dafi

Hi,
 
Have you ever tried pre applied solder pieces when doing this sort of thing? On this scale it's fiddly. And probably best to leave the solder on the work surface. But if you hammer the solder flat and pre cut just enough for each joint. Then it's possible to create a production line and solder them one after the other. With the solder under the metal, the metal pre flexed or fluxed solder. I used both. Then just hold each piece in place with a wooden coffee stirrer shaped just right the touch with the solder iron. Only needs a second or two as its so small but there is no unsightly lump of solder as only just enough is used and you can go along them doing perhaps twenty a minute. Without over soldering one of them.
 
Izzy
 
 

It is like one of those searching games, one has to know where to look at :-)
 
Victory

 
 
Endeavour

 
 
Göthebourg

 
 
 
Constitution: It looks like the seizing is used to secure the free end, but I believe having seen those seizings also on the front side.
 

 
XXXDAn

Thank you Robin, Jason, Dave and Keith.
 
@Keith: There are two ways :-)
 

 

So... A couple of comedians!    Don't people remember that she was called "Old Ironsides"???!! - She never absorbed any damage!  Everything bounced off!!!  Well, at least it all bounced off for my model.
 
 
Here is the latest...
 
It is amazing how many holes need to be drilled into a sailing ship model!  I've been busy with the mini spiral drill and #76 bit for the past few weekends.
 
It is also amazing to uncover the various nuances that go into these builds.  I've been drilling the many small holes for the Jotika eyelets that will be installed around the interior of the gun ports.  
 
Most references indicate the breeching terminating on a ring bolt positioned near the trucks in line with the bottom of the gun port.  The outhaul tackle, however, is often shown leading at an angle to an eyelet positioned about midway between the two guns.  It would seem to me to be more efficient if this tackle ran more parallel to the gun barrel - no waste in lateral effort when hauling on the tackle.  That would seem to be the arrangement on most of the contemporary ship models... An eyebolt for the outhaul tackle positioned about midway up on the gun port and near the opening.  The ring bolt for the breeching rope positioned directly below in line with the bottom of the port.
 
We can also see this type of set up on the remarkable War of 1812 wrecks of the Hamilton and Scourge that lie preserved at the bottom of Lake Ontario. Both were swamped by a sudden squall and lost at the same time.  (Actually the wrecks were once remarkably well preserved but have now become encrusted with an invasive species of mussel):
 

The boarding cutlasses are very cool.
 
Here is the approach I took:

 
None of these eyelets are glued in... Just a sample of positioning.  I'll blacken them and glue the upper eyelets, but I'll attach the lower ring bolts to the breeching rope when I rig the cannon off the ship before attaching these to the bulwarks.
 
Evan

A small selection
"The 100-Gun Ship Victory (Anatomy of the Ship Series) " fom McKay
http://www.amazon.com/100-Gun-Ship-Vict ... 229&sr=1-1

"HMS Victory: her construction, career and restauration" from McGowan with drawings from McKay
http://www.amazon.com/HMS-Victory-Alan- ... 109&sr=8-1

"The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" from Longridge
http://www.amazon.com/Anatomy-Nelsons-S ... 365&sr=1-1

"Rigging Period Ship Models: A Step-by-Step Guide to the Intricacies of the Square-Rig" from Petersson
http://www.amazon.com/Rigging-Period-Mo ... pd_sim_b_7

"Owners´Workshop Manual" from Goodwin
http://www.amazon.co.uk/HMS-Victory-Man ... =8-1-fkmr1


Nice to have:

"The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War: 1650-1850" from Goodwin
http://www.amazon.com/Construction-Fitt ... pd_sim_b_4

"Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War, 1600-1815" from Lavery
http://www.amazon.com/Arming-Fitting-En ... pd_sim_b_5


Supplementary

"HMS Victory" from Hackney (German Version): because of the planset included

A small selection
"The 100-Gun Ship Victory (Anatomy of the Ship Series) " fom McKay
http://www.amazon.com/100-Gun-Ship-Vict ... 229&sr=1-1

"HMS Victory: her construction, career and restauration" from McGowan with drawings from McKay
http://www.amazon.com/HMS-Victory-Alan- ... 109&sr=8-1

"The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships" from Longridge
http://www.amazon.com/Anatomy-Nelsons-S ... 365&sr=1-1

"Rigging Period Ship Models: A Step-by-Step Guide to the Intricacies of the Square-Rig" from Petersson
http://www.amazon.com/Rigging-Period-Mo ... pd_sim_b_7

"Owners´Workshop Manual" from Goodwin
http://www.amazon.co.uk/HMS-Victory-Man ... =8-1-fkmr1


Nice to have:

"The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War: 1650-1850" from Goodwin
http://www.amazon.com/Construction-Fitt ... pd_sim_b_4

"Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War, 1600-1815" from Lavery
http://www.amazon.com/Arming-Fitting-En ... pd_sim_b_5


Supplementary

"HMS Victory" from Hackney (German Version): because of the planset included

Small bits of flesh and blood?  

Okokok...
 
Back to business. Did you already discover the other small detail? The netting? Ever since I bought it 18 month ago I was wondering how to fix it in a decent way. Quite rigid but still floppy, bad to paint, difficult to handle, in on word: a modellers dream ;-)
 
But now I think I found my way. Taking the measures with templates ...
 

 
... transfer to cardboard ...
 

 
... glueing the tulle over it, making a frame out of 0,3 mm copper wire and fix it with CA.
 

 
Taking my Citadel paints and give it a nice coat, this enhances the appearance  of the material, three layers of different colors give a little bit of shading ...
 

 
... cut out ...
 

 
... and holy s... I changed the running direction of the material and got different looks :-(
 

 
Ok, made new ones and sewed them on the proper way ...
 

 
... and it looks much better :-)
 
By pulling a little bit on the right corners of the copper wire it also got slightly wavy to be not too even.
 

 
So bye for now, Daniel

Meanwhile I sent my small worker for a small dress up ...
 

 

 
... and it looks like he had done some hard working lately :-)
 
And tried hard with the building of the stairs:
 
As it is difficult to measure inside of the ship, I took a masking tape to take measures, so one can easily get it right after taking it out :-)
 

 
Then glueing the treads onto tape ...
 

 
... to get all of them the right distance. Beside you can see V1 from the early beginning of the build.
 

 
Regrouped vertically for the milling of the groove of the middle rib..
 

 
Made some templates for the assembly  ...
 

 
... glued the treads ...
 

 
... and the middle rib.
 

 
And there he stands my small worker and shaking his head upon the wrong proportioned stairs and sends the carpenter back to work ...
 

 
At least, he tried to do his best ...
 
All the Best, dafi

After I had a lot of work to be done lately, no bigger things could be moved, but I found a smaller task to keep myself happy. 
 
I realized that a lot of crews for the models were treated with much care concerning the painting and the historical correctness of the uniforms: But still they kept the positions they were delivered in - mostly these are people that were meant strolling along, nothing to do with the hustle and bustle and the action on a gundeck or working the sails.
 
So something to investigated: Take three times the same train passenger with luggage and leave once à la nature (right side) and strip  the other ones off their bags, dissect them and reconfigure them ...
 

 
... and look daddy - some real boys :-)
 
Open the footfall, twist in the upper body, moving the center of gravity to the edge of the standing area, turning the head into an opposite direction, moving the arm ... 
 
Here they are helped by a ex-diver, once organizing his equipment, same operations ...
 

 
... and now busy with organizing the flintlok. And a nice blondy, once meant to relax on the swimming-pool towel ...
 

 
... and stirred, not shaken, is a useful member of the guncrew :-)
 

 
And a small excursus into some moping up ...
 

 
... and the enlightment, that the sponge can not be held too upright because of the restricted hight of the gundeck - so had to change the first version of arms of the holding crew member.
 
And here it is the hustle and bustle and the action of half a gun crew ...
 

 

 

 

 
... and now imagine the melee with the other half also present and the those of the neighboring guns! What a throng ...
 
all the best, Daniel

Yes this socks :-)
 
Oh yes  you got my trick, actually the rings are rather big ...
 
Just to cheat I usually use the big dish in form of a Euro-Cent, the ostrich egg that is claimed to be a Tic-Tac ...
 

 
... the nitting needle instead of a sewing needle ...
 

 
... the stylo from the gadget-shop with the bowling ball in the front ...
 

 
... and the scale that measures meter instead of mils :-)
 

 
;-)
 
 
All the best, Daniel

Last Weekend, there were a lot of good series in the TV, like Warehouse 13, Sanctuary und Ghostrider :-)
 
And what does that mean?
 

 
That I have some 200+ microrings for my built :-)
Once started, it really takes off. 
 

And this is where they belong:

 
Oh I officially just need 1600+ for the guns including walls, blocks and gunports  ...
 
But I already decided to cheat a little bit :-)
 
Somebody got a nice shot from the last shipyard audit, me doing the inspections ...
 

 
;-)

... and believed the 1mm gratings from the shop still were too big ...
 
... and so the tests began ...
 
... and her is the whole story ...
 
Literature always indicates to use the circular saw with a small guide beside the blade. So far understandable and comprehensive and does not sound scary. A first test free hand prooved that my wood was suitable :-)
 
Fastily changed the machine ...
 

 
.... or not that fastily, because untill everything was adjusted to the 0.5 mm blade, the right hight of blade and suitable thickness of the guide, and smooth cutting worked, it took some time. But then putted stripes of 1.5 mm thickness to cut ...
 

 
... and it looked a little bit tattered, see the stripe in the front. So gave it some clear varnisch and the stripe startetd to bend in all directions :-( Used some plastic foil as a separation on the topside and clamped it against another piece of wood to let dry. And luckiely it came out straight and after the second time through the saw it looked clean, see the stripe behind :-)
 

 
... and this is the bounty: material for the next years to come :-)
 
So came the next task: Cutting it into 0.5 mm bars without breaking its tiny teeth and without the bars disappearing in the machine. The latter was easily resolved with some tape. The first came out of the problem, that with the standard guide, the line was rubbing against the blade. So made a new shorter guide that releases the bars immediately ...
 

 
... adjusted the distance with a 0.5 feeler gauge ...
 

 
... and glued same sheet on the side of the wood to get the fingers further off the blade. So managed to cut nice bars :-)
 
Next thing is mentioned neither in any book: The cutting is just one thing - the gluing is the bigger problem ...
 

 
... used some soft adhesive tape and tried to put it together with 0,5 x 0,5 mm toothless bars - looks nicely uneven ...
 

 
... so printed a 0.7 grid onto paper and used transparent double sided tape and a loupe to fix them together. Nice meditational work :-)
 

 
So it is filling up:
 

 
The caliper is set to 1.4 mm.
 
And my little worker was so kind to lift one up to show the underneath :-)
 

 
... and the result is a cute 0.7 mm grating and soon I will be able to show where it will end up :-)
 
All the best, Daniel

What do you want with the axe, James???

 

Disclaimer:

The following pictures are nothing ror the weak at heart! We will not take over responsibilities from any side effects you possibly may suffer  ...
 
Shiver with fear!!!

This is the lower gundeck with the riding bits, that are with me now for several years already. 
 

 
Build as a small detail to create an interesting view through the gunports and shaped roughly out of balsa. As the standard of the model grew, I would like to put a first layer of wooden decks to ecxcercise my technics. For that I do not want to have to plank around obstacles  and also to replace the bits by better ones, heavy measures had to be taken ...
 

 
... therefore got out the heavy tools and realised that the things were well glued onto the deck. So after no blood but loads of sweat and tears the deck was cleaned ... 
 

 
... and the rubbish big. Real after battle feeling ;-)
 

 
Here the gratings that were taken out: In those days I simulated them by taking a perforated sheet with 1 mm holes as drill template and forced the tip a small recangular file inside ...
At least, it did the job in those days :-)
 

 
 
... ok, I hope, that was not too tough for you???
 
;-) 
 
All the best to the brave out there, Daniel

On a model in a german forum I saw the copper held on the top by a thin wooden strip. Once discovered, it can be found on all ships still bearing their copper hulls, nicely to be seen on the HMS Triconmalee.
 
I was preparing this for a while as not to damage the copper. Trials with Polysterol did not work as it was difficult to cut and to flimpsy to glue. Trying wood on the circular saw did give just rubbish as the little thing was meant to be only 0,3 mm thick and 1 mm high - and about 50 cm long.
 
And the result from the last show said: Trust your hands :-)
 
So I found 0,4 mm wooden strips from the trials for the planking that was long enough, glued it onto the cutting board - with help of the cutting ruler - for that nothing can move ...
 

 
... and cut with a razor blade. Even though it resulted in different hights ...
 
... so I built a template with a guide 1 mm high, a movable guide in the front 1 mm high to hold, putting the strip vertically in and sand everythig away that sticks out. Gives a very even hight and very even apparence :-)
 

 
Glued it on immediately which worked fine ...
 

 
... at least at the bows. Aft it - have a look yourselves ...
 

 
... this Heller lump always existed, but now it sreamed HERE I AM, so I had to do something - as usual with me ...
 

 
... looked for the right trace with some tape, difference almost 3 mm (!) ...
 

 
... striped the strip down , cutting down the copper plates that stood over the stripline and glued the strip back on, this time straight :-)
 
And as it was so much fun, I solved the same ...
 

 
... Heller-bug at the bows too - luckily only 1 mm this time, ...
 

 
...  lifted the strip with a blade and repositioned :-)
 
And now there is a nice finish to the top border of the copper. 
 

 

 
Have fun, Daniel

Thank you Colin and Christian :-)
 
 
Next I finished the starboard main- and fore chainplates.   So I finished all of them, huuuuurrrrrrraaaaaaayyyyyyy!!!!       And here it comes the side entrance. I wondered already for a while, why I did not refix the old one (see first picture post #3 http://mediaharmonists.de/bilder/640-victory-porticus.jpg). First tried better painting. Better but not yet there.      Until I realised: Canopy 2 mm shorter and decreasing the thickness from 2 mm to down to 1,5 mm.        Heureka :-) The lead cover of the canopy´s top will still come as soon as I am happy with whitch material to use.   And something really mindblowing to end this post: the patented original Ikea-soldering-iron-holder :-)     Lieber Gruß, Daniel

Oh I forgot to tell you about the opened window :-)
 
Did you already spot him?
 
Who???
 
Sir Archibald of course, who would have made a mess with the air in the mess if his comrades would´t have asked him to enhace air quality inside the ship by opening the window :-)
 

 
So into the cabin, putting the coat onto the hook and sit down and hang loose ...
 

 
... and there he is sitting on his lower end at the lower and of the ship and enjoys life and being - and especially the thought, that he does not have to sit on the seats of ease at the head :-)
 

 
Him looking a little bit strained is due to the dignity and the sincerity of his task - and due to the fact that while being painted ...
 
... ouch, have a look and feel with him:
 

 
Ok, we let him now concentrate onto his task, even though I have the feeling that he will be sitting there for a while ...
 

 
Three cheers for Sir Archibald, 
 
sincerily yours, Daniel

In the meantime I took the modelmaking to the extrems: The extrem front, the extreme button and the extrem aft ;-)  
Lets start with the extreme button:  
 
   
 
I finally finished the coppering. Also the false keel is placed.   
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
Then I continued on the extrem aft: The heller sternpost is flat and the rudder is far off. Does not have to be ;-)  
 
So cutting off the old hinges and glueing a strip of Ureol onto the sternpost ...  
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
... file it triangular ...  
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
... and copper it. See the false keel.   
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
The horizontal cuts were opened for new hinges. Made out of 1mm sheet. Just a look into my small workshop:  
 
Small parts always in line on self adhesive tape, using a old blade to keep even distance to the top ...  
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
... carefully drilled and cut still being placed on the tape ...  
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
... and putting the whole into the slots of the sternpost.  
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
The rudder was reshaped, got new bolts and fittings ...  
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
... a little bit of colour and some more coppering ...  
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
... and being put in place.  
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
Still missing some cuts on the rudders copper to show dimensions of the copper plates.  
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
...  

I actually fixed the first rows of copper on this weekend. Here are some impressions:       It is nice to see the difference between the new material and the old paint. It was good to have the paint underneath, as to make minimal gaps not too visible :-) I use masking tape to protekt the black paint from the glue, otherwise it will take out good chunks - just guess how I found out :-(   BTW: The glory for bringing this ingenious material to my attention belongs to a chap in a german forum, who presented this technik on a wooden Santissima Trinidad.   the copper is rather cheap  Look in the internet for suppliers of Tiffany lamp builders, you need two rolls of 4 mm, self adhesive.

The first supplier to pop up in google is this one: 
http://www.nickates.com/cart/catalog/Foil-84-1.html
And there are plenty more! Check the prices and delivery charges.

The tape belongs to this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead_came_ ... _glasswork

I use colors from Citadel that usually is used for World of Warcraft. 
Chaos Black 61-51
Skull White 61-54
Enchanted blue 61-34
Scorched Brown 61-12 (dark brown)
Foundation:
Iyanden Darksun 68-04 (Yellow)
Mechrite Red 68-01 (Red Earth)
(oh I love the other names like "Red Gore", "Vomit Brown", "Rotting Flesh" und "Graveyard Earth")

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catal ... ints-tools

These colours are great and they don´t smell. I have to build in the living room and so my family does not moan any more!

Jep, you got me, for the lower gundeck I used balsa: easy to work with, a razor blade and some sanding paper is all the tools you need. The poor quality of the surface is no problem in the dark dungeons of this deck 

For the wooden deck this will be very time consuming and needs also skills on wood working. So be careful! Anyway, first always go for the basic work and don´t get lost in the details! First the hull has to be ready, befor one should think of the details! I learned my lesson too, how to focus onto the next step. Not that you have just lovely details, but the ship is missing    Greetings Daniel

Thanks for the link and I'll be reading your build with avid attention to date tail.

Hello Izzy,
 
the good thing is, even without etch parts one can make a magnificent model out of this box :-)
 
Have a look at my build and you will find most parts described how they can be build without using after market parts.
But if you wish to use some, all parts are available separate, so one can pick the things that are useful.
 
Another useful link is http://pete-coleman.com/forum/ 
This site is largely dedicated to the Heller-model with many hints and tricks.
 
I hope this helps, cheers, Daniel

Well its back to the guns we are.
 
This time to add flintlocks using Dafi's etch parts.
 

 
Now some have the flintlock and some a cover for this.
Made from plastic exhaust pipes cut in half and a bit of plastic.
 

 
Here shows both types, used thin thread to hold covers and did about half and half of long and short 12 Pounders.
 

 

Should show a bit of interest.
 
Frank

Frank,
 
I'd say more but life has left me precious little time at the moment.  You're doing a fantastic job with her.

Cheers Keith mate.
 
Well after all the prep I find more to do, this time I needed to drill holes for gun eyelets.
Luckly I sore how Daniel had done his, so push fitted a wood dowl into a hand  drill.



Did both sides.



Job done!!!!.
 
Frank

In this video of the Surprise replica, you can see crew swaying aloft the Royal yard on a halyard at around the 2:10 minute-mark. The quality isn't too good and the angle is poor. If you watched the entire video you can just barely make out the same operation on the Fore at an earlier point in the film.