Roger Pellett

Michael,
 
What an interesting project! The lifeboats alone are wonderful models, not the crude poorly shaped objects often seen, and the Welin davits too.
 
Regarding miniature wire rope, you might want to check out fishing tackle, specifically cable used to hang downrigger weights. This is seven strand stainless steel so it is real wire rope. I'm not sure how small it comes. One spool that I found on the web listed the diameter as .032in which is a bit large for your purposes but maybe you can find a smaller size.
 
The miniature model maker Lloyd McCaffery writes of spinning rope for his models from nichrome wire. 36ga nichrome wire is available from Amazon.
 
Roger Pellett

What a beautiful model, Michael, and what a shame to see it in that condition!  I'm sure your expertise will be up to the task of bringing her back to life again.
 
John

I was recently commissioned to restore to "Original Condition" A 1:100 model of the steamship Albertic. The model was knocked over and sustained considerable damage to the port side lifeboat deck Funnels and railings along with vents and all sorts of lines and wire stays.
 
I have made extensive photographs of the condition as I received it, and have begun recording the removal of the damaged parts that were still attached, A few surprises that were not evident when I viewed it at the clients premises have come to light.
I cobbled together a quick trolley so that I can move the model around, I will make a lightweight dust cover to keep the dust off the model.
 
I will no doubt be calling on the expertise of the membership for advice as I move forward.
 
As tragic as the damage is I am hoping that this will be a good experience and that I  rise to the occasion with a smile as things become repaired.
 
here are a few pictures to show the extent of my task.
 
Builders Name plate

 
Port side sustained the most damage
 

 
Starboard side suffered mostly inertial damage
 

 
The funnels took a beating because they are heavy and brass
 

 
A lot of loose parts were piled on the deck in front of the bridge
 

 
The stern end of the port lifeboat deck is badly bent and twisted
 

 
The stairs didn't fair too well either
 

 
Below the port lifeboat deck is the most damage on the hull I am really hoping that this area can be reworked without having to repaint the entire side, we will see?
 

 
A box of the loose pieces now lifted off the ship
 

 
Ouch
 

 
This will keep me busy over the next couple of three months. As I was removing all the big loose parts I was noticing how much of the fine lines and wire cables have also been damaged. many of the parts were attached with micro brass pins, all the lifeboat davits for instance.
 
Michael
 
 

On a visit to the Royal Navy Museum, Portsmouth a month ago I went past HMS Victory on my way to the new Mary Rose museum. The inside of the gun port lids are now painted a rather startling orange color. Looks like the keepers of the ship would come down on the red ochre side of the debate.
 
Roger Pellett

A question: In making a stop cut where the direction of the cut is aligned with the grain, isn't there a danger that the downward pressure from the knife will split the wood? What type of stroke do you use to prevent this?
 
Roger Pellett

On a visit to the Royal Navy Museum, Portsmouth a month ago I went past HMS Victory on my way to the new Mary Rose museum. The inside of the gun port lids are now painted a rather startling orange color. Looks like the keepers of the ship would come down on the red ochre side of the debate.
 
Roger Pellett

On a visit to the Royal Navy Museum, Portsmouth a month ago I went past HMS Victory on my way to the new Mary Rose museum. The inside of the gun port lids are now painted a rather startling orange color. Looks like the keepers of the ship would come down on the red ochre side of the debate.
 
Roger Pellett

A question: In making a stop cut where the direction of the cut is aligned with the grain, isn't there a danger that the downward pressure from the knife will split the wood? What type of stroke do you use to prevent this?
 
Roger Pellett

It depends how your chuck is mounted. On many drill presses including the one that that I have, rhe Jacobs chuck is mounted on a morse tapered shaft. There is a threaded nut above the chuck that can be used to push the chuck off. This setup is not designed to accept side loads and loads from routing or milling can cause the chuck to wobble and in some cases to fall off- personal experience!
 
If your drill press works this way you will have to see if a collet chuck is available. This locks onto the shaft using the threads on a the shaft. A collet chuck will probably come with two inserts to fit 1/4in and 3/8in router bits and milling cutters.
 
Roger Pellett

I cannot comment on Micromark power tools because I have never used any. I am a fan of Sherline for a number of reasons
 
A huge number of well thought out accessories.
 
Very high quality, mine was made in the USA.
 
I think in inches. Millimeters require conversion, and Sherline's tools not only can be purchased calibrated in inches, but collets screw threads, etc. are in inches too.
 
Great customer service- Sherline uses socket headed set screws with a machined point to secure its heavier components. When setting up the milling column these are removed and reinstalled. A while ago I broke the socket on one of these, and could not find a replacement locally. I called Sherline and the lady on the phone said " Yes, those are hard to find, give me your address and I'll send you some." A few days later an envelope with several screws showed up gratis!
 
Roger Pellett

For drilling small holes if you have a Sherline mill or a milling column for their lathe (which is what I have) their sensitive drilling attachment is a "must have." For me, however, a full size drill press also gets a lot of use in my shop.
 
Roger Pellett

John,
 
Light and infrequent milling will work (except as pointed out by Roger).  However, the bearings will not handle the side loading very well for very long.  We've had builders use a drill press as a lathe and as a mill but there is the risk of killing a bearing.  By all means, check the bearings as you're using it for heat build up also.

It depends how your chuck is mounted. On many drill presses including the one that that I have, rhe Jacobs chuck is mounted on a morse tapered shaft. There is a threaded nut above the chuck that can be used to push the chuck off. This setup is not designed to accept side loads and loads from routing or milling can cause the chuck to wobble and in some cases to fall off- personal experience!
 
If your drill press works this way you will have to see if a collet chuck is available. This locks onto the shaft using the threads on a the shaft. A collet chuck will probably come with two inserts to fit 1/4in and 3/8in router bits and milling cutters.
 
Roger Pellett

No matter which Mill you buy, you get what you paid for. Why buy something twice when you can just buy it once and it will last a heck of a lot longer than a cheap one. And yes I also own Sherline.

It depends how your chuck is mounted. On many drill presses including the one that that I have, rhe Jacobs chuck is mounted on a morse tapered shaft. There is a threaded nut above the chuck that can be used to push the chuck off. This setup is not designed to accept side loads and loads from routing or milling can cause the chuck to wobble and in some cases to fall off- personal experience!
 
If your drill press works this way you will have to see if a collet chuck is available. This locks onto the shaft using the threads on a the shaft. A collet chuck will probably come with two inserts to fit 1/4in and 3/8in router bits and milling cutters.
 
Roger Pellett

It depends how your chuck is mounted. On many drill presses including the one that that I have, rhe Jacobs chuck is mounted on a morse tapered shaft. There is a threaded nut above the chuck that can be used to push the chuck off. This setup is not designed to accept side loads and loads from routing or milling can cause the chuck to wobble and in some cases to fall off- personal experience!
 
If your drill press works this way you will have to see if a collet chuck is available. This locks onto the shaft using the threads on a the shaft. A collet chuck will probably come with two inserts to fit 1/4in and 3/8in router bits and milling cutters.
 
Roger Pellett

I cannot comment on Micromark power tools because I have never used any. I am a fan of Sherline for a number of reasons
 
A huge number of well thought out accessories.
 
Very high quality, mine was made in the USA.
 
I think in inches. Millimeters require conversion, and Sherline's tools not only can be purchased calibrated in inches, but collets screw threads, etc. are in inches too.
 
Great customer service- Sherline uses socket headed set screws with a machined point to secure its heavier components. When setting up the milling column these are removed and reinstalled. A while ago I broke the socket on one of these, and could not find a replacement locally. I called Sherline and the lady on the phone said " Yes, those are hard to find, give me your address and I'll send you some." A few days later an envelope with several screws showed up gratis!
 
Roger Pellett

I cannot comment on Micromark power tools because I have never used any. I am a fan of Sherline for a number of reasons
 
A huge number of well thought out accessories.
 
Very high quality, mine was made in the USA.
 
I think in inches. Millimeters require conversion, and Sherline's tools not only can be purchased calibrated in inches, but collets screw threads, etc. are in inches too.
 
Great customer service- Sherline uses socket headed set screws with a machined point to secure its heavier components. When setting up the milling column these are removed and reinstalled. A while ago I broke the socket on one of these, and could not find a replacement locally. I called Sherline and the lady on the phone said " Yes, those are hard to find, give me your address and I'll send you some." A few days later an envelope with several screws showed up gratis!
 
Roger Pellett

For drilling small holes if you have a Sherline mill or a milling column for their lathe (which is what I have) their sensitive drilling attachment is a "must have." For me, however, a full size drill press also gets a lot of use in my shop.
 
Roger Pellett

For drilling small holes if you have a Sherline mill or a milling column for their lathe (which is what I have) their sensitive drilling attachment is a "must have." For me, however, a full size drill press also gets a lot of use in my shop.
 
Roger Pellett

Trippwj: I would be happy to shamelesly plug my book: "Blakeley and the Wasp: The Cruise of 1814." Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, MD, 2001. It is the biography of Captain Johnston Blakeley, USN, of Pittsboro, NC.
 
Molasses: although William James was definitely an Ameri-phobe, he is acccurate, mostly, with the technical facts. He was good friends with the Shannon's Captain Phillip Brooke after the war. When the War of 1812 Broke out, James was trapped in NY. He soon found himself in jail after shooting his mouth off (he was a lawyer, so what did you expect?) , where he was treated very bady. He escaped, and made it on foot to Canada. His attitude in "Naval Occurances" reflects his experiences!!! He softens his tone a little in his monumental six volume "Naval History of Great Britain".
 
Also, Captain Jones of Wasp (1) specifically deliniates the enemy's force as "sixteen 32-pound carronades, four long twelves and two twelve pound carronades". He obviously mistook the Frolick's chase guns' calibers, but it was dark, and he was very busy. He probably just assumed that the enemy's chase guns were the same size as his, medium 12-pounders; the two sloops being nearly identical, save for the rig. If he was deliberately exaggerating, then he might have increased the number of enemy carronades instead for a greater effect. Four extra guns, none appaently used, and mounted at the extremities, were a disadvantage in those rough seas!
 
HMS Epervier, captured by USS Peacock in 1814, had swapped her two six-pounders out in Halifax for a pair of 18-pounder 'gunnades' to increase her firepower. They may have been carronades with trunion mountings. She landed her 12-pounder carronade then too.
 
HMS Reindeer, which fought the second Wasp, was one of six cruisers built of fir, a less expensive wood, so she sported an old fashioned square-tuck stern. There are seperate plans at the NMM for these six. One square-tucker was built of teak in India, HMS Zebra, me thinks. Reindeer originally had 32-pounder carronades, but was caught up in a storm and had to throw half her battery over the side to right herself. When she returned to Plymouth (or was it Portsmouth?) there were no replacement guns of that caliber available, so she took on board a new battery of 24-pounder carronades. The RN regulations forbade the mixing carronade calibers on a single deck, so Captain Manners had to turn in his remaining 32-pounders. James wrongly states that they swapped the 32's out for lighter 24's because the Reindeer was a tired old sloop. (She was lauched in 1806, and so she was only eight years old when taken.)
 
Whew, I talk too much. Ask Hank.

I finished the planking to the rudder.  I needed every bit of spliling that I did on the last few planks to avoid planks breaking off before hitting the bottom of the keel.
 

 
I've fired up the glue pot and we'll see how far I get tonight.  Why is it I seem so busy yet I am supposed to be retired?

Well...now that the bath remodel is done I can spend some time on the GR.
 
So I finished up the fore deck house and the next one with the long boats mounted.   Here are some images..and one giving some reference with a penny for scale.
 
Rob

I have completed the cabin walls etc on the boiler deck. I am not sure that the bending method given for the curves is very good. The idea was to bend the wood that had been laser inscribed in a pre made jig. Despite enlarging the lines with a number 11 blade and being very, very careful it was almost impossible not to splinter the wood. I got away with it but only just ! It had been suggested that the rear of the wood could be backed with card before the bending but I feel this would have made the job even harder. The instructions say not to soak the wood but to be honest I think it is better to do it. There is more bending on the top cabins so I will risk and try it next time.
What a lot of upright battens !! Easy enough to cut but quite a chore to stick. I have also chosen to alter the painting a bit to make it 'my own' and left the door panels white. I think it looks OK.
 
 

Panama Port - silly me, I have built your boat already, I was thinking of someone else!
 
Anyway, Cathead you will be pleased to know that I agreed with you and all is now white !!
 
I have put on the boiler deck and all the uprights (Stationaries). I ignored the destructions and put the strip round the deck on first. I reckoned it would be easier as trying to bend it on boat would have been a nightmare. It also meant that I could slot the uprights in rather than put the strip over the top of them. I have also put the strips on the deck ready for the next lot of cabins. I can't decide at the moment whether to put all the bullrails on the lower deck next or leave them until later.