FINISHED - 1:60 scale   
    Hi Nigel
     
    Yes, that would be a good size, I shall sit down and see what I can do.
     
    Regards
     
     mij
  24. Like
    NMBROOK got a reaction from mij in Xebec by mij - FINISHED - 1:60 scale   
    Hi mij,
    You could always have the best of both worlds and build Sussex POB and to a slightly smaller scale say 1/64
     
    Kind Regards
     
    Nigel
  25. Like
    NMBROOK reacted to geoff in What are your most interesting and/or useful books   
    the only thing I cant get my head round is Re Keiths use of Cyano glue for 2nd planking I go for a walk to the shops every morning & I don't like the idea of walking round with HMS Supply hanging off my hands ! Other than that the books are great ! Geoff
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