lagrayjr

Soon I believe, I will be able to begin the last carvings.

Hello,
for the nice feedback I thank a lot.

Regarding the question of deadeyes, whether round or pear-shaped, I follow the recommendation of G. Delacroix.
Before the production I made a drawing. The basis for this was the Atlas du genie maritime and Atlas de Poulierie in 1855.


To make the deadeyes I need a few tools as seen in the following picture.

Another photos
 
     

Hi Albert,
thanks for the nice words.
 
The next detail I have made for the backstays. The lower blocks of
Shifting backstays were fitted with a hook, which was engaged in a ring bolt on the
Channel.This ring bolt has its own small chain plate.
This part was there 3 times per ship side.
Now to the production. I hope the pictures explain so far.

 

 

 

 

 
 

Wonderful as always. To have the patience to bring the model to this level of realism, well, that is something. And the results well pays off!
 
One question, not to the build but rather functionality of the real ship. Those two small guns aft look really strange: how were these positions accessed by the gunners? And yet, this "battle positions" look so unprotected compared with the main gun deck. I would not want to be the one standing on that opening during the fight ?

Hello,
about your nice hints and positive comments.
I am extremely happy.
Here we go on with the building report:
Further details have been installed, such as pin rails.

 

 

 
 

Hello,

many thanks for the nice comments.

It continues with a short update:
 

 

 
 

What can I say Toni but how I would love to be a fly in your workshop.  I cherish the photos I was able to get and always look at them.  Marvelous workmanship.   The next time you are able to get to a meeting I hope Kurt can set up something so I can drool over your work.
David B

Bueno amigos, con estas imágenes que os paso a continuación doy por terminado este entretenido proyecto de la Nave Vikinga de Gokstad, han sido 14 meses los que he empleado en su constricción.
Espero que paséis un rato entretenido, y que de alguna manera pueda servir de ayuda para los jóvenes que se inician en este Noble Arte del Modelismo Naval.
Amigos gracias, Saludos  Liberto
 
(Otras imágenes de algunos de mis trabajos. Victory  y Soleil Royale )
 

Hola amigos, los remos ya están terminados, y preparo una “cabeza de lobo” para el mascaron de proa, esta tallada en boj americano.
Paso imágenes, saludos Liberto

Hi friends,
thanks for the kind comments and likes.
New pictures of the 74 gun-ship.
Karl
 
 
​T e i l  10
 

Another photos 
 

   

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 172 – Stay Bullseyes/Eyebolts
 
There are six "heavy duty" eyebolts with shackled bullseyes that secure the two legs of the fore, main, and main topmast stays.  Those of the main mast are anchored in the deck and the forestay is secured to the knightheads.  I'm including these and all deck and hull eyebolts as part of the "pre-rigging" and intend to install all those connections before starting on the masts.  The process for making the bullseyes and fitting the iron shackles is very similar to that used on the channel deadeyes described earlier.  The process starts with the bullseyes.
 
There are two sizes of these bullseyes, 11" for the fore and main stays and 8" for the main topmast stay.
 
After turning a cherry cylinder the small bullseyes were shaped in the lathe and parted off first, followed by the larger size.  This allows them to be turned "overhanging" without end support and without deflection.  The first picture shows one of the 11" bullseyes being turned.
 

 
The edges were rounded with a file before the parting step shown in the photo.  The pieces were then filed/sanded to remove stubs from the parting.  They were then set up in chuck in the rotating table as described earlier for the deadeyes.  The rotating table is not really required for this, but it is easy to center with a dial indicator on the center hole.  I believe this was shown earlier.  The center holes in the bullseyes were then drilled as shown below.
 

 
I did this in the mill as described so the holes would be precisely centered.  Although lathe drilling can be very convenient, sometimes (at least in my aging Unimat) it is more likely to produce off center holes, especially on the smaller pieces.  In fact, for the small bullseyes I started the hole with a center drill before changing to the final small drill bit.  The larger bit shown on the 11" bullseye above was stiff enough to stay on center without that time consuming step.
 
The edges of the bores in all of the bullseyes were then rounded by twirling diamond bits by hand in a pin vise as shown below.
 

 
The bullseyes were then polished up and dyed with a non-fading walnut stain made from VanDyke crystals.  These will later be waxed. 
 
The next picture shows the first step in making the shackle.
 

 
The shackle bolts were silver- soldered to the ends of the shackle with the eyebolts slipped on but away from the solder.  These were then maneuvered over the bolt end of the shackle.  The six shackles with their eyebolts are shown below.
 

 
These were then slipped over the bullseyes, crimped and each whole assembly washed with liver of sulfur to blacken the copper.  The blackened assemblies are shown drying on a paper towel in the next picture.
 

 
The next picture shows two large bullseyes for the forestay bolted through the knightheads.  
 

 
These are often shown bolted into the tops of the knightheads, but this makes no sense to me because the strain could easily split open the top of the knighthead.  I bolted these through the aft side just below the top. (Engineering license.)
 
The connections for the main and main topmast stays are shown below.  Iron reinforcing plates were fitted at the base of these.
 

 
Location of these required some consideration (and again some license was exercised).  The larger mainstay eyebolts are anchored through the deck beam.  The position was plotted using a dummy lower mast and a full sized line to check for interferences with the bitts, the cabin roof, the foremast, and the anchor chain openings. The smaller main topmast stay eyebolts are likewise anchored on the deck and not to a cross member between the bitts as is often shown.  I omitted this member on both fore and main masts because rigging for the double topsail rig greatly increases congestion of ropes in this area, especially in front of the mast.  The location shown seemed logical, and as with the larger stay, will avoid interferences – I hope. 
 
 
Ed

Can't wait for the book. All my best Laman

Hello,
thank you so much!
Thanks also for the LIKES!
Meanwhile, I made more details:
-supplementing the 2nd companionway with a railing.

 

-robes ladder for shrouds, as you can see on cut model.

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 167 – Helm Details
 
So, it has been a month since the last post – seems longer.  Not a lot of modeling being done this summer, mostly just odds and ends getting ready to start masts and rigging.  This week I made a replacement for the first wheel and added the bell to the rudder head enclosure.  First the wheel.
 
I wanted to make two improvements to the first wheel.  I wanted to add turned spokes to replace the simpler hand filed spokes on the first version shown in earlier posts.  I also wanted to downsize the section on the rim to make it lighter and less clunky than the first.  One of the turned spokes is shown in the first picture next to the belaying pin.  The picture shows the four sizes of spindle turned pieces on the model.  A different turning method was used for each.
 

 
The largest is a turning of one of the 8" beam support pillars.  The rounds on these were turned with a shaped tool.  To its right is a 4" fife rail, turned with a single pointed tool.  At the far right is a 2" belaying pin, turned from a round brass rod using a hardened steel filing guide.  These are the smallest turnings so far.  There are 300 of them on the ship. The methods used for these three turnings were described briefly in earlier posts. 
 
The wheel spokes were turned using a simple filing guide and fine files as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Because the 2½" spokes are so small and fragile I made the first set of European Boxwood.  The final set used in the wheel were turned from .032" cherry heartwood square strips.
 
Making the hub/rim was described earlier.  In the next picture the new wheel, with spokes installed, is being parted off in the lathe.
 

 
The final cherry wheel is shown in the next picture.
 

 
The bell is a simple brass turning drilled for the rod shown inserted below.
 

 
The bracket for the bell started out as a rectangular brass section.  In the next picture it is being shaped and polished.
 

 
The last picture shows the new wheel and bell mounted on the rudder head enclosure.
 

 
The wheel was finished with a small amount of polyurethane, instead of the wax finish I normally use.  So far, none of the deck has been waxed because there are still many rigging attachments to be made.  The enclosure itself is only temporarily fitted on pins and will be stored away until much later.
 
Ed

Hi Pete,
Here's what I found in my archives on ship's stoves.
VOC Batavia

VOC Amsterdam

HMS Victory



HMS Warrior 1860


Maritime Museum in Gdańsk - from the Baltic shipwreck

 
Tadeusz
 

347 hours into the journey with just 13 frames to go.  While I have enjoyed the framing portion of this build, I am looking forward to a change of pace.  Shown here are how things look to this point.  Note the template continues to be on target.  One challenge that I have continuously had with this build is the sided dimensions of the frames.  The glue joints over time have added to this overall dimension. While only a few hundredths per frame, that can really add up when you do 90 of them.  On my final 9 frames, I need to claim back 1/8th of an inch.  This may not sound like much, but its critical to keep everything within spec.  Otherwise, the gun ports and other openings will be off. 
 
After the final timbers are placed, I will be adding a few more cross spallings before removing the ship from the board.  I will then spend considerable time fairing the overall hull.  I will then sit on the front porch where it is shaded, but bright and go over each frame - futtock by futtock, chock by chock to get them smooth and well aligned. After that, I will place the chock bolts, etc. 
 
Best, G
 
 

Can't wait for the book. All my best Laman

Thank you for your interest and for LIKES.
Here is a short update:

Hello,
many thanks for the nice comments and the likes.
According to a note I made a new attempt for the canvas.
The new Canvas made of silk has a finer weave structure.
The previous version was made of linen material.
I think that the new version is closer to the original.

Another photos 
 

     

I am having trouble uploading today, so this weeks work will come in several installments...  I am also having difficulty doing a narrative under each photo,
 
I am now all the way thru frame 4 as shown in the first photo.  The Keelson Knee is just shown fitted in place for now. 
 
The third photo highlights frames 4 and 5.  Note the notching of the chock on frame 4 that still needs to take place. I forgot to do this at the bench...
 
The top timber of frame 5 has a significant slant.  While this may look like an error, its actually to spec.  The slant allows room for a sweep port to be inserted.  There are many intentional irregularities with this ship that are historically accurate.  This is significant departure for me since I have built stylized models in the past that appeal to symmetry.  I now prefer the historically accurate models.  Interesting how our tastes and opinions on things evolve over time...
 
The last photo should actually be the first photo.  the forward frames are just sitting in place, awaiting spacers, final fitting and glue up.
 
The assembly line style of building the frames is certainly not for everyone, but it has greatly improved my efficiency and quality. 
 
You will also note the cross spauls that have been reinstalled.  This is a must in order to keep the shape.
 
As mentioned, I am bringing this ship to NRG in October (As well as my USB Eagle, also a scratch build in progress).  My goal with Naiad is to have the framing completed and faired, along with ribands, keelson, and chock bolts inserted. I estimate that will take me about 110 hours.
 
Best, G
 
 

Thank you, very much, friends!!
 
A small coat of matte varnish:

 
 
completion of the gun deck with hatches:

 

 

 

 

 

 

placement test