Cathead

The hull is finished! After sanding to an acceptable texture, I primed and painted it using Model Shipways primer and white, thinned and with several coats. This sealed off any remaining tiny gaps nicely but the planking can still be seen.
 

I rebuilt the rudder to get proportions I found more pleasing, and painted that too. It won't actually be installed until much later, but it's done.

And two more views of the hull from bow and stern:


I had intended to plank the main deck next, but changed my mind. I'm going to build the cylinder timbers and wheel supports next, because those will inform how I lay out the deck and superstructure. Plus, I've dealt with enough planking for now.
 
Thanks for reading!

I've made slow progress on some unphotogenic work, mainly filling in the myriad little gaps in planking between every deck beam extending out to support the guards. This took forever, as each little piece had to be cut and filed to shape given the odd angles of the hull, particularly at bow and stern. They're not all quite straight or perfect, but some judicious wood filler and filing took care of that, and they'll be almost invisible on the finished model once the decking is installed and they're tucked in the shadows under the guards. I didn't bother to take a photo of this as it really isn't very interesting. It took a long time, but a couple interesting soccer games over the weekend helped me keep plugging away.
 
Beforehand, now that the hull was planked, I made a basic support jig that allowed the hull to be clamped into my handy rotating work stand:
 

Unlike a sailing ship, these riverboats had little to no external keel, so there's nowhere to attach such a work stand to. I really like having my models on a rotating stand like this, because it allows me to choose the right angle for any given job and often makes the work a lot more ergonomic. Thus I made and screwed this into the hull; it's nice and solid. Although this setup is rough and ugly, I measured the screw holes in the hull to be exactly where I'd want them for the final display stand. So I'll be able to mount this properly once the work is done. It already made filling all the planking gaps much easier because I could tilt the model as-needed to see each gap.
 
Also, as there were questions about the rudder, here's my rudder next to the original:
 

Now that they're truly side by side, it seems that I got a few proportions slightly off. Some of this can be solved by a bit more sanding. I may end up redoing this, using the photo pair above as a better guide. I won't attach this until near the end of the project, so it's not of immediate concern. It is neat to compare the model and original side by side like this, I'll try to do a few more photos.
 
Next up, I'll take the jig back off the hull and do a final sanding. Once I'm happy with it surface, I'll go ahead and paint it. Then it's on to deck planking.
 
Thanks for reading.

Watching the winter Olympics has both slowed and helped my work. Slowed, because it's been an evening time sink watching so many events I enjoy. Helped, because I moved into the final parts of hull planking that required more careful shaping and manual gluing, so it gave me something to do while messing with individual planks.
 
I've been planking from the outside in, and once I got too near the centerline, my normal binder-clip clamps (black, below) wouldn't fit anymore. So I started using reversed and halved clothespins instead, whose angled shapes work quite well as wedges (also below). Their clamping parts aren't doing anything, but wedging them into the narrow gaps between plank and the center bulkhead worked really well, at least for straight areas. For curved areas, I mostly did this manually and watched Olympics. But I was really pleased with this method.
 

Then I made a frustrating mistake, managing to snap off a big chunk of the curve bow guard extension. It actually wasn't hard to repair, I just cut away most of the bow's curve on both sides, and bend and inserted a new piece that fully swept around that curve. It's not quite as nice as the original because the new joint was harder to hide, but when the model is finished it won't really show. I was still very annoyed with myself because I've been so careful in handling.
 

So here's the planked hull. Note that in this photo I've begun inserting the extra guard timbers at the stern, but not yet at the bow, to bring them up to the right density. If I had decided to plank over the underside of the guards, I wouldn't have needed to do this, so hadn't until the decision was made. But there's abundant evidence that leaving the guards open underneath is the right approach, so in go the rest of the guards.
 

 
As you may be able to tell above, I also used some wood filler to match a few less-than-ideal gaps in planking, mostly in the complicated stern area. Above, I've applied it to the starboard (lower) side but not yet the port (upper side), and haven't yet sanded it down. Below is a closer look at the stern, with one side filled and one side not. In this photo, it has been sanded. It's definitely smoother now but the planking lines still show through. I'm pleased with how this came out overall, though I did struggles to get the run of planking right and could probably have done it better. Those odd extensions at the very stern are on the real thing, I'll come back to that soon when I show the building of the rudder.
 

 
And here she is with all the guard timbers installed, right side up with my machinery templates laid out for reference. If you look closely at the starboard wheel area, you'll see a little vertical wooden thing that doesn't resolve well in the photo. That's my rough person for scale, he's about 5'8", shorter than me but about right for the period. The wheel is in about the right vertical place and orientation. The plain white rectangle represents the boilers.
 

So that's where Arabia stands post-Olympics. Next up, I need to cut way too many short strips of hull planking to fill in the last strake between all the guard timbers, then do any final hull finishing necessary. I'll paint the hull next before proceeding to planking the deck, and also will finish the rudder, though I probably won't install it until the very end to keep if from being knocked off. Then, finally, I'll move toward deck planking.
 
Thanks as always for following along. Hopefully this starts to get more interesting soon as we turn her right side up and the machinery and superstructure get underway.
 
 

Hull planking is progressing steadily. This isn't the most interesting part of most builds for readers, so thanks for bearing with me. This will start to get fun once I flip her over and begin working on machinery and superstructure.
 
Overall hull status, almost caught up on the starboard side. Notice the solid strips inserted between the bulkheads in places, evenly spaced from the stern and bow. These are meant to provide support for the future display stand; I can screw pedestals or other supports into the hull this way. I filled the whole area to ensure that I have flexibility in deciding what will look good later.

Two shots of the stern, with the camera catching every flaw. Some of these planks are less than ideal, with some gaps or other oddities. I think that judicious filler and careful sanding will improve things considerably.


And the bow for good measure, which is much easier to plank than the stern:

Trying to show the curved chine area, but it's hard to focus on. I'm tempted to build a few mini frame replicas to show the different chine styles used on different boats.

Closeup of how I've decided to fill in the rest of the hull's bottom. It makes more sense to lay straight planks with angled edges than to bend every plank from here on. I don't know how it was done on the real thing and have never found a clear description of steamboat planking in this regard, so I'm going with this. If something like this was done, I suspect the builders may have notched each plank end into the wraparound plank rather than terminating at such fine points, but I can't prove that's right and don't want to do that much work for something that's pure guesswork and won't hardly ever be seen anyway.
 

The planking will soon get easier and faster as I move toward finishing the flat bottom. Then it's time for filling, sanding, and finish work before she's flipped over.
 
I do have one question for anyone knowledgeable: Were the undersides of the guards typically planked or left open? Photographs never show this angle. If I'm going to plank them, I'll need to do that next. If not, I'll need to fill in the guards with the rest of the beams (they'd be at a much tighter spacing than my basic structure above). But for this model it's one or the other (planked guards not requiring all beams, or unplanked requiring all beams), so I need to decide what's right.
 
As always, thanks for reading, and I hope to move on from the interminable planking stage soon.

Hull planking is progressing smoothly now. I've begun working on the starboard side now that I can use the port side as a frame of reference (and guide to what to do better). There are still some imperfect areas, but nothing that can't be fixed with a bit of filler and sanding. I do have a decision to make and am curious if anyone has input. Here's the current state of the (further-along) port bow and stern:


On these wide, flat boats I just don't see how the entire hull's planking can be condensed into the bow and stern. It works for sailing ships with more rounded, well-proportioned hulls, but in this case I'd have to shrink each strake to paper-thin to fit them all in. Up until now, it's been most sensible to curve each strake along the flow of the hull, meeting the centerline at an angle at the bow and pinching together at the stern. This stern pattern matches what I can see of the preserved stern (roughly) and the bow pattern matches the few photos I can find showing nothing but smooth, parallel planking at the bow of such boats.
 
However, I'll need to drop some planks pretty soon because it can't keep going like this. The question is, do I run the remaining planks (a) in a continuing set of curves (as before) so that each end is cut to butt up against the centerline, or (b) parallel to the centerline so that each plank is cut to butt against the last curved strake? In the photos above, I've laid loose planks out in both rough configurations to illustrate what I mean.
 
My inclination is (b), which matches what Kurt showed earlier in this log for the bottom planking of Chaperon, the only accurate wooden steamboat kit I know of (Kurt, is it ok if I repost this here for clarity?). Note that on Chaperon, the planking stayed curved until the flat bottom was reached; I followed the same pattern on my model as it makes the most sense. Thus I'm ready to make this transition at the bow and not quite ready at the stern. Chaperon doesn't inform the stern question as sternwheelers had much simpler sterns than sidewheelers.  Anyway, that's where the model stands. I'm going to keep filling in the starboard side, hoping to do a slightly cleaner job as I consider this the intended display side (the reason I started on the port side). But I'd like to decide how to proceed on the bottom. Thanks for reading!
 
 

The hull is finished! After sanding to an acceptable texture, I primed and painted it using Model Shipways primer and white, thinned and with several coats. This sealed off any remaining tiny gaps nicely but the planking can still be seen.
 

I rebuilt the rudder to get proportions I found more pleasing, and painted that too. It won't actually be installed until much later, but it's done.

And two more views of the hull from bow and stern:


I had intended to plank the main deck next, but changed my mind. I'm going to build the cylinder timbers and wheel supports next, because those will inform how I lay out the deck and superstructure. Plus, I've dealt with enough planking for now.
 
Thanks for reading!

The hull is finished! After sanding to an acceptable texture, I primed and painted it using Model Shipways primer and white, thinned and with several coats. This sealed off any remaining tiny gaps nicely but the planking can still be seen.
 

I rebuilt the rudder to get proportions I found more pleasing, and painted that too. It won't actually be installed until much later, but it's done.

And two more views of the hull from bow and stern:


I had intended to plank the main deck next, but changed my mind. I'm going to build the cylinder timbers and wheel supports next, because those will inform how I lay out the deck and superstructure. Plus, I've dealt with enough planking for now.
 
Thanks for reading!

The hull is finished! After sanding to an acceptable texture, I primed and painted it using Model Shipways primer and white, thinned and with several coats. This sealed off any remaining tiny gaps nicely but the planking can still be seen.
 

I rebuilt the rudder to get proportions I found more pleasing, and painted that too. It won't actually be installed until much later, but it's done.

And two more views of the hull from bow and stern:


I had intended to plank the main deck next, but changed my mind. I'm going to build the cylinder timbers and wheel supports next, because those will inform how I lay out the deck and superstructure. Plus, I've dealt with enough planking for now.
 
Thanks for reading!

The hull is finished! After sanding to an acceptable texture, I primed and painted it using Model Shipways primer and white, thinned and with several coats. This sealed off any remaining tiny gaps nicely but the planking can still be seen.
 

I rebuilt the rudder to get proportions I found more pleasing, and painted that too. It won't actually be installed until much later, but it's done.

And two more views of the hull from bow and stern:


I had intended to plank the main deck next, but changed my mind. I'm going to build the cylinder timbers and wheel supports next, because those will inform how I lay out the deck and superstructure. Plus, I've dealt with enough planking for now.
 
Thanks for reading!

The hull is finished! After sanding to an acceptable texture, I primed and painted it using Model Shipways primer and white, thinned and with several coats. This sealed off any remaining tiny gaps nicely but the planking can still be seen.
 

I rebuilt the rudder to get proportions I found more pleasing, and painted that too. It won't actually be installed until much later, but it's done.

And two more views of the hull from bow and stern:


I had intended to plank the main deck next, but changed my mind. I'm going to build the cylinder timbers and wheel supports next, because those will inform how I lay out the deck and superstructure. Plus, I've dealt with enough planking for now.
 
Thanks for reading!

The hull is finished! After sanding to an acceptable texture, I primed and painted it using Model Shipways primer and white, thinned and with several coats. This sealed off any remaining tiny gaps nicely but the planking can still be seen.
 

I rebuilt the rudder to get proportions I found more pleasing, and painted that too. It won't actually be installed until much later, but it's done.

And two more views of the hull from bow and stern:


I had intended to plank the main deck next, but changed my mind. I'm going to build the cylinder timbers and wheel supports next, because those will inform how I lay out the deck and superstructure. Plus, I've dealt with enough planking for now.
 
Thanks for reading!

The hull is finished! After sanding to an acceptable texture, I primed and painted it using Model Shipways primer and white, thinned and with several coats. This sealed off any remaining tiny gaps nicely but the planking can still be seen.
 

I rebuilt the rudder to get proportions I found more pleasing, and painted that too. It won't actually be installed until much later, but it's done.

And two more views of the hull from bow and stern:


I had intended to plank the main deck next, but changed my mind. I'm going to build the cylinder timbers and wheel supports next, because those will inform how I lay out the deck and superstructure. Plus, I've dealt with enough planking for now.
 
Thanks for reading!

The hull is finished! After sanding to an acceptable texture, I primed and painted it using Model Shipways primer and white, thinned and with several coats. This sealed off any remaining tiny gaps nicely but the planking can still be seen.
 

I rebuilt the rudder to get proportions I found more pleasing, and painted that too. It won't actually be installed until much later, but it's done.

And two more views of the hull from bow and stern:


I had intended to plank the main deck next, but changed my mind. I'm going to build the cylinder timbers and wheel supports next, because those will inform how I lay out the deck and superstructure. Plus, I've dealt with enough planking for now.
 
Thanks for reading!

Moving upward. Some shots of the next level cabins planked, filled, sanded, and with doors and windows cut out.
 




 
And now some with the first coat of white paint. The structure is just sitting in place at the moment.
 



 
Cheers
 
Chris.
 

now that we have power back...........came back on @ 6:30 AM {Gibbs let us know}......I can continue.   this is a fairly bright room......I could have continued without it........some of my pictures are done with no lighting at all.  I figured I would start with something easy,  while I think about the stairs.....I finished the coral bars.

the second level deck is cemented on...had to be weighted down due to the arch.

sorry to see.......but the bow fender was a flop!   I used the wrong template {deck}.   the parts panels are in very good shape.

the one laid on top is the one I should have used.   the mahogany bent OK......but I think I will try a softer wood.   I can stain it later.   for chuckles,  I did a dry fit of the second level, and the third level deck.

here's how the stairs came out........

the instructions weren't much help either......so I will try a different approach.   it starts with this platform..........

and these stairs .........

getting the height right is going to be the feat.......I'm working from the ground up.   I'm going to make the set of stairs that will join the second level too.....they need to join together on the platform,  that will likely tell me better how high the platform needs to be.   I'm also thinking of bypassing the platform idea,  and create stairs that branch off each other,  joined at the lower level.   I'll get to be able to use some of the kit parts this way.   if this don't work......then I guess I'll have to go all 'Dr Who' on the model   

yesterday was devoted to the second level structure clean up.   the windows and doors......finished trimming the excess planking,  and then sanding to all the openings.   you probably saw that I had sanded over the planking, to get rid of the ridges.....I went over it again with the stain.  it did come out a little darker,  even though I wiped it fairly quick after the application....shouldn't take away too much.  it was given a coat of lacquer,  but I had to give it a second light coat,  due to some 'white' that started to form.  lacquer can be rather touchy with humidity.





while this process was going on,  I tried my hand with the spiral stairs.  I can concur with Hugh.......they are a pain    they didn't come out right.

I couldn't wait. I wanted to paint tomorrow so I had to do some shading tonite. my girl says It looks like somthing that belongs on starwars. 

I basically just primed the barrels which is why I wanted to prime in the first place. 

 I am not a fan of lacquer  or in the enamel at all.  It smells nasty. And suddenly I had no idea how to clean my airbrush. Are usually use rubbing alcohol but all that did was clump up the paint,  so I ended up cleaning it with the lacquer thinner.  After all the paint was removed I  then cleaned with rubbing alcohol . Also does anybody know how long I should wait before I paint a second coat with acrylic?

I'm self-employed; there's no such thing as sick leave. Enjoy it while you got it! Nice work on the guns.

Welcome aboard a new crew member!
 
Chris
 



 

well......I had fun yesterday     planking......planking..........and more planking    the second level structure is completely planked.

I trimmed off what I had done already...exposed the tabs.....and then continued. 

I was very happy to see that the final plank fit comfortably,  joining the plank band together.   couldn't have planned it any better myself......that was the question in my mind,  using the two sizes of planking.   I also finished trimming the stairway area of the second level deck.   once it was ready,  it went to the paint booth, to get two coats of gloss lacquer.

the stand I made for it is good.......but I need to improve on it.  the hull moves around on it,  making some work done on it a little unstable.  
    I first cut the excess wood from it,  to make it look better.

I marked off the center between the bars of Balsa at both ends,  and made up these two chocks for the keel.

while they were drying......I started to trim the excess from the planking.  I used the clippers,  and then sanded the edge flush.

....I can't wait till I get to the windows and doors.   trimming them out is going to be a chore    I don't recall seeing doors with rounded tops.......they must be metal parts.  I will have to make them scratch,  from wood........I already know that I will that I will need to do  the windows.  in between all this,  I also cut the paddle boards for the wheel.....planning my attack to paint the metal parts.   by this time,  the chocks were dry enough to trim,  sand,  and cement into place.

I sanded the bars down a bit,  because the board is warped to a degree.......trying to make up for it.  I'm sure that as more work is done to the model,  it will get heavier,  and will flatten out the stand on it's own.   I may need to file the slot in the chocks to make up for this,  so the keel has the room to sit in the slots fully.   the deck is dry now........has the same sheen as the first level......glad to see that      it was put aside....it will be cemented on once I can get the hull back on the stand.

this has taken some time........but the windows and doors are almost completely trimmed out.  it's as tedious as I though it would be.

one last thing I started to create,  is the fender at the bow.   I had been soaking a piece of the mahogany wood for most of the morning.   I got the parts panel for the deck out of the box,  and set it up on a piece of pine wood.  I'm using it to bend the wood to the contour of the deck.

I have been very careful not to ruin the panels........sneaky,  sneaky me    I have a 'what if' brewing in the back of my mind.  icky mae   
 

Thanks guys. The barrells are now glued. 

off to the hobby store. 

I'm self-employed; there's no such thing as sick leave. Enjoy it while you got it! Nice work on the guns.

I'm self-employed; there's no such thing as sick leave. Enjoy it while you got it! Nice work on the guns.

I'm self-employed; there's no such thing as sick leave. Enjoy it while you got it! Nice work on the guns.