lagrayjr

Build log part 83...
 
 
Update
 
Sprit and jib-boom sail, ready to capture the slightest breeze...
 
 
Nils
 
 

 
I put the braces on the sprit- and jib sail yards
 
 

 
the 8-hole saddle on the lower sprit boom, enables a little order to the many lines
 
 

 
looking like a ship now.....
 
 

 
only the foremast topgallant sail is still missing.....
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 117 – Poop Deck/Fancy Rail
 
In the first picture, the aft section of the margin plank is pinned in place against the tops of the stern timbers.
 

 
This piece has a hook scarph on each end.  The rudder post will be cut off later.  This picture also shows the framing of the boomkins and aft mooring bits.  In the next picture the next section of margin plank is being fitted to the hook scarph on the aft section and around the mooring bits.
 

 
In the next picture the poop margin planks have been fitted forward to the breast beam and the aft sections of fancy rail are pinned in place.
 

 
The fancy rail forms a cap over the stern timbers, deck margin plank and the top strakes of planking around the stern.  The coamings for the two skylights are pinned in place for fitting the head ledges.  In the next picture, the poop deck has been planked – leaving open areas to view the cabins underneath – and the skylight coamings are in place.
 

 
The fancy rail has again been pinned in place.  To keep water out of the cabin deck this had to be caulked inside and out.  To have sufficient overlap of the poop margin plank, it was made 15" wide – as on the forecastle.  I stepped these rails down to 12" along the main deck.
 
The next picture shows the painted parts of the fancy rail being installed.
 

 
The step down in breadth on the forward piece can just be seen at the break of the poop in this picture.  I spent quite a bit of time deciding how to handle this fancy rail width issue.  Most midship sections show a narrow rail – about 12" – but I finally decided this would not provide sufficient overlap of the poop and forecastle margin planks.  So, another one of those judgment decisions.
 
The next picture shows the fancy rail fully installed aft of midship. 
 

 
After painting, the sections were glued and pinned.  As the pins were removed, copper wired epoxied bolts were installed down into each toptimber to reinforce the attachment.  The bolts were filed off and the top of the rail received more finish painting.  And the next picture shows it at the bow. 
 

 
The last picture shows the model with the completed fancy rail. 
 

 
I have been looking forward for a long time to the capping off of those toptimbers.
 
Ed

@JesseLee
Thank you for the nice comment.
 
Breeching rope for the 18 - pounder
Here's another attempt to make the lashings with a brighter yarn. So it seems so that it works better with the brighter yarn.

Bye for now ...

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 116 – Bow Decoration
 
Young America's bow decoration is interesting for a number of reasons.  Each side is different.  Just aft of a billet decorated with greenery, the carved figures rest mostly on the waist planking and partially on the base of the billet.  There were no headboards, so it is not clear how these were mounted on the original ship – much less how to mount them on the model -  due to the angle between the two surfaces.  Also, unlike the gilded stern decoration, the figures at the bow were painted in natural colors.  All this, like many other aspects of the ship, is based on Bill Crothers research.
 
After some unsuccessful attempts to fashion a wood base in the angle, I finally decided to sculpt these as six separate pieces, then fit them together on the bow.
The first picture shows the initial figures, sculpted with MagicSculpt® on wax paper taped flat on the pattern sheet.
 

 
The figures are quite small.  The starboard side features a female figure – presumably Liberty – with a shield flanked by draped flags.  On the port side an American Eagle is substituted for the female figure.  Below is the sculpted female figure before any post-hardening refinement.  The points on the flag staffs are thumb tack points.
 

 
The next picture shows some refining of the sculpture using a very small chisel.
 

 
In the next picture the fragile greenery has been lifted off the waxed paper, laid on the billet and touched with a drop or three of thin CA.
 

 
 
Refinement of the greenery was done after being glued on.  In the next picture the three port figures have been fitted and glued on with CA.
 

 
The figures were set into soft sculpting material placed in the angle between the billet and the side, than pushed into a fit.  Some modification of the parts was needed for this.  The sculptures must leave clearance for the square bowsprit to slide in and out.  Excess material was removed.
 
After attachment, the figures were primed with thinned flat black enamel.  The entire hull was given one last coat of acrylic paint and the figures were painted using acrylic gouache.  The next picture shows the starboard decoration.
 

 
The next picture shows the port side.
 

 
The greenery is actually brighter with light highlights than shown in the photos.  The next picture, from dead ahead, shows both sides.  Photos like these and closer ones were very helpful in judging the paint job and suggesting improvements.  The model went back and forth a few times for these.
 

 
The acrylic gouache used for painting the figures dries dead flat, causing an almost two dimensional appearance in the photos – especially in the close ups.  I may give these a coat of semi-gloss medium, perhaps the acrylic sanding sealer I used over the stern lettering.
 
Speaking of that, I received the second order of dry transfers, so I was able to correct the letters that were photo shopped in the last post.  The last picture shows the repaired letters – unadulterated.
 

 
This picture was taken before the final repair on the C.  After repair the dry transfer letters were given a coat of diluted sanding sealer.   I am also quite happy with the final black finish on the hull – shown in this picture.
 
With all this work done, the lower framing was given a last coat of wax, so the model should not have to be inverted again, I hope.  This will allow me to get on with work on the upper deck – cabins, etc.
 
Ed

Thank you very much Bill.
 
When I began that build, I decided to use 100% cherry wood for many reasons. One of these  to show that decent results can be achieve for the body  and for the sculptures too. To always buy exotic wood can be pretty much expensive. More differents colors can be use, but in this build, which is the first time I try to use only 1 kind of wood. In Canada and the US, it is easy to get  cherry wood. Also among the local woods this is probably the more stable wood we have.
 
Here are some results for the dolphins. Eyes are glued. Scales are still to be done.
2 sides  are correctly shape and the union of the 2 sides is done with a curve.
 
This is an interesting work requiring concentration, where you need to take your time to enjoy the work. To facilitate the work you must work within the capacity of the tool and do not try to overuse it. I like to finish  the parts with diamond bits, it works slowly but it is easier to control what you want to achieve.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 115 – Rudder, Miscellaneous
 
The first picture shows the last bit of work on the interior cabin deck detailing.
 

 
The curved seat/partition separates the cabin from the stern framing and leaves room for the rudder shaft.  All of this structural work aft of the partition will be hidden under poop decking.  As can be seen in a later picture, I decided to cover this rather austere seat with some upholstery.
 
With this in place the framing of the poop deck could be completed, including the fitting of the aft mooring bits and the boomkins shown in the next picture.
 

 
These are 12" x 12" timbers, tied together and into stout carlings that I reinforced with knees as shown.
 
The helm port was previously drilled through the framing but now had to be drilled through the bottom planking and sized for the 16" diameter rudder shaft.  After drilling a pilot hole, the center of the full hole could be set with a still wire through the gudgeons as shown below.
 

 
The hole was carefully enlarged with round files to fit the rudder.  The next picture shows the rudder hinges being fitted.
 

 
The gunstock shaped rudder rotates on the axis of the wire in the previous photo.  The top gudgeon has been added over the paint.  The hinges were fit one-at-a-time.  The masking tape is to keep the woodwork clean of metal dust.
 
The dry transfer stern lettering can be seen in this picture.  It is not yet finished.  The G, C and K need to be replaced and I am awaiting delivery of some more letters.  However, the picture below shows what it will look like.
 

 
I say what it "will" look like.  In the interest of full disclosure, I did a small amount of "photo shopping" on the three broken letters so I could use this picture.  Please excuse this.  The letters are quite small – 3/32" and 1/16".  When I get the replacement letters and successfully (hopefully) place them, the lettering will be sealed – probably with acrylic sanding sealer.  Right now they are easily scraped off.  I did a lot of that.
 
The next picture shows the fabrication of the iron rudder preventer in progress.
 

 
There are four parts – silver soldered.  It has rather long horns.  These have been rough shaped.  The strapping still has to be thinned down and drilled for bolts.
 
The blackened preventer can be seen below on the installed rudder.
 

 
The preventer was blackened with WinOx.  I have now disposed of all my remaining blue stuff in favor of this.
 
The rudder post in the next picture will be cut down later.
 

 
The mooring bits and boomkins are being shaped in this picture.  I found it easier to do this after installation – using rounded files.
 
The last picture shows the present state of the stern.
 

 
The poop deck is now ready for its two skylight coamings and decking.  Note that the portholes have been installed,   All of the work on the lower hull is now complete and it has been finished with wax.
 
Ed

........
 
          rekon54

Thank you too Nils, Frank, George and Pat.
 
Topsail Sheet Blocks
 
These are a Shoulder Block. The Lift blocks are seized to them as well. Here are a few pics of a carved sheet block :
 

 

 
My method of seizing the two blocks together. Note the gap in the strops to allow the lashing to pass through :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 Danny

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 114 – Cabins, Brass Sheathing
 
With the forecastle essentially complete, I returned to the interior of the cabin deck.  The first picture shows the cabins on both sides completed.
 

 
The poop deck framing has been installed back to the last cabins.  The curved wood block that will serve as the base for the circular seat and paneling is set in place.  This will close off the aft end of the cabin deck, separating it from the stern framing and the helm.  Note also that the double doorway into the cabin deck has been cut – once the poop framing was done.
 
I also started work on the main deck cabin.  The starboard fore and aft wall panel is being constructed in the next picture.
 

 
The panel was made first from individual planks.  It has to follow the sheer of the deck.  In the picture the 4X4 plate that will support the roof rafters is glued on and 4X4 studs are being attached.  The next picture shows the framed wall in place for a trial fit.
 

 
The doors and windows have been framed on the inside.  In the next picture they have been cut out.
 

 
The exterior walls will be white.  I will do this painting before fitting the natural wood framing of the doors and windows.
 
This has all been a nice diversion from the brass sheathing of the hull, but I did not want to proceed further with details on the main deck without finishing the lower hull to minimize the need to upending the model.  The next picture shows the stamping tool for embossing nails on the brass plates.
 

 
This was discussed in some previous posts.  The area on the right is used to stamp every plate.  The single row stamp to the left is used for the top dress course.  It needs a row of nails added at the top.
 
The plates are cemented down with contact cement, with the indentations up to simulate nails hammered into the plates.  These should more correctly be called sheets.  They were very thin.  Being nailed over a felt underlay would have left a decidedly quilted appearance.  In the next picture, a plate has been cemented and is being rolled down.
 

 
This improves the bond with the contact cement, presses down the edges, and flattens out the indentations.  Glue is applied to one plate and its place on the hull at a time.  This is necessary to have glue on the overlaps.  Excess cement that can be seen on installed plates in this picture is easily removed later.
 
The last picture shows this work completed.
 

 
The brass is very shiny.  It will dull with time, but I helped it along with some buffing with a Scotchbrite disc in a rotary tool – just enough to dull the glare a bit.
 
Work on the bottom framing can now be completed – adding any missing bolts, blackening the copper wire bolts, final poolishing and applying wax finish.  It may also be time for the stern lettering.
 
 
Ed

Hello,

the 14th carronade is meanwhile mounted.

COMPLETING 2D PARTS
 
 
Progression continues, 2D portion is now completed.  I tried to do it in 1 block. This way it is easier to have the same style in the carvings. To give a bigger volume to the 2D parts, many were cut in a thicker plank than require (especially the flowers) in a way, trying to make it look  bit more 3D than it is really.
 
Some parts were directly made from the plans, other were made according the place  on the exact place where i twill be install on the model. This way the parts fits before to be carved.
 
 Remaining sculptures  are 3D noted in red on the original drawings. On the first picture.
 
On the second picture, 4 pictures regrouped to give an idea of the progression of the construction; which is similar in many ways to a house : framing, walls, moldings and decoration on the other pics.
The third pic is to show how to work standing  having every thing at the good height.

I just received a copy of Comet of 1783 by David Antscherl over the weekend. To say the least the book is outstanding. What I found most interesting was David's detailed description of the fire room and how it works. I personally had no idea about a fire ship and am amazed at the complexity of the structure. David does not repeat what he has written in TheFullyFramed Model; however, the Comet does show the detail differences in a fire ship. In addition the book includes a very detailed description of building quarter galleries and the armament of the ship which is 18 pound carronades. These are not covered in the FFM books. This book is a must for  anyone who is interested in 18th-century British naval power. Congratulations David for another outstanding contribution to our literature. Laman

Thanks all for your very kind compliments and likes!
 
So time to get back inside the hull. All beams were cut to size previously and here they are test fitted with all the lower deck details temporary in  place. I'm not too pleased how the upper well discolored overtime. In the beginning I have used minwax  and it made the wood a bit greenish. I also need to check the dimensions of the louvers as they look a bit thick to my eye compared to the other details. Ah well I'll just make an other one in due time. 
 
 

 

 

 
Before I proceed to install the carlings and ledges I made the hammock battens, al bit of mass production as there are quite a few to be made of different sizes. Preliminary shape (the last bit is in front of the pile af battens) was made on the table saw and then the battens were cut to size and further refined using files and sandpaper. The drilling and installing of the tiny bolts (0,3 mm) took some time. The last step was to bend the longer battens to conform with the curving of the deck beams. The outer bolts will be installed when the battens are fixed permanently in place and will help to pin the battens to the deck beams.
 

 

 

 
 
Port side has been done starboard side is still in the clamping jig ...
 

 
 
 
 
Remco

The next parts will be under the balcony.
 
General height to work on a table is 30 inches. To work, especially on small parts, 30 inches is far from being ideal height, it is often too low; easy solution; adjustable height table, electric or by hand or even at lower price in the used. If I would have known before this is the kind of tool I would have  bought a lot sooner.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 104 – Planking and Wales continued
 
In the first picture the model has be uprighted and plumbed so the load waterline could be marked.
 

 
I needed to do this to set the extent of planking on each side.  The wood block is my gauge. 
 
This was also a good opportunity to mark out and bore the holes for the cabin lights as shown in the next photo.
 

 
The inboard finish planking was also installed and bored out.  I will show this later.  Brass tubes through to the interior will be added later.  The next picture shows the five openings on the starboard side.
 

 
Planking has progressed downward in this picture – below the bottom of the wale – but there is still more to be added. In the next picture the hull has again been inverted to complete the planking.
 

 
In this picture the aft planking is being stepped back with two strakes at each step on the starboard side.   This will permit several strakes of brass sheathing – each two planks wide to be wide to be installed later.  The sheathing band will extend to the edge of the lowest planks.  The top strake of sheathing will be on the waterline, with the strakes below parallel to the run of the planks and gored into the top strake.
 
On the port side there will be no sheathing and the planking will end higher to leave the framing exposed. 
 

 
This planking is stepped back higher up as shown again roughly parallel to the LWL – in single strake steps on this side.  Some planking is needed on this side so the deadeye chains can be fixed and also to provide a nicer view of the finished stern – at least from the starboard quarter.
 
In the next picture the hull has been uprighted again.
 

 
The planking of the starboard side shown is complete. The strakes below the 20 wale strakes diminish down from the wale thickness of 6” to the 4” thickness of the common bottom plank.  This transition is barely perceptible.  The top of the sheathing line can just be made out in this picture. 
 
I can’t explain why, but seeing this expanse of planking makes one realize just how large this ship was.  This was not as pronounced when the hull was in frame.
  
Ed

continue

Hello again all y'all.
 
I went to bed last night a little frustrated about them dumb oarlocks.  But as I was laying there waiting for Mr. Sandman to come, I was thinking about how to tackle them then - - - click - the light came on    I suddenly remembered how I did it with version 1.0.  When I told Gwen about it she asked my if I made notes of everything I do - - - - - - good question, ummm - - - no dear.  Her response?  "that's not smart, isn't it"?  No dear, but I figured it was going to be a one shot deal so no need for them stink'n notes    She didn't buy it, "it's still not a smart thing to do."
 
Okay, with all that straightened out I proceeded to make the oars first so so I can use them as part of the oarlock making procedure.  I again made them from wooden toothpicks and whittled them down to about 1 mm diameter, using first a sharp mini chisel and then through a draw plate with a final sanding.  Next I cut them to the same length as the v. 1.0 oars and cut a slit in one end for the blades.
 
I made the oarlocks from 0.2 mm brass shim strips cut to 1 mm wide, cut them to estimated lengths and drilled 0.5 mm holes in the center for the pins. They'l be trimmed later and final shaped
I used a small discarded piece of oar lock shaft as a mandril and bend these little strips around it into a U.  Then put the U shaped pieces on the mandril, clamped it in a mini cloth pin, which is then clamped in a mini vice and put a small piece of 0.5 mm brass rod in the hole.  Next it was just a case of soldering the pins to the oarlocks.  Everything worked so well that there was almost no extra cleaning up to do except for trimming them all to the proper length and make a slight bend to the ends.
 
For the oar blades I used some poplar and shaved a piece of waste planking down to 0.5 mm thick.  One end I tapered to a wedge and shoved it into the slit I made preciously in one end of the shaft.  I used CA to cement it together and stared to shape it into an oar blade.   I think they came out okay.  The oar shafts may have to be cut shorter but I'll sleep on that first.  
 
Okay, we are now on third base and batter is up!  
 
I couldn't resist painting everything dark grey before closing the shipyard for today.  Tomorrow I'll do the final inspection and some more sanding and whatever is needed.  It may need a final coat of paint before I'm satisfied.  Then I'll tie the oars to the seats and hang her in the loading boom on the O19!  
 
Here are the pics of today's activities.
 

This is my crude soldering jig.  The quality is not very good, at this magnification the pixels make it fuzzy.  Perhaps you can still see the brass oarlock with a pin inserted into the hole.  Hey, it worked!
 

Here are the completed oarlocks.  It looks like a lot of solder on it but in actuality there was not really that much and only a little filing took care of it.  You can also see the slight bends I made to the tips of the oarlocks? 
 

This is just an example pic of how I made the oars.  It was difficult to see the slits I made in the shafts so I stuck a #11 blade in it.  the one above t has the 0.5 mm "oar blade" already shoved into the slit.
 

 

 

 
Cheers,

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 101 – Planking and Wales
 
To conveniently work on the planking below the channels, the hull was inverted as shown in the first picture
 

 
The toptimbers are no longer as vulnerable with the planking installed up to the top so there is minimal risk of damage.  I still use carpet padding as a precaution and have tied the hull down to keep from pushing it off the bench.
 
The next picture shows some of the planking installed at the bow.
 

 
The hull is marked with pencil lines to show the extent of the wale and the load waterline.  I have highlighted the lower edge of the wale in red and the lwl in blue.
 
The wale is 6” thick and there are roughly 20 strakes of 6” wide planks from top to bottom.  The top strake transitions from the 4” common  to the 6” wale planking two strakes below the lower channels.  That break in thickness can be seen in these pictures.  The next picture is a close-up of the “hooding ends.”
 

 
The wale planks are pared down to match the depth of the rabbet.  The treenails are hard bamboo (old garden stakes) – very hard and very dark.  The grain flecks and the color variation in the maple planks is a bit distracting, but all of this planking will be painted.
 
The planking around the stern was done concurrently with that shown above. In the next picture the second strake below the planksheer rail has been curved and is clamped to dry.
 

 
Each of these is boiled for over an hour, clamped as shown below and left overnight to dry.  It can then be glued with a similar clamping arrangement.  This is really a one-step-per-day process.
 
The last picture shows the three strakes below the rail – levelled off but not yet finish sanded.
 

 
 
The next strake will be the transition strake to the wale thickness.  There may be one more circumferential strake  - at the "knuckle" - but the planks below will butt into the last of these.  The ends of the the planks below will bolt into the supporting chocks between the stern timbers.  The chock around the helm port has not yet been fitted.
 
Space is left for the main rail.   The area between this and the lower rail will be decorated with a bas-relief eagle and some s-curved vines.  The words “Young America” then “New York” will be lettered below the lower rail on these lower three planks..
 
  
Ed

Hello all, many thanks for warm words and comments!
 
not a big update,I have produced stanchions for the ladderway rails. The images are mostly self explanable, I hope
They are turned on Unimat from 1,5mm brass road. Then finished with steel whool on Dremel Tool. The rings are from 0,3mm brass, the rails from 0,4mm.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Finally installing around ladderway after blackening
 

 

 

 
Continue to work at Q-Deck beams, and how she look now.
 

 

 
Next step will be Capstan.
 
Regards
Alex

Thanks all.
 
Mark, for delicate enhancing of the joints I use a pencil, but to simulate tarring like the joints on  the rudder I use very thin paper (probably 0.1 mm thick). It comes in different colors but it's not water proof so I use the white one and tint it with a black Sharpy. All joints are lined on one side and after gluing the pieces together I used a plane to shape the rudder and trim the excess paper lining.
 
Meanwhile the metalwork on the rudder is continued, the pintles and spectacle plate are made from separate pieces silver soldered together. Piet, when all metal work is ready I will try to brown them (instead of blackening) 
 
Here they are temporary fitted
 

 

 

 

 

 
I noticed the hole for the tiller sits to close to the top of rudder, In need to make a little fix to lower it
I'm not sure how that happened......
 
Remco
 
 

I just received a copy of Comet of 1783 by David Antscherl over the weekend. To say the least the book is outstanding. What I found most interesting was David's detailed description of the fire room and how it works. I personally had no idea about a fire ship and am amazed at the complexity of the structure. David does not repeat what he has written in TheFullyFramed Model; however, the Comet does show the detail differences in a fire ship. In addition the book includes a very detailed description of building quarter galleries and the armament of the ship which is 18 pound carronades. These are not covered in the FFM books. This book is a must for  anyone who is interested in 18th-century British naval power. Congratulations David for another outstanding contribution to our literature. Laman

Hi Albert
 
...and what beautiful 'sawdust' it is, that you've created. Your Naiad looks brilliant so far. I'm definitely looking forward to following your progress.
 
All the best!

Hello,
today I want to show you how I have made the fittings for the ventilation hatches with portholes.
These vents are located on the lower deck, as can be seen in the following pictures.

 
The other images show step by step the process.

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Mark,
thanks for your kind words.
 
Here is a little update, with other metal fittings for the outboard walls of the French corvette.
I hope you enjoy the pictures.
This can happen sometimes.

 
Here's a look into my sorting box with various fittings.
In this case also the support for the anchor and the boat davits are seen.

 
Here you can see a scupper valves.

 
The eye bolts to mount outboard.

 
Drilling the bolt holes with a diameter of 0.3 mm drill is a very delicate affair. For one of these fittings 8 holes are to be performed.

 
Finally, an overview.

 

Hello,
  I will continue at the French corvette with the installation of the anchor supports on the larboard side. The anchor was initially placed only temporarily, to see if it fits.
Here I show you two photos: