jbshan
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jbshan got a reaction from Nirvana in Filler for Natural Wood?
Test your concoction on a test panel before you rely on it. Staining over glued/filled surfaces and natural surfaces can give irregular results. If you're painting over, the glue-filled will work much better.
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jbshan got a reaction from Elijah in Arrow by mikiek - FINISHED - Amati - 1:55 scale - American Gunboat
I've had a bottle of 90% isopropyl on the work bench for a while now. It's a handy arrow to have in your quiver. If the joint doesn't come apart, just add more alc. It doesn't raise the grain and hardly mars the wood if you're careful. Also handy for removing glue overrun without compromising the joint.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in Arrow by mikiek - FINISHED - Amati - 1:55 scale - American Gunboat
I've had a bottle of 90% isopropyl on the work bench for a while now. It's a handy arrow to have in your quiver. If the joint doesn't come apart, just add more alc. It doesn't raise the grain and hardly mars the wood if you're careful. Also handy for removing glue overrun without compromising the joint.
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jbshan got a reaction from Canute in CONSTITUTION c. 1812 by samueljr - scale 1:76.8 - cross-section
The placing of ports one above the other bothered me, too, so I checked a little bit. I think because the upper deck ports are on a spar deck and not part of the original structure of the hull, indeed some wind up directly above the gun deck ports, especially in the waist.
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jbshan got a reaction from coxswain in Prince de Neufchatel by Heronguy - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Save and refrigerate the blood. You can use it to coat the gun carriages or something when the time comes. Just call it 'Iron Oxide'.
Yah, I had no tools either. I think I worked with the block hanging over the end of the table or something like that.
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jbshan got a reaction from Chuck Seiler in Prince de Neufchatel by Heronguy - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Save and refrigerate the blood. You can use it to coat the gun carriages or something when the time comes. Just call it 'Iron Oxide'.
Yah, I had no tools either. I think I worked with the block hanging over the end of the table or something like that.
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jbshan reacted to Heronguy in Prince de Neufchatel by Heronguy - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Good point about the duck's head Joel! I'll get a picture of the PdN in front of me.
I tried marking the block and planning the cutting before glueing but I don't have any particularly effective way to hold the block while sawing - no decent bench vise or clamping surface. Also I have pretty poor 3D visualization skills to confidently get much material off the block even if I could hold it. This is my 2nd (ever) attempt at shaping a block and I blamed my original problems on "concrete wood". However this stuff was about the same - no excuse there.
The good news is that the carving knife is really working well and I can probably finish the rough shaping in a hour as long the I can limit the blood loss through my thumb. It seem carvers have cute little leather thumb guards!
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jbshan got a reaction from Canute in Ships Pumps
Make a scale figure for checking purposes. The pump brake or handle wants to be at waist height or thereabouts.
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jbshan got a reaction from druxey in Ships Pumps
Make a scale figure for checking purposes. The pump brake or handle wants to be at waist height or thereabouts.
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jbshan got a reaction from Heronguy in Prince de Neufchatel by Heronguy - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Don't look at a picture of a duck while you're cutting away.
I take it the blocks are already glued in? I did blocks on my Niagara model by marking the bulkhead shape on the front surface and the top (deck) shape from the deck, then cut that much off with a coping saw. It gives you some parameters.
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jbshan reacted to Heronguy in Prince de Neufchatel by Heronguy - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64
Preliminary results.
The file was useless (partly I think because I have to cradle the hull in a pillow to prevent breaking it so the pressure on the file isn't applied to the wood)
The razor saw is awkward and can't make deep cuts without binding.
The sand paper is very slow at removing material - I'll us it for final shaping and smoothing.
X-acto knife - ok but not great.
And the winner is La La ... oops I mean the flexcut carving knife! Now I just have to hope the stern block end up looking like a bit of hull and not like a duck's head.
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jbshan got a reaction from Canute in India ink as primary paint?
Cons: (?)
If there is some glue on the surface, does the ink show up different where the glue spots are? Paint will go right over and result in a uniform coating.
If you still need to do some gluing, can you scrape back any ink or do you need to, in order to get the glue to penetrate and give a good joint? Some folks like to paint pieces individually then assemble for good color separation.
Pros: (?)
Black India Ink does a pretty good job at imitating ebony, an evil wood and to be avoided, but it's a nice rich black.
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jbshan got a reaction from Canute in Are you an NRG Member???
Brian, I suspect it's a balancing act between cost of membership and journal and the number of copies sold/members. There would always be a certain number who would refuse to continue their association if the price went up, even a little bit, and no matter how well-explained or desperately needed.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in PLANKING STEAM TANK
I've just been reading about planking a ship in 1760. Their box was very similar to the USN one, although made of wood. I'm thinking they were repairing wooden ships' boats with that 1 X 2?
My book talked about one hour per inch thickness, plus an hour for luck. Oak plank, up to 9 inch thick, up to 60 feet long. A bit different animal.
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jbshan got a reaction from mtaylor in India ink as primary paint?
Cons: (?)
If there is some glue on the surface, does the ink show up different where the glue spots are? Paint will go right over and result in a uniform coating.
If you still need to do some gluing, can you scrape back any ink or do you need to, in order to get the glue to penetrate and give a good joint? Some folks like to paint pieces individually then assemble for good color separation.
Pros: (?)
Black India Ink does a pretty good job at imitating ebony, an evil wood and to be avoided, but it's a nice rich black.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in India ink as primary paint?
Cons: (?)
If there is some glue on the surface, does the ink show up different where the glue spots are? Paint will go right over and result in a uniform coating.
If you still need to do some gluing, can you scrape back any ink or do you need to, in order to get the glue to penetrate and give a good joint? Some folks like to paint pieces individually then assemble for good color separation.
Pros: (?)
Black India Ink does a pretty good job at imitating ebony, an evil wood and to be avoided, but it's a nice rich black.
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jbshan got a reaction from vossiewulf in India ink as primary paint?
Cons: (?)
If there is some glue on the surface, does the ink show up different where the glue spots are? Paint will go right over and result in a uniform coating.
If you still need to do some gluing, can you scrape back any ink or do you need to, in order to get the glue to penetrate and give a good joint? Some folks like to paint pieces individually then assemble for good color separation.
Pros: (?)
Black India Ink does a pretty good job at imitating ebony, an evil wood and to be avoided, but it's a nice rich black.
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jbshan reacted to Mirabell61 in SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse 1897 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:144 - POF - first German four stacker of the Norddeutscher Lloyd line
Update
Build log part 54
railing has been added to the mid ship platform, and funnel 3 + 4 understructures have the lights fitted. Also all vents and gratings fitted.
The upper platform is supported from the lower deck at both outer sides. These supports fit between two davits in order to enable their swing function...
Nils
foreground (bottom, left) are the boats winches
The command bridge area now requires some attention
I`m pleased with the progress, its not so very far more to go...
the model is comprising 86 vents in different sizes
must be thousands of "rivets" holding the plates together...
one of the deck-crew taking a rest on the aft anchorchain gear
deck curvature can be noticed here...
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Arrow by mikiek - FINISHED - Amati - 1:55 scale - American Gunboat
If you wind up needing it, you could fill in the space between the ends of the 1st layer plank and the keel piece with blocking, then put the 2nd planking over the blocking. Niagara, I believe, uses blocks to fill in at the bows so the plank has something to lay on and help shape it.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Arrow by mikiek - FINISHED - Amati - 1:55 scale - American Gunboat
It should work as long as you leave a flat surface for the stem, stern and keel. It'll basically look like normal construction. Do a little sketch to check out the concept.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Arrow by mikiek - FINISHED - Amati - 1:55 scale - American Gunboat
If you don't use the full width of both plank layers it may indeed throw something off elsewhere. Additionally, the kit may, by the scant supply of bulkheads, require a thick plank layer for support, and if that is supplied in a less expensive wood, they can use a more desirable wood for the veneer outer layer.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Arrow by mikiek - FINISHED - Amati - 1:55 scale - American Gunboat
There is some variation there. Perhaps the OCD kicking in preventing you from seeing it. Haliburton has a good idea to try.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Arrow by mikiek - FINISHED - Amati - 1:55 scale - American Gunboat
Just keep on a plankin', Mike. Try to keep the variations going, too. Grab a few full length ones of different colors and make sure to switch back n' forth from plank to plank.
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jbshan got a reaction from thibaultron in Arrow by mikiek - FINISHED - Amati - 1:55 scale - American Gunboat
If the deck edge seems a nice fair curve, perhaps the solution is to pad out where needed on the bulkheads to match the deck edge. Add a shape like this: (( to the bulkhead and sand back to get a nice curve.
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jbshan got a reaction from toms10 in Filler for Natural Wood?
Test your concoction on a test panel before you rely on it. Staining over glued/filled surfaces and natural surfaces can give irregular results. If you're painting over, the glue-filled will work much better.
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