NMBROOK

Ahoy Kevin
 
I will second Nigel' response. Evergreen styrene has saved my ars many times. It is great for adding things two. Whatever you think you need buy a size above and below. It's uses are endless.

That was the plan Jason, They had a big Eire (Ireland in the native language) painted on the side too.. didn't work for 2 of them though (if memory serves the Irish Oak & the Irish Pine) both were sunk in the Atlantic, bit before my time mind you These vessels were pretty much derelicts' bought up and put into service for the war period,  ISL bought all new ships after the war and got up to a reasonable tonnage in the late 60's early 70's wit a 70000  tonner in the early 80's, just in time for the company to fold up as I entered my Cadetship.. Typical 
 
Eamonn
 
Bear them in mind as you might see a few from me in future

Hi Brian,
Well bully for him. I wish other companies like Mantua for instance, had someone like him. When I start the build, I am looking forward to working with him.
Vince

I am very impressed already with Euromodels and I have not even bought one yet. I went on their website to download the excellent shop notes they have on the Royal William. There are 6 files of notes with extensive building instructions of every part of the build. I downloaded all of them except chapter 2 because the website would not let me do so.
I sent them an E-Mail to their customer help department asking if they could fix the problem with chapter 2. I was hoping for an answer sometime in the future if I was lucky. I have contacted other manufacturers in the past and very rarily got an answer at all. Euromodels answered me 1 hour after I sent the request and also fixed the website at the same time.
Now that is customer service! I am really looking forward to purchasing the Royal William soon after completing the SOS in about 6 months.
 
Vince P.

Very nice clean crisp work Kevin.Just a suggestion,if you could get some plastruct/evergreen styrene section with the correct internal dimensions for your bridge windows,you could cut the holes a little larger and bond this in.Then sand flush and fill if necessary when set
Kind Regards Nigel

my sister just rang, you finished that plastic kit yet,
No was the reply,
on asking why i was being subjected to the Spanish inquisition - she remembered me making one about 40 years ago made from about 20 pieces and glue in a tube, when i explained 1700 kit pieces and another 1700 in the PE and longer than the victory she changed the subject- oh hum

Love it!!!!  We'll clean this part up later so the links have prominence.

Plastic, modeling, hints tips and video's

Post the links here... if we get more than few, we'll pin the topic.  Plastic hints and tips only please.   Might just remove the "painting" from the title however.

Ahoy Peter
 
I have also had very good success with the "pin wash" which is also very similar and simple to do. It is used to highlight parts that connect at different angles. Mixed the same way as a wash but applied to the "seam" at one point and allowed to run down it.
 
Speaking of which
 
Using White glue is an excellent way to hide the gaps you sometimes get mounting the structures on top of each other or on the ship itself. It dries clear and causes the colors of the parts to be reflected into it hiding the glue and filling the seam.
 
But
 
NO: it won't fill the big ones, just the little ones . Applied the same way as the pin wash. Thin the glue

Ahoy Kevin
 
A trick borrowed from the plastic airplane community, now used by many plastic ship builders is to use different color primers. It will allow you to use the same color but in a different tone to better bring out the gray item, against the gray background or separate the two gray structures. A problem modeling modern ships. Done correctly this can really give the model a lot of depth. I use the Tamiya and Mr. Hobby primers and adding a some flat black causes a subtle but noticeable difference in the final coat/color.
 
Another; easier trick is to buy a "boat load" of your color. Mix it all up, split it in two and add either flat white or flat black to one. Just a tiny bit.. Do not eyeball the wet paint but do side by side test strips of the two colors. Check them once dry. For a realistic effect it needs to be barely noticeable. Too much and it looks unrealistic.
 
You also have dry brushing which can be used to really pull out the sharp edges that are commonly lost in the sea of gray.  I use artist oils and found the titanium white to be one of my favorites. The oils take much longer to dry and can be removed without damaging the paint underneath. The white can be applied so thin it only lightens the base color. I prefer the water based Windsor & Newton.
 
PS: Your log is killing me. I so want to start another plastic model ship.

Hi Kevin
There are some outstanding tutorials on youtube by some of the japanese modelmakers.Many are ship related and although in japanese because the way they are filmed,you can pick quite a lot up.I even started to realise what the japanese was for certain processes .Unfortunately I no longer have the link as it was before meltdown of my last laptop However I think they would be quite easy to find using the search engine.
Kind Regards Nigel

Hej Richard,
 
I’m  a lucky man and own both setups (the MF70  & the BFW 40/E and the table setup as shown by MIJ) 
So hereby my findings for both setups.. 
 
I started off with the MF70 and I’m very, very satisfied  with this product
 
Pro.

-It comes with an compound table and the “head” also moves down & up  via an spindle and it is good for accurate router tasks.
-It is also very good for small router bits and harder materials as the speed can varied between 5.000 - 20.000 rpm
-Collets and a three-jaw drill chuck can be used
-Is a small machine
 

Con.
-The “spindles” on the compound table (200x70mm) are small and therefore I use the spindle itself for accurate movements and not the handles
-It is a time consuming machine for drill tasks as the vertical movement only can be operated by an (small) spindle
-It can’t be used for “tilted” drill/router tasks 
 
 


 
As for the other setup..
I was actually looking for an drill-press but instead my attention focused on this BFW 40/E setup (contains BFB 2000, KT 150 and BFW 40/E) ..  
 
Con.
-The total setup is more expensive (but I must admit it is worth the extra money)
-Needs a separate power supply
-Less rpm’s than the MF70 (900-6.000 rpm)
-Only collets can be used
 
Pro.
-The compound table (200x200mm) can be bought separately/later, the spindles are more accurate, can move very fast and the handles are usable  
-The head can be tilted, so angled tasks are no problem
-The setup is Multi-functional (via an lever the head can be switched into a “router/static” or “drill-press/lever” mode)
-The motor-unit (BFW 40/E) is very, very, very quiet…   
-It can also handle “big” work pieces 
 
 

I would like to apologize to the members of MSW for my somewhat abrupt behavior over the last day or so.  In addition, I apologize to Chuck for any difficulties this may have caused.  He and I have been in contact, via PM and I hope at some point he sees fit to return to MSW administration.
 
We are, in fact, of the same mind.  This site exists for the purpose of model shipbuilding discussion while, at the same time, leaving room for a certain degree of so-called off topic comments essential to establishing personal relationships.  Others may agree or not depending on their own outlook.  But in my opinion we have long been tolerant of one another in order to have a vibrant, harmonious site.  Somehow, lines were drawn and we became divided.
 
This is not why we came here.
 
I intend to return to 'active duty', welcoming any and all commentary to my logs with the proviso that we keep things somewhat more focused than in the past.  I thank all those who intervened positively during this episode and hope that those who chose to leave will return to MSW.

All righty then Name the Shippers.. try this one for size, not on the same difficulty level with Pollux (I can think of a rhyming word that I would call that one.. )
 
The clues are in the photo.. some BIG obvious ones there for a start
 
I reckon ye should only take about 20 to 30 mins of searching to find this.. if even that long!!
 
Eamonn
 
Clock Starts ... NOW...
 

 

Thanks Jan.. Pollux was the only ship I could find that even remotely looked like your post... though having said that I was almost going to offer Astrid as an answer..
Boy oh boy that was an awkward one Jan
 
Give me a few hours guys and I'll have something worthy of your attention (hopefully not as tough as Pollux though )
 
Eamonn

I think Eamon has other fish to fry in stead of recovering.
He has to find a new ship to show us here.
The brig in my picture was indeed ZrMs Pollux, Dutch Navy Brig.
No real history, so apart from one or two lines in some obscure Wiki-page and this pic there is little to find on her. 
 
Jan

Sorry Jan as well,been very busy with work stuff,you have not been forgotten
Kind Regards Nigel
 
ps I think Eamonn is still recovering from that mad dash game last week

Sorry Jan, haven't been able to put any time into your challenge recently.. sorry for leaving you 'hanging', hope to get back to you in next few days..   Looks like a bunch of us have abandoned you..
It isn't a conspiracy... Honest  :)
 
Eamonn
 
Edit 19th Nov.. Have just finished 1 hour of searching... alas I have noting except a Dutch Brig called Pollux, of which I can find no more info..
 
We may need a few clues I'm afraid..
 
E

Sorry Jan, been a bit side-tracked lately..
 
Will take another look later
 
Eamonn

Hi Nigel
 
I use a Proxxon mill/drill-complete system (Ref:718225).
I will be following your thread, as I know I can learn a lot from you.
 
mij

This is a picture of my Proxxon mill
 

 
mij

I thought they would be just as strong,but didn't post anything for fear of walking into a hornets nest   The ash produced by laser cutting is on the floor under the machine.The black  is purely discolouration unless it was 4pm on a friday when they were cut .You still end up cleaning the edges though because the laser cutting pattern is tapered just like waterjet,This means all cut edges aren't square anyway unless of course you buy a kit that is cnc routed.
Kind Regards Nigel

I thought I would bump this topic as I have a couple of pics showing an example of what can be done with a miller that would be awkward to do by hand.I made this rather small jig to produce glazing frames for the skylight of a Royal Caroline build(log coming very soon).This jig took literally 10 mins from start to finish.The circular recesses are for glue clearance and the central slot is to provide clearance for tweezers,shown in picture for scale.The boxwood is actually 0.7mm square and the jig enables me to make two at a time.The long sides will be cut after removal from the jig.Tamiya masking tape provides the hitec clamp.
Kind Regards Nigel

I thought they would be just as strong,but didn't post anything for fear of walking into a hornets nest   The ash produced by laser cutting is on the floor under the machine.The black  is purely discolouration unless it was 4pm on a friday when they were cut .You still end up cleaning the edges though because the laser cutting pattern is tapered just like waterjet,This means all cut edges aren't square anyway unless of course you buy a kit that is cnc routed.
Kind Regards Nigel