thomaslambo

Ok, if you have rats in the hold then you need to do something about it 
 
 
 

Wow, some work went into that trap
 
My way is easier just feed them to the crew, after all i am Captain Bligh haha

Ok, if you have rats in the hold then you need to do something about it 
 
 
 

Ok, if you have rats in the hold then you need to do something about it 
 
 
 

congrats Bob,
 
hope you will be be holding those little naggers soon. Already curious how your hold areas look like, when they come to life....
 
Nils

Me too Nils
 
Already have a plan to modify the metal sacks to display the rats better

Leave it to you Nils...great find (I was ready to make my own) 

Assembled a ladder and then dry fitted half the middle deck and the ladder to see how much room available around it, then placed some of the potato sacks in the free spaces
 

very nice Bob,
 
the food storage containments, sacks, casings, barrels, etc. are lovely, good job on the interior...
... little rats, mice,... on the sacks
 
 
Nils

Ohhh yes lots of dust to come lol.
Having stuff glued to the decks also makes it slow going when it comes to the hull planking as you have to be so careful
I've also ordered some tables and benches to make a galley in the bow section of the middle deck rather than just have the stove there on it's own
I will post a photo once i get them

I just finished the lids on the port side, so here is how they came out.
 

 

 

 
Now it is on to the bumpkins. I have a few weeks off as I am between jobs, so I am looking forward to having a lot of time in the shop. Luckily I have another job lined up so I can enjoy myself.

I had to do the same with my Captains Dining Cabin furniture.  No way I could glue it in after the main deck went on.  I actually used pins and epoxy to hold the furniture in...so far so good 
 
I have the cabin sealed shut with masking tape and used plastic wrap to cover the hammocks.
 
I can't believe the amount of dust generated by all the sanding required on the frames and planking.
 
Again, really nice details you put in the model as well as excellent placement    

Really nice details...where did you pick up the netting...the same place that you gave us the link to?
 
Are you going to wait until the planking is done before gluing all the stuff in? 

Cheers Boyd
                     All the cargo is already glued in place, i had to do it before the middle deck is put in place as i needed to have access from above to drill the holes and fit the eye bolts. It should all stay in place as i used Araldite to glue everything except the sails. The netting is for 1/16th scale tanks but if you stretch it a bit it works well on this kit. It was obtained from eBay.co.uk  from a seller named great-sales247 but they have withdrawn the listing probably because it's out of stock.
They have a page on the US eBay site but it's only listing the chains and rope as well. It might be worth contacting the seller to see if he's getting more http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-16-Scale-CHAINS-ROPE-for-Rc-Heng-Long-Tamiya-Tanks-Vehicles-Diorama-/181976659687?var=&hash=item2a5ea776e7:m:m3ZAsGanxwwqtEurUzG-lbw

I will be going overseas for a few weeks tomorrow, so no ship modelling. I thought I would post a quick update on stuff i've been working on.
 

 

 
The fo'c'sle deck has now been planked. Note that the marine walk is integrated into the fo'c'sle deck and has been planked with the deck. I am not installing any deck furniture until the ship is fully built up, which is why the deck looks so sparse. Only things that need to be there are there.
 

 
In my previous post I said that I had made four attempts at making the acrylic transom piece. Well, you can make that five attempts. After the last effort, which I thought was "definitive", I discovered several errors. The most serious was that the top piece was far too curved. Quite subtle and not seen in pictures. I only noticed it when I made a final inspection prior to commencing work on it. So I had to fabricate another one.
 

 
A new feature of the new transom piece is that the acrylic supports are sanded to make them cloudy. This will help diffuse the light from the LED's better.
 

 

 
This shows how the galleries in the transom piece are made. The entire piece has severe curves, so it is best built up in sections. The sections are then glued to the acrylic support. The advantage of sections is - if I make a mistake, I can just ditch the section without having to re-fabricate the whole part (which I have already done - five times!). Also, it is easier to bend sections around the curve.
 
You can see the pencil guides I use to help align window frames. The curved tops of the windows were made on my mill - I milled out a channel from a block of pear, then sliced off slices with my table saw.
 

 
The windows curve severely around the side of the transom piece. I decided to hide the split under a column. Once it is sanded, painted, and the column decoration goes on, the split will be invisible.
 

 

 
Completed, with wood filler to disguise holes. Whilst waiting for the putty to dry, I thought i'd test out what it would look like with lights on.
 
If we count all the failed attempts at transom pieces, it would have taken me about 10 days work to get to this point, on this piece alone!
 

 
Progress as of now. A number of flaws are evident - but nothing some sandpaper won't fix. The windows look slightly opaque - that's my layer of Kristal Kleer drying. Kristal Kleer helps hide any marks on the window - smudges from superglue, accidental cuts, etc. Also, it clings to the side of the frames by surface tension and makes each window pane slightly curved.
 
Note there are a couple of open windows. I took a photo of the painting below when I visited the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich. It is of the Royal George, but I have been taking reference off it:
 

 
The painting shows that the windows open by sliding upwards. I did the same with my transom piece. Hey - it's scratchbuilt. May as well show off.
 
Right now I am racking my brains to come up with a solution for making the column decoration. I have a few ideas. Watch this space, I will update it when I get back from holidays and try out a few things.

Thanks and same to you 
 
And if I wasn't in such a hurry (needed clean strips ASAP) I would have made the attachment removable by drilling two holes in the plate and taping the carbon fiber supports so I could screw it in using the same size/type screws that hold the plate down (much cleaner).
 
I think a splitter might be worth Byrnes time to design and manufacture as an upgrade item?   
 
Well, off to the shop to build a nice extension table for the saw 
 
Gotta love high quality power tools 

Thanks and same to you 
 
And if I wasn't in such a hurry (needed clean strips ASAP) I would have made the attachment removable by drilling two holes in the plate and taping the carbon fiber supports so I could screw it in using the same size/type screws that hold the plate down (much cleaner).
 
I think a splitter might be worth Byrnes time to design and manufacture as an upgrade item?   
 
Well, off to the shop to build a nice extension table for the saw 
 
Gotta love high quality power tools 

The gun port lids are just about finished. I have all the lids glued in place and the starboard side rigols are all installed too. I have some touch up to do on the port side and some rigols to still install. Here is how the starboard side came out, with the different lid types.
 

 

 

 

 
I went with white edges on the open port lids, so they are more pronounced.

Thanks and same to you 
 
And if I wasn't in such a hurry (needed clean strips ASAP) I would have made the attachment removable by drilling two holes in the plate and taping the carbon fiber supports so I could screw it in using the same size/type screws that hold the plate down (much cleaner).
 
I think a splitter might be worth Byrnes time to design and manufacture as an upgrade item?   
 
Well, off to the shop to build a nice extension table for the saw 
 
Gotta love high quality power tools 

George,
 
Excellent idea, I've done this with a few of my Proxon tools.  I move them from the garage work shop to my indoor work shop on a regular basis.

Thanks and same to you 
 
And if I wasn't in such a hurry (needed clean strips ASAP) I would have made the attachment removable by drilling two holes in the plate and taping the carbon fiber supports so I could screw it in using the same size/type screws that hold the plate down (much cleaner).
 
I think a splitter might be worth Byrnes time to design and manufacture as an upgrade item?   
 
Well, off to the shop to build a nice extension table for the saw 
 
Gotta love high quality power tools 

Well, after I got to planking the main deck (lots of custom width strips needed - same will be true for the hull)...I broke down and purchased a Byrnes Table Saw.
 
After a half hour in the shop I quickly realized I needed a splitter on this baby (similar to others listed here...but using the stock plate).  
 
So, I knocked out a quick and dirty splitter from a piece of carbon fiber (CF) sheeting laying around in the shop.
 
I cut the piece out on my saber saw and then used Epoxy to glue it to the plate on the under side (using two CF support pieces).  Ten minutes of fine tuning on the width and it works perfectly for knocking out precision strips    
 
I've got another stock plate coming in the mail.
 
By the way, I love this saw...incredible build quality and amazing accuracy with the stock miter (bought the extension arm) and rip fence.  Well worth the extra cash.
 
My thanks to Keith for starting this thread 
 
 
Here's a picture of the modification (I'm a big Shark fan in case you didn't notice) 
 
 

Thanks and same to you 
 
And if I wasn't in such a hurry (needed clean strips ASAP) I would have made the attachment removable by drilling two holes in the plate and taping the carbon fiber supports so I could screw it in using the same size/type screws that hold the plate down (much cleaner).
 
I think a splitter might be worth Byrnes time to design and manufacture as an upgrade item?   
 
Well, off to the shop to build a nice extension table for the saw 
 
Gotta love high quality power tools 

An update on the parrels - still experimenting so the following is not the actual completed product.  For example, the beads I used are just as they happened to come out of the packet.  Being cheap they are not graded to the same size and many are not evenly shaped etc.  For the real deal I will sort/grade these to get a consistent spacing.
 
The parrels are 0.75mm thick and the burning on the parrel pieces are caused by the saw blade - need a new one but will not ruin it cutting this hard wood.  I have sanded off some of the char, but then realised these would have been 'greased/tarred' and would end up looking blackish anyway - saved some effort .
 
I also found that stacking the parrels in the temp fixing jig caused the bottom ones to split and crumble when I was drilling so I have reverted to drilling  and contouring the holes (for the bearings) individually; more time consuming but less breakages.
 
Anyways - getting there.  The parrels are actually quite smooth; the close up and contrast I have added make them look quite rough edged  I am also going to try some privet (in the Boxwood family) to see if I get a better finish.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
     
 
     
 
  

Hi Pat, looking good
 
Re the parrals, here is a page from "The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" describing them in better detail. The drawing in AOTS is very misleading.
 
Cheers
Steve