vossy

Hey Oliver, amid ships simply means the middle of the ship. If you look through numerous build logs here you will probably notice that more people than not tend to plank either side as they go. I certainly do, but you can do one side at a time if you wish. I also tend to start at the top and at the keel at the same time and just fill in the gap so to speak. This way also gives you a good guide as to how much you will need to taper each plank.
 
Tapering simply means that you remove a small amount of wood from the plank at either end (sometimes this is not required), so that the plank is wider in the middle than it is on the ends. Never taper more than 50% of the plank width though. This is where steelers come in if needed.
 
cheers
 
Chris
 

Oliver, also look through heaps of build logs for planking progress pics, especially try to find vessels with the same hull shape as Santa Maria. The vessel doesn't have to be Santa Maria, but it will give you an idea of how to go about planking a hull of the type you have.
 
This model was the first wooden ship I ever built, and I found the planking process to be a lot easier once I had a thorough understanding of the general principles of planking. Don't take short cuts. Ship modelling is a slow process.
 
cheers
 
Chris
 

Looking at your pics it seems you have maybe gone wrong from the beginning. The planking should have begun from the top of the bulkheads amid ships then continue downward one plank at a time on either side to get a uniform planking over both sides of the vessel. Remember that you absolutely must taper each plank fore and aft and only along the bottom edge. As you progress you may find it is necessary to add steeler planks to fill any large gaps that may arise. This is not uncommon.
 
I don't know if you are gluing these planks or just nailing them on. If its the latter I would probably advise you to maybe rip them off and start again. Carefully read any planking tutorials you can get your hands on. Do not just simply nail the plank onto the bulkhead. It must be glued into place. The nails are simply driven in about halfway to hold it in place whilst the glue dries, then the nails are removed.
 
It is a good idea to soak the planks in water for a period of time before attaching them to the model. I usually leave thicker first planks soaking overnight in my plank soaker then roughly shape them to the contour of the hull using a hot soldering iron. At this point I apply a small amount of glue to each bulkhead where the plank will meet it and gently drive in small nails to hold it secure until the glue has set. Once sufficient bond has been established remove the nails and repeat the process until the hull is covered. Any small gaps can then be filled with an appropriate filler. Larger gaps will require steeler planks.
 
cheers
 
Chris
 

Hey Oliver, looking at your planking so far it seems to me you need to taper your planks more. Also only taper them on one edge, not both edges. Another thing I notice is your nailing. Don't hammer/push them right in. They have to come out. They are only used to hold the planks against the false bulkheads as the glue dries. Once the glue is dry you will need to remove them. I typically use a small pair of hobby round nose pliers for this. Do not leave them in as you wont be able to fill and sand the first planking layer prior to final planking.
 
cheers
 
Chris
 

Oliver, also look through heaps of build logs for planking progress pics, especially try to find vessels with the same hull shape as Santa Maria. The vessel doesn't have to be Santa Maria, but it will give you an idea of how to go about planking a hull of the type you have.
 
This model was the first wooden ship I ever built, and I found the planking process to be a lot easier once I had a thorough understanding of the general principles of planking. Don't take short cuts. Ship modelling is a slow process.
 
cheers
 
Chris
 

Looking at your pics it seems you have maybe gone wrong from the beginning. The planking should have begun from the top of the bulkheads amid ships then continue downward one plank at a time on either side to get a uniform planking over both sides of the vessel. Remember that you absolutely must taper each plank fore and aft and only along the bottom edge. As you progress you may find it is necessary to add steeler planks to fill any large gaps that may arise. This is not uncommon.
 
I don't know if you are gluing these planks or just nailing them on. If its the latter I would probably advise you to maybe rip them off and start again. Carefully read any planking tutorials you can get your hands on. Do not just simply nail the plank onto the bulkhead. It must be glued into place. The nails are simply driven in about halfway to hold it in place whilst the glue dries, then the nails are removed.
 
It is a good idea to soak the planks in water for a period of time before attaching them to the model. I usually leave thicker first planks soaking overnight in my plank soaker then roughly shape them to the contour of the hull using a hot soldering iron. At this point I apply a small amount of glue to each bulkhead where the plank will meet it and gently drive in small nails to hold it secure until the glue has set. Once sufficient bond has been established remove the nails and repeat the process until the hull is covered. Any small gaps can then be filled with an appropriate filler. Larger gaps will require steeler planks.
 
cheers
 
Chris
 

Hey Oliver, looking at your planking so far it seems to me you need to taper your planks more. Also only taper them on one edge, not both edges. Another thing I notice is your nailing. Don't hammer/push them right in. They have to come out. They are only used to hold the planks against the false bulkheads as the glue dries. Once the glue is dry you will need to remove them. I typically use a small pair of hobby round nose pliers for this. Do not leave them in as you wont be able to fill and sand the first planking layer prior to final planking.
 
cheers
 
Chris
 

well done dave, super job, she looks really good! any plans to put her in a case?
 
chris
 

cool jig dave, but love the card! as a half dane/half aussie, this is gold to me! where on earth did she find that?
 
chris

hey dave, I have been away for a few days but I can now see you have made great progress. really like the railings, they really clean up the model I reckon. it seems this particular kit comes with very scant instructions going by some of the problems you have encountered. it does look to finish into a really nice vessel though. pretty much up to putting on the second deck on mine now too. I can only get pics when I take it around to my sisters place though. its really the reason I haven't began a build log. maybe after xmas I might get a camera if finances permit.
 
chris
 

hey dave, 100% agree with antony about the smoke stacks. they really set her off. colors are great and vibrant. did you have to paint the actual stack? was it metal tube?
still searching the known universe for 1:50 scale figures of people of the period and some horses for my boat. also need some fake straw for the horse box's, but I reckon that wont be too hard to find.
 
chris
 

another cool update dave. is the different color deck pattern just a photo trick thing? or did you actually use different types of timber? I am referring to the deck that your removable structure sits upon.
 
do really like the staircase and lead up to the wheel house. find it a bit strange, and rather annoying really, specially for newer builders, that the instructions end at this point. there appears to be a fair bit to go, and to expect less experienced builders to merely follow pics is a bit lazy on the manufacturers part I reckon.
 
anyway, no doubt you will nail it.
 
chris
 

hey dave, after this week I will try to put one up. even though I am a bit into the build. some people may be interested if guess. just need to get the last day of school out of the way. what vessel is the grand banks?
 
chris
 

really like the boats wheel dave. I reckon with this model I would employ the skirting board method on all levels. seems to just clean it up that much more. you cant have too much more to go? any news on what you may tackle next?
 
chris
 

Looking really good Dave. Its weird that they would make two sections that are supposed to fit flush together but one is straight and the other curved. Anyway I think the skirting board approach solves this well. Don't know why the top is removable if its not a RC model. Perhaps to add interior effects like furniture or even lighting?
 
If I can source 1:50 scale period figures and furniture of the time frame for my boat (1870 - 1920), I am really keen on the idea of adding those. Given mine isn't a real vessel, I want to glam it up a bit. Been the devil's own job finding anything in that scale though.
 
Looking forward to your next instalment.
 
Chris
 

Whoops! something went amiss there! lol
 
was going to say, I really like the way you have reversed the deck patterns. looks great.
 
regarding the spiral staircase; is there anyway you can remove them at this stage? I reckon you might be able to build them up by adding a step or platform at the base of each case. if it is not a regular shape or angle, you could probably hide it somewhat with some well placed hay bails, buckets etc.
 
I reckon this wouldn't stand out as much as the angled entrance way to the first deck.
 
Chris
 

Hey Dave, yeah just doesn't look right to me. at some point I will get this kit and try to work out a solution whereby the staircase meets the fist deck flush.
 
You could always try to camouflage it a bit on the finished build if you are unhappy with it. maybe a well placed banner of some string of lights etc?
 
Chris
 

Looks really great Dave. My one question, and I have seen this model done a few times, is, does it look/seem odd how the staircases seem to finish at an odd angle and halfway up where they meet the first deck?
 
It doesn't seem quite right to me. As I said I have seen this vessel done a few times and all seem the same way, so I'm guessing that's what the plans call for? it just looks plain wrong to me. 
 
is there anyway with this kit that they could be made to sit flush with the deck?
 
Chris
 

Wheel looks great Dave. What actual colour red is it? Also love the different natural wood colours in the close up pics. Bet it looks even better in person!
 
Chris
 

Glad you went this way Dave. I think this part of the vessel should be a little more refined than the lower engine/stowage compartments. Looks really nice and highlights the stateroom structure even more I reckon.
 
Chris
 
 

Looks great Dave. You could always put a small skirting board around the whole stateroom structure to hide any gaps.
 
Chris
 

Totally love the Herring Bone second deck Dave! Looks really great. I have seen this model up close and personal at a local show and its one thing that really stands out on her. Yours is a great credit to yourself. What type of wood and finish are you using here?
 
Chris
 

Thanks Dave, I probably should start a log of my own I guess. I think the wood is walnut. What I did was cut a lot of scaled down 20 and 10 foot lengths, then mixed them up to get he random color effect. Then I just placed them randomly and finished off with 2 coats of Cabot's matt clear polyurethane acrylic.
 
Chris
 

Hey this is looking really nice David. Great work. Here is a pic of my Mississippi 1:50 Sergal kit with painted hull. Hope you don't mind me dropping them here?
 
Chris
 
 
 

Hey Dave, for what its worth, my mail from a few guys who really know a lot about these boats, (Cathead, Kurt) reckon nearly everyone of these boats had a painted hull. Either white or black. But predominately white. I am currently building the Sergal Mississippi Riverboat 1:50 (big SOB), the box art depicts her with a varnished hull, which I really like. However, after discussions with the above 2 members I decided to paint the hull white. Looks really good I reckon. Also it allows for the addition of a bit of filler between planks if you need to. Varnishing, whilst giving a beautiful natural finish is far less forgiving.
 
Also I have seen one of your current models complete at a show near where I live. The herring bone deck looks really nice I must say. If I build this model I would definitely go for this look on the uppers.
 
Chris