Krelis

Hi,
I have made my thickness sander for table drill with use of sanding cylinder.

Tadeusz

The kit does not provide planking of the inner bull warks,

with all the corrections I have done to them I need some cover up .
 
Woodstrips are not for sale in Curacao let alone walnut woodstrips, I did however buy 3 years ago a package of Billing Boat Annegre strips, but those will not contrast with the deck planking..

I therefore bleach them and then stain with Minwax Special Walnut

The rather peculiar result, with treatment the wood has become a bit "grainy"

I think i will go for a full hight deck as in this picture

The standard fore deck is blocking the way between the soon to be hawse holes and the projected wind lass. Demolition Tool: the Dremel 561 Cutting Bit, is to wood what a thermal lance is to steel, but hard to control.

Planking finished port side below wale...

In 2010 I started a blog on this first build. The blog continued for perhaps 6 months when model ended up behind cupboard doors next to the Christmas tree decorations and a pile of books on boat building and rigging. Last week the hull found its way back to the building board  for final stage of planking. .
After three years of abstinence I had to get it all back in my fingers again; wood bending and cutting, doing all the checks before application of glue, getting it right
 
My old MSW account and blog are gone, but I still got the pictures:

Purchased by my dad somewhere in the eighties

The instruction drawing, the big white area pretty much sums up the Corel planking instructions; must have left my dad with a huge question mark above his head and perhaps explains why it took a next generation to muster the courage to add glue to the various components  - with inspiration derived from internet, especially MSW.

I suppose Corel must have taken note of the work of Frederick af Chapman.
 
Fredrik Henrik af Chapman http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fredrik_Henrik_af_Chapman

the Ketch, no. 3 in Chapmans' Architectura Navalis Mercatoria, published in 1768. The book contained 62 illustrations of ships and smaller vessels, both Swedish and foreign designs. Some of these were Chapman's own designs, but many were also types that he had seen during visits to foreign countries. Everything from large warships to small fishing vessels were represented (Source: wikipedia).
 

Set up of frames

Solid Surinam hardwood handle keeping everything in check
[
Many planking instructions suggest you should divide the space over the frames evenly according to the number of planks and then taper and hang the planks accordingly,thats what I did with the first layer of planking. Its wrong. With 5 mm planks the planks decide how they run, they are too narrow to allow for spiling, only with wide enough planks (planks which allow for spiling) the planker may devide the space according to his will

looks like its made of match sticks
But add filler and sand it all down, and youre ok..

with first layer, that is

addition of false stems and keel (not included in kit), made from oak

Problem: the instructed planking scheme for the second layer does not match the dimensions of the first layer as defined by the frames, I therefore find it necessary to heighten the bull warks therewith altering the the side profile / the run of the gunwale.

And commence planking of second layer,
I then find this picture on the internet...

A revelation: planks do not necessary end at the bow but may turn upward and form "saddlebags" underneath the whales.

Saddlebag

After completion of the saddlebags (the segments which require dropplanks) I commenced at the keel with the lower concave sections (the sections which require stealers).
.
I let the first planks envelop the stem

The two sections meet at the one plank which connects straight and free from bow to stern
 

Another important find is that all you need for woodbending is a glass of water and a candle
 

Stick the end of the wood in the glass, and let it soak until its wet about 3 cm above the water, then you know its soaked enough...then hold it above the candle and bend it, you will feel the wood give in. Dont overbend it, you cant bend it back. If the wood burns easily it probably means you did not soak long enough. If the wood dries up on the outside while heating use a brush to keep the wood wet on the outside of the bend.
 
Do not only bend the wood but give it the right twist at the same time..

to ensure stress free gluing...

for each and every plank..
 
 
[to be continued]

Progress!
 

 
Facing the dreaded spreading-hull syndrome, I decided to tackle the issue head-on. With carpentry clamps. Using the thwarts as a guide, I set up two clamps and gradually tightened them until the thwarts fit snugly. Some minor hull popping and creaking made me nervous, but she's a strong little boat. With the clamps stable, I glued in all but the aft two thwarts (to leave room for building the quarterdeck).
 
Part of this process, though not shown, was aligning two thwarts properly with the mast steps. I inserted the dowels, held them straight with a square set onto the floor, and adjusted the thwarts as needed. The slow set time of carpenter's glue allowed this to work properly. 
 

 
My gamble was correct; when the clamps were removed, the thwarts held the hull in shape. Test-fitting the gunwales proved that the original kit design is accurate; when the thwarts fit snugly, the gunwales will as well. So I glued them on, using the thick-rod-and-rubber-band method I stole from someone else (I have read so many Bounty Launch logs that I cannot keep them straight anymore).
 

 
On to the quarterdeck. I spent an afternoon reading about 8 build logs to develop my plan of attack for this, and decided to build the deck on the plans before installation. Here I stole an idea from my model railroading  background, and laid a wide strip of masking tape face up, securing it with two other strips at each end. Then I laid the rough-cut cherry frames across the tape, which holds them in place for further assembly. The tape is translucent enough to allow for tracing appropriates lines to ensure accuracy.
 
At right you see the assembled deck, with hatch cut out. I left the frames long intentionally, and slowly cut them down as needed, with a lot of test-fitting, until the deck seated properly into the hull. I used a neat little tool for notching the hatch-planks (the plan shows it done this way, though some logs have used three full planks), also from my model-railroading background:
 

 
There it is on the left; the Nibbler. It takes perfectly square chunks out of strip wood, and is invaluable for cutting precise window/door holes in buildings and other projects. This is how I did all the windows on my steamboat. On the right is another excellent tool, the Chopper. It makes perfect 90 degree cuts of stock, with frames that let you set repeatable lengths. I use this for all manner of projects, and it is perfect for decking like this.
 

 
And here is the current status. The hull is effectively done, save one last sanding and perhaps one more coat of stain. Two insets show changes I made. On top, I made new quarterknees because the kit's did not fit properly with the angles my hull ended up with. They were too short, and the aft angle was wrong. So I traced and carved new ones. The stained piece is from the kit, the unstained my own replacement, cut from the same stock as the original.
 
The other inset shows my hatch-rope, an idea shamelessly stolen from CaptainSteve. His used a tighter loop; Bligh would probably trip over mine. But I went with a design that I thought would be more visible, if not quite as realistic.
 
Apologies for the color balance on these. Outdoors we are getting a mix of rain, snow, and other in-between mess that makes the indoor light rather dim and harsh. One of these days I will take this outside for some better photos.
 
I had intended to build this without  masts, thinking it would fit better on a shelf somewhere. Fortunately, I happened to mention this to Mrs Cathead just before gluing in the thwarts, and she made it known that masts would be a good thing. So I took the extra time to align the thwarts and mast steps, which I would otherwise have not bothered to do. So very soon I will begin shaping masts and oars, and starting to feel sad that this wonderful project is now closer to its end than its beginning.

I am not sure if this belongs here.
Our KEURIG (coffee machine) died the other day and I took it completely apart to salvage the tiny bolts and nuts which I will be using on my Soling 1m RC sail boat. These tiny items will come in handy when anchoring the RC material to the hull. No pictures of the example yet but what follows is the completely taken apart coffee machine.
 

 

Rest in Peace
 

Tubing a tiny screws, nuts and bolts.
 

Here is the tiny items.
 
Marc

So many great topics here on msw, the unconditional urge to make things absolutely perfect, as with this deck, incredible, humbling and inspirational, thanks for sharing the techniques, experience and perseverance

So many great topics here on msw, the unconditional urge to make things absolutely perfect, as with this deck, incredible, humbling and inspirational, thanks for sharing the techniques, experience and perseverance

Construction: Frame, Keel and Chine Installation

The frames are then installed, with the aid of a special template jig as they are not perpendicular to the sub-deck. When installed correctly, they have a slight lean aft. Epoxy is the recommended glue for this job. I used the 5-min type and it was quite good to work with, having a reasonable working time to get things aligned correctly, and then setting reasonably quickly after that.



Once all the frames are installed, the Fwd keel is inserted. I used Epoxy to glue the forward part to the sub-deck, and then wicked super thin aliphatic resin into the frame joints.




The next job is to insert the Butterfly Keel, which is a two piece keel (one either side of the centreline) extending from Frame Four aft to Frame Eight. Once that is installed, the next job is to install the Chine. This is an interesting construction method. The Chine is made of two 1/8” thick strips of balsa on each side To start, the ends of the two strips are glued together for the first inch, with about 1/4" overlap. Once dry, this section is then glued into the notch in frame one, using a liberal amount of Epoxy and left to cure for at least one hour.



Once the epoxy has cured, a bead of wood glue (I used the aliphatic resin again) is run between the two strips, and these are progressively bent to shape, clamped and glued to each frame notch in turn with thick CA and the assistance of some CA kicker. Sounds complicated but is remarkably easy and all done in about 5 minutes.



Once all the glues had dried, the overhang was trimmed flush with the transom.



This completes the lower hull framing. The next job will be to install the “underplanking”.

Edit: I may have been mistaken about some of the materials used. See post #19 below for further thoughts.

So after looking at the oars, something seemed missing.
 
So this is what I came up with...for now.

Thanks Buck, I just might have to copy your compass.
 
Just a few quick pics of my Turks head.

You can see that the top belt of a covering of the hull is 0,4 mm lower than the line of the deck. It is necessary to paste then a false board 1,2 mm wide.

Thanks to everyone that follow my log, which give likes, support and nice words.   Row, it's all luck,  as all fingers is complete, so far I have only good sanded nails ..
 
Thanks Mike, I'm also a joy to see your log and the progress of construction.
  Today I finished my deck. Now give him a lot of attention, sanding and coating ... Here are a few photos, I hope you will like:   Regards, Matija.                                

Thank you for showing how you did that beautiful work on the planking.

Hello Matija
 
Great workmanship! - I just learned a few things. Thank you for posting this skills.
 
Regards
Mike
 

Patrick, thanks for the compliments. Nice to hear from a true master
 
How do I have a problem with bad English I made a few pictures to explain how I do it.
I do not think I'm doing something special that others do not work.
  maybe is  the secret to great pressure on the planks glued part.
 
each plank especially sanding and checking measures
 

 

 

 
It begins like this
 

 

 
the coarse sanding but must be at right angles
 

 
checking
 

 
adjustment
 

 

 

 

 
Here it is evident that the pressure on the plank gets result
 

 
follows gluing black paper
 

 

 

 

 

 
placed plank is for example, not glued
 

 

 

 

 

 

Patrick, I think I could answer on your question, and I hope it is understandable.
I hope that I helped to someone  
 
Regards, Matija.

 
 
 
 

Thank Row and others who likes.  
 
The deck is nearing the end, here are some photos:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Regards, Matija.

Very slow progress of building deck:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Matija
 

My goodness, that deck is absolutely stunning - having worked on charter yachts in the past I've seen decks on multi-million £/$ yachts that didn't look that good! My one regret is that I never sailed one of WM Fife's yachts, but for me, without a doubt, the most beautiful yacht I did crew was the 1903 'Kelpie' designed by fellow Scot Alfred Milne - see http://www.pbase.com/kathymansfield/image/142802037
 
I digress, back to your superb deck - what weight of paper do you use for the caulking effect & what sort of glue do you use for bonding it to the deck planks? My own J class build has reached the stage where I'm thinking about the deck at the moment and awaiting a point in time where I can get back into the workshop...
 
Regards,
 
Row

Deck continued construction:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Matija
 
 

That was a very brave move, but if you're not happy with it, the only way to go!
 
John

I agree with all of you. The beauty of this ship fascinates me   when I saw it.   More photos:               cause     moment of decision                              
 

Rowing & epoxy:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Matija