thomaslambo

I got most of the answers to my questions from a couple of great books (The Armed Transport Bounty and Historic Ship Models).
 
So, I'm ready to start my build log and please feel free to stop in and offer advise.
 
Thanks,
 
Boyd
 
 

I recently purchased the Artesania Latina HMS Bounty kit and I have a few questions that I hope some of the MSW members might be able to help me with prior to starting the build.
 
Regarding this particular build; while I fully appreciate and respect historic accuracy and proper scale, I plan to put a little more emphasis on what looks good to me as opposed to accuracy and scale.  
 
I’m thinking about incorporating a few techniques of planking that may not have been used on the Bounty and aren’t addressed in the build instructions (e.g. joggling on the upper deck section, anchor stock pattern on the wales, and a three plank shift of Butts pattern on the decks and hull).
 
I’m also going to add walnut veneer stripping to the exposed plywood frame and false deck edges on the open side of the model as recommended in one of the AL Bounty build threads I read.
 
Here are the questions I would much appreciate some help or suggestions with.  I know facts can be hard to find on the original specs so any best guesses are welcome:
 
1-      Is this correct; the Bounty (actually the Bethia) was built in 1784 (18th century), so according to my reference books the average plank length appears to be around 20 to 24 feet for that period ship.  So, at 1:48 scale the length of each plank would be approx. 6 inches (24 feet or 288 inches = 6 inches at 1:48 scale conversion).   Note; this length works out well because the frames are 1.5 inches center to center. 
 
2-      What type of nail was used for deck and hull planking on the Bounty (the kit provides brass pins/nails)?
 
3-       What type of planking patterns were used on the deck and hull of the Bounty (were the deck patterns consistent on all deck levels)?
 
4-      What length were the planks on the deck and hull of the Bounty (not sure if the deck planks were typically shorter than hull planks)?
 
5-      Any help pointing me to build threads (doesn’t need to be the Bounty) that outline the detail steps on how to complete joggling on the upper deck of a ship would greatly be appreciated?
 
Any other tips, suggestions, warnings, ect., would be much appreciated.
 
Just in case any of the following members read this post I’d like to thank them for their valuable input on a couple of AL Bounty build threads I’ve read:
 
Captain Al – thanks for the AL Bounty build log, please keep it going.
 
Captain  Fisher – thanks for the AL Bounty build log, please keep it going.
 
Dan Vadas – thanks for your valuable advise/comments and pics on the above logs.
 
KeithW – thanks for your valuable advise/comments on the above logs.  Also, for the great pics you posted of your finished AL Bounty…..well done.    
 
Thanks,
 
Boyd

Well, after I got to planking the main deck (lots of custom width strips needed - same will be true for the hull)...I broke down and purchased a Byrnes Table Saw.
 
After a half hour in the shop I quickly realized I needed a splitter on this baby (similar to others listed here...but using the stock plate).  
 
So, I knocked out a quick and dirty splitter from a piece of carbon fiber (CF) sheeting laying around in the shop.
 
I cut the piece out on my saber saw and then used Epoxy to glue it to the plate on the under side (using two CF support pieces).  Ten minutes of fine tuning on the width and it works perfectly for knocking out precision strips    
 
I've got another stock plate coming in the mail.
 
By the way, I love this saw...incredible build quality and amazing accuracy with the stock miter (bought the extension arm) and rip fence.  Well worth the extra cash.
 
My thanks to Keith for starting this thread 
 
 
Here's a picture of the modification (I'm a big Shark fan in case you didn't notice) 
 
 

It's been over 8 weeks since I made a post on the log...so here comes a major update 
 
Main deck planking – and please forgive my lengthy narrative 
 
 
Before I begin I’d like to thank Chuck and Danny for their inspiring build logs as well as answering a few questions on 18th Century deck planking.  Also, thanks to Brian (GuntherMT) and Al (Captain Al) for your help and support 
 
 
Now that I’m starting the exterior (highly visible areas) of the ship I’m going to try and improve the quality of my build.
 
As such, I’ve replaced much of the AL kit supplied materials.  This includes the main deck and hull planking material, all the walnut material used for the masts and spars including the pre-cut pieces, the rigging ropes/lines, the cannons and carriages, and the stern lanterns.  
 
 
For starters I purchased Costello Boxwood from Crown Timberyard for the Main Deck.    I wanted harder wood and thicker planks to replace the 1mm soft Basswood that came in the kit.  This will allow me to better simulate methods used on many 18th century ships.
 
After some reading and several PM conversations with a few of the experienced builders here at MSW….I ended up constructing what I believe is something close to a typical 18th Century deck. 
 
The deck incorporates a Margin Strake with Scarph joints and commonly used Hook Planks to accommodate the major curves in the Bounty’s deck.
 
I used hand tools for almost all the work completed, with the exception of the curved Bow planks (used my Proxxon Scroll saw to rough cut the pieces from a Boxwood sheet).
 
Boxwood materials used: 5mm x 2mm strips used for the standard planks, 7mm to 10mm x 2mm strips used for the Margin, Waterway Filler and Hook Planks, and 2mm x (approx. 4 inch wide) sheets used for the curved bow sections of the Margin and Filler strakes.  
 
 
Here are the basic steps I took to complete the deck planking along with a few pictures:
 
 
Margin and Waterway Filler Strakes;
 
I began by installing the two outside most strakes, a Waterway Filler strake and the Margin strake.  I created cardboard templates for all the sections on both strakes and fitted them to the false deck.
 
Once I was happy with the template fit I cut the Waterway Filler and Margin strake pieces out of Boxwood strips and sheets. 
 
The Margin strakes have 3 sections on each side (held together with scarph joints), and the Waterway Filler has two planks on each side as it will be covered by a contoured Waterway strake after the deck is completed. 
 
I incorporated Hooked Scarph Joints on the Margin strake as this was standard practice in the 18th Century.  I first created hardwood templates for making the scarph joints.  This insured both sides of the joints were exactly the same shape.  I simply traced the template onto the plank ends and then cut them out with a razor saw and X-acto knive.  Then I carefully filed the pieces (using jewelers files) until they had a tight fit.
 
Once all the pieces were completed and fitted to my satisfaction I glued them in place (Waterway Filler first, then the Margin snugly up against it).  
 
I then laid out a grid pattern on the ply false deck to keep the planks aligned during installation.  The Port to Starboard lines are used to align the butt joints for the three shift of butts pattern, and the Bow to Stern lines are used to keep the strakes lined up evenly.
 
 

Tools used, Scarph template and rough cut Margin planks with penciled scarph joints ready to be cut out 
 
 

Margin Planks with Scarph joints cut out and ready for install
 
 

Margin and Filler strakes installed
 
 

Grid lines drawn in for planking alignment
 
 
 
 
 
Hook Plank Cutting and Fitting;
 
I calculated how many Hook Planks would be needed in the Bow and Stern (4 in the Bow - 2 on each side, and 12 in the Stern – 6 on each side). 
 
I then cut out cardboard templates for each hook plank.  Note; only 8 templates were needed to create 16 hook planks as the Port and Starboard planks were very close to the same size.
 
I used 10mm strips to cut out all the hook planks (using the template traced lines).  Once they were fitted to my satisfaction on each side I glued them up.
 
 
 

Tools used, and a couple Hook Plank templates with planks ready for cutting. 
 
 

Stern Hook Plank Fitting
 
 

Bow Hook Plank Fitting
 
 
 
 
Lay the Planks with #2B Pencil Simulated Tar lines;
 
I installed the hook and standard planks (24 feet or 6 inches to scale).  I used 5mm x 2mm planks and a couple of 6mm and 7mm planks in the center, which is fairly close to scale for about an 8 to 10 inch wide plank.
 
Note; every single plank laid on the main deck was beveled on at least one edge and many on both edges.  This is due to the curvature across the deck from port to starboard, and also to attain a tight fit between the strakes. 
 
Once the planks were cut and filed/sanded to shape I coated both edges with number 2B pencil (a method I saw in Chuck's build log) and then I glued them down with PVA.  
 
Also, I only glue the planks on the bottom (not on the edges)....as it allows the wood to expand and contract as the temperature and humidity changes        
 
 
 

Stern Hook Planks
 
 

Stern Hook Planks.  Note the wider King Plank in the center, I opted not to make it proud (raised) as it would cause issues with all the deck furniture.  The two planks on either side are wider as well...similar to Binder Planks but they're placed incorrectly (Binder Planks would be just outside the hatchways with no breaks in the strake other than butt joints).
 
 

Scarp Joint in the Margin 
 
 
 
 
Tree Nail Installation;
 
Prior to laying out the Tree Nails I did some fairly heavy sanding with 120, 150, 200 and 400 grit sandpaper to prepare the deck for tree nail installation and finishing.   
 
I proceeded to carefully lay out the nail pattern on the deck with pencil and a ruler (holding the ruler in place with masking tape).  After I was satisfied with the pattern I used a sharp punch to set a very small starter hole for each tree nail.  Using a hand pen vice drill I then drilled over 600 holes (with a 0.64mm drill bit).
 
Final preparation was to remove any residue in the holes and then very slightly reaming the top of the hole with an Awl to clean up any ragged/fuzzy edges at the top of the holes.
 
Once I was ready to fill the holes I took great care to use as little filler as possible to fill the holes...trying to avoid getting the filler in between the planks.  
 
Then a bit of sanding with 400 grit to remove the excess filler.  Followed by a nice rub down with a clean cloth to prepare the surface for the Teak Oil (two coats did the job nicely).
 
 

Tools and material used for Tree Nails.  The X-acto makes a great putty knife.
 
 

Tree Nails Marked
 
 

Tree Nail Holes....Drilling begins on over 600 holes (note fuzzy edges on hole rims that need to be removed)
 
 
 
 
Tree Nail Method Selection;
 
I spent considerable time testing two different types of tree nail methods; 1) drilled holes filled with wood filler,  and 2) bamboo tree nails (using my Byrnes draw plate) stained and pressed into drilled holes.
 
I went with Chuck’s wood filler approach after testing 8 different colors.  I ended up using Elmer’s Golden Oak filler.  Reason I choose this method; to me the wood filler approach looks more subtle then the tree nail method….I just like the look better.  
 
Interesting to note that depending on the wood finish you’re using it can have a profound impact on the final color of any given wood filler.  I spent hours messing around with several finishes and different wood filler colors until I came up with the color I liked.
 
I ended up using my personal favorite wood treatment Teak Oil combined with Golden Oak wood filler.  Note, I was leaning toward Maple until I used the Teak Oil on the Golden Oak, it darkened it up to exactly what I was looking for.
 
 
 

Boxwood Un-treated (no finish) 
 
 

Boxwood Treated (with Teak Oil on left and Poly on the right)
 
 

Two favorite filler colors (Golden Oak and Maple) finished with Teak Oil
 
 
 
Here is the finished Deck Planking 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

I've been doing quite a bit of research over the past 4 weeks.  But I was able to make some good progress.
 
Here are three items I completed 
 
A custom built anchor rope rack installed on the lower decks. 
 
Installation of the main deck.
 
Construction of the Launch, which was a nice diversion from the primary build… motivated by Captain Al and a couple errors he found 
  Note: A big thanks to MattS and CaptainSteve for information provided on the Launch…as well as inspiration from their awesome MS Bounty Launch build logs.  
 
 
Anchor rope rack, rope coils, and the bitts and bitter end:
 
This was the last detail item I needed to finish and install prior to gluing up the main deck.  This particular item (along with a couple others) could not be installed after the main deck and hull planking was completed.
 
I definitely took liberties on where I placed the rack and bitts and bitter end …as I wanted to place them where they could be seen. 
 
I built a custom rack with belay pins to hang the ropes on.  The rack is mounted on the back side of the lower deck in the Bow.  With the rack posts secured to the keel and lower deck beam.
 
I used a jig to coil and train the Anchor ropes in a similar fashion seen on many of the 18th century ships.
 
The Anchor rope is Syren product - Light Brown Rigging Rope .062 (1.57mm). 
 
I also secured the end of the rope (the bitter end) to large metal rings (bitts) bolted to the deck beams. 
 
 
Install the main deck:
 
This took 30 minutes to glue up. 
 
I used modified binder clips that were originally intended for hull planking.  But as I was considering the best way to hold the deck in place it occurred to me they were perfect for the job (with the addition of wood strips laid across the deck, held tightly in place by the clamps on each side of the frame). 
 
In the bow and stern I used metal planking clamps (they have threaded screws that hold them in place - small pilot holes were drilled for the screws).
 
I also left the masts in place to be sure the deck stayed aligned.
 
Note, the ease of installation for the main deck I would attribute to the effort that went into squaring and leveling the tops of the frames as the keel was laid.   
 
 
Launch construction:
 
The little launch was a fun build 
 
Note; I'm not going to use the Jollyboat because I don't like the look of the stacked launches.  Instead, I'll add additional details to the interior of the launch (rudder, sails, oars, etc).   
 
I made the following modifications to the launch:
 
1 Changed the top rails to be flat to allow Oar guide pins to be installed (instead of notches in the side rails). Along with adding a three piece top rail overlay that I stained dark to enhance the look.
 
2 Added a small grading panel to the bow.
 
3 Modified the Windlass crane in the stern  (AL refers to it as a Capstan – ????).  Either way, I shortened the support arms according to some information MattS used on his Launch build.
 
4 Covered the plywood deck edges with basswood strips as done on the Mother Ship.
 
5 Added several Belay Pins along the thwarts and top rails.
 
6 Planked the lower deck as opposed to scribing plank lines in the wood.
 
 
 
Here are some pictures of the above work….
 
 
Anchor rack and coiled ropes
 

This is the rope look I was trying to simulate
 

 
 

Note "the bitter end" connection to the "bitts" ring
 
 
Main deck install
 

Note; I installed dowels in all the frame/cross beam joins as I did on the lower and middle deck levels 
 

Modified binder clamps using wood planks across the deck to hold it down
 

 
 
 
 
 
Completed Launch
 

 

Here is a plan sheet that shows the two sections of the Windlass - the wench and crane arms.  You can see the rope that runs from the wench to the crane arm roller
 

Note the basswood trim covering the plywood edge on the floorboard deck 
 

 

 

Note; the shortened crane arm support in the stern (AL refers to this part as the Capstan).  Also the grating in the Bow.

Middle Deck Assembly
 
On the Middle Deck I planned to make extensive modifications and additions as this level has ample space/opportunity to do so.  As such, I’ll complete this work in two stages.
 
I’m estimating that I spent close to 150 hours on the model since my last post back in early May.  Some of the time was spent on other areas like; testing breadfruit materials, designing the main deck planking pattern, and thinking about techniques for planking the hull (I’m a big fan of Chuck’s methods and think I’ll probably give it a go….should get to it in a few months).  
 
So, here are the items I’ve completed in Stage One (parts of kit steps 13 – 20, along with custom modifications and additions):
 
Stern balusters and railings; I installed these prior to gluing up the kit bulkheads (easier to align and glue them in without the bulkheads in the way).  I assembled the three Baluster sections on a flat surface to be sure they were completely level and square.  Then I glued the assembly over the stair well.  Once that dried I attached the railings from the middle to the lower level.
Note; I’ll install the second (Bow) system in stage two after all the galley additions are completed (the assembly is already completed).
 
Kit Bulkheads; I moved the bulkhead assembly (kit steps 16 – 18) slightly a stern to accommodate the baluster and railing system design (basically moved it closer to center to allow traffic to pass on all sides of the stair well/railings).  This also required me to replace/lengthen the middle bulkhead panel (part 136).
 
In addition, I changed the window and door treatments for the kit bulkheads.  I used gratings for all the windows and paneled the bulkheads, cabin walls and doors with .06 x 5mm basswood strips.  I used a Number 2B Pencil on the edges of the strips to simulate very light tar lines.  I really like the look but it was very difficult to line up the tar lines on all the vertical walls and bulkheads where they come together in the corners (not all 5mm wide strips are created equal!!). 
 
Can anyone guess what I’m going to ask the Admiral to give me for Xmas 
 
Deck Gratings; this was a simple assembly for the two gratings (kit step 14).  Nothing exciting here. 
 
Cabin additions; this was the most significant addition to the middle deck (I spent close to 100 hours here).  Quite a bit of time was spent on brain storming design ideas and then cutting out and fitting cardboard templates. Some of my ideas for this stage were prompted from the Anatomy book...that mentions the Captains Dining Cabin (which doubled as a day room and clerks office) and the adjoining Pantry. 
 
The final additions included; a Captains Dining Cabin, a Pantry serving the Dining Cabin, and two additional forward cabins.  
 
For the Captains Dining Cabin; I added two back wall panels in between the frames. I built a dining table and wall shelf with maps and charts rolled up on the shelf.  I also framed and hung a map of Tahiti on the back wall. 
 
Note; I spent several hours trying to figure out the best way to open up the view into the Captains Dining Cabin….three failed template versions later the “Obvious” came to mind. 
 
For the pantry; I put together a shelf (also served as a bulkhead between the frames) and built a storage crate that sits under the lower shelf.  I also put some water/rum pitchers and serving bowls on the upper shelf's (they came in the furniture kit with the chairs I used around the dining table).
 
 
Here are some pictures of the finished work…..
 

Cabin additions (walls and bulkheads)
 

Kit Bulkheads (with modified wall treatments) 
 

Finished bulkheads and walls (dining table assembled)
 
 

View of all the finished assemblies
 

Green house side view of kit bulkhead
 

Stairway balusters and railings, note the increased space between the left railing and bulkhead wall (by moving the bulkhead to the stern side of the beam).  
 

Another view of the stairway
 

Another view of the stairway
 

Captains Dining Cabin
 

Close up of Dining Cabin, I painted the frames dark brown. Note the map of Tahiti on the wall.
 

Pantry to the Dining Cabin
 

Two Cabin additions
 

Another view of the additions, note the kit gratings
 

Hihg level overview, note the notches in the cross beam for the bilge pipes

On to the lower deck cabin additions…. not included in the instructions.
 
As a reminder for people that may not be familiar with this particular version of the Bounty; the model leaves the starboard side of the ship open for viewing.
 
So, this is when I did some simple scratch work to design and install some additional cabins in the lower stern and bow areas.  My ideas came from some of The Anatomy drawings (see the Bounty diagram images below) as well as pictures of other AL Bounty builds.  It took some time but I think it was well worth the effort. 
 
As I was designing the additions I wondered why AL didn’t expand on the interior details of the model as there is quite a bit of open space for making creative additions.  Perhaps they left the opportunity open for the builder to take their own poetic license 
 
Also, one other added benefit to adding cabins on both lower decks is you can fill the space behind them with filler blocks between the frames to aid in the very difficult hull planking process (particularly in the Bow and Stern areas).  The filler blocks will be hidden by the cabin walls    
 
Steps I took to design, build and install the cabins:
 
I first cut out templates for the wood façades and bulkheads/side walls (Bow and Stern) and carefully fit them to the space including cutouts for the overhead cross beams.
 
Then I spent some time laying out the design and look of the cabin facades.
 
Once I was happy with the templates and design style I cut out the wood parts using some birch panels I had left over from a previous RC airplane build.
 
Then I paneled the front side of each façade with the same planking used for the decks.  And then added the door frames, door handles and floor moulding.
 
On the stern cabins I left the middle cabin open for viewing some furniture I plan to put in the room.  The inside of each side wall was also paneled with planking.
 
Then I did one last fit to be sure everything was tight, squared everything up with angle blocks and glued in all the parts (facades and side walls).
 
Note; I used 1/4 x 1/4 inch supports across the back side of the facades that should insure they stay in place securely.  
 
 

Bounty lower decks
 

Bounty side profile
 
 

Template laid over birch ply - decided to extend the wall a bit
 
 

Bow wood facade being fitted
 

Stern wood facade being fitted
 
 
 

Another fitting in the stern prior to adding door handles and install
 

Another fitting in the bow prior to adding door handles and install
 

Gluing up the bow facade using angle blocks to keep it level 
 
 

Installed cabins in stern (just need to add the furniture pieces) 
 
 

 
 

Note the side walls in the stern middle cabin - inside walls have been planked like the cabin front
 

 
 
At this point I'm going to add the pins/dowels to each of the frame/beam joints for extra strength.
 
And then I'll check the alignment again of the main, middle and lower decks with the fore, main and mizzen masts, as well as bilge pipes and all the stanchions that drop below the main deck.....then on to installing the middle deck.
 
 
Stay tuned......

Hi Duff,
 
I've had my eye on this manufacturer....I'll follow your build with keen interest 

On to the lower deck cabin additions…. not included in the instructions.
 
As a reminder for people that may not be familiar with this particular version of the Bounty; the model leaves the starboard side of the ship open for viewing.
 
So, this is when I did some simple scratch work to design and install some additional cabins in the lower stern and bow areas.  My ideas came from some of The Anatomy drawings (see the Bounty diagram images below) as well as pictures of other AL Bounty builds.  It took some time but I think it was well worth the effort. 
 
As I was designing the additions I wondered why AL didn’t expand on the interior details of the model as there is quite a bit of open space for making creative additions.  Perhaps they left the opportunity open for the builder to take their own poetic license 
 
Also, one other added benefit to adding cabins on both lower decks is you can fill the space behind them with filler blocks between the frames to aid in the very difficult hull planking process (particularly in the Bow and Stern areas).  The filler blocks will be hidden by the cabin walls    
 
Steps I took to design, build and install the cabins:
 
I first cut out templates for the wood façades and bulkheads/side walls (Bow and Stern) and carefully fit them to the space including cutouts for the overhead cross beams.
 
Then I spent some time laying out the design and look of the cabin facades.
 
Once I was happy with the templates and design style I cut out the wood parts using some birch panels I had left over from a previous RC airplane build.
 
Then I paneled the front side of each façade with the same planking used for the decks.  And then added the door frames, door handles and floor moulding.
 
On the stern cabins I left the middle cabin open for viewing some furniture I plan to put in the room.  The inside of each side wall was also paneled with planking.
 
Then I did one last fit to be sure everything was tight, squared everything up with angle blocks and glued in all the parts (facades and side walls).
 
Note; I used 1/4 x 1/4 inch supports across the back side of the facades that should insure they stay in place securely.  
 
 

Bounty lower decks
 

Bounty side profile
 
 

Template laid over birch ply - decided to extend the wall a bit
 
 

Bow wood facade being fitted
 

Stern wood facade being fitted
 
 
 

Another fitting in the stern prior to adding door handles and install
 

Another fitting in the bow prior to adding door handles and install
 

Gluing up the bow facade using angle blocks to keep it level 
 
 

Installed cabins in stern (just need to add the furniture pieces) 
 
 

 
 

Note the side walls in the stern middle cabin - inside walls have been planked like the cabin front
 

 
 
At this point I'm going to add the pins/dowels to each of the frame/beam joints for extra strength.
 
And then I'll check the alignment again of the main, middle and lower decks with the fore, main and mizzen masts, as well as bilge pipes and all the stanchions that drop below the main deck.....then on to installing the middle deck.
 
 
Stay tuned......

Hi Guys,
 
A quick update...the Bounty has been in careful storage for some time now.
 
In the meantime, I've been working on a Garden Railroad project in my backyard (it's all Captain Al,s fault ).....and needless to say it's taken much longer than I thought it would. 
 
Assuming I can get all the track installed by the end if the year.....I hope to get back to the Bounty build early in 2018.  The planking is about 2/3 done and I'm very happy with the result so far. 
 
I'll make another post early in the new year...one way or the other. 
 
 
Dave,
 
It's a fine model and I'm happy with the AL kit.
 
FYI - I'm applying two 1 mm layer of planks on the hull because of the wide spacing of the frames (needs more support for the level of quality I'm after - exactly like my main deck). 
 
I just changed out some of the building materials as noted in my log.  I'm using Boxwood for the hull planks...about 40% of them are cut from sheets to accomplish the correct lateral bends needed in the bow and stern....this is what held me up for soooo long 
 
Cheers  

It's been over 8 weeks since I made a post on the log...so here comes a major update 
 
Main deck planking – and please forgive my lengthy narrative 
 
 
Before I begin I’d like to thank Chuck and Danny for their inspiring build logs as well as answering a few questions on 18th Century deck planking.  Also, thanks to Brian (GuntherMT) and Al (Captain Al) for your help and support 
 
 
Now that I’m starting the exterior (highly visible areas) of the ship I’m going to try and improve the quality of my build.
 
As such, I’ve replaced much of the AL kit supplied materials.  This includes the main deck and hull planking material, all the walnut material used for the masts and spars including the pre-cut pieces, the rigging ropes/lines, the cannons and carriages, and the stern lanterns.  
 
 
For starters I purchased Costello Boxwood from Crown Timberyard for the Main Deck.    I wanted harder wood and thicker planks to replace the 1mm soft Basswood that came in the kit.  This will allow me to better simulate methods used on many 18th century ships.
 
After some reading and several PM conversations with a few of the experienced builders here at MSW….I ended up constructing what I believe is something close to a typical 18th Century deck. 
 
The deck incorporates a Margin Strake with Scarph joints and commonly used Hook Planks to accommodate the major curves in the Bounty’s deck.
 
I used hand tools for almost all the work completed, with the exception of the curved Bow planks (used my Proxxon Scroll saw to rough cut the pieces from a Boxwood sheet).
 
Boxwood materials used: 5mm x 2mm strips used for the standard planks, 7mm to 10mm x 2mm strips used for the Margin, Waterway Filler and Hook Planks, and 2mm x (approx. 4 inch wide) sheets used for the curved bow sections of the Margin and Filler strakes.  
 
 
Here are the basic steps I took to complete the deck planking along with a few pictures:
 
 
Margin and Waterway Filler Strakes;
 
I began by installing the two outside most strakes, a Waterway Filler strake and the Margin strake.  I created cardboard templates for all the sections on both strakes and fitted them to the false deck.
 
Once I was happy with the template fit I cut the Waterway Filler and Margin strake pieces out of Boxwood strips and sheets. 
 
The Margin strakes have 3 sections on each side (held together with scarph joints), and the Waterway Filler has two planks on each side as it will be covered by a contoured Waterway strake after the deck is completed. 
 
I incorporated Hooked Scarph Joints on the Margin strake as this was standard practice in the 18th Century.  I first created hardwood templates for making the scarph joints.  This insured both sides of the joints were exactly the same shape.  I simply traced the template onto the plank ends and then cut them out with a razor saw and X-acto knive.  Then I carefully filed the pieces (using jewelers files) until they had a tight fit.
 
Once all the pieces were completed and fitted to my satisfaction I glued them in place (Waterway Filler first, then the Margin snugly up against it).  
 
I then laid out a grid pattern on the ply false deck to keep the planks aligned during installation.  The Port to Starboard lines are used to align the butt joints for the three shift of butts pattern, and the Bow to Stern lines are used to keep the strakes lined up evenly.
 
 

Tools used, Scarph template and rough cut Margin planks with penciled scarph joints ready to be cut out 
 
 

Margin Planks with Scarph joints cut out and ready for install
 
 

Margin and Filler strakes installed
 
 

Grid lines drawn in for planking alignment
 
 
 
 
 
Hook Plank Cutting and Fitting;
 
I calculated how many Hook Planks would be needed in the Bow and Stern (4 in the Bow - 2 on each side, and 12 in the Stern – 6 on each side). 
 
I then cut out cardboard templates for each hook plank.  Note; only 8 templates were needed to create 16 hook planks as the Port and Starboard planks were very close to the same size.
 
I used 10mm strips to cut out all the hook planks (using the template traced lines).  Once they were fitted to my satisfaction on each side I glued them up.
 
 
 

Tools used, and a couple Hook Plank templates with planks ready for cutting. 
 
 

Stern Hook Plank Fitting
 
 

Bow Hook Plank Fitting
 
 
 
 
Lay the Planks with #2B Pencil Simulated Tar lines;
 
I installed the hook and standard planks (24 feet or 6 inches to scale).  I used 5mm x 2mm planks and a couple of 6mm and 7mm planks in the center, which is fairly close to scale for about an 8 to 10 inch wide plank.
 
Note; every single plank laid on the main deck was beveled on at least one edge and many on both edges.  This is due to the curvature across the deck from port to starboard, and also to attain a tight fit between the strakes. 
 
Once the planks were cut and filed/sanded to shape I coated both edges with number 2B pencil (a method I saw in Chuck's build log) and then I glued them down with PVA.  
 
Also, I only glue the planks on the bottom (not on the edges)....as it allows the wood to expand and contract as the temperature and humidity changes        
 
 
 

Stern Hook Planks
 
 

Stern Hook Planks.  Note the wider King Plank in the center, I opted not to make it proud (raised) as it would cause issues with all the deck furniture.  The two planks on either side are wider as well...similar to Binder Planks but they're placed incorrectly (Binder Planks would be just outside the hatchways with no breaks in the strake other than butt joints).
 
 

Scarp Joint in the Margin 
 
 
 
 
Tree Nail Installation;
 
Prior to laying out the Tree Nails I did some fairly heavy sanding with 120, 150, 200 and 400 grit sandpaper to prepare the deck for tree nail installation and finishing.   
 
I proceeded to carefully lay out the nail pattern on the deck with pencil and a ruler (holding the ruler in place with masking tape).  After I was satisfied with the pattern I used a sharp punch to set a very small starter hole for each tree nail.  Using a hand pen vice drill I then drilled over 600 holes (with a 0.64mm drill bit).
 
Final preparation was to remove any residue in the holes and then very slightly reaming the top of the hole with an Awl to clean up any ragged/fuzzy edges at the top of the holes.
 
Once I was ready to fill the holes I took great care to use as little filler as possible to fill the holes...trying to avoid getting the filler in between the planks.  
 
Then a bit of sanding with 400 grit to remove the excess filler.  Followed by a nice rub down with a clean cloth to prepare the surface for the Teak Oil (two coats did the job nicely).
 
 

Tools and material used for Tree Nails.  The X-acto makes a great putty knife.
 
 

Tree Nails Marked
 
 

Tree Nail Holes....Drilling begins on over 600 holes (note fuzzy edges on hole rims that need to be removed)
 
 
 
 
Tree Nail Method Selection;
 
I spent considerable time testing two different types of tree nail methods; 1) drilled holes filled with wood filler,  and 2) bamboo tree nails (using my Byrnes draw plate) stained and pressed into drilled holes.
 
I went with Chuck’s wood filler approach after testing 8 different colors.  I ended up using Elmer’s Golden Oak filler.  Reason I choose this method; to me the wood filler approach looks more subtle then the tree nail method….I just like the look better.  
 
Interesting to note that depending on the wood finish you’re using it can have a profound impact on the final color of any given wood filler.  I spent hours messing around with several finishes and different wood filler colors until I came up with the color I liked.
 
I ended up using my personal favorite wood treatment Teak Oil combined with Golden Oak wood filler.  Note, I was leaning toward Maple until I used the Teak Oil on the Golden Oak, it darkened it up to exactly what I was looking for.
 
 
 

Boxwood Un-treated (no finish) 
 
 

Boxwood Treated (with Teak Oil on left and Poly on the right)
 
 

Two favorite filler colors (Golden Oak and Maple) finished with Teak Oil
 
 
 
Here is the finished Deck Planking 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

Hi Paul.
You are making a excellent progress with your build. It's nice to read what others have encountered and done makes it a much smother build.
Your build is very clean and tidy.
Will follow along on this one.
 
All the best.
Antony.

Guys,
 
Apologies for not replying sooner. I've been away for the weekend.
 
Thank you so much for your comments and input. It's much appreciated.
 
Captain Al, I've just been looking at your gallery photos. She looks stunning! You've done an amazing job. Are you planning to add the sails at any point or are you leaving her as is?
 
Boyd, your build log is one of the main inspirations that gave me confidence to take on this model so I'm thrilled that you're following my log. I'm sure I'll be pestering you with plenty of questions along the way! I'm genuinely looking forward to seeing the progress you've made since your last update, especially the planking.
 
Anthony, thanks you for your kind words and for following my build log. 

Congratulations on finishing your build. It looks amazing. Well done. Top notch job. 

Thanks guys for the kudos.  I was really a learning process from start to "finish."  Often times I just went on the theory that if there's a will there's a way.  Planking the hull as a good example.

Hi Al,
 
Congratulations on a beautiful build. Your build log has helped me considerably with my build of this same model.
I've looked through all your updated gallery photos and you've done a fantastic job. As others have said, It's all the more impressive being your first model!
 

Al, I'm just looking at this for the first time, and it looks great! Hard to believe that it's your first model!
(and glad to hear that you're thinking of starting on the Mayflower; I'll be looking forward to that, as we can 'work together on it')

Howdy Captain Al,
 
She is a real beauty!  Love all the detail.
 
Ciao for now

Whatever you call it, it is a great job. Nicely done.

Hi Al,
 
She looks beautiful, one of the best planking jobs I've seen on this very difficult hull type.  Put her in a case and enjoy the work you've done.
 
And thanks for all your help and support on my build...still years away from completion  

Welcome Paul,
 
And please accept my apology for the late response.  I only saw your comment on my build log yesterday.
 
A bit of a long story, but I've been wrapped up in a major backyard project and haven't been working on the Bounty lately or paying close enough attention to my MSW notifications.
 
All I can say is you’re doing a great job so far and paying close attention to detail.  Kudos to you for doing your homework by reading all the build logs for this excellent model. 
Like you, I was inspired by others that came before me…Captain Al and Captain Fisher, the only two logs available at the time, and masterful work to say the least.  So I doubt I would have taken on this build without their help.
 
You mentioned having “trepidation” about the planking of this hull.  That would be a perfect word for what was on my mind as I approached the task.  So here I am 9 months later and I’m still only two thirds done with the planking.
 
For many reasons I won’t go into on this log, I’ve chosen a rather different approach on planking the hull.  I’m quite tardy on making a build log post, but I'm planning to do an update soon to explain the technique I'm using as well as the progress I’ve made.
 
Keep up the great work and I look forward to following your log…and thanks for your kind words on my build log   
 
 
 
 

Hi GG,
 
Good eye on your part, and for the most part yes.
 
I realize English isn’t your native language (I applaud you for being multilingual) so I’ll try and simplify the rather lengthy explanation in my log    
 
I only used the false bulkhead plywood pieces (parts 100 and 118 fore and aft cabin bulkheads).  I replaced part 136 (lengthwise cabin plywood bulkhead) because I needed it ¼ inch wider.  The reason was to add more clearance between the aft bulkhead wall and the companion way opening to allow my custom railing system to be installed.  
 
Yes, I totally ignored the wall treatments (parts/suggestions in the kit) and used my own custom design (basswood wall planking, grid windows, etc).  I also eliminated the door on the fore bulkhead wall that opened into the bilge pipe 
 
See the pictures below that shows the added clearance for the railing system (basically the aft bulkhead was moved to the opposite side of crossbeam number 162, frame 36).
 
 

Note the aft bulkhead is on the opposite side of the crossbeam 162, frame 36 now.  If you look closely at the lower right corner you can see the notch that the builge pipe will fit into (this would block the opening of the door I removed - I discovered this during a trip to the Dark Side) 
 
 

Here is the fore bulkhead wall without the door (upper right hand corner)

I just posted my pix under Gallery.  Much easier than posting under a build log.  I never have learned how to caption a photo in the build log.  As for tips on planking, I'll be happy to help but it will be coming from a strict amateur.  For real technique see thomaslambo's work.  I'm not sure if he's posted pix of his planking work yet but it is exquisite and done the right way.

Hi Captain Al,
It's great to hear from someone whose build log has been a major help to me so far. 
To be honest, I think the reason I've been reasonably trouble free so far is because guys like you and the other Bounty builders have been so good at pointing out the potential pitfalls and difficulties in the build and errors in the instructions. Don't get me wrong, I've made plenty of mistakes so far but nothing I haven't been able to rectify. I'm glad I discovered that Titebond can be released with a little water and a hair drier . Your post has made me realise that I should be posting my mistakes too!
I'm thrilled to hear that you've finished your build and am really looking forward to seeing the updates in your build log 
If I'm honest, the planking fills me with trepidation so when I reach that stage I'd really appreciate any input you could give. 
All the best,
Paul

Great work Grendel.  I'm amazed at how smoothly things are going for you.  Unless of course you've not mentioned the tons of "adjustments" that were made.  I will assume that the precision in which you are planning and working things out in advance is responsible for this smooth going.  I wish i had paid more attention to things like frame leveling before I ran into the problems I did.  Anyway, I wanted to say congratulations; the hard part is done and the fun (planking and rigging) are ahead.  Take this with a grain of salt.  I just "finished" my build and will post some photos in my log soon.  I will explain the quote marks at that time.  LOL.