trippwj

Happy Birthday Rich! Hopefully you'll get a NWS as a gift.

Oh no ...... tell me that wasn't a moose!
 
Anyway, no ratlines ????  Might as well move on --- nothing to see here.
 
JUST KIDDING    .
 
We fancy ourselves as model shipwrights......... and she's definitely a ship!  Just stumbled on aboard and glad I did.  Love that finish on the hull as well as the cabin structure.  Will sit in the back row and observe, if you'll have me.  I don't want to get hit by the broom.

Hi Augie,
 
Nice to see you thinking ahead on how to improve the kit blocks.
 
When I made my block tumblers, I made three of them with different grits (180, 400 & 600). I find that spinning the blocks for three minutes each in the coarser two and five minutes in the finest one, produces a really nice finish without having any disappear in a pile of sawdust. You could try using your existing device as a template for making some more canister bodies. Either PVC plumbing pipe, or cardboard mailing tubes are a good starting point for this.
 
Of course, you could always simply replace your kit blocks with some from Chuck instead.........................just sayin'.
 
(Sent from Winchester, UK)

Hello all,
 
I am going to step away from sails for this build and build a boat I’ve wanted to build for a long time.
 
When I started modeling boats I was in an RC boat club in Indianapolis. We sailed One Meters in the summer and in the winter we ran scale RC boats in indoor swimming pools.  That’s when I saw a picture of a fire boat called “The City of Oakland”.  I wanted to build it 25” long (1:48 scale) with working water pump and monitors.  That was about ten years ago.  Since then I have been searching the web for all I could find.  And what I found changed my mind as to the build.
 
City of Oakland

 
The City of Oakland was originally the yard tug HOGA YT-146.  The keel was laid down 7/25/1940, Launch date was 12/1/1940 and it was delivered to Pearl Harbor 5/1/1941.
 
(This is from the web)  City of Oakland, ex-Hoga, is of exceptional significance in American history as the only known surviving yard craft present at Pearl Harbor during the Japanese attack on the U.S. Pacific Fleet on December 7, 1941.
 
Hoga fought fires on Battleship Row for 72 hours.  The actions of the tug's skipper and crew did not go unrecognized. On February 1942, ADM. Chester A. Nimitz, CINCPAC, commended McManus, his men, and their tug for a job well done:
 
 “For distinguished service in line of your profession as Commanding Officer of the Navy Yard Tug HOGA, and efficient action and disregard of your own personal safety during the attack.... When another ship was disabled and appeared to be out of control, with serious fires on the fore part of that ship, you moored your tug to her bow and assisted materially in extinguishing the fires.  When it was determined that the damaged ship should be beached, as there was serious danger of her sinking in the channel, you assisted in the beaching operations in an outstanding manner.  Furthermore, each member of the crew of the HOGA functioned in a most efficient manner and exhibited commendable disregard of personal danger throughout the operations.”
 
Placed on loan to the Port of Oakland, California, in 1948, it was returned to the navy after 40 years of service.  Recently it was awarded to the City of North Littlerock, AR.  to be in their museum. At present it is in a boat yard near San Francisco being prepared for transport to North Littlerock  
 
Hoga is one of about 30 of the Woban YT-138 class.  The problem in this build is that there are no line drawings of this boat.  I have many, many pictures and internal equipment drawings but no lines.  I hope to build the Hoga as it was at Pearl Harbor prior to the attack.  I got the build plans for the Billing’s kit and I will scale the bulkheads and keel to 1:96 and see where to go from there.   So wish me luck and follow along with me. 
 
Bob
 
Hoga at sea trials

 
Hoga at Paerl Harbor

 

Saturday, June 8, 2013
 
After much searching and cursing I found yesterday the "bloody boats" . . they were where I left them time ago, watching me without hiding . .
 
In conclusion now there is nothing missing. So when I'll finish with the new issues of the 12 Apostles, I will resume this model immediately.
 
I have to admit that I don't know my emotional reactions if I didn't find them . . the idea to invest another two/three months of work to rebuild them was something like a nightmare . . friendliness, Jack.

Now that my Triton cross-section has been completed, I finally  opened the Essex box, which I have had for a few weeks, for a serious look, after a couple of quick peeks. Since it is my intention to alter the kit in various ways, as I did with Fair American and Syren, I won't get involved with a detailed review or critique of the various kit parts. I understand that MS is changing some of the kit items already. I don't know whether those changes will be given to those, like me, who already have the kit.
 
My overall impression is that the kit contains good plans, detailed instructions and a lot of laser cut wood and photo etched parts, as well as metal castings whose utility is unknown to me at this point. I've made some preliminary decisions as to how I will proceed, but a lot remains to be decided as I spend more time with the project. I have the AOTS book on Essex by Portia Takakjian, which I expect to use in conjunction with the kit plans, but I have no idea yet as to how or how much. 
 
The one thing that I know for certain is that I will replace the kit basswood with boxwood for the hull planking not covered by copper and with holly for the deck planking. I also expect to carry out the quarterdeck and forecastle deck framing to a more detailed level and to do that with boxwood. It is likely that I will also replace much, if not all, of the kit deck furniture with scratch built boxwood parts. Finally, it is my intention to fully mast and rig the model, whether or not MS issues a second kit for that purpose.
 
I've been looking forward to this build for over a year now and I'm really eager to get started. I hope my old friends on MSW, and new ones as well, will want to look in as I go forward.
 
Bob

Martin, Popeye and all of you how I may have failed to name,
 
I want to thank all of you for your support and encouragement.  Without you all I could not build the models I do.
 
Thanks again    
 
Jay my next build is the HOGA YT-146. a navy yard tug from WWII.
 
Bob

Wayne,
 
Thanks for stopping by...
 
As to the selection of the correct shade of black; I got courageous and just decided for myself......
 
I must say I'm a bit envious of your new location.  The coast of Maine, particularly the Bar Harbor area is one of my favorite places.  My avatar is a pic taken at South Harbor....
 
Hope no one objects....a few pics from my last trip to the Maine Coast
 
And some progress on the tug......no adhesives were used in the setting up of these pics..   all dry fit for location and color choices....... :D :D :D
 
 
Cheers,
 
Jim
 

That's a beautiful area, I took my wife up to Maine shortly after we were married. We went in September to avoid all the summer people from Mass and Conn.  I should have remembered from my Navy Days that the state rolls up the sidewalks after Memorial Day weekend!  Oh well we had a great time any way and I had a good time showing her my old stomping grounds!   
 
Tim

sounds crazy having to pay for adds that want to make you spend even more
 
thanks Edwin
 
thanks Wayne  
 
Popeye we have similar tastes although I think we love different types of music
 
MIck addicted to TV and building I think there are worse addictions in life
 
offcourse Robbyn. however much I like building if it was the only thing I could do al day I would get bored with it.
 
 
another door done 2 more to go and 3 small windows and 3 large ones and some wall planking and I can put the last bit of wiring permanently in .

Thanks guys!!  And to mini-celebrate, I'll make some BACON and eggs for lunch!!!    (Beer and fish sticks for dinner~~  lol!)
 
 
Yesterday I managed to complete all 3 deck structures- I'll get some pics up here in a sec.

hmmmm....but I like TV, and reality shows, but I also like building, and find sanding a bit of a zen experience....am I allowed to enjoy both?

The Light bulb (starts) to come on!!
 
After several models and practice attempts to have ratlines look like ratlines rather than Halloween decorations.  (for a while I thought I would specialize in ghost ships  
 
I have finally honed in on a method of doing ratlines which I wanted to share because it gives a great result and is easier, less stressful and faster than what I had been doing.  
 
I have not invented anything new, simply used the bits and pieces from various (too many to attribute) sources.    Many of the pieces are on this website, so thank you to all who have posted these helpful techniques.  It may work for you in full or in part.
 
Please feel free to modify this technique to work for you and if you can post any changes or whatever your experience with it is.
 
It actually seems simple.
 
1) Make a card template with the horizontal rats and vertically angled shrouds 
 
Mark or color code the card into sections  defining the order to do the ratlines:  1st group(three rats) the Upper, lower and middle ratline,  2nd group (two rats) , split those areas so you have two more rats at approx 1/4 and 3/4 of the way up the shroud   3rd group (4 rats) ; split the quarters and so on so eventually you have ratted every other row.  nth group (double the amount of rats as the last group)   This shows trends towards spiderwebs before they show up.   THere is a great picture of color coding the horizontal rats in this forum. (thanks )
 
 
I pin it to the shrouds with some mini clothespins.  I may experiment with threading it through the back, around a shroud and back through the card in a few places. 
 
 
2) Use a needle to thread the outer and first shroud.  Use PLENTY of string.   Trying to tie knots with minimal string leads to un-aligning the ratlines.  For the cost of an extra spool of thread, it's worth it!
 
3) Tie a hitch (the kind where the rope goes around the shroud the same way for both loops) around the first inner shroud but NOT the outer shroud (you may need to adjust it to avoid spiders.   AT this point you have the thread going through the outer shroud and a hitch on the first inner shroud. 
 
4) Thread the needle through the next shroud and tie another hitch.  and so on : at the end, Do NOT tie the outer shroud.
 
5) Make any minor adjustments on the inner shrouds.   Dab with diluted white glue.
 
6) Adjust the outer shrouds.  Follow the same general row sequence of splitting the shroud length in half for each
 
7) Use a Cow hitch, having the loop go from back (inboard) to front (outboard), over the ratline, then inboard again.  This order gives a nice finished look on the rat/shroud and hides the bitter end after cutting the excess line
 
8) tighten the ratline by pulling inboard NOT fwd or aft; so the end to be cut is somewhat hidden behind the shroud and the shroud stays aligned while tightening the rat.
 
9) Dab diluted glue on the outer shroud knots
 
10) cut the ends.
 
 
Advantages:  
 
Using a needle :
Tying knots with the thread in a needle is much easier and faster than with fingers and tweezers.
The needle makes it easier to keep the ratlines horizontal
Threading the rat through the shroud provides just enough tension to hold the ratline taunt while you tie a knot
Threading the shroud provides horizontal stability
 
Leaving the outer shrouds for last,.
 Ability to make final adjustments on the outer shrouds.
 
 
 
 
Ira
 
 

Thanks Popeye.   Now here’s the rest of it.
 
I did not like this boat when I started it but the more I built the more it grew on me.  I titled it the Malabar Jr.  but I modified it so much that it is no longer a Malabar Jr. it’s just a yawl, Y’all.
 
First the profile.

 
And a bow shot.

 
The foredeck

 

 
And the cockpit.

 
Bob

I only watch the news and my crime shows.......the rest of my time is devoted to  music,  video gamimg and my builds......and of course, chatting on here with you guys and gals

Did a bit of work on her this weekend- just a few hours.  The frames have been braced and glued, mast holes reinforced and the stern blocks and timbers glued in.
 
The stern block was a bit for a challenge for me both from the perspective of trying to make sure that symmetry was maintained as well as trying to understand exactly what was needed.  The photos were taken before final sanding.
 
I'm not sure its right, but I have faith in my ability to make it fit when the time comes.
 
I seem to be overly critical of this kit.  This is a habit I have to break. 
 
A few photos:

 

Wayne- thanks!!!!  It's been a long, sloooow build, but definitely have made some progress lately!  Pretty soon it'll be masts & rigging!!!
 
Quick job update:  the place in Dahlgren called back and said all was excellent!!!  They're checking with their customer, then they'll bring me out for an actual interview as soon as next week possibly!!!!!!    Praying all stays well!!!    
 
Thank you all for the support you have shown me!  Even if this one doesn't turn out, I know that I have lots of fellow builders wishing me the best, just as I wish all of you the best!!  So we'll see soon enough!  

Hi Andy - I know it seems weird to go back and build something again...but when I consider the beauty of the vessel and the deficiencies of the Corel kit, and the existence of the Goodwin book....it is a tempting idea....anyway, such a project would be impossible for me at the moment....I have a few kits left to build and a lot of tools to buy (not to mention a bigger house with a proper workshop).....
hamilton

Brace Winches
 
The winch drums were cut from pine planed down to 1/8 inch thick.  Each pair of drums was the diameter determined for it's yard and each had a slot cut in it so the brace could be threaded and knoted inside the drum.  Each drum was separated by a flange made from compact discs, CDs.
 

When the drum was assembled, a 1 inch hole was bored in it's center, and a servo horn was mounted at the bottom of the assembly.  The forward drum (right) is the main & mizzen mast winch; from the bottom up, in pairs, are the main-corse, crossjack, and main-tops'l.  The aft drum is the foremast winch with the fore-corse and fore-tops'l braces.
 
 
To the right top of the winches in the photo you can see some silver colored cylinders; those are the springs that will maintain tension on the braces.  There are 5 on each side.  The large servo at the right of the photo will control the fore-n-aft sails; heads'ls, spanker, etc.
 
Steering
 
The rudder head is very close the to stern of the ship, just as the real one is; so I don't have the space to mount a T type servo arm with hard push-pull linkages to steer the model.  Instead, I mounted a tiller on the rudder and will mount beams with blocks to route the tiller rope to the steering servo; a high-torque, metal geared type.  In the images you'll see some cup-hooks in wood blocks hot-glued to the hull to test the theory.  Beams will be epoxied in place and the tiller rope guides will be mounted on them, that way it won't pull off the the hull.
 
 
With the servo hard-a-port, and hard-a-starboard.
 

Bob- my pins are 5/16 (8mm), which would correspond to about 20in on the real thing.  The BOM for the kit calls for part # WP0410, but doesn't say what size (part doesn't come up in a search on ME).  However, the 12mm (15/32) would make the pins 30in in real life, which does sound too big.  I heard typical belaying pins are between 16-18 inches in length, so by that measure the 8mm would be correct.
 
Btw, the fife rails are complete, as is 90% of the deck furnishings.  I only have the hatch on the companionway to complete, along with the ship's bell and riding bitts on the bowsprit (ladders as well, but I'll do those after I install the caprail).
 
John- thanks for checking in!!!  That's awesome that you got to go to the Niagara museum- I was there in Erie a loooong time ago in high school and got to go aboard.  Little did I know that I would be building her decades later...    Good luck with the Morgan- that's one kit that grabs my interest as well- maybe a future build.    
I see you're in Willis, TX?  You're a couple of hours south of me.  lol!  
 
Anyway, I'm going to try to get the deck stuff finished this week, but of course I'm still dog sitting, and gf + neighbor are still out of town (may come back this weekend, but we'll see).  Phone interview yesterday went great!!!  It was the best one I've had thus far, so I'm praying that it turns into the real thing!!!    (Btw, the position is at the Naval Weapons center in Dahlgren, VA- I'd be testing comm systems, radars, etc. onboard ships & subs!!  How bada@@ would that be if I got the job!!!)
 
But still keeping things positive and moving ahead!!  

While continuing to psyche myself up for this build, I've been catching up on a few things long overdue.
 
As many of you are aware, Chuck is now providing (through his Syren Model Company), some beautifully made rigging blocks.  Not to be outdone, Gjdale in his Victory log gave us a nice tutorial on how to scratch our own blocks. 
 
This reminded me that, buried somewhere in the shop for the last 5 years, is a MS 'Blockbuster' which I picked up on sale for about $8 and never evaluated:
 

 
It's a pretty simple device consisting of a plastic jar, some laser cut plywood that assembles quickly into a mandrel, a shaft and some sandpaper.  I replaced the supplied sandpaper with 150 grit having a self adhesive backing.
 
Not really expecting it to work, I tossed in some left over 3/32" and 1/8" blocks and gave it a whirl (6 minutes) on my drill:
 

 
The 4 blocks across the top line are typical untreated blocks (no extra charge for the off-line holes).  The lower half dozen are after treatment.  As one can see, there has actually been some improvement in appearance.  And it sure beats trying to hold these little fellows and having a go with a sanding block.
 
I am by no means advocating this device but I have seen several mentions of it without any 'review'.  At the right price, it's worth having around as a quick and simple way to improve kit-supplied blocks.

Brian
 
For a beginner in modeling ( as me), a bit of research is really necessary, if you want to make decent model. Somebody on MSW said: "... I had no idea what I'm going in ...".
 
Heaven and hell at the same time...
 
Today, I have only an idea what any singular rope on rigging is for, and how it works. How are they fitted, how they move. Research is interesting for me, and I dont want just to follow poor rigging instructions I have, when time comes to try to do it.
 
Surely, there are all other topics on MSW and I have to learn a lot, but there is enough time for that.
 
First to finish sanding, then planking, then deck furniture, then masts ... etc etc, long time in front of me to learn. But I do not hurry.  
 
Cheers
 
Nenad

Hey! 
 
@Popeye I'll take that ... should I drink it before or after the red? 
 
Thanks everyone!
 
I really appreciate it.
 
 
I'll get the build log moving again in a bit.
For some strange reason clients want me to actually finish sites I'm building for them ... 
 
 
[insert your best superlative] Regards
 
Sam

Grant: Thanks! The diversions are a GREAT distraction!
 
Sjors: Thanks!
I like that advice! I have to remember that those orders came from a Commodore and a Captain...but then again, you're a Commodore too, so I could follow your directions.
Better yet...as it has been duly noted here, I am an Admiral regardless of the designation above my avatar!
 
Mark: See Augie's suggestion.  
 
Augie: Thanks for providing the solution!  
 
Popeye: Thanks! If diversions are a direct result of craziness then I'm.............not finishing that sentence!!!  
 
Wayne: Thanks! Isn't easily distracted part of the diagnosis for...........never mind!  

That stand is very nice - and the planking is coming along well.  Ignore them....you're not crazy, just easily distracted!