jbshan
-
Posts
1,222 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by jbshan
-
Well, Charlie, actually, since I believe that the Niagara was raised in 1876 and sent to Philadelphia where her exhibition building burned around her, all the original wood went up in flames. There may be a few token pieces of the hull that was raised in 1913 on board (I heard as part of a door in the Capt's cabin) but nothing of any significance, and in any case that hull I believe to have been Queen Charlotte.
-
Other than size, I would think you'd want to find a way to dull the white line a bit.
-
in re plans for Detroit, I don't think so. She was not really completed when Barclay took the squadron out to meet the Americans, he lost, and his base was shortly thereafter taken by the American forces. Like with the US brigs, I suspect if there were any plans and they got sent to Washington, the Navy Yard was burned the next summer. Queen Charlotte was built a few years earlier and there is some information on her, but I think no specific as built plans.
-
Don't forget to transfer the planking lines to the outer surface of the frames. They'll be a lot easier to see. 8-)- 228 replies
-
- 5
-
-
- gunboat
- model shipways
- (and 1 more)
-
Balsa as bow/stern filler
jbshan replied to Roks82's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I'm actually with Peter on this, for my own work. Please note the wiggle words I used. If balsa is all you've got, it might work for you, within limitations. -
Balsa as bow/stern filler
jbshan replied to Roks82's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
If you use it as a shape to help the plank go around the curve only, and not as something to fix the plank to, it might be OK. It wouldn't, I think, hold a pin or other physical fastener, those planks on an apple-bowed hull have a lot of strain on them, but I could be wrong. -
No, not the tools, just the fact that the real thing was done by holding the work piece or a template up to the place it needs to fit and marking it with a pencil or scribe. That scribe mark to scale would not be visible even under whatever magnification we can afford. It seems to come down to mark and cut a bit large then take it down to fit with sandpaper. Hope you didn't trip over the Bunny this AM, anybody. Makes a big mess with all those eggs.
-
I haven't been watching lately, but catching up now I could 'like' every post, Maury. For future reference, if you want to highlight that scarf joint, just knock off the corners on top of the rail with two licks of fine sandpaper. David Anscherl's Swan class series has an intriguing method of doing a rudder, if you have that series. It's one of those 'now how'd he do that' sort of things. And... I obviously hadn't gotten up to date when I wrote that. I was still a page out, but the Swan class series does have lots of excellent material, even if you aren't building that particular vessel.
- 525 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- anchor hoy
- hoy
- (and 1 more)
-
Now that's an interesting point, frolick. I had not heard that before. I have read that davits were a fairly new thing, and the quarter davits came before the stern davits. I suspect the qtr. davits on the replica vessel are as they are so a boat can be quickly launched in case of emergency (Coast Guard etc.). The literature (and HMS Victory) show wooden qtr. davits (they are straight timbers with sheaves at the outer end for the boat falls) that are pivoted at the butt end and can 'retract' toward the shrouds, supported by tackle that goes to the upper portion of the mast. Slacking off on this tackle allows the davits to reach further out, past the tumblehome, and the falls can then lower the boat to the water. I did my version of Lawrence with only stern davits, so you have given me justification for what was only an instinctual decision. The forward most port of eleven, Mike, would be mostly a bridle port, for handling the anchors. There is a lot of length between the forward gun port and the stem, and, while it was apparently not uncommon or unknown for the anchors to be handled over the rail on these smallish vessels, there is nothing to preclude adding a bridle port to make the job easier.
-
Are you sure that aftmost port is still at 76 degs.? It looks to my eye to be about 75 degs. 30 min. Just pulling your leg. One more fiddly bit to deal with, but ensconced in the 'no straight lines nor any right angles' challenge.
-
Melbourne Smith made reference to others of the Brown brothers' works of which we have more information in his new design for Niagara. He also made the hull long enough to accommodate the correct number of guns and carronades on deck, which the 1913 and 1933 versions did not, as Chapelle noted at the time. The story of Smith's reconstruction is in Seaways' Ships in Scale, end of '91, start of '92, for those who have the magazines or CD.
-
The painting was done shortly after the battle by one of the British officers. It shows Niagara from the stern and Lawrence from broadside. I got a glimpse of it in color and there seems to be no stripe of any distinction on Lawrence's side. She does show a typical head with headrails, billet with scroll, etc. which seems contraindicated by the textual information. Chuck, everything I have seen tends to the belief that Niagara was raised in 1876 and sent to the Philadelphia Centennial Exposition where she burned along with her protective enclosure. The vessel presumed to be Queen Charlotte was destroyed in a flood at Buffalo after a career as a merchant vessel. The Queen Charlotte herself was raised in 1913, identified as Niagara and restored and put on display. The current restoration has no particular identity with that 1913 vessel and may be as close as we are going to get to the 1813 brig. That's all off the top of my head and subject to change after consultation with my notes, but that's my take on it.
-
They are described in more than one source as being exactly the same. Dr. Usher Parsons: 'precisely alike...built and rigged precisely alike'. They were also armed exactly alike, 2 12 pdrs. and 18 32 pdr. carronades for each vessel.
-
Some of us add squared up blocking to the joint between bulkhead & center plate, to keep things aligned if it gets knocked about. Don't forget to trim the heels of your bulkheads to match the bearding line. That's part of fairing the frame, but you can do it now if you like.
-
Your fingers are 55 times too big to do the thing the way they did on the original. You got to be creative.
-
Just a little side note. This ship is noted as being the first with four funnels. She indeed held the Blue Ribbon for a while. It seems the folks wanting to emigrate would so much rather sail on a ship with four funnels as being a 'better ship' that some ships were built with a false fourth funnel to attract ticket sales. As an example, the fourth funnel on Titanic was used to exhaust gases from the galleys. An additional function on Titanic was to improve her righting arm by virtue of the weight of the funnel tube high up on the structure.
- 2,625 replies
-
- 6
-
-
- kaiser wilhelm der grosse
- passenger steamer
- (and 1 more)
-
Fancy seeing you here. I'll keep an eye on RichieG's as well.
-
They seem to have left out some helpful things, like some sort of framing aft for the end of the bulwarks and transom and something to help you get that bow right. (Remember, I didn't use the plywood, I framed things up individually.) I inserted framing pieces into the stern block around the ports in the transom and for the 'fashion pieces' at the corners and ran my inside the top timbers piece back to that. At the bow, I had to pad out the whole block area, and I extended the padding up to the rail. I'm not sure if it would have helped you with the ply, but I have an s-shaped section just below the rail at the bow, giving them a slight flare. I seem to recall also having egregiously uneven top timbers (bulwark extensions). I had to sand back and pad them to get a smooth curve. Just look along the line of the ply and you can see if it wobbles in and out. That last port you'll just have to sand things back to match the port opening. I didn't wind up with that problem, I don't know why. Perhaps by not using the ply I made a mistake there and it actually helped me instead of my usual mistake that hurts.
-
Something is wrong with these measurements (SOTS kits)
jbshan replied to Ulises Victoria's topic in Wood ship model kits
Measure the masts, the beam, all that sort of thing. Maybe the ships are right but the box art and marketing are wrong. -
Sorry if this is not helpful, but I've always preferred 'splice the main brace.'
-
I've been watching for a while, Nils. Wooden sail is more my area than steel and steam, but maybe I can make a comment from time to time that is helpful. Magnificent work, a Grand Old Dame, even if she does have a man's name.
- 2,625 replies
-
- 5
-
-
- kaiser wilhelm der grosse
- passenger steamer
- (and 1 more)
-
Yes, the grating allows the water to drain out (onto the deck aft?) while keeping the landing of the ladderway dry. You sometimes see gratings around the helm of a ship, laid onto a solid deck, purely for traction. Also, wood is slightly less slippery than steel, at least in a time when you didn't have miracle paint finishes like today.
- 2,625 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- kaiser wilhelm der grosse
- passenger steamer
- (and 1 more)
-
A lot of your post I'm going to let you check out your other sources as they are more fitting to the particular kit. If you can make sure of the squareness of one of those bulkheads, then use the spacer to the next one, the distance is so small I don't think you could get too far off.
-
I sometimes forget that a kit may be intended to be done in a particular way that is different than either prototype practice or the somewhat resembling manner that kits I have done have used. I also don't hesitate to change the kit if either the appearance doesn't fit my eye or the construction technique seems to have a better alternative.
-
OK. I looked at the instructions. You are to plank over the rabbet strip, not up to it. Apparently you have to thin the former plate to match the rabbet strip. The keel goes on top later (p. 15 center para left side). Most of my comments will not be helpful.
Our Emblem ®
