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  1. Hey Tiger, have you started a new build yet?  If not, you might want to look at the Dusek models.  They look like good kits.  I am going to give a try at one of the Viking models as I am not really wanting to start a two or three year project.

  2. Thanks for all the positive comments. Paul, I am struggling with what's next. I really don't look forward to starting one of the big ships but I have done most of the smaller boats. Maybe some rum or grog will clarify things. Thanks again for the compliments.
  3. Ok, here's the finished product--or at least as finished as I can get it. Lots flaws but I won't point them out. Many thanks to Arthur Wayne and Dr. Ps. They were both ahead of me and I used much of their insight and copied many of their approaches. Thanks also to all who watched and commented.
  4. Thanks Arthur but I have ordered the 14mm's, based on your earlier post. I am somewhat disappointed in the kit details on this boat. MS missed several items, some of which I remember as: mis-naming some of the metal work, wrong size mast or wrong size mast accessories and wrong size rope. I haven't noticed these issues on other MS kits.
  5. Ok, I’ve pretty much finished the rigging but ran into several issues. First, I elected to use a 3/8 dowel for the mast. That simplified some of the fitment issues on the thwart and the iron strap. That seemed to work fine and mounting of the mast was straight forward. I used the kit chain plates and deadeyes. I sanded the blocks and deadeyes but probably did not work them as completely as some of the other builders have. I used the kit supplied black rope for the shrouds and seized them with the black thread. The You-tube video by J. Brent on seizing was very instructive and
  6. Looks good Sea Hoss. I am about at the same stage but continue to make blunders that set me back a few days. I need to post again soon. I enjoy having someone just ahead of me. Always a learning experience.
  7. Ok, I have made some progress although I have not posted to the log lately. The first picture shows the cap rail in place. I followed the lead of some others and did the cap rail as a single piece on each side. I think it gives a better look because I am never satisfied with the joints I am able to make in strips such as this. I had to remake the rails only once. The first set did not fall correctly on both the inside and outside of the frames. The bow portion is wide like the kit shows, perhaps even wider. I saw in a later post that the real version had a much narrower overhang at the
  8. Paul, great job! Following you and Arthur is a highly educational experience. I am not planning to make as many modifications as you made but your discussions of the basic build are most helpful. I continue to progress with my build and log. One step forward, one step back... However, you guys have certainly worked to reduce my number of necessary backward steps.
  9. Here is a photo of the seats in place but not glued. I remade the far side seat and also the rear seat with the transom board wider. As you can see from the photo I have installed the thwarts and the supports under them. I took the easy way out and made the supports with the drill press as a lathe. I also discovered the situation of the mast thwart cut out being larger than the mast. I am trying a different way to solve the problem. I had a piece of brass bar stock so I made a collar for the mast. The collar fills the gap in the thwart and allows the mast support bracket to be
  10. Paul, I did see your solution and I may do that. I am remaking one of the side seats to get rid of some of the gaps at the frames. If that goes well I may either remake the center seat or replace the board as you suggest.
  11. Thanks for the kind words on the pirogues. I made several for friends and family. Once I got the lumber dimensioned and jigs made, the assembly was pretty straight forward. Lots of sanding to smooth everything out. Here is where I came out on the seats. I cut the thwart around the frame to fill the space to the shortest seat and adjusted the other seat accordingly. There is a small gap at the rear of the center seat where I have a trim piece in place now. Nothing is glued yet so I may put a trim piece across the entire rear of the seat area or I may leave the gap as a hinge a
  12. Okay, I have recovered from the rebuild of my hull. I must say, after watching Arthur Wayne and Paul Schulze I don’t know why I am continuing with a log. They have provided tremendous guidance for building this kit and I am glad I’m far enough behind that I can follow their advice for each step of the process. I didn’t spend all of these months on this hull rebuild. I got distracted scratch building some pirogues from cypress. Finding and having the wood cut to size was a major issue since I don’t have a table saw or thickness sander. Also I had to devise several jigs and pro
  13. I finished the second side of the hull. The entire planking process is now complete and I have begun to add the tree nails using the pencil technique. I am using a tape guide since I did not do this a plank at a time. After much sanding and some filling I have used wipe-on poly on the exterior and moved to the interior. Cutting out the center of the frames has been quicker and easier than I had anticipated. I used the x-acto saw blade for the work. Now much more sanding is ahead. The interior sanded and poly applied. I taped the fra
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