bdgiantman2

I must say, Patrick, not only is Shadow looking increasingly great, you know how to give one heck of a challenge! Keep up the great modeling
 
Brian

I must say, Patrick, not only is Shadow looking increasingly great, you know how to give one heck of a challenge! Keep up the great modeling
 
Brian

Hi folks
 
I haven't had much time to devote to Shadow over the past few weeks, so... progress has been pretty slow.
 
A very quick update:  So far, I've only managed to set out the bulkheads on the Sun Deck's accommodation and the tender garage below decks.  I know it all looks pretty rough at this early stage, but at least it's a start.
 
All the best for 2017, everyone!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

After building a working base for handling I started on the drive assembly. First I cut the parts for the bearing support for the drive shaft.
 

 

 
I also cut and assembled the rudder with a 5/32" shaft incorporating a pivoting stop pinned to the top of the shaft. The completed rudder with bearing press fitted into hull.
 

 
Then came my first attempt at a propeller. Not being familiar at all with propellers or having the real one for reference I did some research and checking with the maritime people and we settled on a three bladed design that was common for the period for this style of working boat.
 
Here is a sequence showing the build process. The blade spins by hand and the rudder turns.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now to make the two different sizes and types of cleats and lights. 

3d

Got tired of ratlines so I ran some running rigging.
 

Great looking model, Toni, she is looking sharper and more realistic. The stern quarters looks absolutely fantastic. May I ask what you are using for your windows on your model?
 
Brian

Great looking model, Toni, she is looking sharper and more realistic. The stern quarters looks absolutely fantastic. May I ask what you are using for your windows on your model?
 
Brian

I have been busy with the grand kids and working on the small accessories on the lathe making parts for them.
Here is the bow anchor chain guide for lack of a better word.
 
 
 
I also made the engine exhaust with a 3/8" diameter tube.
 

 
I also reworked the sliding door handle with the proper wood one.
 

 
I then moved onto the handrails that attach to the sides of the bridge. First six identical stanchions had to be turned on the lathe. This is where the precision of the Sherline comes into play.
 

 

 

 

 
Next I made the cabin vents using both copper and brass parts soldered together. I 1/4" diameter copper hemispheres were made using my wife's dapping block.
 

 

 

 

 
I then started on the boat bell that will mount of the forward angled bridge wall. Here is the bell with the integrated sling mount drilled with a 1/32" hole to attach to the hanging bracket. 
 

 
Happy New Year to all builders around the world!
 
 

John, Patrick thank you! Yesterday I learned that the Dirty Dozen was used in the 1977 Disney movie "Sultan and the Rock Star" will have to check it out.
 
Here is a sequence of fabricating the dive ladder that stored along the deck rail and then folded down and pivoted into the water. This ladder was salvaged and will be part of the display in the museum.
 
The challenge was getting a tight fit on the pivot bracket to keep the ladder parallel to the deck when stored.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now to the chain bracket on the bow.

I got back to working with brass and made the porthole windows and Danford anchor and turned the hawse rope holder. I decided since this is a display model that there was no need to make these working porthole windows which on the real boat opened inward. Here is a sequence explaining the porthole building process starting with 1/32" sheet.
 

 

 
The shoulder rim will support the glass window.
 

 

 

 

 
Here is the articulating anchor. The copper chain started with round links which I carefully squeezed with needle nose pliers into elongated oval links to look more realistic.
 

 

 
Next I will move onto the ladder and it's support brackets.

Built up the top hatch cover which is two parts hinged together; the forward part has the sliding rails indexed into tracks on the cabin top and the aft part lifts up and both slide back in the mahogany tracks.
 

 

 
I then moved on to cutting the gauge bezels out of aluminum. The tachometer is 7/16" diameter, the Total hours 5/16" diameter with the rest of the gauges 1/8" diameter. All were polished with metal polish on a Q-tip and buffed with a rag before being cut down ot the parent locating pin.
 

 
Here they are in place on the dashboard. 
 

 
I then worked on the forward deck items that are all mahogany. More to be added like the chain box lid and hawse.
 

 
Here is an overall view with the engine hatch open.
 

 
Yesterday I had a meeting with the president of the Maritime Museum and we went to the boat yard photographed and measured the rudder. Now I can draw it up and add to the plans.
 
Now back to work.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Merry Christmas to you, Dennis! You have quite the fishing boat fleet. Nice detailing on all of your models. Enjoy following your blogs.

I redid the front of the cannon and some other decoration:

 

 

 

 

 

I decided to add the seat blocks as separate parts that can be removed to facilitate painting in the bridge area. After building them up I added indexing blocks on the deck for their locations once painting is completed. The starboard seat structure is also the battery box, hence the vent holes. I will add the 2" thick seat cushions later on down the road.
 
I then reinforced the top horizontal surface of the bridge for the dashboard to align with. Notches were cut in the side wall braces to allow fitting of the dashboard against the side walls. The dash is indexed in and press fits into place. I located the centers of all the instruments and then clear coated the mahogany dash. I will turn the instrument bezels later using aluminum.
 

 
I then cut the edges of 1/8" wood stock to form the tracks for the sliding hatch door. Originally I thought this hinged, but after studying the photos I realized I was wrong and that it was a sliding door. Once finished up the top and bottom rails were glued in place while the vertical stop is pinned to be removed for door to be put in place. I added the handle just for testing and can be removed to paint the door.
 

 
Next I worked back and forth adding coaming and covers for the access panels and built up the framing for the the engine compartment that is hinged on the port side. Both the front and rear are open for air flow. The bracing was needed to carry the weight of people walking on them. All the work deck surfaces were coated with a non skid material/paint.
 
 
 
Here are a couple of overall views.
 

 

 
Next I will finish up the top hinged sliding door for the hatch that indexes with the sliding door. The slide rails are mahogany. I will need to find a source for small piano hinge for the hatch door. I assume that the first section lifts up and the second section slides back to open while maintaining a water resistant seal. Here is a picture of it showing the piano hinge.
 

 
Merry Christmas to all!

Merry Christmas to you, Dennis! You have quite the fishing boat fleet. Nice detailing on all of your models. Enjoy following your blogs.

I added the cabin roof once dry and set then moved onto the bridge structure which required some edge mating to have both a clean exterior and interior. The challenge was matching the curves and bends.
 

 

 
While waiting for glue to set on the bridge walls, I added inside curves to the work deck corners. I also spent time studying photographs and realized that I needed to narrow the hatchway door opening for the sliding door to work and that the two side access panels were too long and wide and reworked them as needed.
 

 
Here is an inside view of the bridge work showing the inside clearance area at the top for the dashboard with gauges to come.
 

 
Next to add the coaming, seats and compartment covers.
 

So one of the items I have undertaken recently in building my Yacht Mary are the futtocks that go between the main ribs of the hull. This is because I am attempting to make this model admiralty style. Merry Christmas to all and wishing you all safe construction with smooth sailing.

Merry Christmas to you, Dennis! You have quite the fishing boat fleet. Nice detailing on all of your models. Enjoy following your blogs.

Merry Christmas to you, Dennis! You have quite the fishing boat fleet. Nice detailing on all of your models. Enjoy following your blogs.

Merry Christmas to you, Dennis! You have quite the fishing boat fleet. Nice detailing on all of your models. Enjoy following your blogs.

Just catching up with what you're up to, Ken - she looks really first class.
 
John

Your model is turning out beautiful, I have enjoyed following this blog. I seriously once drew up a boat similar to how yours is looking, but only drew the side view. Would you be willing to sell a set of plans? For how much if you do sell the plans?
 
Brian

Ken, thank you! I had a Deja-Vu moment when working with the card stock back to about thirty years ago BC (before computers) I used these techniques while building RC airplanes for my son. The system still works well for me. I know if I built a 3D computer model in a program like SolidWorks I probably could print out a lay flat pattern; but with my computer skills I probably would still be at the computer building the 3D model.
 
Yesterday I added the anchor guide mounting brace which on the real boat had concave curves blending into the deck rails.
 

 

 
I finished up the cabin area by gluing pieces together for the roof. I also added a center lateral cross brace to defining the roof line and providing an additional glue surface for the roof since more structure will be added on top of the roof. Once all the fussing and blending was done I then painted the inside cabin surfaces black. This way rather than paint window surfaces black I can add more depth with clear windows. Painting these is much easier to do before the roof is glued in place.
While waiting for paint to dry I cut out the large engine compartment and added the raised edges that prevented the water from flowing into the engine compartment. I am sure that there is a name for them. But I added then for increased strength before cutting out the smaller compartments. I also cut the round port hole window in the front cabin wall.
 

 
Lastly, I added the wet roof to dry over night to the cabin to set the crown in it.
 

 

Your model is turning out beautiful, I have enjoyed following this blog. I seriously once drew up a boat similar to how yours is looking, but only drew the side view. Would you be willing to sell a set of plans? For how much if you do sell the plans?
 
Brian