NMBROOK

Mark, some further thoughts below. I have been an avid follower of your beautiful work. 
 
Frank, also some thoughts below -I was thinking of your superb work with sails
 
Thanks Mates for your encouraging words.
 
-------------------------------------------
 
Ouch – here I go again; only looking at “what I want to see”
 
Turns out that the just installed four shrouds (not mast stays as I called them) L will have the correct hooks and blocks at the chainplates for attaching the tackles…..
 
BUT the just installed lines with double blocks should have been attached to fiddle blocks NOT double blocks - grrrrr. Mark I also feel your pain !
 
Now what should I do? Still thinking. Hmmmm.
 
My rigging may become the “Titanic” part of this build in any case. That said, I have for all intents-and-purposes nixed my “dreams” of adding sails. Skills are just not there. (I did buy the sail material) funny
 
OK done venting. Ha ha - After following those of you who have added sails to your beautiful Vasa CHEERS !  “I’m just not there”  
 
PS: Now if ONLY Vasa II got published, I might learn enough to “wing it” with sails, and certainly proper rigging.
 
PS 2: I SO appreciate all of your super nice comments, and I do feel comfortable as I have mentioned before with these posted bits of the build and, I do enjoy trying to create “ideas” for details that I have not yet seen visiting other builds.
 
I also plan, for example, to attempt building the main mast out of several main pieces a seen in Landtröm's book and from the museum mainmast plan sheet. I will try to give it the right perspective.
 
Michael

 
 

Continually amazed by your attention to detail Michael You do know the museum model is 1/10 and you are working at 1/75
 
Have you tried annealing the brass eyelets first?they will be work hardened from the stamping process.This should stop the tearing
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

NIgel,
 
Thank you - you are always so kind with your remarks.
 
Regarding scale, I do think that I have succumbed to the dark side of "having to" add tiny bits that are - so not needed, and almost impossible to see - That said, thanks I will try your suggestion, and continue with this obsession (:-)
 
PS: I hope that a torch lighter will do the trick.Thanks
 
Regards,
 
Michael

I immediately thought of this Alex when I saw Marks post http://otwdesigns.com/products/other-navies/french-surcouf/.HoweverI think this is the same model kit.
The Surcouf did go through some changes during her life,most notably the gun director and conning tower.There used to be a manufacturer called John Darnell in the UK that produced hull mouldings and plans for a working model.Many years ago I saw a model built to his plans and there seemed to be more exposed 'scaffolding' for want of a better word,in her construction.
Sorry I can't be more helpful,but photos seem to be thin on the ground.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

It is fantastic to see you back in the shipyard Bill.I have had along break from my build due to new job and finally selling and moving house.This ship isn't one I can pick up and do an odd hour here and there,it is just so time absorbing.
One of the great things about this vessel is that unless you build a kit OOTB then there is so much choice due to personal interpretation of the reference material.
I look forward to seeing more,it may also give me the push I need to revisit mine.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Continually amazed by your attention to detail Michael You do know the museum model is 1/10 and you are working at 1/75
 
Have you tried annealing the brass eyelets first?they will be work hardened from the stamping process.This should stop the tearing
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I immediately thought of this Alex when I saw Marks post http://otwdesigns.com/products/other-navies/french-surcouf/.HoweverI think this is the same model kit.
The Surcouf did go through some changes during her life,most notably the gun director and conning tower.There used to be a manufacturer called John Darnell in the UK that produced hull mouldings and plans for a working model.Many years ago I saw a model built to his plans and there seemed to be more exposed 'scaffolding' for want of a better word,in her construction.
Sorry I can't be more helpful,but photos seem to be thin on the ground.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I immediately thought of this Alex when I saw Marks post http://otwdesigns.com/products/other-navies/french-surcouf/.HoweverI think this is the same model kit.
The Surcouf did go through some changes during her life,most notably the gun director and conning tower.There used to be a manufacturer called John Darnell in the UK that produced hull mouldings and plans for a working model.Many years ago I saw a model built to his plans and there seemed to be more exposed 'scaffolding' for want of a better word,in her construction.
Sorry I can't be more helpful,but photos seem to be thin on the ground.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Alex,
 
Did you see this?  

Alexandru,wow,this has got to be the most spectacular models of Victory I have seen.I am not a big fan of too much paint on my own models,I would rather let the beauty of the timber shine through,so your build appeals to me greatly      .
Stunning work!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you Grant and Bob
I tried the paint route,didn't look right,so that idea aborted The issue is the massive difference in colour between the boxwood I use for carving and the box used for general construction and planking.
This is further complicated by the fact I am not prepared to carve every detail on the model,kit castings will be used where appropriate.
The plan is that everything was always going to be box and ebony,no other colours anywhere.I am prepared to make one exception and that is the decoration,so now I have tried my 'get out of jail card'.
The pic is of the carving with gilding paste applied.This stuff buffs up to a high sheen,does not obscure detail and does not have the metallic flakes prominent like paint.
This does present another problem in that you cannot cover it with Poly,even if you spray it on,it turns milky.This would mean doweling the carvings and fitting all the ornamentation when the hull and decks are complete and fitted out.
The pic really doesn't do it justice.The combination of iphone camera and a dark and dingy wet day don't help.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

After shaping the bottom figure,I decided to relieve the back of the carving.This lended to a more 3d appearance allowing me to open up the area between the legs.
 
Since taking these pics,the carving has been separated from the stock and has had a thin coat of yellow ochre acrylic.The reasoning behind this is that the wood I use for carving is far too yellow for this model.The carving would not blend with other boxwood the hull is planked with. I hope that after applying a coat of poly it will blend better.If not,it is small enough to strip and try again to find a suitable method.If I get this right,it means I can use the cast wreaths around the gunports.These are good quality from a detail point of view and a better alternative to carving 22 identical ones!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Puse todas las uñas ...

una prueba. bien a la primera

do not. I'm doing a 1/24 scale.
some progress

Rochefort will begin.  
short all the frames and keel.  
 

 

Continually amazed by your attention to detail Michael You do know the museum model is 1/10 and you are working at 1/75
 
Have you tried annealing the brass eyelets first?they will be work hardened from the stamping process.This should stop the tearing
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
Another “bit” work in progress post
 
Added the last four foremast stay ropes Pic 1
 

 
PS: I missed those before attaching the lower foremastmast cap. Noticed these four ropes and pulleys were still needed Grrrr. Had to unglue (without breaking) the cap so as to properly install those hanging ropes,
 
Now I’ve (finally) attached and glued into place the foremast. Ok moving forward J Pic 2
 

 
Then noticed that these 4 mast stay ropes work with blocks/pulleys that attach to the two chainplate rings on each side with hooks.
 
OK - but then I also saw that the 1/1 and the 1/10th have metal rings that attach to the hooks wrapped in rope then to each of the lower 4 blocks. Pic 3 & 4
 

 
Wanted to add these rings as well. So here is my first attempt. Once I get the hang of it these rings will be easier to add and incorporate as needed.
 
STEPS:
 
Pic 5: purchased these eyelets at Amazon

 
Pic 6: Also bought aluminum and brass tubing

 
Pics 7 & 8: First attempt (with the eyelet). Inserted a nail and cut the eyelet to size needed.

 
Pic 9: Used a small pin punch to “re-round the cut bit
 

Pic 10: Now used a wide punch with hammer taps to flare the newly cut end (Amazon purchase)
 

 
Pic 11: Gave it a “look”
 

 
 
Pic 12: Now deciding between brass eyelets or aluminum. A few attempts to flare the brass eyelets resulted in rips along the side. Aluminum being much softer it tends to stretch and flare out much more nicely. Intent is to have an inner ridge so the rope loop stays put. That said the front face of the eyelets sure look perfect.
 

 
Pic 13: Now the hooks becomes the problem, Could not attach rings to these two pre-made hook types that I had available.
 

 
Pics 14 & 15: so made some up.
 

 
Last pic; this might just work out ok, after a few more sample efforts and then some flat black paint.
 

 
Again thanks so much for you visits and thoughts.
 
Cheers,
 
Michael
 
PS 2 Finally figured out how to add pics as I go along with notes Gee wizz took 2 years ha ha
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Nigel. I hope to see you back at your SOS soon.
 
Regards,
Bill

Excellent work Ian
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

It is fantastic to see you back in the shipyard Bill.I have had along break from my build due to new job and finally selling and moving house.This ship isn't one I can pick up and do an odd hour here and there,it is just so time absorbing.
One of the great things about this vessel is that unless you build a kit OOTB then there is so much choice due to personal interpretation of the reference material.
I look forward to seeing more,it may also give me the push I need to revisit mine.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

It is fantastic to see you back in the shipyard Bill.I have had along break from my build due to new job and finally selling and moving house.This ship isn't one I can pick up and do an odd hour here and there,it is just so time absorbing.
One of the great things about this vessel is that unless you build a kit OOTB then there is so much choice due to personal interpretation of the reference material.
I look forward to seeing more,it may also give me the push I need to revisit mine.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Excellent work Ian
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks for stopping by and for the kind words Elijah and Greg!  Thanks as always to all for the likes  .
 
Carl, I can only say after getting inkjet ink all over my hands as I picked up the print out, I rather wish I had a laser jet as well! I am lucky as my local Kinko's is pretty close!
 
So, a little more progress this week as the stern framing is now completed.  Framing the four ports was an exercise in patience. Even with the transparent template to help me, keeping the sills and lintels completely level was hard due to the complex transom curves so I had a couple of redos on this bit!  Adding the vertical frames for the ports once the sills and lintels were in was a matter of just using the template as the stern timbers are not vertical so aren't a good reference.
 
Fairing was done while the framing of the ports was in progress and you can see the fairing edge hitting the pencil line I drew using the template in one shot.  Last job was to add and fair in some balsa wood blocks under the counter and along the stern post to add gluing area for the planking to come. Hopefully things are OK, but as always, I'd appreciate any help if something looks off.
 
Next up will be adding the false deck, but as I will fully rig her, I have to drill holes into the bulkhead former to support the masts first. There are no slots already pre-cut of course as the model is designed with stump masts. So...time to dig out the Crothers plans and the protractor to make sure I get the mast angles correct.
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Thank you so much for the encouragement Sjors. It will be an honour to have you follow my build. Indeed I wish I had done 20 ships because I am not sure whether this one will ever end! But this has to be the most relaxing thing to do in the world. Thanks to you as well Heinz my friend and for the likes Mark and Cabbie and others.
 
I just a short update. I've finished the main wale on the starboard side and half through the main wale on the port side which I will now revisit. I will finish up the anchor stock on the main wale then make another jig for the top and butt planks (tail is three times as long as head in triangle) for the middle wales - as Longridge calls for.
 
Heinz, the jig actually worked out quite well, that's not to say I didn't have to do a little modifying here and there but all told, I think worthwhile. 
 
Best, Ian