G.L.

I redid the columns, I did not like and added small friezes:
 

Dear all
 
Time for another update I think.
 
The boat is almost done!
 
So, I finished all the oars, they came out fine I think with no failures. But then, I had to figure out what finish to use. Now, they are made of maple which is very white and apparently notoriously difficult to stain. I tried painting the oars white, (using the previous short oars I had made), staining and just Tang oil. I did not like the white colour, staining went really badly no matter what I tried so it had to be Tung oil. Photo bellow.

So all oars are now ready

Next, I painted the rudder and I made the tiller. Now, the tiller has a bit of story behind it. About 3 years ago, I salvaged a small piece of wood from an apricot tree in my parents summer house, now gone. I wanted to use a bit of that wood in this boat so made the tiller out of it. Very nice wood, really hard.


Then I made the hinges, secured to both the rudder and boat with CA glue and small nails, cut from brass pins, dipped again in CA glue.



 
Now, next project was the oar locks. I ve no idea what would be used back then but I decided to use double thole pins. So I made the sacrificial base and rounded off some square pear strips.


So I think really close to finishing. Of course, the whole point is the davit - this is the reason the boat was built! I need to make the sockets and finish the davit.


I also need to make a few cleats. I also have some thin soft leather, maybe it would be nice to add a strip to the oars.
 
My very best wishes to all
Vaddoc
 

Installation and soldering of sheets to bulwarks and bulkheads.

Thanks to everyone who expressed their thoughts about the Kingston box! Now I have plenty to choose from for my grille installation option.

  I continue to work on the Blagoev hull. I'm starting to lay down the deck sheets.

Just a little bit of work today to start chapter 4.
 
I actually did forget to add something for chapter 3 so I just made it the first thing in this new chapter.  That was the anchor lining.  Its pretty straight forward.  Each strake of the anchor lining is laser cut although it may not line up perfectly with everyone's planking on individual models.  You guys may make some planks narrower or taper them less up there.  But its better to have them I suppose and if folks have to they can easily make them from scratch.
 

Then starts the stern details...
 
First up was to scratch some molding for the lowest one just above the square tuck.   You guys have done this before.   1/8" x 1/32" strip of boxwood scraped.
 
Then the frieze was cut out and glued on.   The darker one of course to match the friezes on the side of the hull.
 

Then the upper molding above the frieze was added.  It was done in two layer.  The first is laser cut for you on a curve to match the curve of the transom.  There are registration marks to help center it etched onto the FORWARD side of the molding.  This is the side that gets glued to the transom.   The AFT side of this strip need to be sanded with an angle along its entire length.   This helps establish the correct angles of the second layer which we will add later.  The laser cut piece on the bottom is a non sanded example just to show the laser etched lines that help you center it.   The ends will hang over on both sides of the hull quite a bit.  That is by design.   But you can see the other example on top which has been sanded along its entire length on an angle,  basically making it triangular in profile or wedge shaped.   This can be glued on the model once completed.
 

 
Thats when you can scrape another length of 1/8" x 1/16" boxwood strip which can be glued on top of it.   Its just a cheat to help establish the correct angles of this complex piece of molding.
 
Then the sides are completed and trimmed which is a boring long process I wont bother posting here...bit in the end you get this below.   You can see how it extends beyond the side to create a little platform.  This is for the standing figure.   
 

 
Its not time to glue these figures on permanently yet....but I did want to do a test to check its size and fit and placement.  I removed them right after.  Note how the figures follow the angle of the transom when viewed from the side of the hull.  The figure was designed to look like it was stepping forward and leaning.  This is important for  the look of the model.   They face almost outward from the side so the front of the torso almost faces port and starboard.   Although there is a slight turn aft as well.   One foot also slightly hangs over the molding which is correct but maybe not this much once I actually glue them on permanently.
 




 
Thats it for now but a little painting is next up so I can continue work on the stern.  There are the typical columns and such as well as the carvings above the windows.
 
Chuck
 
 

Photo of the general view of the model hull as of today. I have work ahead of me on deck.

Treenails... 
There have been many discussions here on the forum; Treenails, yes or no. 
For me: yes. It's a lot of work, but for me it adds value.
The idea is to add the treenails and then paint the hull with diluted Tamiya paints. This worked last time with toothpicks and ramin wood, but the cherry wood does not provide enough contrast. That is why I purchased walnut strips with a diameter of 1 mm, these provide sufficient contrast with the cherry wood to be able to paint over later.
 
There is not much information for the Mary Rose, only the diameter of the treenails. The frames also do not have an ordered structure to create a treenail diagram.
Therefore, back to the method on my previous model. This creates a schedule that has some structure. This will not match the real ship at all. but it looks good (to me).
 
The Mary Rose info, 
Further in the book it says :  We will investigate this further later...
My treenails are indeed 0.2mm too thick. But I couldn't find smaller strips in walnut and 1 mm drills are cheap here

The frame diagram 

Plan B


The strips : ordered on monday, delivered on teusday.

There should be approximately 5500 to 6000 holes between the keel and the first wale. This work requires new tools 

Drilling
Adding the treenails (and my very first hammer, still in service)

Work in progress

Nils!
  The deck on the model is currently made of plywood and is covered with a protective layer of varnish on top. But everything will change soon...   

Wooden slats were removed from the inside of the bulwarks and a deck was installed.

Hello all, just a quick update.
Yes, there is still progress. Slow and steady 😉

As a result, the rear part of the model looks like this

It looks more interesting from the nasal angles.  

With the hull painting completed I was able to return to a bit of construction work. I had previously attached the propellor to a thin dowel and so this was now glued into the hull. I was also able to attach the rudder - the short nub at the top of the rudder was glued into the hole in the hull and a thin brass pin was fitted through the bottom of the rudder and into the hull. A dab of the green paint covered up the end of the brass pin.


Now it was time to move back to the deck. The instructions call for thin pieces of walnut to be added to the inside of the main hatch and the fore hatch to form ledges onto which the hatch covers can be mounted. The walnut strip is fixed in place so that the top of the strips sits 2mm above the deck. For some reason the middle hatch doesn't need these supports, at least as far as the instructions indicate. It may be because the cover for this hatch is the butterfly hatch and perhaps the walnut may show through more easily through the brass bars? It isn't clear if that is the reason but I stuck with the instructions and did as I was told.
 
I then soaked the two pieces of the cockpit coaming in warm water for a short while so that they could be bent into a slight curve and mounted them to the deck via the three slots previously made there. The main hatch was also placed on the deck and weights and clamps were used to keep the whole structure together whilst the coamings dried and took on the shape needed.


After the coamings had dried the whole structure was removed from the deck and the coaming pieces were given a coat of wipe on poly. After this had dried the whole structure was then glued in place and weights and clamps reattached to hold it in place whilst the glue set. The middle hatch was also glued into position. At this stage the fore hatch is only sitting in place on the walnut ledges as I still have to fit the metal skylight ring to it before the final fitting can be undertaken.


I also have started considering the construction of the masts and yards. The kit provides various sized walnut dowels for these but in my case the 6mm walnut dowel that is required for the mainmast was rather bent. Luckily I have some 6mm Tasmanian Oak dowel which I thought I might use instead - and this is straight! I cut some lengths for the mainmast, topmast and boom from this. I will need to taper and resize these on the lathe in due course. The other yards and masts need a 4mm dowel and I'll see if I can find another oak dowel to use for these. 

The name is now complete.

And planking is done on both sides. Further planking at the stern is for later.
Now this part of the hull will first be further detailed (treenails, etc.)

2 plywood bulkheads remain present, so the model can easily remain upside down for further finishing.
The strange piece of wood on the bow is just a temporary reinforcement so that the top part of the stem doesn't break off

Thanks for following, comments and likes

some progress:
 





I found these letters, but honestly, they don't excite me too much..... I will try to make them in boxwood.
What do you  think about?

I am not sure yet.  I may actually just skip the POB all together and if I only sell a handful of Speedwell POF kits then so be it.  And then move onto the smaller subjects I started.  It is what it is.
 
I am still mulling it over.  Its a big decision.  But so far there are about 9 pof kits reserved.  I will just keep a couple on the shelf after making those first 9 and see where it goes.
 
I decided not to put a number on how many POF kits I will eventually make.  I will just keep one or two on the shelf and if they ever sell thats fine.  If they do sell I will just make one or two more.
 
Some other smaller prototypes in progress below.  Hudson River Sloop and Block Island Fishing Boat.
 
chuck
 

 

Hi All
 
Time is not a friend of mine at the moment but I have been watching others build projects (enviously 😆).  I have got some done hence the update and thanks to everyone that took the time to give advice and the very lovely comments.
 
The first thing was to fit two more plank strakes on the bulwarks and then pierce the holes for the scuppers and hawse holes.  Nothing really tricky about this you just have to be careful cutting the holes so that you don't tear the wood too much.





Next was to make and fit the deck clamps for the smaller aft and forward decks.  Learning from my previous attempt at placing clamps I really took my time marking these out with a digital height gauge.  I think this took me about 4 hours to get right until I was absolutely happy with their placing.  I also used a technique that @Tobias uses with tiny spirit levels athwartship.  These things are so cheap and yet they allowed me to checked my levels even further.  I used quite a lot of clamps to make sure that my efforts stayed where they were.  Cheers Tobias  


 
Next was to plank the gap between the already fitted planking and the clamp.  All I would say about this is if you measure and plan it accurately it's a fairly straightforward job.  I can imagine it being a nightmare if you don't.  The clamps are slightly thicker than the planks and just need tapering into the planks below. I've put a photo below to show what I mean.






Note to self - use a lower resolution camera as these photo's show everything
 
Ok so as always - what did I do wrong?  Well I cut the planking too short  - Its not a problem but I forgot to allow for the scroll to the gunwale.
 
This is how I cut it.

And this is what I missed

Its not a problem as I will fix this later on when I plank the outside but for fellow builders this could save you from doing the same.
 
I'll get some more done as and when I can - I think I need to be retired so that I can enjoy my hobby more!!
 
Cheers all - Mark
 
 
 
 

The wale 3 problem has been solved. This now has a more flowing line towards the bow.
The front cannon port has also been modified. Like ports 2 through 6, is the opening now to just below the wale.

The letters of the name are also coming together well.

Starting with an easy one

And then the difficult one

Mary (without Rose )

The ships stand is ready, currently with a temporary name on it.

the planking above wale 3 went quite smoothly.

But,
The frame of section 1 is strongly bent inwards at the top. And the stem is straight at the top.

This result is an unnatural shape of the hull
So, removing these planks and start again for attempt 2. The advantage of PVA glue is that it softens again if you carefully apply isopropyl alcohol to the glue seams.
The planks can then be removed fairly easily.

Surgery...

Attempt 2 : better

But...
I think I tapered the planks between wale 2 and 3 too much.
Wale 3 currently has no smooth line. I'm considering attempt 3 (this means more redoing)   

Hi guys, and thanks for your likes (if thats a word now) 😬. 
i continued work on the boat racks, fitting them out and giving them a coat of primer. Before fixing them in place i needed to understand where the various steel ropes go (attachment points) as those need to be made and mounted first. For this i needed to make davits. The ones in the photo are raw prototypes for shape only. Originals are H-profiles 320x320mm. 
also made the first two fairleads (? Correct translation). Those were not flat on deck, but on a u-shaped profile.
enough text 😎
cheers sascha
 

Hello to all, thanks for likes and comments along the way. 🙂 
Planking along here. Just thought that I would show my take on the spiling business. It is not unique, in fact, it is what Chuck shows in one of his planking tutorials.
It goes like this...
1. Use quite broad, frosted tape and run a pencil along the edge of the previous plank.

2. Since the sides should be more or less identical, I work the planks in pair. Put the tape on the plank and also take a short strip around the ends to keep them together.

3. Over to the gigantic band-saw and cut along the scribbled line.

4. Since it is a bit wavy, sanding is needed to smooth the curve out. Here you can see my contraption for holding planks and other narrow stuff while planing or sanding.

5. Over to the band-saw again and cut the planks down to width, or more likely, a bit over sized, but closer to spec at least. With a short support on the band-saw fence equal width is easy to maintain over curved stock.

6. After that, more sanding and now down to specification. It is a bit of a struggle since the planks spring down under pressure, so care must be taken to have support and not to sand away too much.

7. And finally, after a steam bath, glued and clamped in place. Holes drilled for treenails. It doesn't really show on the picture but extensive care is taken to have the plank sit firmly in the rabbet and also beveled to sit tight against the previous strake. 11 strakes done, 12 to go... yay, almost at half way!

Now it's time for some WC Rugby. All Blacks against Ireland in quarter final 2. It will be a humdinger of a match (we hope :-D) 
And yes, It's All Blacks all the way, of course!
 
Cheers!
 

Back to the workbench. Fabricated the sponsons for the paddlewheel out of mahogany, since they will be the support of the paddlewheel axel, and trimmed the sub-deck around them.


Sections of the deck will be planked but, the bases for the engines, pumps, boiler and the coamings for the hold hatch, will have to be placed prior to planking. I feel that equipment doesn't look good directly over the wood planks. Thus, I am going to install these items prior to planking.
 
It is amazing to me the amount of ahead planning we must do in these scratch built. So my plan is to basically get all the deck equipment in place before proceeding with superstructures. 
Started by making a wood mockup the engine. 

NOTE: the large 1/12 scale drawings was reduced to 1/48 scale. Dimensions shown of the drawings correspond to the larger drawing.


I also fabricated the sump for the condensate tank between the engines. After installation of all the coamings and raised bases, I will start the fabrication of the mechanicals in metal, except for the boiler's main body which will be a made from plastic pipe. 

The most reliable source of information is photographs!   
These photographs show Cyclone-class destroyers.

start of work on the stern panel

I continued with work on the Pen Duick by cutting out the six slots in the rear of the deck into which the cockpit coming sits. I had roughly marked these out when i planked the deck but now that I had constructed the main companionway hatch I was able to see exactly where the coaming would sit. Some care fun work with the mini chisels, the #11 blade and some fine sanding sticks enabled me to cut out all six slots.

Then it was time for more painting! The next job was to mark off the area for the green coat to the lower part of the hull. Again I used a combination to Tamiya tape and 'tape for curves' to mark out the edge between the white and green sections. I also used the laser level along the sides of the hull but this didn't work as well on the stern section due the angle of the hull there and so I had to eyeball the curve around the stern and hope that I got it right. After a bit of backwards and forwards with the tape I eventually found what I thought was the right curve. I used Vallejo Model Air 71.331 Faded Cockpit Emerald Green for the lower hull - I believe this is the same colour as used by @BobG on his build. I applied with paint with my airbrush and was pleased to see this went on pretty smoothly as far as I can tell. I am a real newbie as far as airbrushing goes and am still learning my way but I was fairly pleased with how it went.

There are of course a few areas that need touching up before I can add the varnish coat but that is only to be expected. There is a tiny tiny green mark in the white section on one side of the prow but hopefully I can clean that up. I did note that the making tape I used when I applied the black paint has left a little impression mark in the white band and I'm not quite sure what that happened as I left the white hull for several days before I moved onto the black. I am pondering giving the white section another coat of paint but I'm not sure how well I will be able to mask off the green and black sections and so I could end up making things worse. Maybe I can give the white section a very light sand to clean up the marks instead? There are also a few nicks in the black paint at the top of the bulwarks but that should be an easy fix (hopefully).