Krelis

Thanks muchly Christian, Greg, John, Carl and David .
 
Jeer Tyes
 
The jeer tyes support the lower yards. These would have been a fair bit easier to fit before raising the Topmasts   .
 
Two 20" single blocks, one each side, are double stropped with very long strops :
 

 
A cleat each side of the mast supports the strops. TFFM suggested the following method of making the cleats to allow the lashings for the strops to be fitted more easily, but after I'd done them this way I think it would have been easier to make them in one piece. The small "feet" at the top were a real pain to fit afterward, and a needle treader can be used to pass the line through one-piece cleats with a minimum of fuss :
 

 

 
The lashings take a little while to fit, as there are six turns around the mast for each (there are supposed to be seven, but I made the lashing line a bit too short   ).
 

 

 

 
The strops should be long enough for the blocks to sit beneath the tops by about half their length. The yard will sit at the level of the futtock shrouds when they are rigged :
 

 
 Danny

Thank you everybody for likes and support. Wind in my sails

After two bussy day and "little" after-lunch-napping, made new music mix (this time Dylan, Baes, Donovan, CSNY, Melanie, Denver) and went down to play with "lettering"

From distance, look very o.k., and close up is still little frustrating. But, this panel is 22mm long, and whole model will be over 1000mm long. Think it is not such important. Game with "dotting" was pretty hard, full of very strong 3 hours lasting concentration of mind and non-shared attention to world around. Just me, magnifier, colors, needle and this pieces. And music

This time, main tool is sharped needle

Here is step by step , process ... what I wrote ... dot by dot









I





As it can be seen, I decided to step off C-plans and actual look and to "rise" a little this platform with letters, to "promote" it a bit in relation to other gold elements

Platform is a little more than 3mm wide, and a letters are about 2mm tall ... tricky

Only one lettering left ( rudder wheel box)

In fact hanging models from a ceiling is an old Dutch protestant trick to lure people into looking upwards, to the heavens I guess, so called "Church Models"
 

In fact hanging models from a ceiling is an old Dutch protestant trick to lure people into looking upwards, to the heavens I guess, so called "Church Models"
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 114 – Cabins, Brass Sheathing
 
With the forecastle essentially complete, I returned to the interior of the cabin deck.  The first picture shows the cabins on both sides completed.
 

 
The poop deck framing has been installed back to the last cabins.  The curved wood block that will serve as the base for the circular seat and paneling is set in place.  This will close off the aft end of the cabin deck, separating it from the stern framing and the helm.  Note also that the double doorway into the cabin deck has been cut – once the poop framing was done.
 
I also started work on the main deck cabin.  The starboard fore and aft wall panel is being constructed in the next picture.
 

 
The panel was made first from individual planks.  It has to follow the sheer of the deck.  In the picture the 4X4 plate that will support the roof rafters is glued on and 4X4 studs are being attached.  The next picture shows the framed wall in place for a trial fit.
 

 
The doors and windows have been framed on the inside.  In the next picture they have been cut out.
 

 
The exterior walls will be white.  I will do this painting before fitting the natural wood framing of the doors and windows.
 
This has all been a nice diversion from the brass sheathing of the hull, but I did not want to proceed further with details on the main deck without finishing the lower hull to minimize the need to upending the model.  The next picture shows the stamping tool for embossing nails on the brass plates.
 

 
This was discussed in some previous posts.  The area on the right is used to stamp every plate.  The single row stamp to the left is used for the top dress course.  It needs a row of nails added at the top.
 
The plates are cemented down with contact cement, with the indentations up to simulate nails hammered into the plates.  These should more correctly be called sheets.  They were very thin.  Being nailed over a felt underlay would have left a decidedly quilted appearance.  In the next picture, a plate has been cemented and is being rolled down.
 

 
This improves the bond with the contact cement, presses down the edges, and flattens out the indentations.  Glue is applied to one plate and its place on the hull at a time.  This is necessary to have glue on the overlaps.  Excess cement that can be seen on installed plates in this picture is easily removed later.
 
The last picture shows this work completed.
 

 
The brass is very shiny.  It will dull with time, but I helped it along with some buffing with a Scotchbrite disc in a rotary tool – just enough to dull the glare a bit.
 
Work on the bottom framing can now be completed – adding any missing bolts, blackening the copper wire bolts, final poolishing and applying wax finish.  It may also be time for the stern lettering.
 
 
Ed

In fact hanging models from a ceiling is an old Dutch protestant trick to lure people into looking upwards, to the heavens I guess, so called "Church Models"
 

They have made some major modifications I might add!!!

* adding "draaitafel" to wish list*

Today I finished the frontmast. I lost my camera so almost no pictures of the building but the final pictures show enough I think. It was a lot of work to find out how the rigging and lights in the mast had to be because I had no good pictures of this and it seemed different on any other ship from wich I had photo's. But I think it's done right now.

I wanted to try a tug, but smaller than the 800mm or so of the kits I could find - I like the look of the Occre Ulises, but not the size!
 
I found some plans for the Hermes, a German tug of 1923. I've reduced them to 1/150 approx, which gives a length of 285mm. There will be some modifications:
 
She'll be single-screw not twin, for a couple of reasons: I just think it looks better, and for the machinery space.
 
Which leads to the second mod: she has two cutouts on deck as you can see, and she'll have lift-off deckhouses to show interior detail. The aft space is for a single reciprocating engine (hence single-screw) and the fore space for boilers; I think the original was diesel, but steam will give more scope for details. Also, the compass platform is to be removable, to show the bridge interior.
 
Also, I may build more in timber rather than steel plate, which I think may be more in keeping, but this is open to revision.
 
The attached pictures show the plans; the raw material (a piece of left-over building timber); and the hull as at present, part-way through filling/sanding. The deck openings will be lined, probably in card, so the unfinished interior sides aren't very important although I will tidy them up; the openings are about 5mm larger than the opening in the deck planking will be, to give the impression of depth. Note the German dictionary in the first two pics: I need help identifying the Pilzkopflufter (9 of them) and the single Verspannung Schornstein.

Hi everyone and thanks for your Likes, especially Mike, Anton, Bob, Michael, Nick, Matija, Mark and Piet for all your comments, advice and compliments.
 
I'm a much happier boy tonight!!!!  I made sure that I applied the masking tape and pressed it down firmly this time and it seemed to work far better.  There is only a little bit of bleeding which can be easily dealt with.
 
More importantly, the paint finish is smooth and shiny.  I've tried to show how good the gloss looks in the photos below.  I'm not sure if the camera has picked up the reflections bouncing off the gleaming hull well enough; but you get the idea.  
 
Up on the deck, I've also added the gloss black cap rail, which highlights the slim and streamlined shape of the hull when viewed from above.
 
I hope you enjoy the photos.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Hello,
 
today my ship has it's 3. anniversary. Three years ago we laid down the keel. 
 

 
That was a time I would't forget, sometimes it was stress, but mostly enjoyable. I learned a lot about these ships and still learning. 
 
The last weeks I read much in these old book from the 18th or 19th century. One book I will everyone advise, who want to know where they stow this or that. Only my question is't answered. „Observations and Instructions for the use of the Commissioned, the Junior, and other Officers of the Royal Navy“ Google books http://books.google.de/books/about/Observations_and_Instructions_for_the_Us.html?id=5WlGAAAAYAAJ&redir_esc=y
 
There is the question answered where the capstan bars where stored: between the beams! But really new to me was, that in 1804 there was no rule from the admiralty for all ships. So every captain made his own rules how this or that was build, handled or done. If the ship has 2 or 3 watches and so on! 
 

 
Between reading I build the pillars for the guardrail of the stairways. A very frustrating job. It took me two days to build this pile of junk 
 

 
But at least I got enough pillars ready
 

 
Regards,
Siggi
 
 
 
 
 

With the outside ready, I started with the hold and orlop deck. 

But now it comes. The thing I had the most respect for, the carvings. That was after my visit of London. I saw at the British Museum carvings, after that I thought that I could carve 3 time larger figures blind ;-) 
 
Here you can see also that the color of the hull changed. Most of the gold and yellow is gone. 
 
To the stern carvings I have to explain, some know them already from the so called Thunderer. I think that this model is the Dragon. Both ships where build at Deptford and launched 1760. From the stern carvings I would say, that this are Dragons and there is the batch of the Prince of Wales. At those times the later Georg III. Wales has a lot to do with Dragons in there mythology, the red and white one. And the draughts of the Dragon are nearer to the model than the draughts of the Thunderer.
 
 

Then came the stern. That was real hard, but I think I got it.

I want to learn gradually so I can eventually build my real Spray to travel the world round and round:).
It is also a very basic guide on sanding for very basic absolute beginners.
I used a glass surface to guide my sanding block so it stays at the right angle. I also glued pieces of sandpaper to it so I could have more control over sanding.

Long time since my last post, had a stay in The Netherlands, and bought myself some walnut and some of the Corel Green Stuff, to replace the green planks in the kit. Must say, present day Corel green planks are much better quality then the ones I found with the kit, less neon like green, much smoother finish. Also find the new wood much less prone to splintering and breaking than the 30 year old wood that is included in the kit. Makes you wonder about shelf life. Its not only the woods, over the decades some of the "gold" ornaments have become seriously corroded. Had a bit of an issue bringing the wood to Curacao, the 0.5 mm strips and 5 mm sticks were a bit too long to fit in my bag, so I bundled them together with rubber bands to take as hand baggage..The resulting "stick"  worried the check in lady, she thought it looked like a weapon and thought it might not pass security, however, at the gate the security guy did not  blink an eye. I have a history with air port authorities, but the stress moment passed.  Anyways, I used the new wood  to replace the green planking I had already glued to the model, demolished the inner bulwarks for which I had invented home made walnut (see previous post), lowered the bull warks, sanded them to right whith again and plastered them with real walnut. I then made a walnut caprail  instead of using the "flexible beach" included in the kit, here is the grainy result.

 
Making the cap rail took me a lot of time, 2x 5 walnut is not what you call flexible, I had to assemble the 2x5's in 2x10's and make bow pieces from these

while for the really tight bends I fell back on laminating 0.5 mm walnut strips

 
 
With the cap rail in place I now have to confront the bow and stern design, the Corel drawings leave room for improvement
Corel bow design

instructions for the stern, the windows in the metal ornament are way to big.

Please note Corels depiction of the rudder hinges, the rudder would fall straight to the bottom of the ocean.
 
To solve my bow problem I start with lowering the bowsprit height to make it fit under the cap rail..

 
The situation at the stern, the kits instruction are simple: just glue on the metal ornament..

Nenad, thanks for the compliment, hereunder a picture I ran into last  week of another boat with planks moving up, without stealers though and with all planks ending either at the bow or under the whales. Still lots of room for improvement on my planking methods, also have to review my conclusion I gave in a previous post that planks should have their natural run, that is not per se the case with real world planking

I think i will go for a full hight deck as in this picture

Definitely a challenge, I found a Dolphin 3.0 by the way in Domanoff's "Swedish Privateer" (http://shipworkshop.com/models/swedish-privateer). Great looking model and good inspiration.

Hi everyone
 
Many thanks, as always to everyone who posted comments and Likes, i.e. Igor, Lawrence, Dennis, Matija, Mike, David, Cap'n'Bob, John and Row, etc!  They're all greatly appreciated.
 
Well, Rainbow's interior inches closer to completion.  Tonight I finished the navigation station which is occupied by the navigator when racing.  I've tried to show the navigation station in the photos below, but it's so small that'd you'd have to take my word for it! Trust me, it's there...it consists of a navigator's bench, a slanted work desk and some sundry shelving on the bulkhead wall above the slanted desk.
 
On the stern deck, Rainbow has a large hatch, which eventually will be glued in the upright position to show the interior of the stern.  at the moment, it's just temporarily shown in the upright position.
 
I hope you enjoy the photos, so far.
 
All the best!
 
Patrick 

Quite small progress today.
I established a gunwale.
 
Some time ago I received details for a rigging which I was going to use,but they have too small opening. I was compelled to order the new.

 
Best Regards!
Igor.

In fact hanging models from a ceiling is an old Dutch protestant trick to lure people into looking upwards, to the heavens I guess, so called "Church Models"
 

In fact hanging models from a ceiling is an old Dutch protestant trick to lure people into looking upwards, to the heavens I guess, so called "Church Models"
 

Long time since my last post, had a stay in The Netherlands, and bought myself some walnut and some of the Corel Green Stuff, to replace the green planks in the kit. Must say, present day Corel green planks are much better quality then the ones I found with the kit, less neon like green, much smoother finish. Also find the new wood much less prone to splintering and breaking than the 30 year old wood that is included in the kit. Makes you wonder about shelf life. Its not only the woods, over the decades some of the "gold" ornaments have become seriously corroded. Had a bit of an issue bringing the wood to Curacao, the 0.5 mm strips and 5 mm sticks were a bit too long to fit in my bag, so I bundled them together with rubber bands to take as hand baggage..The resulting "stick"  worried the check in lady, she thought it looked like a weapon and thought it might not pass security, however, at the gate the security guy did not  blink an eye. I have a history with air port authorities, but the stress moment passed.  Anyways, I used the new wood  to replace the green planking I had already glued to the model, demolished the inner bulwarks for which I had invented home made walnut (see previous post), lowered the bull warks, sanded them to right whith again and plastered them with real walnut. I then made a walnut caprail  instead of using the "flexible beach" included in the kit, here is the grainy result.

 
Making the cap rail took me a lot of time, 2x 5 walnut is not what you call flexible, I had to assemble the 2x5's in 2x10's and make bow pieces from these

while for the really tight bends I fell back on laminating 0.5 mm walnut strips

 
 
With the cap rail in place I now have to confront the bow and stern design, the Corel drawings leave room for improvement
Corel bow design

instructions for the stern, the windows in the metal ornament are way to big.

Please note Corels depiction of the rudder hinges, the rudder would fall straight to the bottom of the ocean.
 
To solve my bow problem I start with lowering the bowsprit height to make it fit under the cap rail..

 
The situation at the stern, the kits instruction are simple: just glue on the metal ornament..