Cathead

Everything looks great!

Spent the last week working on deck furnishings, all these attachments to the deck are deceptive with how much time they take to complete.  Also looking at these pictures makes me just want to pick up a touch up brush, its crazy how a camera points out so many imperfections that you can't see with the eye. 
 
Got the chain wrapped around the windlass after I spent nearly an hour looking on the ground for one of the chain pipe outlets I dropped.  I even saw exactly where the piece landed, but by the time I got on my knees to grab it the piece it had been sucked up by the small parts black hole.

 
Main jeer bits, water pumps and main hatchway.

 
Skylights and companion ways. 

 
Boat mounts

 
And that takes me up to how the ship currently sits.  

 
Just a few more items for the deck, I need to figure out how I want to rig the stowed cannons, start making the hammocks, then the ships boats.  After that then Its time for the masts and rigging.

Cap strips and Hog Truss posts have been added
 

 
and Chicken Coop
 

 
Started looking into the smoke stacks and decided i wanted to use some sort of pipe instead of the dowel rods.   Looking at other logs, others seem to imply they used 1/2" PVC pipe saying the outside diameter is 5/8" (same as the supplied dowel rod).  I am not sure what 1/2" PVC dowel rods they were referring to, but the 1/2" PVC pipe I have has an outside diameter greater then 5/8".    I did find at the local box store that the 1/2" PEX pipe is the correct dimension as the supplied 5/8" dowel rod.   You can get a short rigid 1/2" PEX pipe about 3' long.
 

 
As you can see it fits exactly to to outside diameter of the supplied dowel rod.   This is what I will be using for the smoke stacks when I get to that stage in the build.
 

 
Here is an interesting "fun fact"....   With the 1/16" square vertical posts installed on the Hurricane deck, it is not possible to install the back stairs.   With the posts installed, there is not room to slide the stairs into place from the side.   Even inserting the stairs at the bow of the boat and sliding it all the way, back back, I was unable to right it into place.   Only option was to remove one of the posts, insert the stairs, and then replace the post.
 
Below shows post removed and stairs ready to be righted.
 

 
Once stairs were in place, post was replaced
 

 
Decorative support brackets have been installed...    I have a lot to learn about painting brass...  I am not sure what the story was....  I primed the brass and then followed up with at coat of paint, but as the decorative support brackets were glued in, some of the paint came off and had to be repainted.   I am not sure, maybe I should have sanded (scratched up) the brass before priming it as it is really smooth.   I can see why paint has a hard time sticking to it.   I need to look into that for the future..   Anyway, below shows the decorative support brackets installed
 

 
Sky light complete and ready for the Texas.  Masing tape was used here too to simulate the tar strips
 

 
Texas house almost complete.   As with the Hurricane deck the Texas has 1/32" squares battens.   And as with the Hurricane deck they are a real pain in the $#%@. 
Once all the battens were in place, just needs a another coat of paint and the doors.
 

 
And the top to the Texas.   Again masking tape was used to simulate tar strips
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Bienvenido a MSW! I spent a fair amount of time in Chile in 2018 and wrote up a thread on all my maritime explorations. Nothing you probably don't already know but you might enjoy seeing an outsider's perspective.
 
The best advice I can give is to start with something simple and build your skills from there. If you get in over your head it can do more harm than good. The complex dream models will still be there when you're ready for them.
 
 

Bienvenido a MSW! I spent a fair amount of time in Chile in 2018 and wrote up a thread on all my maritime explorations. Nothing you probably don't already know but you might enjoy seeing an outsider's perspective.
 
The best advice I can give is to start with something simple and build your skills from there. If you get in over your head it can do more harm than good. The complex dream models will still be there when you're ready for them.
 
 

Bienvenido a MSW! I spent a fair amount of time in Chile in 2018 and wrote up a thread on all my maritime explorations. Nothing you probably don't already know but you might enjoy seeing an outsider's perspective.
 
The best advice I can give is to start with something simple and build your skills from there. If you get in over your head it can do more harm than good. The complex dream models will still be there when you're ready for them.
 
 

Your work looks lovely, but I feel obliged to point out that it's "winch", not "wench". The latter has a very different meaning that makes the above paragraph unintentionally hilarious (especially the deep sea line)!
 

Lol, there is a reason I am an accountant and not a grammar teacher. 

Your work looks lovely, but I feel obliged to point out that it's "winch", not "wench". The latter has a very different meaning that makes the above paragraph unintentionally hilarious (especially the deep sea line)!
 

Finished redoing the mast shroud lines. 
 

 
and installed the bowsprit and shroud lines.

 

 

 

 
 

Completed painting the yard and attaching the blocks.
 

 
I discovered that one of the shrouds shorter than I wanted and I suspect it will make it more challenging to connect the line properly to the deadeyes. Replacing the shroud now seems like my best way forward, and once that step is complete I will start affixing the yards to the mast.

Continuing to make progress with both the main and driver booms complete.
 

 

 
Finished shaping the yards and installing the fittings prior to painting.
 

 
And began installing the shrouds.
 

 
After having to rebuild the stern, I am concerned about breaking something as I make progress on the rigging.  I have decided to build as much of the main mast as possible with the mast separate from the hull as that approach affords more flexibility to get a better orientation for building while I am still working on developing my skills. My intent is to get the shrouds tied to the mast and the yards installed before I step the mast and finish the rigging. 
 

A little bit of progress this week.  I'm new at metal working, so it took some trial and error to figure out how I am going to make the backstay plates and chain plates.  One of the main issues to getting the ball rolling was figuring out how I was going to make these without the availability of 1/64" x 3/32" brass strip.  It would appear that K & S has discontinued nearly its entire line of brass strip, and I couldn't locate any of the size I needed in my internet search.  Many years ago I had bought a package of various sizes of 6" x 12" brass shim stock (used to shim the plates when molding parts in plastic injection molding machines so that they align correctly) just in case I ever needed sheet brass.  These sheets came in thickness of .001", .0015", .002", .003", .004", .005", .006", .007", .008", .010", .012", and .015".  The .015" thickness is the decimal measurement of 1/64".  So I have my material.  I used a pair of ancient tin snips I have in my toolbox to cut 3/32" wide strips off the sheet.  I then had to flatten the strips since they curled both along the face and the edge.  Next I filed the sharp edges flat.  Then used flat pliers to eliminate the lengthwise cupping caused in cutting the strips off the sheet.  Now that I had my self-made strips ready, I then shaped the backstay plates following Chuck's instructions in his monograph.  Since the strips I created were rough and with blemishes, I polished the finished backstay plates with a fine file after shaping was complete, just because I'm a perfectionist, and that's how I roll!  Yes, I know they'll be painted black.  Haha.
 
Erik

Turnbuckles…

I used 1/16” OD Aluminum tubing and copper wire to build dummy turnbuckles. There is no mention of turnbuckles in the instructions. I wanted to try to add this detail and tried to get them small enough to be of proper scale. 😆


Used needle file to cut both sides of tubing. 

Used Copper wire to fit through the tubing. 

Turnbuckle body is held in place with a touch of CA glue. 

 

Bobstays placed
 
 Cheers 🍻 

Jumbo Jib Stay…

For all stays I am using the kit supplied .021” cotton/ploy line (WP1210)

For the lashing I am using .18 monofilament line purchased from HiSModel.com. 


Lashed up the Stay (including downhaul block to the Jumbo Jib Stay Bail previously placed. 

Completed rigging the Jumbo Job Stay Bridle to attach the Stay to the Fore Mast. 

Jumbo Jib Stay completed. 
 
Next up is the Bow Sprit rigging, so I can  continue placement of the Forward Stays. 
 
Cheers 🍻 
 

Yes ,that turn out really nice, its
awesome.  That's what I want to try too! There are so many shades of red, but I like this one.Here is what I got and with luck and a lot of guidance  it should look similar to yours. How does that saying go The highest form of flatter  or praise is mimicking  which I intend to copy yours its so cool. Thanks again

Ratlines Complete!!!

Onwards! 🍻

Onward and upward (pun intended). I am pretty much done with deck details, and I will be moving on to mast construction. I only rigged 2 guns, as I don't like the cluttered appearance of a full complement of rigged cannons. I did the two just to show what it's like. By the way (see photo) I used Syren Shipyard blocks. They are true 1/8 (3mm) pieces. The new ones I got from ME were 5/32, just like the old ones that came with the kit - much too large for a good appearance. I will add coiled lines at a later date.
I still need to add the bowsprit, for which I constructed all parts last year, and finish my cradle for the ship's boat which I plan to mount on the deck. I have the completed main hatch, but I want to position the boat before I glue the hatch in position. I may add the channels as well, as they have been fabricated.
Some notes on photos: I built galley stack from scratch, and I added a stair well to the fore hatch (I'm assuming there had to be some access in the fore part of the ship). I made the pin rail braces from 0.025 in. piano wire which I bent into a simple "7" shape and slipped under the rails where plans indicated. Using super glue, I did not need to drill mounting holes... Each pin rail has 2 short pieces of wire underneath with holes drilled into the bulwark to secure with superglue. You can't see these support wires. I will probably mount channels the same way. Water pump was scratch built with the use of plastic strip for details. Now that I know how to silver solder (turnedd out to be super simple with solder flux, heat pad, and a small hand torch acquired from Amazon), I would have done it that way, for a better look.
Simulated bolt heads on the canons and capstan were made by drilling shallow holes in the object and glueing in short sections of 22 gauge wire. Once the glue set, the wire was trimmed.
 
As many other builder have done, I only installed two cabins to avoid the crowded appearance of three. The current ship has three, but I am assuming the original had fewer - certainly a companionway at a minimum. Also, I did not use the binnacle I purchased. There must have been one on the 1812 ship, but the model piece did not look 'right'. Current ship appears to have a binnacle plus engine and other controls on top of the captains skylight...
Taped lines will be used for the boom guy. Since they attach to the same eyebolt as the tiller sheets, I thought it would be easier to add them now and rig later.
There are several spots where various sheets are secured to the deck or rail, but I am unsure about adding all. Some attach to the clew of triangular sails, etc. Without sail, I'm not sure they would be present. (On a modern racing yacht, they are usually removed and stored when sails are stored or furled.)
Well, anyways, I am now going to assemble the bowsprit (but hold off mounting) and construct the two masts. I won't add the bowsprit until the masts are installed. My desk workspace is limited, and I am in fear of snapping the bowsprit off due to my carelessness at some point....

The first two lengths of planking attached to the outside of the hull progress!

Hello, and thank you for your comments and likes
today the carpenters repaired there mistakes from yesterday and finished the back side of the bulwark. Then they also build the doors. The shipwright is this time pleased and spend a beer. 😊



 

Hello, and many thak for your likes
we where busy here with the aft bulwark. That is the plan

and here the (third!) raw bulwark

Today we finished the outside of the bulwark

When I saw this picture, I think there is some work left for tommorow. Some of the plinths have to go.

I have started building the cutter using the parts that came with the kit. My kit came with two keels pieces, one in MDF the same width as the frames and a thinner one in pear. I glued the frames to the thinner one but the slots are bigger than the keel, so I also used some thin CA with the wood glue to help hold the frames to the keel. The two transom pieces fit perfectly though as their slots were cut for the thinner keel. The instructions say to plank with 3mm wide strips, but my kit only came with 4mm pear strips for all planking. I have enough end cuts from planking the hull so I ripped these down to 3mm using the Byrnes saw.
 

 
I have also shaped the two lower masts and one of the topmasts (they are both the same on this ship according to the plans). I started by shaping the square sections by hand using files, then used the lathe to shape the round sections. No pictures yet though.

Thanks for your responses guys. 
 
I know I didn't do that. After taking more measurements yesterday I think this is a cautionary tale about small errors adding up - the wales are a bit too high, the channels are a bit too low, the bottoms of the gun ports may have been filed down a bit too far, etc. creating about a 2mm error in the location of the chain plates. Oh well, time to move on.
 
I added the rest of the deck fittings today, which was pretty straight forward. The aft ladder was too tight in the coaming so I filed the sides of the coaming and deck a bit until it fit nicely. The anchor lines I made from 0.076" line I made when I built the Duchess of Kingston model.
 

 
I am going to build the ship's boat next but also the masts at the same time. I have four sails still to make and I have to make them one at a time, so I would like to get started on them soon. But I need the exact heights of the mast sections and stays to size them accurately.

Thanks for the update on Maggie, Keith and on you.   I know the feeling of running amok like a headless chicken but in the end, it's worth it.   Hang in there, both of you will get through this.

Hello Keith,
 
It is good to hear that Maggie continues to improve even if progress in some areas are slower than others.   My understanding of this is that slowdowns and even temporary setbacks are not uncommon.  
 
I can only imagine how busy you must be and the level of stress you’re experiencing. It must be exhausting.  All you can do is your best.  Try to find some time for yourself to decompress on a daily basis.
 
I wish you both a speedy return to some level of normalcy and a peaceful future.
 
Gary