Robert29

Hi Graham, as always you come up with brilliant ideas how to tackle certain jobs. Those decorative scrolls are beautiful. I had also made some changes to the scrolls on my model,  but your idea is impressive.  Keep up you good work.
 
Robert

Hi Graham, as always you come up with brilliant ideas how to tackle certain jobs. Those decorative scrolls are beautiful. I had also made some changes to the scrolls on my model,  but your idea is impressive.  Keep up you good work.
 
Robert

Hi Graham, as always you come up with brilliant ideas how to tackle certain jobs. Those decorative scrolls are beautiful. I had also made some changes to the scrolls on my model,  but your idea is impressive.  Keep up you good work.
 
Robert

Finally HMS Victory long voyage comes to an end. I have posted a few photos but first of all I would like to thank all those who in any way contributed to my build, those  who posted directly into my log, those who's logs I visited and took countless ideas, my log's followers and those who contributed with their encouraging comments and likes.  I hope that my build would be of help to other builders,  like so many others have been to me. Now I have to order an acrylic case to cover it and a table.  I will post an image of it when I have it ready.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Images with the lights on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Robert
 
 

Thank you Charter, Heinz and all for the likes.  
 
Heinz,  ha, ha, when I go through your Victory build I say the same thing, 'Wish I have his skills"!!!! I admire your beautiful work. 
 
Robert
 
Regards

Thank you all for the comments.
 
Bruce,
As for the lighting, electronic wise I tried to keep it as simple as possible.  Anything that goes wrong you cannot repair inside the model. The system only involves led's, a resistor for each led and wired them in parallel so I can put as much led's as I want to, just calculate the total amperage of the led's, and make sure the power supply (transformer, its practically impossible to run all those led's on batteries) has the adequate amperage. The other advantage of having them in parallel is that if any led or resistor is burnt, which is very unlikely, will not effect the others. Where possible I also wired them in a ring circuit so that if I have a wire becoming disconnected they will still have the voltage supply on them.  My main concern was that I did not want to let any wiring showing, not even the once going out to the power supply.  A thing I wish I would have done is have  added just a few hanging lanterns on the quarterdeck and the bow so when lit in the dark more details could be seen. This would have been more difficult to hide the wiring.  All in all I am quite satisfied with the result, but obviously there are always some things you would do differently if you had to do them agin.
 
Robert

Thank you all for the comments.
 
Bruce,
As for the lighting, electronic wise I tried to keep it as simple as possible.  Anything that goes wrong you cannot repair inside the model. The system only involves led's, a resistor for each led and wired them in parallel so I can put as much led's as I want to, just calculate the total amperage of the led's, and make sure the power supply (transformer, its practically impossible to run all those led's on batteries) has the adequate amperage. The other advantage of having them in parallel is that if any led or resistor is burnt, which is very unlikely, will not effect the others. Where possible I also wired them in a ring circuit so that if I have a wire becoming disconnected they will still have the voltage supply on them.  My main concern was that I did not want to let any wiring showing, not even the once going out to the power supply.  A thing I wish I would have done is have  added just a few hanging lanterns on the quarterdeck and the bow so when lit in the dark more details could be seen. This would have been more difficult to hide the wiring.  All in all I am quite satisfied with the result, but obviously there are always some things you would do differently if you had to do them agin.
 
Robert

Thank you all for the comments.
 
Bruce,
As for the lighting, electronic wise I tried to keep it as simple as possible.  Anything that goes wrong you cannot repair inside the model. The system only involves led's, a resistor for each led and wired them in parallel so I can put as much led's as I want to, just calculate the total amperage of the led's, and make sure the power supply (transformer, its practically impossible to run all those led's on batteries) has the adequate amperage. The other advantage of having them in parallel is that if any led or resistor is burnt, which is very unlikely, will not effect the others. Where possible I also wired them in a ring circuit so that if I have a wire becoming disconnected they will still have the voltage supply on them.  My main concern was that I did not want to let any wiring showing, not even the once going out to the power supply.  A thing I wish I would have done is have  added just a few hanging lanterns on the quarterdeck and the bow so when lit in the dark more details could be seen. This would have been more difficult to hide the wiring.  All in all I am quite satisfied with the result, but obviously there are always some things you would do differently if you had to do them agin.
 
Robert

Thank you all for the comments.
 
Bruce,
As for the lighting, electronic wise I tried to keep it as simple as possible.  Anything that goes wrong you cannot repair inside the model. The system only involves led's, a resistor for each led and wired them in parallel so I can put as much led's as I want to, just calculate the total amperage of the led's, and make sure the power supply (transformer, its practically impossible to run all those led's on batteries) has the adequate amperage. The other advantage of having them in parallel is that if any led or resistor is burnt, which is very unlikely, will not effect the others. Where possible I also wired them in a ring circuit so that if I have a wire becoming disconnected they will still have the voltage supply on them.  My main concern was that I did not want to let any wiring showing, not even the once going out to the power supply.  A thing I wish I would have done is have  added just a few hanging lanterns on the quarterdeck and the bow so when lit in the dark more details could be seen. This would have been more difficult to hide the wiring.  All in all I am quite satisfied with the result, but obviously there are always some things you would do differently if you had to do them agin.
 
Robert

Finally HMS Victory long voyage comes to an end. I have posted a few photos but first of all I would like to thank all those who in any way contributed to my build, those  who posted directly into my log, those who's logs I visited and took countless ideas, my log's followers and those who contributed with their encouraging comments and likes.  I hope that my build would be of help to other builders,  like so many others have been to me. Now I have to order an acrylic case to cover it and a table.  I will post an image of it when I have it ready.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Images with the lights on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Robert
 
 

Very nicely done Graham.  
 
Robert

Looking forward to see your work on the Victory Mort.
 
Robert
 

Finally HMS Victory long voyage comes to an end. I have posted a few photos but first of all I would like to thank all those who in any way contributed to my build, those  who posted directly into my log, those who's logs I visited and took countless ideas, my log's followers and those who contributed with their encouraging comments and likes.  I hope that my build would be of help to other builders,  like so many others have been to me. Now I have to order an acrylic case to cover it and a table.  I will post an image of it when I have it ready.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Images with the lights on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Robert
 
 

Thank you for the Likes.
 
Fore and Main Mast Yard clue lines, sheets and tacks rigged in.
 
 
Tack, Sheet and Clue garnet strop assembly.

 
Fore Yard Tack made fast to the end of the boomkin, up to the 7mm single tack block on the strop assembly, down through another 7mm single block seized to the boomkin and belays to the top of the headrail.
The Yard Sheet standing end is made fast to an eyelet on the hull up to the 7mm single block, back to the hull and passes through the ships side to the upper gun deck where it belays to a large cleat.


 
Main Yard Tack is tied to an eye on the hull up to the single block, down to the side of the hull again, first passing through a hole on the side of the chesstree then through a sheave hole on the side of the hull to the upper gundeck where it is belayed to a large cleat.

The Main Yard Sheet is tied to an eyelet below the spider, up to the 7mm single block, down again through another single block held in a pendant (standing end of pendant is tied to an eyelet behind the spider and passes through the ring of the spider)  then up again and passes through a sheave hole in the hull to the quarter deck and belayed to the staghorn.
 
Main Yard Sheet coming in through the sheave hole just behind the poop deck stairs and belayed to the staghorn.

 
Now it is also time to start adjusting the yard horses and giving them that sagging look.  I am using small clips to weigh down the line, brush over the line with PVA glue, heavily diluted with water, let it dry and remove clips. The clips jaws are not clamped on the horse line, otherwise it will distort the line. There is an open space just behind the jaws.  Result is quite satisfactory.  If you look at the Fore Yard horses which are already done, and at the Main Yard horses, not yet done, you can see the difference.

 
An overall image how she looks at the moment.

 
Also started looking how to hang the anchors to the sides of the hull and the cathead falls.   The first thing I noticed was that erroneously, when forming the the triple blocks I formed a groove around them to take the rope.  They are not seized to any rope.  After sourcing some information on the internet I found that the end of the falls is tied to an eye on the underside of the cathead, and a tackle is formed between the cathead and the block.  The block itself has an iron bar going around it with an eye formed at the bottom and a hook attached to it. 

 
To simulate the iron band I glued a strip of styrene around the block, at the same time covering the groove I had previously made.  Formed a hook and a U shape with a piece of a brass rod and glued the U shaped rod in two holes drilled on the underside of the block.  Band, hook and eye will be painted black.


Robert

Driver Gaff and Driver Boom shipped in place.

 
End of Driver Gaff

 
End of Driver Boom

 
Tops railings in place. For the moment only dry fitted just in case I need to remove them.




 
Next step is the rigging of the clue lines, sheets and tacks for the Fore Yard and the Main Yard.  I can also start adjusting the yard horses to a sagging look and find a method to start doing the rope coils for all the belaying ends.
 
Robert
 
 
 

Most of the Braces in place.
 
 
Spritsail Yard Braces and Spritsail Topmast Braces rigged in place.

 
Fore Yard Braces

 
Fore Topmast Braces

Fore Topgallant Braces

 
Main Topmast Yard Brace and Crossjack Brace.  Note how the Crossjack Braces cross each other.

Main Topgallant Brace.

 



 
I left the main yard braces loose for the moment as otherwise they will be a bit in the way when installing the Driver Gaff and the Driver Boom.  Now I have started work on the Driver Gaff and the Driver Boom which will also enable me to finish the main yard braces, the  mizzen topmast braces and the topgallant braces.  
 
At the moment the yard horses are haywire, going in every direction.  Whilst rigging I keep hitting them so I might as well leave them and adjust them, giving them that hanging effect,  when I have all the rigging finished.
 
Robert.

Richard and Malcolm, thank you for your comments and thank you all for your likes.
 
Topmast and Topgallant Yard Sheets and Cluelines ready.

 
Fore Topgallant Yard Sheet and Clueline from the rear.  

Fore Topmast Yard Sheet and Clueline from the rear.

 
Fore Topmast Yard Sheet.

 
Main Topmast Yard Sheets and Cluelines.
 
Main Topmast Yard Sheet and Clueline from the rear.

 
Mizzen Topgallant Yard Sheet and Clueline.

 
Mizzen Topmast and Topgallant Yard Sheets and Cluelines

 
Now I have to decide if I my next step will be rigging the Yard Braces or else start working on the rope coils.  I am thinking that if I don't start fitting the rope coils now it might be much more difficult to reach the pins and cleats when there are more ropes rigged in.
 
Robert. 
 
 

Finally HMS Victory long voyage comes to an end. I have posted a few photos but first of all I would like to thank all those who in any way contributed to my build, those  who posted directly into my log, those who's logs I visited and took countless ideas, my log's followers and those who contributed with their encouraging comments and likes.  I hope that my build would be of help to other builders,  like so many others have been to me. Now I have to order an acrylic case to cover it and a table.  I will post an image of it when I have it ready.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Images with the lights on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Robert
 
 

Finally HMS Victory long voyage comes to an end. I have posted a few photos but first of all I would like to thank all those who in any way contributed to my build, those  who posted directly into my log, those who's logs I visited and took countless ideas, my log's followers and those who contributed with their encouraging comments and likes.  I hope that my build would be of help to other builders,  like so many others have been to me. Now I have to order an acrylic case to cover it and a table.  I will post an image of it when I have it ready.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Images with the lights on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Robert
 
 

Some more detail to the Main Stay tackle Pendants.



 
 

 
Robert

The main stay fore tackle need some more tensioning.
 
 
Robert

Thank you Graham.  Hope it could be an idea  to other builders.   I found so many ideas in this forum from other builders in building my Victory. 
 
Anchors rigged in place as well.  I  deviated a bit from the manual's instructions on how the anchors are secured.  I included some chain as seen in many of the pictures I sourced.
 
 
Starboard Sheet Anchor.


 
The Bower Starboard Anchor.  Apart from the chain I also added the rope tied the the lower end of the anchor. Button I have no clue where the other end of this rope is belayed.  The same with the running end of the cat head tackle line.  The manual says it is to be belayed around the cathead at the cathead cleat.  Shouldn't it be belayed somewhere on board behind the bulwark!!! Maybe I am wrong, I am no expert,  any suggestions would be appreciated. 



 
Robert
 

Finally HMS Victory long voyage comes to an end. I have posted a few photos but first of all I would like to thank all those who in any way contributed to my build, those  who posted directly into my log, those who's logs I visited and took countless ideas, my log's followers and those who contributed with their encouraging comments and likes.  I hope that my build would be of help to other builders,  like so many others have been to me. Now I have to order an acrylic case to cover it and a table.  I will post an image of it when I have it ready.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Images with the lights on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Robert
 
 

Finally HMS Victory long voyage comes to an end. I have posted a few photos but first of all I would like to thank all those who in any way contributed to my build, those  who posted directly into my log, those who's logs I visited and took countless ideas, my log's followers and those who contributed with their encouraging comments and likes.  I hope that my build would be of help to other builders,  like so many others have been to me. Now I have to order an acrylic case to cover it and a table.  I will post an image of it when I have it ready.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Images with the lights on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Robert
 
 

Some more detail to the Main Stay tackle Pendants.



 
 

 
Robert

The main stay fore tackle need some more tensioning.
 
 
Robert

Thank you Ian and Graham.  Getting closer to the finish. 
 
Fitted two flags and tried to make them look as realistic as possible.
 
 
I used glue purposely for fabric.  The brand is Guttermann, had used it on sails for another model, very good stuff.  Didn't want to risk other glue, so for that very little bit I had to buy a new one, as the previous one I had, had dried up. 
Put glue on one side, placed the thread and attached the two faces.

 
 
With a couple of clips I arranged the flag to look like it is sort of flying, then. with a brush I wetted it all with water and let it dry again.   When I removed the clips it kept the shape.
 

 
The ensign staff fitted in place and the ensign hoisted in place.  


 
The Union Jack also hoisted in place on the Jackstaff. 


 
Still have to fit the pennant. But first I have to check exactly where it goes and how it is fitted.
 
 
Robert