Jump to content

Roger Pellett

NRG Member
  • Posts

    4,519
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Roger Pellett

  1. If the kit manufacturer spent even a slight bit of time doing research before they offered the kit for sale, they would have realized that the “restored” vessel in Baltimore Harbor was an historic fraud. Noted American maritime historian and naval architect Howard I. Chapelle had been writing about the impossibility of the ship in Baltimore Harbor being the same vessel as the frigate launched in 1797 since 1946. His books discussing this have been readily available. Finally, the US Navy published “Fouled Anchors” and convinced the Baltimore City father’s to restore her back to her 1953 appearance. Roger
  2. Sailing rig nomenclature is regionally dependent. Names, like the rigs that they referred to were invented by those who used them, without reference to a nautical dictionary. For example, can anyone explain what a “square rigged bugeye” is; or a “three sail bateau”? The term “Tall Ship” that I agree is meaningless was taken from John Masefield’s poem: “I must go down to the sea again, to the lonely sea and the sky, and all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by.”
  3. Nice work Steven. I think that you have copied her look nicely. The Mary Rose and the 120 years later (give or take) Red Bay Galleon are really still the lower “boat shaped hull” with separate fore and after castles built atop. Your model clearly shows this. BTW: I wish that I had your model building skills when I was at the age that you were when you started this. Your model started so many years ago was clearly worth restoring and completing. Roger
  4. I have a pair of ear muff hearing protectors that I bought many years ago for target shooting. These do a great job of blocking out sound, even that from a full sized table saw or a noisy air compressor. While not a solution for apartment dwellers, they in my opinion solve the problem in my basement workshop.
  5. My Byrnes saw was purchased prior to the “high fence” option. Before beginning a new project, I would like to add the higher fence. I notice that Jim’s site includes an option for a extended fence. Can this be purchased separately and be added by the user or does the saw have to be sent back to Jim. I am naturally concerned about correct alignment. Roger
  6. Wise guy? No! Not at all. Your construction of this beautiful model is evidence of your research. Thanks for sharing it with us. Roger
  7. A wonderful model! You have nicely captured what I think that one of these ancient vessels should look like- Light and Graceful. Roger
  8. Thanks Keith, it looks like a separate distilling plant was state of the art in the mid 1860’s. Good research!
  9. If you are going to build a sailing ship to a miniature scale, why do you need a kit? Many miniaturists seem to build these models with few tools, and the usual purchased fittings would be way over scale anyway.
  10. I certainly cannot argue about buying high quality tools but I also remember trying to outfit a shop as a newlywed on a beginning engineering salary. In that case, it was either do without or buy what I could afford. Some, but not all of which I have later replaced. As a 45 year NRG member I fully support and have contributed to the organization’s research mission through articles, book reviews, and letters that I have published in the Journal over the years. I believe that support of this mission includes encouraging others to move beyond building tried and true HMS Victory or USS Constitution models by tackling more adventurous projects. If we promote the message that the only way to move beyond a kit subject is to set up a shop full of top of the line tools the barrier for expanding horizons will be too high for many aspiring modelers. While a name brand swiveling base/ rotating head vice may be nice to have, a Harbor Freight model serves the same purpose. With dimishing supplies of cut-to-size specialtized lumber, milling our own will become the norm. A high quality 14in bandsaw sells for about $1500 plus freight, specialized blades, etc; more than many may be willing to pay. Harold Hahn built his remarkable models with an 8in table saw and Sears hollow ground veneer blades. While not ideal, tools like this can still produce outstanding models. Roger
  11. I bought a copy on Amazon yesterday and the illustration says “English Text.” I’ll post a review when it arrives.
  12. Did these ships have separate fresh water distillers? Reciprocating steam engine cylinders were lubricated by spraying liquid tallow into the steam. After passing through the cylinders and condensing the condensate was filtered in an attempt to remove the tallow. Even so, it would seem that this “fresh water” would be nasty stuff to drink. At least this is how the steam cycle worked on Great Lakes vessels. I don’t know the details for these ships.
  13. I prefer the yellow paint job to the red and white shown on the box art. It looks more businesslike.
  14. The reason that I suggested looking at a tutorial is that most consumer grade bandsaws don’t cut straight. This requires that your fence must be adjusted to account for the blade’s tendency to wander. These tutorials will show you how to do this. You can also use a single point fence that allows you to adjust the lead angle as you feed the board through the saw.
  15. You might try setting your bandsaw up to rip this. With a limited quantity of expensive wood, your going to lose at least 1/8in on each pass through your table saw. There are tutorials on the web on using your bandsaw for ripping.
  16. Many years ago there was a company named AMT that advertised low priced power woodworking tools in Popular Mechanics Magazine. I don’t remember prices but they low enough that someone just beginning a career and living in their first purchased home with a mortgage could buy them without feeling guilty. I bought an eight inch table saw. Starting with rough cut pear harvested locally and Howard Chapelle drawings I used this saw to build a Hahn Method POF model of the New York Pilot Boat Express ex Anna Maria. At that time I did not have access to a thickness sander, or a miniature table saw, Byrnes or otherwise. My my point is that even a full size El Cheapo table saw fitted with the right blades will work. In my case, I was able to start with rough cut lumber. Once I had ripped it into rectangular billets, I switched to hollow ground blades to cut strips. Starting with round logs, without a bandsaw splitting with a wedge works. If you live in a cold climate there is often someone that has a powered firewood splitter. Anthony, If I lived where you do, I’d start visiting orange groves to see if they might let me take logs from trees that they are getting rid of. I understand that citrus lumber is excellent for our purpose. Roger
  17. You should use a tight grained hardwood that will withstand shaping and sanding while still maintaining a crisp edge. Assuming that you are not using Castillo, aka boxwood, and want to limit yourself to readily available commercial materials, a good, straight grained maple would be a good choice. Basswood, also readily available is a poor choice; too soft and fuzzy. All of this depends on you having woodworking equipment to rip wood into needed sizes. I believe that Syren still sells Castillo in sheets. Check with them.
  18. To add to the discussion. I have been using CA glue for assembling the model soldiers that I have been painting. I use very little on the end of a toothpick or something smaller. If I use much more, my body tells me so- A nasty sore throat and blocked sinuses. If I tried to use it in any quantity I’d have a severe allergic reaction. To me, whatever limitations PVA glues have are nothing compared to CA. My house here in Duluth was new in 1990 and built to my specifications. We have gas forced air heat and air conditioning. Neverless, we have significant humidity swings. Very low in winter and higher in summer as Duluth summers do not require AC most of the time. My models range in age from new to 45 years old, were built with PVA glues and have held up well
  19. Maybe this should be upgraded to the plastic kit ship model area of the forum? After all it’s a boat, just a flying one.i😆
  20. One last piece of advice in addition, not instead, of the above. Try to pick a subject that will hold your interest. Whatever you decide to do this, by today’s way of looking at things, will be a lengthy project. If in a burst of enthusiasm, and seduced by the box art, you buy something and then lose interest later your kit will join the majority of those never completed. Roger
  21. “ However, in this hobby of ship modeling I think that anyone who is able to make their own drawings whether CAD or manual, is certainly a few steps ahead of someone who lacks these abilities.” Well said, Hank! Without these abilities modelers are limited to modeling a variety of subjects where kits or prepackaged plan sets are not available.
×
×
  • Create New...