demetri

Not much to say so I will let these photos say it all - port and starboard Tubs fitted.
 
OC.

Two more pics folks - I didn't like the first attempts above so despite it being night time here, I took the ole girl into the kitchen(more light there)  and took a couple of shots at a slightly further distance as I was to close with the others.
 
Here they are -
 
OC.

Thanks guys ,
 
I've been really crook the last week or so - the worst case of Flu I've ever had the misfortune of having . Fortunately the symptoms are on the way out, and I can continue building. Only the runny eyes are a bit of a handicap, but hopefully they'll clear up shortly .
 
I've managed to finish the three Gun Turrets, despite my woes. The instructions were rather vague about how the turret Pivots went together, and I'm not sure if they are meant to actually pivot or not, but I worked out a way of doing so. Here's the diagram - I've fitted part 100b BETWEEN 100d and 100e :

 
And here are the parts cut out for one pivot. I've already glued on the edging bands to the two larger discs :

 
The main "working" parts of the pivot. The disc 100b needed a lot of dry-fitting before establishing how far "up" the axle 100a it needed to go to get the right clearances :


 
Top and bottom views of the assembly fitted together. Discs 100d and 100e are glued together. Care had to be taken not to get any glue on 100b/100a :


 
The pivot glued to the base of the turret, along with four gussets. Not shown in the pics is a small stub of 1.0mm brass wire in the centre of the pivot. This will locate into a corresponding hole in the deck to make later fitting much easier and more accurate :


 
The last of the wire work on the turrets is what I assume to be a small antenna :

 
And finally I've fitted the gun barrels. Note the working barrel elevators :


 
  Danny

Interesting theme. As a cartonist I will follow this thread.

Interesting theme. As a cartonist I will follow this thread.

A simple man’s guide to sail making (part two)
 
The sail has been cut out complete with a hem all the way round, the positions of the cringles have been marked along the edges.
The hems are folded over and a small slit where the cringles are to be placed is made with the scalpel.
0.1mm line is then placed along the hem inside the fold and fished thro with a small pointy thing, to form the cringles.
This is the position so reached.
 

 

After the first few cringles have been formed the hem is glued down using neat PVA to hold the cringles in place.
 
In the pic below all the cringles have now been put into place.
 
Down each side from the top are the three pairs of Reef cringles, followed by three Bowline cringles; the leech line is attached thro’ the top two.
 
At the clue is the cringle for the blocks..
 
Across the foot of the sail are the cringles for the buntlines.

Bands, patches and linings
Additional strengthening pieces of ‘cloth’ are now required to be added to the sail. These are all attached to the aft side of the sail as shown above (Fore side on British ships.)
They comprise:
The reef bands, three narrow strips thro’ which the reef points are fixed.
The Patches small squares of material below the reef cringles at the leech.
The Top lining, the most distinctive addition whose purpose is to protect the sail from wear by friction against the mast top.
The Lining cloths which are strengthening strips staggered down the leech of the sail.
A bit like wallpapering this part, cut it to size, slap on the paste, and stick it down.
 

With the light behind the full effect of the various additions can now be seen.
A series of holes were drilled thro’ the Reef bands to take the Reef points, and again on the Head lining to take the Robands.
Some 150 reef points are required on the Topsail.
 
Once the sails are in place they can be manipulated at any later stage by the simple expediency of wetting them down.
 

The Mizen sail, the Brails that control the sail furling are all in place, there are matching lines on each side of the sail.
 
 

a simple wet down of the sail and haul on the Brails and the sail is loosely furled.
 

 
Modelspan is a tough material and in my workings with I had no failures.
 
 

 

I would use modelspan for kitting out models certainly up to 1:96 scale.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Detail shots of the completed model


Long boat with the sheep pens beneath.
 

Activity on the Qtr deck, the crew are converted ‘N’ scale rail figures.
 

Poop deck detail.
 

 

Crew ascending the Main shrouds.
 

Fore deck detail.
 

Crew at the Fore Topmast head.
 

 

Head details.
 


 

 

Stern Qtr details.
 
 
Full shots of the model
 


 

 
 

 

 

 

 

Secure in her protective case.
 
I think this has been the most exacting build I have undertaken due to the small scale and my
less than good eyesight, I am very pleased with the result but I don’t think I
will attempt another at this scale.
 
I am much more comfortable with 1:64 scale, as with my current Pegasus build.

B.E.


 


 


 
 
 
 
 


 



 
 
 


 


 


 
 


 


 
 


 


 


 


 
 


 
 


 


 


 


 


 


 

SHEAVES
I have to run the sheet lines through the bulwarks. The plans call for the installation of sheaves. I understand that a sheave is a rectangular box with a pulley inside that the rope slides on. Giving this some thought, and after reviewing some build logs to see how other shipwrights have handled this challenge, I decided to forego installing a pulley wheel in my sheaves. The scale is just too small.
So I compromised. I took some “U” shaped wood stock and cut small pieces off (1 mm). I decided to cut rectangular holes in the side of my ship and insert the chips. I then ran the sheet lines through the channel. When I was done, I have to say it looks like the rope is suspended in the box as if it would if a pulley was indeed installed.
By the way, drilling holes and carving out a rectangular shape in your hull AFTER you have done all of the rigging and installed all of the yards is not recommended. Cutting the hole in the outer hull was ok, but do that on the inside, by reaching through all of the rigging lines, was incredibly delicate.
Hint to fellow Niagara builders.  If you are going to install sheaves, DO IT BEFORE YOU STEP THE MASTS AND DO ANY RIGGING.
This exercise took all evening, and I have 5 more to do.  It looks like it is going to be a “Sheave” week.
 
 
I STARTED BY DRILLING A HOLE THROUGH THE ENTIRE BULWARK, AND THEN CARVED A RECTANGULAR SHAPE WITH THE X-ACTO KNIFE. THE INSIDE BULWARK WAS A REAL "YOU KNOW WHAT"
 


 
 
 
I THEN TOOK A PIECE OF "U" SHAPED STOCK AND CUT 1MM CHIPS.


 
 
 
I BLACKEND IT WITH A SHARPIE. THE ENDGRAIN SOAKED UP THE INK NICELY.

 
 
 
I THEN INSERTED THE SHEAVES WITH A SMALL SPOT OF WOOD GLUE INTO THE SQUARE HOLES. AGAIN, INSTALLING THE INSIDE SHEAVE REQUIRED ME TO REACH THROUGH THE DECK AND RIGGING LINES. I HAD TO DETACH THE ROYAL BACK STAY TO GIVE MY FAT HAND ROOM.

 
 
 
THE FINAL PRODUCT. THE LINE RUNNING THROUGH THE "FAUX" SHEAVE IS ACCEPTABLE.

 
 
 
 

Dear Jason,
 
i would like ask you from what material you made waterline...?
 
You said:
I drilled some small holes in the waterline batten to simulate nails and highlighted with pencil, these are not to scale but felt it gives it a little bit more functional relevance.
 
I made copper shield on my HMS Pegasus and i dont know, how to and what to do waterline.
 
Thank you a lot
Michal
 

Wonderful build! Congratulations!

Looks great.

Looks great.

Looks great.

LATEST PHOTOS OF THE NIAGARA.
 
And here are some updated photos of the Niagara in its new shipyard.
 
 

SPANKER THROAT HALLIARD AND TOPPING LIFT COLLAR, COURSE LIFTS, TOPSAIL LIFTS, BACK STAYS
 
More work on the main mast. And I hit a snag with the Spanker Throat Halliard Collar.  I installed the collar around the top of the spanker mast ok. I actually cut a grove in the spanker mast to allow the collar to sit in before I installed it. Good planning. But I forgot to seize the double block to the Spanker Gaff. With the Spanker Gaff already pinned in place, and having already fully rigged it, I was reluctant to UNDO everything just to seize a block.
 
Therefore, I was forced to seize that block on the ship.  The seizing rope wraps around the base of the gaff and passes through two holes in the jaws (I did put the holes in before installing). That is now a very busy place. I used a very long strand of .012 black rope so that I could pull it far away from the gaff, and was able to tie a whipping knot that wrapped around the double block, and pulled it tight to the gaff.
 
I rigged the Topping Lift Collar with .018 rope for the Spanker Boom
.
I rigged the Topsail Lifts and belayed them to the pin rail.
 
I rigged the Course Yard with .018 and belayed them to pre-installed tackles at the base of the main mast.
 
I also belayed a number of the loose running rigging ropes, including the t’gallant clew line and sheets.  Those pass through the fairlead on the shrouds and belayed to the pin rail.
 
​I belayed the Course Truss lines.
 
​I also tied off all of the back stays with the small kit supplied deadeyes.
 
I am getting pretty close to finishing off the rigging I chose to do. I have not included any large scale photos lately, so here you go.

COURSE YARD AND SPANKER BOOMS
 
Winter Weekends in North East Ohio are good for modelling. I was able to accomplish a lot.
 
I dressed up the course yard. I seized all of the blocks, attached the foot ropes and jackropes. After doing all of that on the bench, I pinned the yard to the mast… my last yard!
 
I then rigged up the course yard sling and truss. As stated, the block and tackles (with .018 lanyards) for the truss were seized to the yard before raising. All I had to do was to run the lanyard.  I will belay it to the deck later.
 
I then turned my attention to the Spanker Boom and Gaff. I previously seized all of the blocks and thimbles. I also tied up a knotted foot rope. I used a .018 rope and tied a serious of half hitch knots and seized it to the boom.
 
Attaching the boom and gaff to the spanker mast was very tricky.  I decided to pin the throats to the spanker mast. The first challenge was drilling a hole in the whopping 1/8 diameter dowel. I used a micro drill bit and decided to use a .026 wire for the pin. I marked and drilled the holes for the spanker mast before I mounted it.
 
I also drilled the holes on the spanker jaws. 
 
Lining them up however to attach the boom and gaff was another challenge. The boom was easier. The Gaff was one of those @^*&$ moments. Too much “stuff” in the way.
 
I also tied on a rope parrel with small eyebolts (the smallest I could twist up). I tied one end with a whipping before I installed the booms. I had to tie the other end on the model. Again, a very difficult procedure. I used a .018 rope. Threading the end around the spanker mast and through the small eyebolt on the other side was difficult. I used a long length of rope so that I could pull the ends away from the eyebolt to tie a whipping. Once tied, I carefully pulled the end to slide the knot to the eyebolt and tightened up the entire assembly. This took most of the morning, and alas, when done, YOU CAN'T EVEN SEE IT!
 
Oh well, I know it is there, but in a few days, I will forget it.
 
Once the boom and gaff were pinned in place, I was able to rig the topping lift for the boom.  The blocks in the tree were previously installed.  I used a .018 tan rigging rope. I also attached the tackles and belayed them to eyebolts in the waterway.
 
I then rigged the spanker gaff. Again, I used a .018 tan rope. I temporarily tied the ends off on cleats on the railing.
 
It is starting to look like a sailing ship.

Joshua, here you can see the use of the 50/50 glue mix on these lift lines tied off at the belaying pins.
 

 
One of the advantages of making your own rope is that you can have coils all over the deck while glue dries.
 

A milestone attained! Masts are in place with all the yards having their lift and halyard lines tied off. 

 
Now back to the bowsprit and starting there to add the braces for all the yards and more rope making. Once back to the mizzen I will then add the spanker and boom since I still have to rotate the ship end for end while working on each side.

Hi everyone
 
Almost nearing the end of the scratch build of this miniature Dorade. I've added some more rigging, lifelines and a lifreaft (which still needs some cleaning up and final detail work) and also black hull fenders.
 
Hope you enjoy the photos!
 
Cheers

Hi everyone
 
Almost finished. I've added the life guard rings (I can't think of their proper name!) onto the mizzen mast's rigging, a radar dome on the mizzen mast ( as per the real ship), navigation lights and a completed liferaft.
 
I've also inluded some interior shots, just for the sake of it!
 
All that's left to be done is to do the display stand, put coils of rigging on the winch drums and perform a general clean up.
 
Hope you all enjoy the photos!

I'm back.  To answer modlerbob's question (above), I do not plan on installing the props.  It's not really my vision of the ship.
 
Minor additions to the deck - the cavel and mooring blocks, the pin and cleat platform at the bow, two small ladders (shown here side by side just for the photo) and finally I did the catheads and supports.
 

Finally some more progress - I've created and installed the sampson posts and the windlass.  Both are glued on deck.  I would like to run black thread down from the pump handles to the windlass to simulate the wire, but it's fairly tricky work.  Maybe I can blacken some brass wire for the same effect and glue in place.
 
 

A brief update... and a little milestone!
 
I finished first planking on the starboard side... Now I'm working down the port side.
 

 
And here she is on her new stand - not perfect, but it's nice and solid, and it'll do for building purposes.
 

 
Thanks for looking in and the likes and encouragement

Build log part 44
 
 
 
rigging the sails part 1 of 2
 
 
 

the wire in the bottom boltrope gives some bulging Appeal to the sails
 

the bulge in vertical direction is given by the brail ropes setting
 

now the leech- clew and burlines have to be attached
 

the gaffsails of the mizzenmast are attached to spanned wires parallel to the gaffyard beams and to the mizzen mast
 

ratlines completed and triangle stay-sails mounted
 

 
 

here again the effect of the wire reinforcement in the bottom boltropes
 

Crew entering up the shrouds on to the Yards, to fasten the sails, when Standing on the horses
 

 

 
 
 
Build log part 45 to follow
 
Nils

I filled the slight gaps in the prop cones and touched them up with a mix of Yellow Ochre, White and Black. I went over them several times with an almost dry brush to try and get a similar effect to the printing, and got it pretty close .
 
Then I fitted the legs to the bearing housings and glued the props to the shafts. I've also made and fitted the Rudder. It has a piece of 1mm wire inserted and drilled into the hull for strength :


Are they right John? I hope so, otherwise the pics in the instructions are wrong .
 
 
  Danny

I think this item is a small Range Finder (correct me if I'm wrong - the kit doesn't give any idea of what most of the assemblies are.) Small items like this are usually harder to make than large ones. This one is 3mm square :


There are about 24 parts to the large Range Finder. I am very happy with the way this assembly has come together, just some minor edges to touch up :


The roof of the bridge is curved so it has a ceiling and several ribs to form and support the top skin :

I made a small error when trimming the edge of the roof to accept the walls, so I had to cut the walls into three pieces to get everything aligned properly. Two small tabs give extra strength on the cuts :

 
  Danny