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sonicmcdude reacted to qwerty2008 in Sloop Mediator by qwerty2008 - Scale 1:48 - BOTTLE - using plans by carlosgf
Filler Blocks: (8:00 hours)
I made the filler blocks for the bow and stern as well as the gunport sills. The sills where made by cutting a strip of wood to the with of the gunports and using the miter box to cut them square, then they where beveled to fit the openings and glued in place. The filler blocks where made by first marking the shape on a scrap piece of wood then cutting rasping and finally sanding them flush with the bulkheads. After everything was in place I went over the entire hull with a palm sander (Black and Decker Mouse) now I am down to the part where I just want to run my fingers along it feeling how smooth and even it is.
Lextin.
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sonicmcdude got a reaction from qwerty2008 in Sloop Mediator by qwerty2008 - Scale 1:48 - BOTTLE - using plans by carlosgf
Nice start. The bulkhead method is my favorite one so I will be here to learn some and maybe suggest some things.
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sonicmcdude got a reaction from mtaylor in Sloop Mediator by qwerty2008 - Scale 1:48 - BOTTLE - using plans by carlosgf
Nice start. The bulkhead method is my favorite one so I will be here to learn some and maybe suggest some things.
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sonicmcdude got a reaction from IgorSky in Sloop Mediator by qwerty2008 - Scale 1:48 - BOTTLE - using plans by carlosgf
Nice start. The bulkhead method is my favorite one so I will be here to learn some and maybe suggest some things.
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sonicmcdude got a reaction from Omega1234 in Sloop Mediator by qwerty2008 - Scale 1:48 - BOTTLE - using plans by carlosgf
Nice start. The bulkhead method is my favorite one so I will be here to learn some and maybe suggest some things.
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sonicmcdude reacted to qwerty2008 in Sloop Mediator by qwerty2008 - Scale 1:48 - BOTTLE - using plans by carlosgf
Fairing the Bulkheads: (4.00 hours)
The fairing was done with a sanding drum on my Dremel rotary tool and I just beveled the bulkheads using the lines on the plans as a guide then used a strip of heavy card to check fairness and was pleasantly surprised that it ran flat against all the bulkheads the first time acting as a testament to the quality of the plans. There are still a few spots that need touchups but that shouldn't take long.
Lextin.
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sonicmcdude reacted to qwerty2008 in Sloop Mediator by qwerty2008 - Scale 1:48 - BOTTLE - using plans by carlosgf
Cutting the Bulkheads: (3.00 hours)
The plans (sheets 4-15) where printed then glued to a sheet of 1/4 inch Birch plywood which I then proceeded to cut on the bandsaw. As the plans were made for 5mm ply I had to cut the slots in the bulkheads a bit wider then they where men't to be, needless to say this took a bit of practice to get right so some fit a little loose and had to be shimmed with card stock.
Lextin.
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sonicmcdude reacted to kurtvd19 in Tracing light-box
I got an X-Ray light box from a vet and have used it many times as well as loaned it out to fellow club members. With the move to digital x-ray viewing there are lots of excess light boxes out there. Ask you vet or Dr. I have even seen them at garage sales and some time ago saw one at the Goodwill store. Their lighting is very even.
If you make one from plate glass like the one initially shown in this thread you can stretch a translucent panel across the supports below the glass to even the light out. A fluorescent light panel works as does a white shower curtain type of material - which also works as a diffuser for photographic lights.
Kurt
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sonicmcdude got a reaction from mtaylor in Tracing light-box
That is a neat idea. I think the white plexiglass that is used for making neon signs is going to be the best choice for this. They used also in medicine for x-ray copies.
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sonicmcdude reacted to mati in Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48
Thak you Mike for you kind comment I really appreciate that somebody is following my build.
Ok... another episode
This time 3 pound gun carriage. 1 from 12
On the 1 page you can see gun carriages which I made long time ago... and I'm glad that all of the previous are hidden under the deck In those days I thought that they look ok. I should slap myself for that
So... gun carriage after face lifting
Wood: pear
Metal parts: brass and copper
For rope I used polyester thread.
Thank you
Cheers
Matt
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sonicmcdude reacted to mati in Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48
Thank you for appreciation
This time main anchor.
Material: brass for anchor and copper for bolts
Soldering: silver paste
Blacken finish: Brass Black and potassium polysulfide for copper bolts
Cheers
Matt
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sonicmcdude reacted to exwafoo in Tapering masts, spars and yards
There's an article in the attached e-magazine I downloaded a number of years ago. It was free without registration, so I don't think there should be any problems with attaching it, especially as the site has now closed. Its in a 'booklet' format, so you have to go 'page by page.
It may be of use
Al
001_Journal.pdf
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sonicmcdude reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24
First picture, tools used for sculptures
Would you beleive that there is a learning curve about buying a hobby knife?
First, everybody buy an Exacto because at the begining we do not know that scalpel blades are available for the hobby market or if we know the existence we beleive that this is for the surgeon and someday realize that exacto blades do not cut that much.
Then he discovers scalpel blades with a metal handle. He soon realizes that often tools are made for specific jobs. The good side, the blade cuts way more than an exacto blade and also with much less pressure and as a bonus more precision can also be achieve with it. The bad side, if we can say, is that care must be taken in the way that this tool cannot be use with excessive pressure, if so broken blade can easily happen.
Finally, one last step. While he learns to use scalpel blade and appreciate it, he discovers a problem with the metal handle. When working long hours holding the handle, the handle ‘’corners’’ become to be cutting the skin. For this, one solution, acrylic sleeve handle. After that some cutting knives will never be use.
Last picture, the weekly quizz question : How many small parts did I lost since I installed this kind of black rubber floor more than 1 year ago? Seeing that objects drop are rarely black, objects are often contrasting with the floor. Aswer; none.
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sonicmcdude reacted to Gaetan Bordeleau in Le Fleuron by Gaetan Bordeleau - FINISHED - 1:24
Jig on the second picture to cut a piece in round. The idea is to have the part which is being cut always standing at 90 degres with the table.
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sonicmcdude reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
I've also fitted the fore topgallant shrouds and backstays. These were done in similar fashion to those on the main mast.
This concludes all the standing rigging apart from the Guy Pendants Falls. These have been partially rigged and will be finished off when the Spritsail Yard is fitted.
Here are a couple of pics of the completed standing rigging :
Danny
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sonicmcdude reacted to yamsterman in hms triton; first attempt at plank on frame
hi all
been doing some metal working for a change
more photos later
cheers,,,,mick
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sonicmcdude reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
Thank you Alistair
Red is a very transparent color to paint with. If you use thin coats it will be somewhat transparent. I have many more coats and more sanding to get it where I want but it will most likely have some transparency.
I found some workshop time....so I finished planking the starboard side. Its a big milestone but then I look at the port side and have to repeat the entire process, including the square tuck But it all worked out very well. Once the other side is finished I can start treenailing.
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sonicmcdude reacted to Chuck in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Chuck - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - kit prototype
The Square tuck....Thank goodness this isnt a real POF project. Here is the simplified version.
The photo below shows the first beam added which to create teh base for the stern post. It runs down the center of the square tuck so I can glue the stern post on later. It is 1/8" thick and 7/32" wide. The same width as the stern post
The same photo below shows the second timber....how I took a wider piece that was 1/8" thick. I shaped it so the seam between the lower counter and this timber was very tight. Then I measured and marked it so it would be 1/8" wide as well. This will of course be repeated on the other side once it is planked.
The finished timber below.
Then it was time to create the side piece which will finish the square tuck frame....this was the hardest piece but not that difficult at all. I just took a larger 1/8" thick piece of boxwood and shaped it to fit tightly against the two timbers I just just completed. I tried to get real tight seams. At the same time, it hangs off the side of the hull. Then I traced the shape of the hull against the back of this piece.
Heres what the tracing looks like. The piece was cut to shape on the scroll saw.
Then, this piece was temporarily glued back in position with just a small dot of CA. This was done because it will need to be removed after it is faired with the hull planking. See below. And as done before, I drew another line to establish a 1/8" wide finished timber. This was cut out and glued into position finishing the frame for the square tuck on this side of the hull.
Here is what it looks like.
Finally....it was planked inside with vertical planks the same width as the hull planking. Tarred seams were simulated. I was very careful to get very tight seams. In actual practice these planks would be normal thickness and the ends resting in a rabbet along the edges of the square tuck frame.
In my case though, I just faked it using planking that was actually 1/8" thick which is the same thickness as the frame. It all worked out in the end. I am quite pleased with the results as this is normally a really tough detail to model convincingly. Now to touch up the red paint on the counter or maybe its just best to wait till the planking is all done.
I can now start planking the last belt on the starboard side.
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sonicmcdude reacted to Dan Vadas in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Thanks for the comments Christian, Carl, Ed, Maury, Alex, Mike and Greg. Much appreciated as always.
Christian - 1050 long (from tip of Bowsprit to tip of Driver Boom) x 740 high x 355 wide.
Jib Net
This is one of the fiddliest parts to make on the whole ship. It took me 2 1/2 days.
It starts by making the two spreaders from English Box. Then the two Horses were threaded through the holes in each end of the spreaders and an eye seized into the inboard end of each horse :
To tie the netting together I constructed a simple Jig :
Five double lengths of the netting were hitched around one spreader :
Then the tedious work of tying together every 2nd pair of the longitudinal netting began. The first couple of rows didn't turn out too well under magnification, but look OK to the eye :
Two days later (I had to wait for the glue to dry on the seizings before continuing on the next row) the second spreader was hitched to the free end :
The net fitted to the bowsprit. The forward ends of the horses attach to the eyebolts in the sides of the cap :
The aft ends of the horses are attached via lanyards to an eyebolt in each knighthead :
Danny
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sonicmcdude reacted to mati in Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48
Playing around with rope making I already have plenty ropes... but still not enough...
Rope making are eating so mant time. Then it's necessary to permeate ropes .
These ropes are the most thiner diameter which I'm able to make using cotton threads and three thread (0,35mm and 0,25mm) of course you can lay thiner using two threads but quality and presentation are not gratifying. I have very nice syntetic threads which I'll use...most probably Syntetic threads are more elastic... and give opportunity to lay thin rope... problem is always with permeate and insulation (syntetic ropes like to "grab" dust... so it's necessary to hobble electrostatic force ...but about this and how to do it, I'll write in nearby future
Here I'd like to show example of cable-laid and left-laid ropes
Part of my rope-stock
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sonicmcdude reacted to mati in Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48
...another parts which will be moved to scrap... main top and fore top... dimmention of few parts in tops are wrong so I have to make new tops... I decide to change a little bit construction of the tops as well... so it's also bright side of making tops again
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sonicmcdude reacted to mati in Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48
Thank you mtaylor... I'm also happy to be back on MSW
So... time to arm a little bit this small vessel
Gun barrel was casted with silver and brass alloy... blackening made using solution of selenium acid...
Parts of gun carriage was photoetched in argentan.
...almost finished gun carriage... without cap square and securing clamps for the gun barrel trunnion... these elements I'll install later... almost on the end to avoid guns breaking in gunports...
These set of guns carriage is only part of full armament... sixth from fourteenth are hidding bellow quarter and forecastle decks...
... fast method of hooks making...
Hidden gun carriage with tackles... I'm not happy with these tackles... but good riddance no body gonna see them :P
Next tackle rope are thiner...
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sonicmcdude reacted to mati in Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48
Anja I'm using enlage cardboard model issue...
Pau Marfin it's Patagonian maple (clone) I've neve heard name Ivory wood for Pau.
Thank you for your commendation Cheers
...few more details
My method of making cleats...
...ladder
...maybe for somebody 'll be useful... and helps to find idea how to make small rings
Ring was finished using steel wool 0000
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sonicmcdude reacted to mati in Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48
Foremast... I'm building model using enlarge cardboard model from 1/96 to 1/48.
Ok, time to show you carvings... made from pau marfin...
...parrot after wax mixture...
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sonicmcdude reacted to mati in Papegojan 1627 by mati - FINISHED - 1/48
After when planking and imitation of nailing was finished I started cover model using wax mixture. Pear got really noble and old coloure...I love it!!
...and some progress
... head gratings, rails and toilets
...by the way wales was covered using solution of birch tar and terpentine