NMBROOK
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
Update - The next thing I did was make up the anchors. The kit provides 4 anchors of 2 different sizes. The flukes were a little too wide so I narrowed them down & filed down the mold lines. The stocks were of the generic kind & way too fat & short,so I made some new ones with the correct dimensions. a groove was filed around them to look like 2 pieces & the iron bands were simulated by using some heat shrink tubing. New rings were made from some .8mm brass wire & wrapped with black thread for the puddening. Next,the anchor buoys are provided in the kit as barrel shaped wood pieces,which I made slings for with some .6mm black rope. They don`t look the best,but they were difficult to hold & get all the ropes tied on.
Mark
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
Update - I decided to make the channels for the chainplates next. First ,I cut the channels from the kit supplied wood & shaped them to fit the curve of the mounting areas. Then I filed some grooves just deep enough for the chainplates to fit in. A strip will be added to the outside edge after the chainplates are fitted. I didn`t have enough wide strips to make the support knees,so I made them out of basswood. Then I made the metal support arches from .8x1.5 brass bar using a combination of looping & needle nose pliers. Brass pins were installed to help hold the channels in place.
Mark
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
Thanks Michael .
In case anyone was wondering how I bent all those railings,here is what I use - a plank bender I bought many years ago when Aeropiccola was still in business. It`s simply a 50 watt soldering iron with a comma shaped head in it. It has an adjustable spring loaded roller to hold the plank down & you just plug it in & it will heat up. After soaking the plank in some plain water,I slip the plank under the roller,let the iron heat up,& start applying some pressure on the plank & it will start bending. Softer woods need only a few minutes to soak,while harder wood may need up to an hour depending on the thickness of the wood. This is the most useful tool I have - if you ever find one for sale -BUY IT.
Mark
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
Update - all the middle deck windows are in place. They fit together nicely,although I had to add a shim across the tops of the windows between the side openings. the middle deck is now in place also & lines up nicely with the openings in the stern fascia.
Mark
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
A little more progress - After carefully bending the railings above the lower windows,I painted them gold & black. I couldn`t get regular taffrail stanchions to fit to my liking,so I went shopping & found some plastic toothpicks with some nicely grooved shanks. After trimming them to fit,I painted them a medium brown & glued them in place. I think they look pretty good. The railing is not glued in place yet - I am still trying to determine exactly where to position them. Also the red on the doorway behind the railing now looks close to its actual color.
Mark
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
Hi all - another small update. I once again cut out all those window panes in the middle gallery windows & painted them.There seems to be no definitive color scheme,so I am just painting everything as I see fit. Giving it a curve to match the stern fascia,it set on the deck with no filing on the bottom. The slant of the side openings matched the angle of the fascia very nicely also. The side entry pieces are VERY fragile - I broke one twice just fitting the parts to the deck - a bit of paint hides the repair. The assembly must be placed carefully so the side entries go up against the back of the fascia.
Mark
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
Well,I decided to re-do those knees to better match the edge of the deck. Not to difficult - the old ones just popped right off. I think it looks a little better.
Mark
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
Hi all - a small update. After scratching my head,checking the plans,& Pete`s info I am slowly proceeding with the stern. The stern fascia is flat & needs to be curved,so I put it in some water for a short time & clamped it to a hard plastic oval shaped waste container. When dry it retained a proper curve. Since it is made of an ugly mahogany plywood I planked it with some leftover hull planks.
After clamping it to the back of the hull,I could proceed to make the deck it sits on.
One other note - while sorting out the upper row of windows they appear to be mis-marked according to what the plans show. If I laid them out according to the plans,they don`t fit the openings.
After shuffling them around,they then matched the openings.
Mark
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
Well,here is transom support version 2.0 - better angle on the rear edge,more room for the gun port,& lower piece re- cut for the metal bands. I am pretty happy with it now. Gotta love these re-do`s.As always,thanks for looking in & hitting the like button
Mark
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Royal William by marktiedens - FINISHED - Euromodel - scale 1:72
Well,I decided to modify those stern pieces a little further. The upper piece should have a bit of a slant at the rear edge instead of perfectly vertical,so out with the belt sander & beveled the rear edge. Much better now I think. Thanks to keith w for the heads up on this. Now I have to modify the bottom piece to fit again,which means re-carving those grooves for the metal bands.
Mark
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NMBROOK got a reaction from md1400cs in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
Hi Ferit
Fabulous to see you active again my friend. I haven't been around for a long time either mainly due to work demands but hope things will improve a little as the New year progresses
Kind regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Ferit in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
Hi my friend, Nigel;
Thank you for your kind welcome. Me too having major changes in my life, I had to leave out my build. I wish everything is going good for you and your dock becomes more busy and intense than erstwhile. It's always a privilege to see you on work...
And a little progress. Doing as much as I can.
Actually, maybe this is a shame to share those 9 ratline as a progress but they are the evidence of my work enthusiasm...
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NMBROOK got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
Hi Ferit
Fabulous to see you active again my friend. I haven't been around for a long time either mainly due to work demands but hope things will improve a little as the New year progresses
Kind regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from marktiedens in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
Hi Ferit
Fabulous to see you active again my friend. I haven't been around for a long time either mainly due to work demands but hope things will improve a little as the New year progresses
Kind regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Ferit in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
Thank you Hamilton,
The repair was like a first step. It is easy to change a broken part but I was officious and impatient at that time, not ready mentally, I had finished with more damage...
Now I feel more prepared and eager but a little leisurely...
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NMBROOK got a reaction from KennethGag in Choosing a miller
Thank you very much Edward.I was prepared to but the larger Proxxon machine,but I now feel this would be of limited use.The machine will be mostly used for deck fittings and the odd small size housing joint.I get the impression the larger Proxxons are more geared to model engineering applications.MF70 is definitely the way to go.May I ask if you know whether there is adequate space on this machine to fit proxxon's dividing table?
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from PeteB in Carving from Belgorod
Your Lion is wonderful Alexander I am sure I speak for many when I say yes,pictures of the work in progress please.Thank you for sharing your marvelous talent with us.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Old Collingwood in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
Good to see you back on your build Jason but sorry to see the rework,however it happens to us all.With something like this,I have walked away and come back to resolve it later. Definitely something to do with a cool head.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from kier in Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75
Your scratchbuilt carriage lots fantastic Michael Absolutely no comparison with Corel's offering.The cannons look far more inkeeping with Vasa,nothing wrong with Corel's example,just not right for this time period.I have a feeling I have seen those cannon's somewhere else
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from canoe21 in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
Coming on well Eamonn you missed the line"smoke me a kipper I'll be back for breakfast,Johnny"remember that one?Yes I concur some Chinese takeaways do have a forte for overcooking squid,so Kester's theory may indeed be true
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from canoe21 in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
Looking very good Eamonn,great work.I have to agree with Kester,snapping those ears off is butchery careful cutting and removal is the way to go Theoretically the rabbet at the bow will secure the planks,but pinning shouldn't be necessary anyway.Got to google'the plank' now
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Archi in HMS Sussex 1693 by Gilbert McArdle
Hi Mij
I also have this excellent book and intend this to be my first full navy board style build.An interesting point is that the framing detail matches exactly the builder's model and not necessarily that of proper shipbuilding practice.I look forward with great interest to following your build.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Elijah in Mamoli model kits are back
A huge congratulations Daniel I am certain that with Mamoli's choice of some not to common subjects coupled with your great kit design ability,the models will be great sellers
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from leginseel in avoiding bleed between stain & paint
Hi Hamilton
I would stain the upper hull first without masking,no matter if you go a bit below the waterline.Allow to dry thoroughly then apply two or three coats of polyurethane over the whole hull.Allow to harden off for 48 hours.Mask above the waterline and rub the bottom down lightly with 320 grit silicon carbide paper.Replace the masking if necessary(I would have used cheap masking tape for the first step as its only to protect from scratching the upper hull and tamiya masking for the second) and then paint the bottom.
Hope this helps
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from PeteB in HMS Dragon 1760 by Siggi52 - FINISHED - Scale 1:48 - English 74-Gun ship
Beautiful work Siggi I am glad you have started a log and look forward to following along.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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