mattsayers148
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Duanelaker reacted to a post in a topic:
Benjamin W Latham by mattsayers148 - Model Shipways 2109 - 1:48
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Benjamin W Latham by mattsayers148 - Model Shipways 2109 - 1:48
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Mechanical Solar System Build Log
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HMS Bounty Launch by mattsayers148 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:16 - SMALL
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EricWilliamMarshall reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bounty Launch by mattsayers148 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:16 - SMALL
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EricWilliamMarshall reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bounty Launch by mattsayers148 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:16 - SMALL
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EricWilliamMarshall reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bounty Launch by mattsayers148 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:16 - SMALL
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EricWilliamMarshall reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bounty Launch by mattsayers148 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:16 - SMALL
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Bounty Launch by Canute - Model Shipways - 1/16 - Small
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EricWilliamMarshall reacted to a post in a topic:
Bounty Launch by Canute - Model Shipways - 1/16 - Small
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mattsayers148 reacted to a post in a topic:
Benjamin W Latham by mattsayers148 - Model Shipways 2109 - 1:48
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mattsayers148 reacted to a post in a topic:
Benjamin W Latham by mattsayers148 - Model Shipways 2109 - 1:48
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Thanks Russ, CaptainSteve, Gary and for everyone who hit the like button. Gary, I use Casey's Brass Black. I lightly buff out the first dipping, the hit it again and let it sit overnight before I buff it out again. This helps the black hold better. -
mattsayers148 reacted to a post in a topic:
Benjamin W Latham by mattsayers148 - Model Shipways 2109 - 1:48
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mattsayers148 reacted to a post in a topic:
Benjamin W Latham by mattsayers148 - Model Shipways 2109 - 1:48
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mattsayers148 reacted to a post in a topic:
Benjamin W Latham by mattsayers148 - Model Shipways 2109 - 1:48
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Thank Russ, Ken, CH, Sam, HH, Mark and to everyone who beat the like button like a red headed stepchild. Your encouragement and support are greatly appreciated. Work on the deck fixtures has been progressing along fairly well. Quarter bits, chocks, belaying pins, galley light, smoke stack, seine roller and chain box with 90 fathoms of chain. I finally broke down and bought Chapelle's book The American Fishing Schooners, 1825-1935. An incredibly detailed listing of ships and their parts are of great help. I wish I'd bought it in the start. So next on the list is the windlass and all it's parts. Thankfully Chapelle's book is quite detailed for this. Onward!
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First off, you're doing an incredible job. I seem to remember wondering why no rat lines. I still am not sure exactly why not. There was discussion about the possibility of rope chairs like this.... There wasn't much room for living quarters so I'd be inclined to think that the rigging would accommodate a smaller crew.
- 96 replies
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- 6
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- topsail schooner
- revenue cutter
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mattsayers148 reacted to a post in a topic:
USRC Ranger 1819 by Cathead – FINISHED – Corel – Scale 1:64
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Hermione La Fayette 1780 by Bobstrake - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:89
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mattsayers148 reacted to a post in a topic:
Hermione La Fayette 1780 by Bobstrake - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:89
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mattsayers148 reacted to a post in a topic:
Benjamin W Latham by mattsayers148 - Model Shipways 2109 - 1:48
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mattsayers148 reacted to a post in a topic:
Benjamin W Latham by mattsayers148 - Model Shipways 2109 - 1:48
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Thanks Russ, HH and to everyone for hitting the like button. So I bought myself a new soldering iron for Christmas and began on some little projects. The main and fore fife rails were wooden, but I decided to make them out of brass and blacken. Thick pads were installed in the designated spots at the mast holes, later on for the windlass as well. Next up are the two bilge pumps. I found the patents as well as an advertisement drawing for these which greatly help in their construction. Even with my new iron, these proved to be quite a challenge. If I wasn't careful enough, soldering one spot would cause catastrophic collapse of the entirety. But after many attempts, the resulting pumps didn't turn out too bad. The handles were finished out with a half hitch spiral. And yes, the pump action does function. Thanks again to everyone for your encouragement and support. Here are the patent images.
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Awesome job CH! From what I remember, the supplied rigging diagrams are fairly accurate. They are, however, not the order best to follow. It's way easier to do the standing rigging first. This way all of the serving is out of the way for the most part, and these heavier lines help stabilize the masts. Onward!
- 96 replies
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- 4
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- topsail schooner
- revenue cutter
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Thanks Steve, Russ, CH, HH and to everyone who hit the like button. Hubac's Historian, I picked up a set of ten diamond needle files at Harbor Freight for under $10. They seem to be holding pretty well. Finished up the fore companion way. And yes, both companionways have removable panels. During my installation of all of the cleats and eyebolts, I snagged and broke my wheel, so this is wheel 2.0.
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Looking awesome as usual CaptainSteve!
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Excellent!!! I don't have any tools small enough for that!
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- artesania latina
- whaleboat
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Thanks CH, Gary, David, Hubac's Historian, Buck, Mark and all those who hit the like button. I know the hunk of metal looked strange so here's the result of a lot of filing...cleats(the [ shape was so they curve slightly up). The point also make for an easier install. Added to those are snatch cleats and the eyebolt to finish out the tie downs on the rails. Thanks for everyone's support and encouragement..onward!
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Not sure on that CH. I haven't used any supplied rope yet.
- 96 replies
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- 3
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- topsail schooner
- revenue cutter
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Thanks CaptainSteve, Buck and everyone for beating that like button like a redhead step child, or me. Buck, if I've left any doubt over my sanity, this should remove it. So these cut rings are slid onto a metal rod slightly smaller than the ring. Then I hold it like this... I then gently use my grinding wheel to thin the ring. It takes a very light touch to get the ring spinning. I grind it to desired thickness(.015 in) while keeping the rod around 1:00 and the disk around 2:00. Only my nail is touched by the ring to make as little friction as possible. Then I drop the rod and grinding wheel almost horizontal. Again, gently, oh sooo gently, make contact with the ring and flow in a half circle. Easy huh? Until you get cocky and burn a hole through your nail. Once again, I got to talk like a sailor! Anyone want to guess what this is going to be?
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Hey CH, I had to look back in my notes to find this one. The shrouds(standing rigging) is 0,8mm, the running rigging is 0,5mm and the lanyards are 0,25mm. Hope that helps. If you or Mrs. CH have sewing, knitting or crochet thread, or know someone who does, here are the thread sizes: 0,8mm = size 3 / 0,5mm = size 10 / 0,25mm = size 30. I use these exclusively, mostly since my other hobby is fine thread crochet. Six cord mercerized is a must. These can all be acquired on eBay or Etsy for pretty cheap. A DMC cordonnet special size 30 has 216yds so it goes a long way. Sorry Chuck, don't mean to step on your toes.
- 96 replies
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- 6
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- topsail schooner
- revenue cutter
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Another little tidbit, evening things out for railing. I made and installed all of my stanchions after the deck was completed for a more even sand job. I made this little jig with the same concept as marking the waterline, just from the deck instead. I drilled holes to my desired height, inserted a piece of .5mm pencil led, and made a nice even mark at the underside of the railing. Everything was cut long and then sanded down to the line. I made the sanding jig with filler blocks on one end. This block section was monitored continually to stay on centerline of the deck. This way the rail stays true to the decks curvature, not the work table as in marking the waterline.
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"Batten down the hatches!" Don't get to say that very often. Just thought I'd give a little update, midship hatches made and battened down. I've never liked the looks of the ring bolts I've made in the past, so here's my new and improved method. I cut the rings from brass tube and the bolt out of copper wire. This way the rings are solid, not cut like the manufactured ones. The twist is buried so it's unseen.
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Thank you CaptainSteve, CH, Mark, Elia, Frank and for all the likes. Elia...the rim and hub of the wheel is made from four pieces each. The rings that touch the spokes were drilled out for the spokes to fit into. On the rim a ring was put on the outside to lock spokes in place, on the hub one was put on the inside. Then one more thin ring and a wider ring to complete the i-beam shape. Then it was all soldered. Holes were drilled in the outmost ring and handles were soldered into them. The shaft was then put through the hub, capping it with three separate rings for the washer and bolt. Pretty simple huh?
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