Landrotten Highlander

Soon I believe, I will be able to begin the last carvings.

Thank you friends!!
 
Crane anchor:
   

 

 

 

Work progresses on the forecastle framing and installing the catheads.  There are two 9" sheaves in the cathead.  These were made by drilling a series of holes along the length of the sheave opening perpendicular to the water line and then connecting the holes with an 11 blade.  The sheaves were made from round brass stock, cut off on the Preac saw.  These were then drilled for a pin.  The cathead was also drilled and after blackening the sheaves and pin was inserted.
 
The cathead was inserted under the third beam and glued into place.  Then the second beam with its associated knees were installed.  Bolts were inserted through the two beams into the cathead.  The first beam was then installed.  Finally, the knee between the first and second beams was installed.  This was initially fabricated as one piece.  With the cathead in place, the middle portion of the knee was removed for a snug fit.  Carlings were inserted between the deck clamp and the first beam to support the bowsprit partner.  Mortises were made for the half hook laterally and the partner medially.  Finally, the half hoods and partner were installed.
 
I have been practicing carving the cap for the cathead.  Let us just say that it is a work in progress...
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

I am having trouble uploading today, so this weeks work will come in several installments...  I am also having difficulty doing a narrative under each photo,
 
I am now all the way thru frame 4 as shown in the first photo.  The Keelson Knee is just shown fitted in place for now. 
 
The third photo highlights frames 4 and 5.  Note the notching of the chock on frame 4 that still needs to take place. I forgot to do this at the bench...
 
The top timber of frame 5 has a significant slant.  While this may look like an error, its actually to spec.  The slant allows room for a sweep port to be inserted.  There are many intentional irregularities with this ship that are historically accurate.  This is significant departure for me since I have built stylized models in the past that appeal to symmetry.  I now prefer the historically accurate models.  Interesting how our tastes and opinions on things evolve over time...
 
The last photo should actually be the first photo.  the forward frames are just sitting in place, awaiting spacers, final fitting and glue up.
 
The assembly line style of building the frames is certainly not for everyone, but it has greatly improved my efficiency and quality. 
 
You will also note the cross spauls that have been reinstalled.  This is a must in order to keep the shape.
 
As mentioned, I am bringing this ship to NRG in October (As well as my USB Eagle, also a scratch build in progress).  My goal with Naiad is to have the framing completed and faired, along with ribands, keelson, and chock bolts inserted. I estimate that will take me about 110 hours.
 
Best, G
 
 

Hello

A little update...
I'm working on gunport lids and hinges... so far portside is done. Starboard still not

Silversolder as usually... after soldering I've done some etching on hinges in iron (III) chloride and after that blackening in JAX solution. 
 

 

 

 
Cheers
Matt

Thank you, very much, friends!!
 
A small coat of matte varnish:

 
 
completion of the gun deck with hatches:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello,
 
Sorry for the lapse in updating the build.  The last two weeks have been plagued by a series of minor emergencies that have been keeping me pretty busy.  On top of everything, the motherboard on my 12 year old computer finally gave out.  With no CAM program, the mill has been sitting idle for two weeks.  I now have a "new" 6 year old computer and I think I've finally tracked down all the software I had before.  Back in business!
 
I've finished most of the planking of the boiler deck and have started on the construction of the deckhouse.
 
Steam scapepipe in place. 

 

 
Posts going in.  These were the only posts notched over the deck beams.  The rest will be lightly notched into the cap.

 
Top plate installed.

 
Intermediate posts to frame the windows.

 

 

 

 

 
I decided not to run the deck planking all the way forward at this time.  Instead I placed a lateral cap across the deck.  This brings the deck up to the same height around the entire circumference of the structure making the side planking a little neater.  It also allows me to hold off on installing the chimneys.  I'm still trying to figure out the transition.  I have to hold off on planking the side walkways as well.  The curved tops of the paddleboxes will have to go in first but, these can't be added until the sides of the deckhouse are planked.  I'll complete all this next week.

 
Final photo of Fridays progress.  Lowest four strakes of side planking in place. 

 
 
 
 

Hello,
 
many thanks for your likes and comments. Today I finished the barge and set it to the Dragon into her showcase. After the motto: the captain would go from board and his barge is ready.
 

 

 

 

 
And here all is closed and ready
 

 
All in all it was a fun to build this little boat and I think it would't be the last I Build.

Thank you Carl,
 
In the last 2 weeks, I did some research about straight edge razor and sharpening. The single most important thing I learned is that if sharpening is the first step; polishing is the final step to optimize the sharpening one notch over. By opposition to a scraper where the edge is sharpened perpendicular to the blade and the bur is left there .
 
Stones are use to repair, sharpen and set the bevel which create the edge. They come in a variety of materials including diamond,  japanese waterstones, and ceramics. Grain varies from very coarse grain (100 micron), to a fine grain #100 (15 micron) factory edges on knives, to a near mirror polish #8000 waterstone (3 micron) to a mirror polish with diamond paste #60,000 (,5 micron) , 100,000 (,25 micron).
 
 One of the sharpest knives  available is a straight edge razor used by barber. King cutter would be one of the best kind. By example he uses watersones up to 8000 to complete the sharpening  and for the finish,  he uses a leather strop (horse leather is a very good choice), not intended to remove material but rather to accomplish a re-alignment of the indentations of the blade. Both sides of the blade are passed  successively left and right because it is important to have 2 similar sides.
 The strop can also be used for knives with 2  cutting side. Unfortunately the leather strop is not intended for carving knives. The rough sharpening can be done uo to a #8000 watersone, but the finishing is different. Polishing the edge will mean that the surface will slide in an easier way. To achieve a mirror finish we use a wheel made from cotton or felt. To optimize  the finish a green paste like the one from Lee Valley  can increase a mirror finish  up to ,5 micron.
 
Here is an idea for a good combination for hand sharpening;
 Watersones in a pyramid of  #1000, #3000 and #8000 plus a truing stone  to have a perfect flat stone (waterstones are more tender than the standard grey stone we are use to see and also a true surface will give better results). You could go  up to 16,000 but the difference would not be much significant.  And for the finishing a felt wheel + green compound to get a mirror finish.

Thanks Maury
 
Here are some photos with her all cleaned up and the inboard frames faired and thinned down.  I had to clean it up because I couldnt stand looking at it so messy.
 

 

Hi All!
 
304 hours into the journey and feeling good!
 
The photo below is not a pile of sticks to be played with like one of my powder monkey's thought.  They are the remaining 256 framing pieces awaiting shipment to the shipyard.  Prior to yard assembly, they will go through a quality check, drum sanding (my grizzly spindle sander arrives tomorrow), filing of the chock joints, and squaring of the ends.  I will remake any framing piece that does not pass muster. I will then organize them in zip lock backs and place them in a plastic file bin, along with thier template, pattern, and chocks while they wait for assembly. There will be another quality check after assembly, prior to installation.
 
My back of the envelope calculation is that there are about 1000 frame pieces, 550 chocks, and 50 keel/stem/stern assembly pieces at this point in the build.  I estimate that I will have a roughed in hull at 400 hours.  Not a bad way to spend 400 hours, if you ask me.
 

 
I hope to see another build of this ship on the forum in the near future.  It has been an amazing journey thus far.  I have seen my knowledge of ship design expand exponentially, my scroll saw skills are now dialed in and my enthusiasm is as strong as ever.  While personal results may varry, if you are looking to up your game, this is a ship to consider!
Best, G

Hello,
 
it is done. The barge is more or less ready and when I think it over, I could build more of them. But now the last pictures. 
 

 

 
There is a rule of thumb with the oars I found out. 1/3 of the oar is in the boat and 2/3 outside. The square part is fully inside, it is the counterweight for the outside part. The point of balance is shortly outside of the boat. For modern oars they say 30 cm. So the oar would fall alone in the water, but you need not much power to get it out. That means also, that the oars have all more or less a different length at each position. You could see that also at many of the old models. A good example is the model SLR0578.
 
I'm sorry Druxey, but for your barge you need the girls (?) of the Russian shot putter national team. But with them on board, the barge would go only in one direction, downwards 
 
Because I would set the barge to the Dragon, I tried some position of the oars. But at least I have to take all oars in I think, because of space.
 

 

 

A milestone is reached....the frame centers were removed.
 
This is easy to do but you must be careful and use a slow and light touch.  File the little tabs on the port and starboard sides to release the top of the frame centers.
 

 
Then carefully bend the frame center til the little tabs break down below releasing the centers.  BUT....its important to bend towards the floors on these two piece frames.  That eliminates any tear out on the floors and futtocks.  The tear out will happen on the frame centers instead which is what you want.
 

 
And this is what it looks like immediately after finishing.  It always looks messy but after a bit of clean-up and fairing inboard, it should look pretty good.  This is the most delicate stage of the build.  The hull is pretty sturdy but until the footwales/floorboards and platforms are in...its best to be careful.  Fairing inboard requires a slow, gentle yet deliberate sanding to reduce the thickness of the frames significantly.
 
Chuck
 

placement test
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello,
 
thank you for your kind words, Mark and Nils. Mark, when I understand the descriptions of the NMM right, then an admiral would have twelve oarsmen and how the barge would be equipped was up to the captain or admiral and how much he was willing to spend. 
 
The oars are more work then first expected. But I hope to get ready with them tomorrow. Yesterday I build two masts and sprits for two spritsails and installed them today.
 

Thanks,  I removed the base holding the frames in position.  Each piece came free really nice with a little wiggle.  Then rather than throw it away....I used some scrap wood and now its a work-base.  I wont remove the frame centers until the transom is positioned.  But first I must carve the inside decoration.  This is the Queen Anne monogram that goes on the inboard side of the flying transom.  In the photo above you can also see the flying transom being temporarily tested.  It fits well.
 

 
Then I will glue it into position permanently.  The flying transom and decoration are made from boxwood.
 
The carving you see is just 1/32" thick.  Anything more would be too thick.  So we shall see how it goes.  I havent started carving it yet and just placing it on the flying transom it looks pretty good.  I hope I dont make a mess of it.
 
Chuck

Another photos 
 

     

Blocks on mediaeval ships were somewhat different to those we are used to on later vessels. For example this is my concept of a double block with the pulleys set in-line instead of side-by-side
 

 
I have installed the backstays first while holding the mast with temporary forestays much as seen in the Trombetta illustration. This sketch I believe was made while the mast was being set up.
 
this shows the use of hearts for the backstays
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers
Dick

Hello,
 
sorry for delay with updates, I was bussy with new job and nearly no time for modelling... have not much time to work at the Sphynx, so here only few images showing last changes.
 
Last beams and carlings on forecastle and the door at kooking plase:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Then glued inboard planks on the taffrail, and last strake at the f'caslte bulkhead:
 

 

 

 

 
Mounted all Cannons, glued waterweys and margin plank on f'castle:
 

 

 

 

 
Gratings and coaming are dry fitted now
 
Alex

Hello again,
 
First I had to build a scabbard for a small sword for a friend and afterwards I took my cold. If you did't take your cold in wintertime, you had to take it in July 
 
But now I'm back at the ship yard. The last two days I worked on a seat cushion for the captain. Captains are not used to sit on hard wood, so I had to do it 
 

 
Also new is the gangplank and the two hooks. I don't know the exactly name for these.
 

 
The next things to build are the oars. 
 
 

Hello Everyone,
I like the concept that Chuck is trying to get started in regards to group projects, be they small or large. One idea that I've been mulling over in my mind would be a group projected dedicated to carvings of Viking longboat prows. I've come across many pictures on the internet and it has stirred my imagination into incorporating it as a side project. Now the prow can be as large as one would want to tackle it. One must ensure that they do show updates and what carving techniques they are using. While at a larger scale, it will give people the opportunity to start practicing their carving techniques in the event they may want to try their hands at a carved ship's figurehead.
Attached are a few photos of what I am talking about in the event it stirs curiosity in fellow ship builders.
 
 

This is only the first attempt: I should be much more precise with the measurements

 

 

 

 

 

turning the guns:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now comes a scary part, cutting a hole into the hull.  Mark the location for the hole based on the plan.  Since the port side is fully planked I had to cut out a segment of the frieze and some of the molding.  On the starboard side I removed a piece of ribband and one frame top.  Once the cathead is installed, I will replace that frame top and secure it with filler pieces on either side.  The cathead is inserted at an angle so the opening is directed downwards.
 

 

 

 
Referring back to the plan, note the angle that the cathead takes, insert it into the hole in the hull and place it under the third beam.  Mark the beam location on the cathead and cut out the mortise in the cathead.  Replace the cathead and temporarily place the second beam assembly on the deck clamp.  Mark this beam location on the cathead and cut the mortise for this beam as well.  
 

 

 

 
On my ship, possibly because of my previous measurement errors, the cathead crosses very close to the deck clamp.  As a result I needed to notch both the first beam and the under surface of the cathead to get it into place.  The unexpected benefit of this is that it locks everything securely into place.  With the cathead secured, the outboard face was sanded to make it perpendicular to the water line.  All the exposed edges were chamfered and the aft end was smoothed over, following the angle of the third beam.  Still to go are the holes for the sheaves, the sheaves themselves and the decorative cap.
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I will try and demonstrate how I made the cathead.  Sorry for the picture quality but I was more interested in showing the technique than in cleaning up the model after each step.
 
I went to the plan to determine the length and lateral bend of the cathead.  TFFM has an excellent drawing of the upward angle.  Because of the size of wood available to me I decided to transfer the drawing from TFFM onto a piece of 0.375 wood and cut this out on the scroll saw.  I cut this overlong for final sizing later.
 

 

 

 
 After that was done, I drew the lateral bend from the plan onto the blank.  Please remember, these are mirror images of each other.  As you can see, the port is cathead is already notched for the beams.  My goal was to make them as similar to each other as possible.