dafi

I offer you the 1720s.
British first rate 
Edit: or a little earlier this one
 
Edit: it can still be done a little earlier as this one shows

1765
https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66456
 
Who´s earlier?
 
🙂
 
XXXDA

1765
https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66456
 
Who´s earlier?
 
🙂
 
XXXDA

I saw some of these prints in Evian on the exhibition of the french arsenal group on the booth of Ancre and Mr. Berti. Those guns and other parts are very well done!

What a great addition!

XXXDAn

PS:
Just noticed after uploading:
Also to my previous personal understanding there there should not have been a stop on the upper sill as mentioned above.
 
But it seems Belona´s model shows them. And a quick look at the pictures I took from Vasa shows them too. Too be honest I would expect one there as for sealing the lid off as this area needs some greater tolerance/space as for easy fitting of the hinges, no stop would leave a bigger gap there.

The only contemporary source of an actual fitted gunport is the one of Colossus.
original Source, not available any more: http://www.cismas.org.uk/downloads.php
original Source, not available any more: http://www.cismas.org.uk/docs/Colossus Monitoring and Investigation Report.pdf
Page 32 ff especially page 35
The stop beam below the inside of the port is particularly interesting. Attention: Image is upside down.

 
 
Also interesting is the position of the scupper, which does not seem to follow the rhythm of the ports.
There are two parallel ledges on the left and right in the lower area of the gate: possibly to insert a half-height splash guard

Above the gate are two things that could possibly indicate the two eyebolts for lashing in marching position. Above the port there is also a worn semi-circular surface against which the guns were braced.

XXXDAn
 

The lids were smooth with the planking, but I observed different handling on applications complementing the whales:
- Sometimes there was an application applied onto the lid complementing the line of the whale. These ones I suppose were to be nailed-on features and not thicker planking per se as the whales were.
- Sometimes the lid cuts a whale without an application, leaving a "gap".
I never found the time to research if these two versions were favoured to special eras or if there is a rule/pattern to be seen, to decide whitch one was more probable of a certain ship. Are there any observations/facts known?
 
And another question that often rages on and that fits here nicely:
Was there a stop on the lid too?
Some older models like the Prince show a stop also on the lid, nailed on as the second layer, also the Vasa has them.
But later on this feature is seldom shown in models. The Bellona Modell is one of the few ones.

The battle rages as some say, it needs this stop on the lid unconditionally to really make sure that the lid can be closed watertight, as the two profiles join together in a way that a fast "caulking" can be done to seal it off.
 
Others say, it is no problem to seal it watertight even if the stop on the lid is missing, also the fitting of the lid is easier or less danger of that it gets stuck due to warping or the hinges  getting worn.
 
Is the any more knowledge about this matter? Was the stop a common feature that was only omitted in most of the models?
 
All the best, DAniel
 

PS:
Just noticed after uploading:
Also to my previous personal understanding there there should not have been a stop on the upper sill as mentioned above.
 
But it seems Belona´s model shows them. And a quick look at the pictures I took from Vasa shows them too. Too be honest I would expect one there as for sealing the lid off as this area needs some greater tolerance/space as for easy fitting of the hinges, no stop would leave a bigger gap there.

The only contemporary source of an actual fitted gunport is the one of Colossus.
original Source, not available any more: http://www.cismas.org.uk/downloads.php
original Source, not available any more: http://www.cismas.org.uk/docs/Colossus Monitoring and Investigation Report.pdf
Page 32 ff especially page 35
The stop beam below the inside of the port is particularly interesting. Attention: Image is upside down.

 
 
Also interesting is the position of the scupper, which does not seem to follow the rhythm of the ports.
There are two parallel ledges on the left and right in the lower area of the gate: possibly to insert a half-height splash guard

Above the gate are two things that could possibly indicate the two eyebolts for lashing in marching position. Above the port there is also a worn semi-circular surface against which the guns were braced.

XXXDAn
 

The lids were smooth with the planking, but I observed different handling on applications complementing the whales:
- Sometimes there was an application applied onto the lid complementing the line of the whale. These ones I suppose were to be nailed-on features and not thicker planking per se as the whales were.
- Sometimes the lid cuts a whale without an application, leaving a "gap".
I never found the time to research if these two versions were favoured to special eras or if there is a rule/pattern to be seen, to decide whitch one was more probable of a certain ship. Are there any observations/facts known?
 
And another question that often rages on and that fits here nicely:
Was there a stop on the lid too?
Some older models like the Prince show a stop also on the lid, nailed on as the second layer, also the Vasa has them.
But later on this feature is seldom shown in models. The Bellona Modell is one of the few ones.

The battle rages as some say, it needs this stop on the lid unconditionally to really make sure that the lid can be closed watertight, as the two profiles join together in a way that a fast "caulking" can be done to seal it off.
 
Others say, it is no problem to seal it watertight even if the stop on the lid is missing, also the fitting of the lid is easier or less danger of that it gets stuck due to warping or the hinges  getting worn.
 
Is the any more knowledge about this matter? Was the stop a common feature that was only omitted in most of the models?
 
All the best, DAniel
 

Post 48
Adding the Capping rails
Following on from Post 47 I am adding the Capping rails, but there a few preliminaries to attend to.
The spirketting and top rails have been fitted and painted.
The Gunwale tops have been levelled and sanded smooth.

0627
The Bowsprit opening at the Bows has been fettled and a Bowsprit section along with the stop have been temporarily put into place.

0637
The short forward sections of Capping rail are then glued into place.
I next assemble the Catheads and use them to mark the distance for the placing of the long section of capping. I am not fitting them at this point.

0633
At the stern I have levelled off that area of the deck cabin structures to allow fair run of the capping rail to meet the transom.
I notched the transom to allow free passage of the rail, it splintered a little but that is of no consequence as the outer transom pieces fit over.

0642

0641
Easier without the boarding in place to line up the capping at the stern.

0646

0651

0649

0645
I didn’t think it necessary to paint the rail prior to installation but I did run the edge of a chisel tipped waterproof marker along the inside edge.
 
Movin’ on…
 
B.E.
04/03/2025

I actually sanded the roof edge back and also sanded down the bulwark down as the davits later take up the whole width of the capprail. See below

Hi Mark,
A quarter round may have been an option had the lower counter had a more convex  shape, but sadly not.🤔
 
Post 47
Roof boards and Capping rails – which is the chicken, which is the egg.
I had been thinking of adding the roof boarding at this point.
Again this is a slightly oversize pre-printed shaped board.

0621
However, the plan would indicate that the Capping rails run directly over the outer edge of the mdf  roof line, but…..

0618
On my build the mdf deck structure rises above the Gunwale on the outer side. Whether this is an expected thing or a peculiarity of my build I’m not sure.

0623
The instructions are not expansive on this aspect, but it appears that the outer edge of the structure need to be flush with the gunwale to allow  a fair run of the capping rail.
There is no indication of trimming the capping rail at its aft end.

0625
Some trimming of the board will be necessary.
 
It strikes me that it may be better to fit the capping rail before the roof boards.
This does not concur with the build sequence where adding the boards is some 34 steps before the capping rails are added, but it makes sense to me.
I can’t think why the cappings shouldn’t be added at this point, and it is the route I will take, having made the outer roof line edge flush with the gunwale.
 
B.E.
03/03/2025

Post 46
Detailing the deck cont’d
Before the spirketting is fitted it is necessary to fit the doors to the aft deck structures.

3532a
These have been fitted out with Syren hinges and handles.
 
Side panels for the deck structures (Parts 60/61)

3533a
Any hopes for a close fit were quicky dispelled, no doubt due to the peculiarities of my build.

0560
A card template was used to get the required shape which due to the differences precludes use of the outer framing pattern in its supplied form.

3534a
The shape was cut out of 0.6mm fret and lines drawn to represent the boarding at 3mm intervals. These were scored with a scalpel blade, and lined with pencil.

0604
The frames were made from 3mm strip also cut from the fret.

3541a
Trimming of the forward edge.

0609

3545a
Lower Counter
I wasn’t happy about the fit at the stern where the decking meets the lower counter; it looked unfinished and from a practical carpentry aspect was a poor arrangement.

3547a
I added a shaped Margin to butt against the plank ends and  fayed into the lower counter. This part has been painted along with the counter.

3551a
Onwards….
 
B.E
02/03/2025

Cheers Guys.
@ Fritz, thanks for looking in, separate spirketting and Quick works panelling is provided in the kit, but I've not seen a kit that supplies a waterway.
I usually do a representation of a waterway including  scuppers, but I've yet to reach that stage.
 
Post 45
Detailing the deck
Time to get some paint down.

0573

0563
I used Vallejo Black/grey(168) for the coamings.
The slightly pinkish look to the Counter isn’t representative of the true colour.

0562
Dry fitting the inner bulwarks, forward section an excellent fit. I used the gunport jigs to ensure alignment.

0577
I pre-painted the inner bulwarks before fitting. I used Vallejo Flat Red (031)
The longer aft section was trickier to fit, getting it into place before the glue set, whilst aligning it with the ports, and sheaves that run thro’ the hull.

0583
Again the port jigs proved useful.
Towards the stern I did note that the run of the bulwark  didn’t quite meet the deck, but it’s more important to get the ports lined up. Any adjustment will be done once the Spirketting is fitted.

0593

0594
Only one thin coat of paint has been applied prior to fitting.
 
B.E.
28/02/2025
 

Post 43
Deck Planking Part 3
The first full length planks port and starboard that run along the unplanked area are put into place.

0520
They are fitted in one piece bow to stern in order to maintain the subtle curve fore and aft.
Butt joints at a scale 30’ are marked post fitting.

0521
Planking progresses outwards, tapering towards bow and stern, wedges are used to hold planks in place.

0522

0526
Two strakes remain to be fitted each side.

0533
Another day should see completion of the deck planking.
 
B.E.
26/02/2025
 

Hi Chris, if you look at my part (above) compared with the Manual photo you posted  I think you may see why I originally thought it was a ‘fault’ in production rather than an error in authenticity. Some tiny sections appear to be missing.
I already had what I thought were the hawse spaces in the Main hatch gratings.
No problem, I will stick with my replacement fitting.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Post 41
Planking the gundeck Part 1.
I start with a margin plank cut from some Boxwood sheet using the kit deck pattern to form the shape.

0465

0467
It is only needed for the forward hull curve, for the remainder 4mm strip will be used.

0477

0476
The kit deck pattern provides a useful template for marking the  positions of the centre-line fittings.

0480
The Capstan step, aft companionway, and skylight are designed to  sit atop the deck pattern whereas the Hatchways sit upon the beams.

0487
I added a base to the Capstan step to bring it up to the correct level; it was then glued to the beams along with the hatchways.

0483
These were glued sequentially using the deck pattern to ensure correct alignment.
 
This is where it starts to get tricky, imagining a complete run of planking but leaving non connective areas unplanked, without giving the impression that they would not align were they planked.
I am generally using a combination of 3.4mm. 4.5mm wide boards, but wider strips may be required in placed.

0490

0489
I am starting at the centre line between the Fore Ladderway and the Main Hatch.

0493
Here the planks are supported only by the deck beams and as I’m using slightly thinner boards (0.6mm) care must be taken to avoid putting too much pressure on them. Once I move onto the sub-deck areas there is no issue.
 
I next need to fix the Inner counter boards at the stern. These need to be in place to get a tight fit of the deck planking against the lower counter pattern.

0495
The Upper counter panel required some adjustment to fit, made tricky by the fragility of this piece.

0496
On my build there is a gap between the lower counter and the sub-deck, but the fit against the upper counter is as it should be, a nice tight line.
 
Movin' on......
 
B.E.
22/02/2025
 
 
 
 
 

Post 40
Prelude to planking.

0449
I have spent a morning cleaning up just these five fittings. The Char proved very stubborn.

0446
I do intend to paint the coamings Black, but I prefer to keep the insides bright, which proved to be the most difficult to clean.
 The gratings will be given the w-o-p treatment.

0443
I decided I couldn’t live with the kit small steam grating set-up (on the right) so I re-made one more to my liking.

0459
Looking a lot better now.

0452
I can now proceed to planking.

0460
I think my assistant is telling me it’s time for (his) lunch.
 
B.E
20/02/2025
 

That's a cracking shot of your 64, Ron, and the copper colour is spot on for what I'm after.
Love the small details - lead sheathing on the stem and Tompions in the Hawse holes. 👍
 
Post 39
Thinking about the deck
As with Indy and Sphinx I want to leave as much of the lower deck open to view as is practical.
The ply sub-deck gives the basic shape to be over-planked but the area will be increased sufficiently to house the carronades.

0384
At the bow around the Fore-Mast I have cut away an area to show more detail of the forward cabins.
This necessitates adding carlings to the deck beam behind the mast to support the mast partners.
Retro fitting carlings  is a little tricky.
 
The centre line of the boat will be planked where necessary between the various fittings.
Hatchways and Companionways will be fitted before planking.
 
Chris has designed these to fit within the etched deck cut-outs, directly on the beams, so I don’t need to  make adjustments to the height of the coamings etc.
 
The first job is to make up and fit the grating sets. 
Quite time consuming the assembly and fettlin’ of these items, there is a lot of heavy char to be removed. It pays to take time, they will be prominent features of the Upper deck.

0435
For the first time on a build, I have not had to add a round-up to the head ledges of the coamings, Chris has included this feature in the parts.👍

0393
Veneers wettened and clamped around a suitable former, in my case a plan tube, are used to cover the  coamings/ head ledges.
The instruction suggest leaving them for 36 hours before use, but I blast them with the hair dryer and leave overnight.
I perceive on the gratings a sort of ribbed effect I have not noticed on previous builds. They benefit from a light sanding to reduce this.

0402
The Instructions suggest that rounding the gratings isn’t necessary; I found it of benefit, and I applied the hairdryer treatment but without dampening the grates.

0404
Main Hatch

0432
The only issue I had with assembly was with the Fore grating and stove chimney cover.
I had to add side pieces to get a good fit.
All these fittings are in their raw state at present.
 
When going off-piste with the decking it is advisable to check out all the fittings to ensure sufficient deck planking is in place.

0423

0424
Here the riding bitts and standards are dry fitted.
I will need to support the standards with decking.

0412
Additional carlings were required to support the small steam grating above the stove grate, which otherwise just sits on the etched deck.

0414
Not sure what the small cut-outs on this grating are for? They almost look like a fault.

0417

0419

0420
All the char will now be removed and the centre line fittings glued into place.
 
B.E.
19/02/2025

Post 49
Roof boarding
The painted roof boards look attractive, but I suspect in reality they would have been tarred or sheathed in lead to prevent water ingress particularly for the starboard side Pantry.
I have decided to Lead the boarding as a contrast to the paintwork.

0656
The lead foil is patinated using Pewter Patination fluid following a dip in white vinegar.

0657
I trimmed the  boards a little to reduce the overhang at the front and longside.

0653
It proved quite tricky to secure the roof  and I had to get inventive with a clamping arrangement.
I did pre-bend the boards before gluing using pva. I didn’t want to use Cyano in case any got on the paintwork or lead.

0661

0664
It is useful at this point to check the fit of the stern davits that sit atop the capping rail.
 
While I was waiting for glue to dry I had a play around with naming Harpy.
The kit doesn’t include lettering for the stern, and it’s debateable whether these Brigs even had name plates.

0654
However, that’s no reason not to have a look; I used 5mm  stick on vinyl lettering  in the only practical place on the transom.
I do rather like a name on the stern even if it stretches credulity.
I’ll ponder it a while, but application of the name is best done before the outer transom piece is glued into place.
 
B.E.
05/03/2025
 

PS:
Just noticed after uploading:
Also to my previous personal understanding there there should not have been a stop on the upper sill as mentioned above.
 
But it seems Belona´s model shows them. And a quick look at the pictures I took from Vasa shows them too. Too be honest I would expect one there as for sealing the lid off as this area needs some greater tolerance/space as for easy fitting of the hinges, no stop would leave a bigger gap there.

The only contemporary source of an actual fitted gunport is the one of Colossus.
original Source, not available any more: http://www.cismas.org.uk/downloads.php
original Source, not available any more: http://www.cismas.org.uk/docs/Colossus Monitoring and Investigation Report.pdf
Page 32 ff especially page 35
The stop beam below the inside of the port is particularly interesting. Attention: Image is upside down.

 
 
Also interesting is the position of the scupper, which does not seem to follow the rhythm of the ports.
There are two parallel ledges on the left and right in the lower area of the gate: possibly to insert a half-height splash guard

Above the gate are two things that could possibly indicate the two eyebolts for lashing in marching position. Above the port there is also a worn semi-circular surface against which the guns were braced.

XXXDAn
 

Post 42
Deck Planking Part 2
With the counters in place I concentrate on the aft deck section.
Once the centre planks are in place I begin to taper the planks.

0500

0513
This is done by eye, the objective to get a curve that runs parallel to the outer deck line.
 
At this point I  move to the Bow section.

0503

0505
Apart from the four planks either side of the centre, the other are all tapered and nibbed into the Margin planks.

0509
The area of the sub-deck remains to be planked but the indication is that a fair run of planking will follow.🤞🤞

0511
Looking a bit rough at this stage and very much w-i-p. 
Hopefully this belies the end result once the deck is scrubbed,  or rather scraped up, to a reasonable finish.
 
B.E.
24/02/2025
 

Wonderful thread, thank you!
 
Here for completition a modern version of the horse shoe hank of todays Hendrika Bartelds, with steel cable and screwed hanks.
 
XXXDAn

And by how often the (far more expensive) stay had to be replaced. On my one voyage aboard "Stad Amsterdam", the sailmaker moaned about how fast the (very expensive) bronze hanks wore out. But even frequent replacement of those was a lesser expense than the wear-and-tear of the steel stays that harder hanks would have caused.

NOTE: Hanks are devices to attach the luff or head of staysails to stays. Some people call the rope coils created when belaying ropes to belaying pins "hanks" but this is a misuse of the term.
 
I am building a topsail schooner model for the period around 1815. I have worked up to rigging the staysails. I have seen a lot of posts on the Forum showing how different modelers have built their models, but nothing that actually considers the different methods for attaching staysails that have appeared with time. I researched the literature I have available and, as usual, found a lot of different opinions. So what should I use for an American topsail schooner (Baltimore Clipper) in the early 1800s?
 

 
 
 
Here is a diagram from Bengt Kihlberg's The Lore of Ships. It shows several methods for attaching staysails to stays.
 
At the top is lacing that is wound in the opposite direction from the lay of the stay.
 
Below that are wooden hanks, showing how they are made, fitted over the stay and tied to the sail.
 
At the bottom are metal hanks showing how they were tied to the sails.
 
Not shown are grommets made of rope to attach the sail to the stay. They were three loops of rope around the stay. I am not sure how they were attached to the sail, but I have seen one instance where the grommet was wrapped around the stay, and then was seized to the sail around the bolt rope similar to what is shown for the wooden hanks.
 
The top two methods are shown using rope stays, and the bottom method is shown with wire stays.
 
But the book doesn't say when each method came into use or for how long it continued to be used.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The first place I looked was Howard Chapelle's The Baltimore Clipper and found no mention of how the sails were made or rigged.
 
R. C. Anderson's Seventeenth Century Rigging says "Staysails were laced to their stays with thin lines passed the opposite way to the lay of the rope." Apparently in the 1600s hanks and grommets had not yet come into use and the sails were simply laced to the stays.
 
Falconer's Universal Dictionary of the Marine (1769) describes the following ways to attach staysails to the stays: "GROMMET, ... a sort of small wreath, formed of a strand of rope, and used to fasten the upper edge of a stay-sail to its respective stay, ..." "HANKS, ... certain wooden rings fixed upon the stays of a ship, whereby to confine the stay-sails thereto ..." "They are used in place of grommets, being a later invention ..." " ... framed by the bending of a tough piece of wood into the form of a wreath, and fastened at the two ends by means of notches ..." So grommets were in use in place of the earlier lacing. But by the mid 1700s hanks had come into use to replace the grommets.
 
Steel's The Art of Rigging (1796) says: "GROMMETS. Rings made of worn rope, which are used to confine the nock of spiritsails to the mast ..."
"HANKS. Rings made of iron, or hoopsticks bent in a circular form, fixed on the stays to confine the staysails." So grommets were still in use in the late 1700s, but wooden hanks and iron ring hanks were also in use.
 
James Lees' The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625 – 1860 is a popular reference, but he doesn't mention any vessel smaller that large square rigged ships (even though the English had schooners and such). He says "Hanks ... were usually made of iron, bent round to a bow shackle shape, with an eye in each end ..." "Steel ... describes some made of wood ... but I have seen no model with wooden hanks and recommend the modeler to use the metal type." I question his implication that steel hanks were in use in the 1600s.
 
Darcy Lever's The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor (1808) is my normal go-to for early 1800s American rigging. He says "The FORE STAYSAIL ... is bent to Hanks ... made of ash or iron, and sometimes of Rope." He says about the same thing for other stay sails. He actually doesn't give any details for grommets, wooden hanks or iron hanks.
 
Wolfram zu Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models says "The staysails were bent with lacing or grommets until about 1820, after which time metal hanks seized to the sail were used." No mention of wooden hanks! But he implies metal hanks were used from 1820 on.
 
George Biddlecombe's The Art of Rigging (1848) revised Steel's earlier work for the US Naval Academy. It says: "GROMMET. - A kind of ring, or small wreath, formed of a strand of rope, laid thrice round, and used to fasten the upper edge of a sail to its respective stay ..." "HANKS are wooden or iron rings ... They are used in lieu of grommets." He claims grommets were still used in some instances in the mid 1800s, along with wooden and iron hanks.
 
Harold Underhill says in Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier "Stay-sails are bent to their respective stays by means of hanks, or metal rings, which enable the sail to slide freely up and down the stay." But he is mostly concerned with vessels of the late 1800s that used wire ropes extensively for standing rigging and some running rigging.
 
Howard Chapelle gives more specific information in his The American Fishing Schooners 1825-1935. "Wooden jib hank for hemp stays ..." "Horseshoe wrought iron hanks for wire rope …" "Wrought iron jib hanks came into use in fishing schooners when wire rope rigging was adapted, sometime before 1885." "Rings were first employed on all head stays..." "Horseshoe hanks came into use about 1887-9." His dates for the introduction of iron hanks are much later than other references, but he is talking specifically about American east coast fishing schooners. Apparently they adopted the "new technology" later than some navies.
 
****
 
Do I know any more than when I started researching hanks? Well, yes and no. It would seem that new ideas spread slowly, and old ways of doing things hung on for long times. But that isn't new!
 
To summarize, it would seem that staysails were introduced sometime in the early 1600s, and they were originally laced to the stays. By the mid 1700s staysails were attached to the stays with either rope grommets or wooden hanks. But lacing continued to be used into the early 1800s, and maybe later on very small vessels. By the mid 1800s grommets, wooden hanks and iron hanks were used. When iron hanks were introduced isn't clear, nor is the use of iron hanks and rope stays. But it seems they were used with rope stays on larger vessels before wire rope stays were introduced in the mid 1800s. By the late 1800s wire ropes were replacing hemp and other natural fiber ropes, and the hanks used with metal stays were made of metal.
 
What type of attachments were used seems to depend upon the size and period of the vessel, and consequently the size of the stays and sails. Smaller vessels continued to use lacing and rope grommets into the 1800s and maybe 1900s. Wooden hanks were from the mid 1700s up until wire stays were introduced in the mid 1800s. Metal hanks or rings were used on the largest ships perhaps from the early 1700s on through the end of sailing ships, and probably on all vessels when wire rope stays were introduced.
 
For my American topsail schooner I may use rope hanks or possibly wooden hanks. I think metal hanks would be inappropriate, and the ship is probably too large for simple lacing.
 
References
 
Anderson, R. C. 1955. Seventeenth Century Rigging, Model & Allied Publications Ltd, England. page 133.
 
Biddlecombe, George. 1848. The Art of Rigging. Brattleboro, Vermont, USA: Echo Point Books & Media, LLC. Reprinted 2016. Page 15.
 
Chapelle, Howard. 1968. The Baltimore Clipper, Edward W. Sweetman Company, New York.
 
Chapelle, Howard. 1973. The American Fishing Schooners 1825-1935. New York and London: W. W. Norton & Company. Page 507-8.
 
Falconer, William. 1769. Universal Dictionary of the Marine. London: T. Cadell.
 
Kihlberg, Bengt et al. 1975. The Lore of Ships, Crescent Books, New York. Page 118.
 
Lees, James. 1990 The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625 – 1860. Annapolis, Maryland: Naval Institute Press. Page 37.
 
Lever, Darcy. 1808. The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor. Ottawa, Canada: Algrove Publishing Ltd. Reprinted 2000. page 59.
 
Mondfeld, Wolfram zu. 1989. Historic Ship Models. New York: Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. Page 266.
 
Steel, David. 1796. The Art of Rigging, His Navigation Warehouse, London. page 10.
 
Underhill, Harold A. 1946, Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier.  Brown, Son and Ferguson, Ltd., Glasgow. Page 13.

Steels tables break down in to SWEEPS, OARS and SCULLS:

 
As you can see from the inboard length compared to the breadth he hasn't included oars for double banked boats. The sculls would fit but they are for one rower with two oars.
Double banked oars should (I think) have 10" handles, a total inboard length of under half the breadth and be shorter than single banked oars.
 
 
NOTE: The button is 2" down the body so has been added to inboard and subtracted from outboard. The rows in red don't add up to the sweep.