sonicmcdude

Filler Blocks: (8:00 hours)
 
I made the filler blocks for the bow and stern as well as the gunport sills. The sills where made by cutting a strip of wood to the with of the gunports and using the miter box to cut them square, then they where beveled to fit the openings and glued in place. The filler blocks where made by first marking the shape on a scrap piece of wood then cutting rasping and finally  sanding them flush with the bulkheads. After everything was in place I went over the entire hull with a palm sander (Black and Decker Mouse) now I am down to the part where I just want to run my fingers along it feeling how smooth and even it is.
 







 
 
 
 
 
Lextin.

Nice start. The bulkhead method is my favorite one so I will be here to learn some and maybe suggest some things. 

Nice start. The bulkhead method is my favorite one so I will be here to learn some and maybe suggest some things. 

Nice start. The bulkhead method is my favorite one so I will be here to learn some and maybe suggest some things. 

Nice start. The bulkhead method is my favorite one so I will be here to learn some and maybe suggest some things. 

Fairing the Bulkheads: (4.00 hours)
 
 
 
The fairing was done with a sanding drum on my Dremel rotary tool and I just beveled the bulkheads using the lines on the plans as a guide then used a strip of heavy card to check fairness and was pleasantly surprised that it ran flat against all the bulkheads the first time acting as a testament to the quality of the plans. There are still a few spots that need touchups but that shouldn't take long.
 



 
 
 
 
 
 
Lextin.

Cutting the Bulkheads: (3.00 hours)
 
 
The plans (sheets 4-15) where printed then glued to a sheet of 1/4 inch Birch plywood which I then proceeded to cut on the bandsaw. As the plans were made for 5mm ply I had to cut the slots in the bulkheads a bit wider then they where men't to be, needless to say this took a bit of practice to get right so some fit a little loose and had to be shimmed with card stock. 
 



 
 
 
 
 
Lextin.

I got an X-Ray light box from a vet and have used it many times as well as loaned it out to fellow club members.  With the move to digital x-ray viewing there are lots of excess light boxes out there.  Ask you vet or Dr.  I have even seen them at garage sales and some time ago saw one at the Goodwill store.  Their lighting is very even.
 
If you make one from plate glass like the one initially shown in this thread you can stretch a translucent panel across the supports below the glass to even the light out.  A fluorescent light panel works as does a white shower curtain type of material - which also works as a diffuser for photographic lights.
 
Kurt

That is a neat idea. I think the white plexiglass that is used for making neon signs is going to be the best choice for this. They used also in medicine for x-ray copies.

Thak you Mike for you kind comment I really appreciate that somebody is following my build.

Ok... another episode

This time 3 pound gun carriage. 1 from 12
 
On the 1 page you can see gun carriages which I made long time ago... and I'm glad that all of the previous are hidden under the deck In those days I thought that they look ok. I should slap myself for that
 
So... gun carriage after face lifting

Wood: pear
Metal parts: brass and copper

For rope I used polyester thread.

Thank you
 

 

 

 

 


Cheers
Matt

Thank you for appreciation 
 
This time main anchor.
 
Material: brass for anchor and copper for bolts
 
Soldering: silver paste
 
Blacken finish: Brass Black and potassium polysulfide for copper bolts
 

 

 

 

 

 
Cheers
Matt

There's an article in the attached e-magazine I downloaded a number of years ago. It was free without registration, so I don't think there should be any problems with attaching it, especially as the site has now closed. Its in a 'booklet' format, so you have to go 'page by page.
 
It may be of use
Al
001_Journal.pdf

First picture, tools used for sculptures
 
Would you beleive that there is a learning curve about buying a hobby knife?
First, everybody buy an Exacto  because at the begining we do not know that scalpel blades are available for the hobby market or if we know  the existence we beleive that this is for the surgeon and someday realize that  exacto blades do not cut that much.
Then he discovers scalpel blades with a metal handle. He soon  realizes that  often tools are made for specific jobs. The good side, the blade cuts way more than an exacto blade and also with  much less pressure and  as a bonus more precision can also be achieve with it. The bad side, if we can say, is that care must be taken in the way that this tool cannot be use with excessive pressure, if so broken blade can easily happen.
 
Finally, one last step. While he learns to use scalpel blade and appreciate it, he discovers a problem with the metal handle. When working long hours  holding the handle, the  handle ‘’corners’’ become  to be  cutting the skin. For this, one solution, acrylic sleeve handle. After that some cutting knives will never be  use.
 
Last picture, the weekly  quizz question : How many small parts did I lost since I installed   this kind of black rubber floor more than 1 year ago?  Seeing that objects drop are rarely black, objects are often contrasting with the floor. Aswer; none.

Jig on the second picture to cut a piece in round. The idea is to have the part which is being cut always standing at 90 degres with the table.

I've also fitted the fore topgallant shrouds and backstays. These were done in similar fashion to those on the main mast.
 
This concludes all the standing rigging apart from the Guy Pendants Falls. These have been partially rigged and will be finished off when the Spritsail Yard is fitted.
 
Here are a couple of pics of the completed standing rigging :
 

 

 
 Danny

hi all
been doing some metal working for a change
more photos later
cheers,,,,mick

Thank you Alistair
 
Red is a very transparent color to paint with.   If you use thin coats it will be somewhat transparent.  I have many more coats and more sanding to get it where I want but it will most likely have some transparency.
 
I found some workshop time....so I finished planking the starboard side.  Its a big milestone but then I look at the port side and have to repeat the entire process, including the square tuck   But it all worked out very well.   Once the other side is finished I can start treenailing.  
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

The Square tuck....Thank goodness this isnt a real POF project.  Here is the simplified version.
 
The photo below shows the first beam added which to create teh base for the stern post.  It runs down the center of the square tuck so I can glue the stern post on later.  It is 1/8" thick and 7/32" wide.  The same width as the stern post
 
The same photo below shows the second timber....how I took a wider piece that was 1/8" thick.  I shaped it so the seam between the lower counter and this timber was very tight.   Then I measured and marked it so it would be 1/8" wide as well.  This will of course be repeated on the other side once it is planked.
 

 
The finished timber below.
 

 
Then it was time to create the side piece which will finish the square tuck frame....this was the hardest piece but not that difficult at all.   I just took a larger 1/8" thick piece of boxwood and shaped it to fit tightly against the two timbers I just just completed.  I tried to get real tight seams. At the same time,  it hangs off the side of the hull.  Then I traced the shape of the hull against the back of this piece.
 

 
Heres what the tracing looks like.  The piece was cut to shape on the scroll saw.
 

 
Then,  this piece was temporarily glued back in position with just a small dot of CA.   This was done because it will need to be removed after it is faired with the hull planking.  See below.  And as done before,  I drew another line to establish a 1/8" wide finished timber.  This was cut out and glued into position finishing the frame for the square tuck on this side of the hull.
 

 
Here is what it looks like.
 

 

 
Finally....it was planked inside with vertical planks the same width as the hull planking.  Tarred seams were simulated.   I was very careful to get very tight seams.   In actual practice these planks would be normal thickness and the ends resting in a rabbet along the edges of the square tuck frame.
 
In my case though,  I just faked it using planking that was actually 1/8" thick which is the same thickness as the frame.   It all worked out in the end.  I am quite pleased with the results as this is normally a really tough detail to model convincingly.   Now to touch up the red paint on the counter or maybe its just best to wait till the planking is all done.
 

 

 

 
I can now start planking the last belt  on the starboard side.

Thanks for the comments Christian, Carl, Ed, Maury, Alex, Mike and Greg. Much appreciated as always.
 
 
Christian - 1050 long (from tip of Bowsprit to tip of Driver Boom) x 740 high x 355 wide.
 
Jib Net
 
This is one of the fiddliest parts to make on the whole ship. It took me 2 1/2 days.
 
It starts by making the two spreaders from English Box. Then the two Horses were threaded through the holes in each end of the spreaders and an eye seized into the inboard end of each horse :
 

 

 
To tie the netting together I constructed a simple Jig :
 

 
Five double lengths of the netting were hitched around one spreader :
 

 
Then the tedious work of tying together every 2nd pair of the longitudinal netting began. The first couple of rows didn't turn out too well under magnification, but look OK to the eye :
 

 
Two days later (I had to wait for the glue to dry on the seizings before continuing on the next row) the second spreader was hitched to the free end :
 

 

 
The net fitted to the bowsprit. The forward ends of the horses attach to the eyebolts in the sides of the cap :
 

 

 
The aft ends of the horses are attached via lanyards to an eyebolt in each knighthead :
 

 
 Danny

Playing around with rope making I already have plenty ropes... but still not enough...
Rope making are eating so mant time. Then it's necessary to permeate ropes .
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
These ropes are the most thiner diameter which I'm able to make using cotton threads and three thread (0,35mm and 0,25mm) of course you can lay thiner using two threads but quality and presentation are not gratifying. I have very nice syntetic threads which I'll use...most probably Syntetic threads are more elastic... and give opportunity to lay thin rope... problem is always with permeate and insulation (syntetic ropes like to "grab" dust... so it's necessary to hobble electrostatic force ...but about this and how to do it, I'll write in nearby future
 

 
Here I'd like to show example of cable-laid and left-laid ropes
 

 

 

 
Part of my rope-stock
 


 

...another parts which will be moved to scrap... main top and fore top... dimmention of few parts in tops are wrong so I have to make new tops... I decide to change a little bit construction of the tops as well... so it's also bright side of making tops again
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you mtaylor... I'm also happy to be back on MSW
 
So... time to arm a little bit this small vessel
 
Gun barrel was casted with silver and brass alloy... blackening made using solution of selenium acid...
Parts of gun carriage was photoetched in argentan.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...almost finished gun carriage... without cap square and securing clamps for the gun barrel trunnion... these elements I'll install later... almost on the end to avoid guns breaking in gunports...
 

 

 

 

 

 
These set of guns carriage is only part of full armament... sixth from fourteenth are hidding bellow quarter and forecastle decks...
 

 
... fast method of hooks making...
 

 

 
Hidden gun carriage with tackles... I'm not happy with these tackles...  but good riddance no body gonna see them :P
Next tackle rope are thiner...
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Anja I'm using enlage cardboard model issue...
Pau Marfin it's Patagonian maple (clone) I've neve heard name Ivory wood for Pau.
Thank you for your commendation Cheers
 
...few more details
 
My method of making cleats...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...ladder
 

 

 

 

 

 
...maybe for somebody 'll be useful... and helps to find idea how to make small rings
Ring was finished using steel wool 0000
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Foremast... I'm building model using enlarge cardboard model  from 1/96 to 1/48.
 
Ok, time to show you carvings... made from pau marfin...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...parrot after wax mixture...
 

 
 

After when planking and imitation of nailing was finished I started cover model using wax mixture. Pear got really noble and old coloure...I love it!!
 

 

 

 

 
...and some progress
 

 

 

 
... head gratings, rails and toilets
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
...by the way wales was covered using solution of birch tar and terpentine