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Everything posted by Gaetan Bordeleau
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Photo 1-2 : marking 2 lines, 1 each side. Each one is mulitiplied by 2 to scribe about 240 notches on 4 rows of planks. Photo 3 : 1 trash can of shavings for 3 masts, bowsprit was already done. Photo 4-5 : aligning the mast, first 90 degree then a negative angle to take the wind. Photo 6 : Experts said : Taking a 2 by 10 to make a model is a total waste of time.
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I do not think that measuring the thickness is a good quality insurance test. Parallelism of the 2 main sides is more relevant. The usual procedure to cut planks from a 2 X 10 is to use the jointer to have 1 side straight. The table saw gives 2 sides perpendicular. And finally with the planer, you have the remaining 2 opposites sides parallels. For the last operation, side parallelism, planer is preferable, even if it is possible to replace the planer by the table saw. Which is the most difficult tool to use between these 3? The table saw. The saw cut parallel with the table saw parallel but depending how we push the plank, more or less accurate results are produced. With the planer, more consistent results are achieve, you enter the plank and the machine does the rest. With this tool, you can reach standard thickness for wood. You cannot reach ‘’standard metal thickness’’ to ,001’’. Drum sander is more precise in the thickness simply because of the screw lenght. ,005’’ result are easily obtainable but the screw is not calibrated to reach ,001’’. With the drum sander, you can reach consistent thickness, because again, you enter the wood and the machine does the rest. The planer and the drum sander do the same operation and they do it well : they give a parallel side. If I measure the thickness at different lenght, constant results will show. In french, we have a proverb which goes like this : a chain cannot be stronger than the weakest link. In these operations, which one is? This is my hand which push the plank on the table saw. The drum sander is use in last to make sure both sides are parallel. What do I need to measure to make sure? Thickness on both sides at both ends, similar results are needed.
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Greetings Carabrente, When applying oils, there is always an excess. When it is for small parts, I use a kleenex, When it is for large area, I use a towel. Tung oil advantages In comparison with linen oil by example, tung oil is more a pure oil, a clearer oil, with less contaminate. The main purpose: enhance wood grain. Interesting effect: make the wood look like 100 years older, and this instantly! Important advantage: no reflects when taking pictures, especially with the flash. I would think that in comparison with other oil as Teck oil and shellac by example, one important thing to avoid: do not apply too many coats. Often 1 coat is enough, occasionaly 2 coats are needed. If you apply too many coats, a build up effects appears which is particularly visible when taking a photo with a flash. This crust is acting as a mirror. Tung oil penetrates easily in wood, but not through the glue. When I glue 2 parts together, I always try to put the minimum glue so that there are no excess overfilling. When dry, excess glue acts as a fence, oil does not penetrates and then the color is different.
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Thank you Sirs, Kees de mol, the reason is, on the fish picture, it is natural wood, and then 1 coat of tung oil is applied.
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Hi Chris, I do not think skill is involve, cherry, fruit tree is involve and also the scale. Another reason I tried the cherry version is that I found expensive the price of exotic woods in the previous build, especially ebony. Except for the top, the rest is now complete.
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Thank you very much Bill. When I began that build, I decided to use 100% cherry wood for many reasons. One of these to show that decent results can be achieve for the body and for the sculptures too. To always buy exotic wood can be pretty much expensive. More differents colors can be use, but in this build, which is the first time I try to use only 1 kind of wood. In Canada and the US, it is easy to get cherry wood. Also among the local woods this is probably the more stable wood we have. Here are some results for the dolphins. Eyes are glued. Scales are still to be done. 2 sides are correctly shape and the union of the 2 sides is done with a curve. This is an interesting work requiring concentration, where you need to take your time to enjoy the work. To facilitate the work you must work within the capacity of the tool and do not try to overuse it. I like to finish the parts with diamond bits, it works slowly but it is easier to control what you want to achieve.
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What was I thinking this morning while having a coffee? I do not know where to put and I do not want to start for the tenth time a new thread on the subject of rope diameter. Why the relation between the number of ropes versus diameter of the rope is an hyperbola. If we add cables one next to the other and draw a graphic to show the relation between these 2 elements, it will be a straight line at 45 degres, both parameters progresses simultaneously at the same rate. When we turn ropes together, a new factor appears : compression. The more cables there are, the more squeezing force develops. This compression force affects the diameter of the cable which increases slower than the number of ropes. This deceleration in one axis, affects the straight line; brakes it in the direction of the diameter, causing the straight line changes in a curve shaping as a parabola.
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Hi Mark, I did have to read a lot to be able to see the entire sequence, but colors are nicer everywhere, and this is very pleasant for the eyes to see nice colors. Also, I might change the printer under guarantee just because to print I need to uncheck a box, but this has still to be finalised with Canon. I did my best to try to calibrate with Apple parameters, but the results of a human eye cannot compare with a calibrated spectrophotometer. May be I should have a calibrated eye!
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I began the second dolphin. I received the last link to be able to process photo control from camera to printer.To take a picture with an DSLR camera, you need to control 2 things : light and color. How much light is entering in the camera is the white balance, a feature of the camera itself. To control the color, a photo of a calibrated Color Checker passport is taken which is a color chart. The monitor is calibrated taking into account the ambient light. On the picture the monitor can adjust at a lower height than what his original base would allow. Even if Apple do not want anymore that we remove the base, I did not like the height, so I cut the base and replaced with a better one. The program Adobe Lightroom, corrects the picture and apply printing adjustments. The printer, the last component of the chain, also needs calibration. The paper also have a specific profile depending his features. Color Munki Photo is a spectrophotometer use for the calibration of the monitor and the printer. It also can be use as a light meter to measure ambient light in Lux. To verify the calibration, a print is compared with the monitor and they should look like similar.
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Greg, #11 main handicap is surely as you say difficulty to hold as soon as there is torsion in the blade. exacto blade has the advantage of the disadvantage of #11 blade. To make it easy, 2 reasons why I prefer #11 blade: easier to cut than with exacto because the blade is sharper. May be I could compare this to be using a veritas plane and an ordinary plane. Better control can be achieve with veritas plane, and the better I control the blade, the better will be the result!
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Hi Druxey, you are so right about preconception. I also saw it in an article about exacto versus chirurgical blade #11. To my great surprise exacto blades seems more popular than #11 blade. But I guess that this misconception will change when they will try #11 after few days. To come back to cherry which is easily available for me. I do not use holly as you simply because it is not available in Quebec, but I bought some planks many years ago. I will show other cherry sculptures, but before I will pass by Paris to show you some dolphins. To be able to begin the dolphins (photo 1), some additionnal drawings are required. The first reference I found is (photo 2) This picture could be coming from Paris but I do not know. I prefer another one : Fontana del tritone 1642 (photo 3) by one of the best sculptor; Gian Lorenzo Bernini. In the same order Antonio Canova did Cupid and Psyche (photo 4). For those wondering if cherry can take details, I did in 1999 a copy of this work (photo 5). To finalize the drawings, I did combine a picture of another french for the body and the face of Bernini dolphins (photo 6). Finally, to have an idea why there are so much ornementation in this period, look a table from the Baroque period (photo 7).
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Hi Mauricio, In comparison with the previous model, the 74 built at the same scale, 70% wasmade with cherry. I even paid $50 US a judge in a competition to tell me this: ''The biggest issue with this model was the choice of wood used. In many cases, the grain appeared out of scale.'' I must have some comprehension problems, 100% of the actual wood for this build is cherry. Even sculptures are made with cherry. According traditions, sculptures were made with boxwood. How could we know if different woods can be use if nobody try it? I also experienced cherry for sculptures in the 74 also and I was please with the results. I was very satisfy with the resulting colors on the 74. For Le Fleuron, I wanted to try a different wood combination and I understand that when at least 3 peoples look at the model, there is a good chance that at least one will not like it.
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Thank you Chris, and I look forward to see your next build, a french 74. Cherry I bought in a lot, there was up to 12 inches wide, and the color was deep. For the pictures; cherry + 1 coat of tung oil. As you can observe on the picture, the color look natural because tung oil is I believe the a quite pure oil contrary to what could be linen seed oil. Also another very important advantage of tung oil, when you take pictures , often you can see reflexions on the wood surfaces especially with shellac, but this does not happen with tung oil. Also I went deep with the pictures, making it looking the wood darker.
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COMPLETING 2D PARTS Progression continues, 2D portion is now completed. I tried to do it in 1 block. This way it is easier to have the same style in the carvings. To give a bigger volume to the 2D parts, many were cut in a thicker plank than require (especially the flowers) in a way, trying to make it look bit more 3D than it is really. Some parts were directly made from the plans, other were made according the place on the exact place where i twill be install on the model. This way the parts fits before to be carved. Remaining sculptures are 3D noted in red on the original drawings. On the first picture. On the second picture, 4 pictures regrouped to give an idea of the progression of the construction; which is similar in many ways to a house : framing, walls, moldings and decoration on the other pics. The third pic is to show how to work standing having every thing at the good height.
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Is there a better #11 blade handle
Gaetan Bordeleau replied to roach101761's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have been using and trying many differents kinds of knives since many years. In the hobby knife category: LEFT 1 2 3 does not cut very much steel too soft 4 5 6 same family higher grade than exacto 7 8 interesting MIDDLE exacto and metal surgical handle execptionally use RIGHT laguignole every time I touch the blade on the first one I bought to see how much it is cutting, I was cutting myself. The highest grade of steel I have seen. Cuts very much but not really done for hobby use. Acrylic handle, this is almost the only knive I use. The blade has no cutting comparison with exacto, much less strenght is needed to cut so greater precision is achieved. I would compare this to using a scroll saw. with a cheap one it is difficult if not impossible to slice paper thin slice of wood. With a good one like Hegner precision is no comparison and you can cut paper thin slices. -
Thanks for your kind comments. Up to know this is almost only 2d sculptures. To take the beat, I began with the easiest ones and progress towards most difficult ones. Also if I observe only 1 sculpture by itself, it looks ordinary, but the more I add ordinary ones, the better they look together. Also remember the scale, twice bigger, twice looking better!
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First picture, tools used for sculptures Would you beleive that there is a learning curve about buying a hobby knife? First, everybody buy an Exacto because at the begining we do not know that scalpel blades are available for the hobby market or if we know the existence we beleive that this is for the surgeon and someday realize that exacto blades do not cut that much. Then he discovers scalpel blades with a metal handle. He soon realizes that often tools are made for specific jobs. The good side, the blade cuts way more than an exacto blade and also with much less pressure and as a bonus more precision can also be achieve with it. The bad side, if we can say, is that care must be taken in the way that this tool cannot be use with excessive pressure, if so broken blade can easily happen. Finally, one last step. While he learns to use scalpel blade and appreciate it, he discovers a problem with the metal handle. When working long hours holding the handle, the handle ‘’corners’’ become to be cutting the skin. For this, one solution, acrylic sleeve handle. After that some cutting knives will never be use. Last picture, the weekly quizz question : How many small parts did I lost since I installed this kind of black rubber floor more than 1 year ago? Seeing that objects drop are rarely black, objects are often contrasting with the floor. Aswer; none.
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Is there a better #11 blade handle
Gaetan Bordeleau replied to roach101761's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I compared the weight and Exacto blade is 30% heavier than #11. Both blades are sharpen on both sides and can be use as easily with right or left hand Usual knife blade is sharpen 1 side only Exacto blade has a second sharpening angle So what happens when somebody sharpens an exacto blade? The second angle of the blade disappears and then the shape of the exacto cutting blade is in the same style as #11... photo 1 blade exacto #11 photo 2 blade exacto top #11 bottom -
Is there a better #11 blade handle
Gaetan Bordeleau replied to roach101761's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
in fact you need at least 2 knives 1 with the #11 blade, exacto is far behind and needs much more pressure to cut 1 with a thicker blade when you need to apply greater strenght, and there are many choices and this one you have to hone it yourself and diamond is the fastest way to hone #11 and exacto blades are hones very differently, I have a picture somewhere taken to the microscope to show it I will try to fond it
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