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Tiger65

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  1. I finished the second side of the hull. The entire planking process is now complete and I have begun to add the tree nails using the pencil technique. I am using a tape guide since I did not do this a plank at a time. After much sanding and some filling I have used wipe-on poly on the exterior and moved to the interior. Cutting out the center of the frames has been quicker and easier than I had anticipated. I used the x-acto saw blade for the work. Now much more sanding is ahead. The interior sanded and poly applied. I taped the frames for painting---with fairly disastrous result. Since I was using acrylic paint over the poly service, I was able to repair the damage to a large extent. Here is the cleaned up interior. At this point I have decided I am not satisfied with my whole planking exercise. I have ordered and received a new set of the laser-cut sheets for the keel and frames from Model Shipways and I am going to start over on the framing and planking. This will take a couple of months but in the end I will have two versions of the work to choose from. A quick word in support of Model Shipways. I emailed them on a Monday morning—using the email address on their website--asking for the four replacement sheets and offering to pay for the sheets and the shipping. I received the sheets by mail on Thursday at no charge. I think this is exceptional customer service and has certainly made me believer in Model Shipways/Model Expo. I will choose them in the future for my modeling needs if they have the items I require. I will pick up this log after I get back to this point with my new version of the planked hull.
  2. I spent much time and frustration trying different bending techniques for the hull planking. I also lost some time to getting a new desk and reorganizing my modeling work area. However, after looking at Arthur Wayne’s build log on this kit I decided to follow his approach to planking and cut the planks from sheet wood. I removed some of my old work and set to using the scotch tape patterning approach. I have been using one additional step, transferring the tape a heavy card stock and cutting the pattern on that. That has allowed me to check the pattern before cutting the wood. This is probably an unnecessary step but it has allowed me to remake pieces I wasn’t satisfied with. Also I continued to soak the planks to get the proper bend at the bow. I have finished one side and done some sanding on it. It turned out much better than my original approach using the strip wood as called for in the kit instructions. It still is not up to Arthur’s work, which appears to me to be the gold standard for planking this kit, especially if your name is not Chuck or Kurt. I have concluded that I will not stain the middle part of the hull as shown in the kit photos because I will still need filler in some of the joints and seams. I will look around for other longboat paint schemes. However, I have a long time to consider this issue. I am working on the second side of the hull and hope to pick up speed with practice. A couple of these joints in the replaced areas are not as good as I had hoped but fill and sanding will have to do.
  3. I am so glad to see another log on this model. I have been completely stymied for several weeks trying to do an adequate job of planking using the 1/16x1/4 strips. I struggled though the lower planks and thought the uppers would be easier. The bow double curve was impossible for me to accomplish. I tried heat, water, ammonia and all combinations of them and could not get the bends to form properly. The instructions make this look so easy and completely ignore the problem of getting the planks to lay flat on the bulkheads. I have made one practice bow strip following your approach. It's not there yet but it shows that spiling is by far the best way to get a good result. I will be removing much of what I have already done in order to get a much better end product. Thanks for the detailed views and I look forward to following the rest of your build.
  4. Ok, I removed the two strakes above the garboard and reworked them, Still not perfect but better. I tried Arthur's technique with CA glue but I didn't have good results. I use the Loctite Super Glue and held it in place for more than 30 seconds. Unfortunately when I moved to the next portion and put some pressure on the stake the first glue area separated. Probably my mistake but I went back to wood glue. It is more forgiving with set up time and removes easily with Alcohol. Anyway, I moving forward with the sheer.
  5. Paul and Arthur, I appreciate your comments and you make good points. What frustrates me is that I did bevel and I did soak and form, even used some heat. I did not spile or make planks from sheet stock because the instructions clearly indicated that edge bending of the supplied materal was all that was necessary. Based on results I agree that they were wrong and you guys are correct. I always tell tell my friends that these models would be quick if I only had to build them once.
  6. As usual my planking leaves a lot to be desired. The three following pictures show the first three sets of planks from the keel. I am not certain the curve on the bow end is correct and may lead to problems with the future planks. The most troubling area is at the stern end where the planks require a double curve to lay flat on the keel and begin the curve to the hull. I have not been able to get the planks to lay evenly against one another. One side is marginally better than the other but neither is perfect. I have removed and replaced these planks once and am reluctant to do again without a new approach. Unless someone has a better suggestion I plan to correct the area at where the lower plank is not tight against its neighbor but then just use sanding and filling to even out these planks.
  7. Bow fillers installed and first side faired (I think). I used the 1 1/8 inch emery board from the local cosmetic shop shown in the picture for the fairing. It spanned several frames at a time but was flexible enough to not put too much pressure on adjoining frame members. It was also easy enough to hold. The first apparent problem. While fairing the second side of the hull frames, one frame seemed too high and was not impacting the test plank at all. That frame had seemed ok on the first side but the other side was not where it should be. I decided to try to adjust it. That meant cutting the strongback and using alcohol on the glue. After removing it I worked on lowering it but also had to square it with the adjoin frames. After adjusting as best I could I re-glued and will hope for the best.
  8. In the next photo I have begun gluing the bulkheads. I have tried to square and level them, then clamp to the metal blocks. This shows the completed bulkheads with the strongback in place for gluing. The instructions indicated two 1/8 x ¼ pieces glued together but I used a single scrap piece of 1/8 x 3/8 that I had. While the instructions called for using rubber bands to make the proper bend I soaked the strip first and then used the rubber bands for the bend and let it dry before gluing.
  9. The first step is shaping the rabbit. Hopefully I have gotten close to the correct angle. The photo shows the keel and false keel being glued together. Most blogs have mentioned the weight for flatness but I found that, in addition, I needed clamps to hold the pieces tightly together. The pieces are placed on a glass desktop and weighted. Next photo shows the keel assembly in a simple building jig similar to many others in the various logs. Most of the builds I have seen have left the wood natural except for some wipe-on poly. I decided I wanted to try to add a little more depth without changing the whole look. I stained the frames and one side of the planking with Minwax Ipswich Pine. We’ll see how it turns out.
  10. Hello all. This is my first build log although I have built a few models previously. I am in no way in the league of many of the craftsmen that I see in this forum, so any thoughts or suggestions will be most welcome. This project is the 18th Century Armed Longboat by Model Shipways in 1:24 scale. I assume this model is basically a scaled up version of the early Longboat designed by Chuck. There are not many build logs for the armed version but the smaller version seems to be one of the most popular builds on the site. Hopefully you can point out any differences and steer me away from any major faults. Below is the typical photo of the box showing the build to be undertaken. I’m using this photo primarily to check my ability to add photos properly.
  11. Great idea. I will try this approach.
  12. Kurt, thanks for the pics and ideas. Sorry for the late response. I was part of the large group whose homes were flooded here in Houston so my modeling has been hit or miss lately.
  13. Wefalck, thanks for the info. As someone who has used band clamps and also models, I am sure your opinion is correct. I remain frustrated in finding ways to clamp on the compound curve/angles I run into.
  14. Has anyone found band clamps helpful in their modeling? They seem primarily used for picture frames and boxes. I continue to have trouble clamping some of the compound planking curves, particularly at the bow and stern. seems like a band clamp my help if it is not too heavy weight. I have not been building the more complex old sailing ships but more of the modern boats.
  15. What is the best way to apply stains? I am planning to use Minwax oil stains on a Philadelphia Gunboat. Traditionally on home projects I would wipe on the stains, let it set and then wipe off the excess and rub down. Many areas of a model, especially the interior, are not accessible for wiping and rubbing. Does everyone stain each individual piece before gluing?

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