Roger Pellett

The post by me about Admiralty draughts was posted to the wrong topic -my goof up.   I intended to post it to the build log for HMS Deadlight where this topic is being discussed.  I certainly had no desire to critique your beautiful model and I apologize.  I removed the post.
 
Roger

Talk about a bluff bow! Nice job Maury.

I don't know if it can be scaled down to model size but a wooden canoe wood bending trick involves shifting the neutral axis of the bend outward by attaching a light metal strap to the outside of the piece while bending it. This reduces the elongation of the wood fibers around the outside arc but increases compression of fibers around the inside arc.  For bending full sized work a light steel strap with a hook that fits over the end of the piece being bent is used.
 
Roger

I don't know if it can be scaled down to model size but a wooden canoe wood bending trick involves shifting the neutral axis of the bend outward by attaching a light metal strap to the outside of the piece while bending it. This reduces the elongation of the wood fibers around the outside arc but increases compression of fibers around the inside arc.  For bending full sized work a light steel strap with a hook that fits over the end of the piece being bent is used.
 
Roger

These are the try outs that did not work

 
And the process for turning the pillars that worked. Had to make my own dowels as did not have any stock in pear
 
 

I present here the latest photos of my Royal Sun. It is not finished and if it interests you I would put you following as work progresses.
Excuse me but not speaking English I use the Google translator

Hi Maury,
 
I second Rogers comments.  I do not find Castello to be very good for bending.  Another species to consider is hard maple.  As always, straight grain is essential.
 
Ed

If you are planning to paint the hull you might consider using a species of wood with better bending properties for these few planks. The NRG shop notes discuss wood bending properties but I believe pear and holly both have superior bend strength.  Also, pay attention to grain orientation.  Are you bending straight grained wood? Flat sawn wood is easier to bend than quarter sawn. You might try bending in two steps. First bend, then steam again and twist.
 
Roger

If you are planning to paint the hull you might consider using a species of wood with better bending properties for these few planks. The NRG shop notes discuss wood bending properties but I believe pear and holly both have superior bend strength.  Also, pay attention to grain orientation.  Are you bending straight grained wood? Flat sawn wood is easier to bend than quarter sawn. You might try bending in two steps. First bend, then steam again and twist.
 
Roger

Eddie,
 
This is an age old problem with me too.  When I started building models, I used the rigging supplied with kits, black and a manila color.  As my skills or maybe obsessions progressed i began to make my own rigging and found it necessary to color it.  At first, I followed the advice of many and stained the standing rigging with Minwax Jacobean and the running rigging with a mix of Golden Oak and Special Walnut adding and wiping until I got the desired color.
 
I later ran into an article written by Erik Ronnberg who recommended Liquid Shoe Polish instead of the oil based stains, I believe stating that the oil based stains would eventually deteriorate.  So I then switched over to a mix of brown shoe polish and black until I achieved the desired effect.  This seemed to work nicely.
 
Then along comes a new article my Erik, who I respect greatly, that is stating problems with fading on the shoe polish and recommends an oil based paint or dye mixed with turpentine and further dissolving bees wax in this mixture saving the independent processes.  I tried this but was having trouble with the colors so I began using a water based dye stain and independently dissolved bees wax in turpentine and carefully pull the rigging through a piece of cotton dipped in the mixture.  This seems to work nicely for me.  
 
Sorry I hope this helps some, I still use the shoe polish on the standing rigging because I need to match what was already completed on this model some time ago when I was struggling through on these trials.  I guess I am so fearful of problems occurring with some of these processes because of my early use of CA glue on rigging and the horrid deterioration that it caused over a period of about 20 years or so.  Good Luck!  I hope I have not rambled too much and further confused the matter.

Bill,
 
Always heard to stay away from tea, even diluted, will deteriorate over time.  Mark mentioned this earlier in this thread.

Another very cheap paint used at the time was red oxide using iron oxide mixed with a binding agent such as linseed oil.  The linseed oil would harden, providing a durable finish.  The iron oxide pigment was finely ground iron ore bearing dirt.  Before the development of UV inhibited varnishes, non-pigmented finishes could be quickly degraded by sunlight.
 
Red oxide primer, now produced in a low VOC water based form is still used as a cheap construction primer.  We used barrels of it in the pipe fabrication industry as a temporary coating for piping that would later be insulated.
 
Roger
 

Another very cheap paint used at the time was red oxide using iron oxide mixed with a binding agent such as linseed oil.  The linseed oil would harden, providing a durable finish.  The iron oxide pigment was finely ground iron ore bearing dirt.  Before the development of UV inhibited varnishes, non-pigmented finishes could be quickly degraded by sunlight.
 
Red oxide primer, now produced in a low VOC water based form is still used as a cheap construction primer.  We used barrels of it in the pipe fabrication industry as a temporary coating for piping that would later be insulated.
 
Roger
 

Another very cheap paint used at the time was red oxide using iron oxide mixed with a binding agent such as linseed oil.  The linseed oil would harden, providing a durable finish.  The iron oxide pigment was finely ground iron ore bearing dirt.  Before the development of UV inhibited varnishes, non-pigmented finishes could be quickly degraded by sunlight.
 
Red oxide primer, now produced in a low VOC water based form is still used as a cheap construction primer.  We used barrels of it in the pipe fabrication industry as a temporary coating for piping that would later be insulated.
 
Roger
 

Another very cheap paint used at the time was red oxide using iron oxide mixed with a binding agent such as linseed oil.  The linseed oil would harden, providing a durable finish.  The iron oxide pigment was finely ground iron ore bearing dirt.  Before the development of UV inhibited varnishes, non-pigmented finishes could be quickly degraded by sunlight.
 
Red oxide primer, now produced in a low VOC water based form is still used as a cheap construction primer.  We used barrels of it in the pipe fabrication industry as a temporary coating for piping that would later be insulated.
 
Roger
 

Another very cheap paint used at the time was red oxide using iron oxide mixed with a binding agent such as linseed oil.  The linseed oil would harden, providing a durable finish.  The iron oxide pigment was finely ground iron ore bearing dirt.  Before the development of UV inhibited varnishes, non-pigmented finishes could be quickly degraded by sunlight.
 
Red oxide primer, now produced in a low VOC water based form is still used as a cheap construction primer.  We used barrels of it in the pipe fabrication industry as a temporary coating for piping that would later be insulated.
 
Roger
 

Making the poop at the stern of the ship.
 
"Poop"
If you ever come to Flanders or the Netherlands and you say "poop" in English
People will probably look strange to you.
 
I searched in wikipedia where this name comes from
The name originates from the French word for stern, la poupe, from Latin puppis.
A good explanation (It has something to do with a certain part of our admiral )
 
Attach supports to the stern.

 
Attach “frames” on the supports

 
2 extra supports for the deck ( there is just enough room between them  to open the door )

 
Planking,  there are two windows for the cabin in the poop.
Cabins in the rear will be planked on the inside.

 
The wales on the stern.
From now on, most of my information will come of old drawings and paintings from the 16th and early 17th century
It seems that no standard can be found in how many wales there are on the stern.
Where there are openings made in the stern, there are apparently wales provided

 
I have thus provided 2 wales
One under the door of the balcony
One under the opening of the helm (At the same level as the lodging knee on the orlop deck).
This could be correct.
There are also 2 small holes made next to the opening of the helm.

 
Thus, the wale (outside) can be attached to the lodging knee (inside)
 
 
 
With some extra detail inside

 

 
Thanks for following this build
 
Index post 1
 

I have scratch built solid hull models with lifts cut from either waterlines or buttocks.  Both can produce good results.  Several years ago I built a hull by setting up thin stations cut from body plan sections with the spaces between filled with soft wood blocks.  This is an easier way to build an accurate hull because the thin body plan sections are in fact templates embedded in the hull.  The problem with this method is that after painting the hull I found several thin cracks running along the joints between the thin section pieces and the filler blocks.  If you are planning to plank the hull anyway you won't have this problem.
 
Since you already have the kit I would set up the bulkheads and fill between with blocks.  Since the bulkheads are supposedly accurate, shaping the hull should be easy.  If you go to the scratch build forum, Ed Tosti has a series of posts about building a 1:96 scale POB model of Young America.  This is the method that he used.
 
Roger

Richard,
 
Thank you,
 
Bench grinders are quite cheap and essential if you are going to be grinding HSS lathe tool blanks. May be time to reinvest!!!!
 
Unfortunately as our crew got older we made less and less mistakes. The mistakes are what created the interesting stories. The last trip we were out for 8 days and we broke nothing, not even a cup, glass or plate. In our damage report we were were scraping the barrel with the most significant defect being about 6 inch of stitching which had come adrift on the mainsail bag zip. I have a few historic stories left and may get round to telling them at some time.

John, Thank you for your continuing interest.
 
Julie, He was besotted from the moment they met and proposed at the top of the Canyon Overlook trail in Zion NP, one knee, ring and all.
 
Nils, Thank you, The deckhouses are natural antique mahogany, I didn't need to stain them. I can recommend cutting up old furniture.
 
 

Here are some shots of the Garagemahal/Goatlocker Shipyard. I am a blessed man and the Admiral is the best. The downstairs area is my woodworking shop, upstairs is the Goatlocker Lounge and Shipyard.
 

Gary's suggestion above The Wooden World  is a very good one for your needs. For example, Chapter VII, Officers contains the following topics: A career at sea, Patronage and Promotion, Authority and Duty.

Hi Techsan,
I'm no expert, but judging by your pictures I would say that you have done a beautiful job so far. I think your model is well worth continuing with. I'm not sure how many of the remaining parts you feel you need to replace, but if you still have the plans, it shouldn't be too difficult to determine what you need and then source them from one or more suppliers, or buy the wood and fashion some of the replacement parts. Another option, although it would be expensive, is to try to obtain a whole second kit and work from it. I know the Mamoli company is not longer in business. Some of their kits are currently available from Dusek, but I don't believe the Constitution is one of them at this point. However, I'll bet you could still find one either through one of the major retailers  or on ebay. I guess a third option would be to finish it off in admiralty style, it's almost there now.
 
However you choose to approach it, I would encourage you to continue with this model. This model is crying out to be finished.
David
 

I had the display case custom built for my office.  Yea - I do have a lot of hobbies - astrophotography, sports cars, pretty much any kind of model building too.  I have a 9 foot shelf HO layout with 7 steam engines.  I guess I like steam engines too.

Steve,
 
also so take a look at the book 'The Wooden World' - 'An Anatomy of the Georgian Navy' by N.A.M. Rodger which is look at the eighteenth century navy, how it worked , and how it fitted in within society.
 
Gary

Hi Steve,
 
It's a small world!  In 1997 my daughter Rebecca, a senior at the University of Michigan wrote a thesis titled Jane Austin and the Royal Navy.  If you google Rebecca Pellett + Jane Austin it is listed on the University's English Department website.  The key document that inspired her to write the thesis was a book of her letters that demonstrated that Miss Austin was very involved in her brothers' careers.  I think that the book was either Jane Austin's Sailor Brothers by John H. Hubback or Jane Austin's Letters by R.W. Chapman as both are listed in her bibliography.
 
In addition to the sources listed by others, The Command of the Ocean by N.A.M. Rodger also includes much on your topic.  It should be easy to find.
 
Roger