G.L.

The tiller was made in two options , I decided to go with the one made of pear.

Greetings my dear Colleagues, I would like to show some works on tge steering wheel .
I made the hinges of the helm and sternpost hinges according to the generally accepted technology.
 

The chain pumps:

I have made fish davits.

I make spherical parts from brass using a punzel and a lead plate.

Details are installed on the hull of the destroyer.

Log #38: Painting Complete
I have finally finished with all the painting. The frieze was a challenge at only around 3.5mm of space, there was not much room to add in detail. As I have progressed I have gotten a better handle on the style, but I could definitely do a better job if I was to start over.
 
Below you can see how what I accomplished compares to the alert painting. I think I largely captured the feel, though as I have discussed in previous logs I did make some changes based upon what I felt would better capture Neptune and Salacia.


Though not strictly realistic (a ship this insignificant would likely not have had this much decoration), I do like the look. In a sense I am trying to capture the essence of the ship as envisaged by the designer even if the ship itself likely didn’t look like this.

Overall I am glad I went down this road. I have learned a lot about painting and I feel the model is finally starting to come to life.

Thank you....Today I glued the qbadges on permanently.  It needed to be done now so I can add the fancy molding on the hull and then the friezes etc.   I working my way up to the sheer and cap rail.   For the qbadge,  some acetate was placed in the window opening first from the outboard side.  Then the window itself which is laser cut on plastic as you have seen earlier.   Lastly I added the qbadge so the roof molding on the badge lined up with the 3/32" wide planking strip.  This will line up the badge properly with the molding I am going to add.  This also shows the port side which I have been working on today.
 

 
With the badge in position I added the 3/32" x 1/32" molding.  I scraped the profile into these boxwood strips in the usual way.  I created a scraper by filing the profile into an old razor blade.
 

 

I will repeat this on the other side and then add the friezes to the side of the hull next.   
 
 

Some of you guys may have noticed the announcement on my website about the ropewalk availability.  Its been a while.   Long story short,  yet another supplier who discontinued making all the gears and all of the hubs and hardware I used to make the ropewalks.  No warning...they just discontinued them.
 
But fear not....I have sourced new gears and hubs and hardware.  Of course they are a different pitch diameter and with a different hole configuration etc.  Basically I had to redesign the entire ropewalk.  It is essentially the same machine as the size of all the parts just changed.   But new drawings and files were needed.
 
I did make the Rope Rocket a bit taller in this new version 2.0.   I also added some bearings.  This makes for a quieter machine and imagine it will also extend its life.  Although nobody makes as much rope as I do on these things.  In fact I am still using my 8 year old version 1.0 machine and its still kicking after hundreds of miles of rope.
 
I am putting the new version 2.0 Rope Rocket through its paces right now.  Its all going rather well.  Like I said its the same basic machine.  The gears are about 2mm larger in diameter this time.  Here is a pic of a freshly made machine.  I must write new instructions.
 

You can still swap to a 4 strand rope as well just like the original.  These two pics show the bearings in position which makes for a smoother ride.
 


 
So if you were waiting for the new V2 Rope Rocket,  it wont be long now.  I just have to write the new assembly instructions and make a bunch of them.
 
Same great taste!!!  You really wouldnt notice any change if you dont have both versions.   Makes pretty fantastic looking rope....same operating instructions.  slightly different assembly instructions.
 
The downside....its $8 more expensive than the original version 1.0....Of course it is, LOL  
That just couldn't be avoided in this day and age.  Supply chains is a real tough nut these days.
 
And yes I kept the fun imagery of the Rocket on the back side of this version.    I didnt bother adding a finish to this v 2.0 test but its the same beautiful solid cherry.  Maybe I will give it a coat of wipe on poly....but mine will get bloody filthy in a few weeks anyways.  So it doesnt matter.
 

 
 
 
 
 

After finishing the treenails...finally, I continued to plank up to the sheer.  This meant one more 1/4" wide strake to cut around all those ports.  It wasnt too bad to do.  Then another stake of 1/8" wide planking which is the first layer for a fancy molding strip.  We will add that soon.  The top of this 1/8" strake and molding is the sheer.  The top of this along the waist should NOT be altered or sanded down.  You want to maintain that ice continuous and graceful flow for that molding strip and sheer.  If for whatever reason your planking in the waist ends up slightly higher or lower that is OK.  This is tough to plan out exactly.  The top edge for me along the waste was about 1/64" higher than the sheer I sanded into the framing and fairing cap.  Thats is perfectly fine and it is best not to sand the strake down to match.  Best to keep a nice flow and even width to what will become a molding piece.  Hope that makes sense.
 

Then I planked along the drifts fore and aft to complete the external planking on the starboard side.  I will repeat this on the port side next.  The Qbadge and window for it are just lightly tacked in place for the photo.  That wont be glued permanently yet.  
 

 
Note where you would see the scrolls along the waist.  On Speedwell they are different than on a frigate like the Winnie.  Therefore a different approach is needed with them.  So you will notice how the planking drifts along the waist are stepped.  This shape will allow for the addition of the scrollwork later where it will make perfect sense.
 

Once I complete this on the other side I will begin adding the second layer of the wales painted black and the fashion pieces.  Then the fancy molding will be added outboard. 
 
All of the planking should be relatively easy.  Aside from the detailed expansion templates (below), I also created an expansion of every single planking strake above the wales individually.   They have the tapers needed on each of them.  This can be used to literally cut the exact shape of every strake from a 3/64" thick sheet of Yellow Cedar if you chose to.  Even the drifts are included.  You will still have to cut them around each gunport and break them into individual lengths depending on where your planking step pattern is.  You can use the plans to find those.  There was no need to create an expansion drawing for the 3/32" and 1/8" wide strakes that represent the fancy molding.  I just ripped those on my table saw as they are not tapered and easy to plank with being so narrow.
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 

The planking of the lower hull part is ready. This morning everything is made ready for sanding and scraping.
In the meantime I did the garden, washed the cars and did other small jobs (the regular Saturday work..)

result.

am quite happy with this special plank at the stern.

Now there is first a "quality check". Then the sanding is continued and the keel will be tapered.

Thanks for comments, likes or just visiting this build, this is very much appreciated.

I would like to present some developments on the latrine, there are some points that are not the way they should be, but i ran out of inspiration to redo it.

Continued from previous post...
 
The Loading Dock
 

 

 

 
The Main Dock
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
That completes the series of "glam" shots and brings this project to a close. I'd like to thank all of you who have followed along and offered support, encouragement and advice along the way. This has been a most enjoyable diversion into this style of modelling and I've learned a lot along the way. i do have another of these kits in my stash (Foss's Landing), but I've got a ship or two to build first.
 
Stay tuned for the next exciting adventure!
 

Continued from previous post...
 
The Saw Shed
 

 

 

 

 
The Sales Office
 

 

 

 

 
Continued next post...
 

Continued from previous post...
 
Some of the individual "scenes".
 
The Ship Under Construction
 

 
The Yard Master (studying the plans)
 

 
The Steam Box
 

 

 
The Upper Yard Shed
 

 
The Derrick Dock
 

 

 

 
Continued next post...
 

Thanks very much Keith, Glen, OC, Jack, Yves, Mark and Ken, and also to all of the 'likes'.
 
I didn't quite get around to posting the final "glam" shots yesterday, so here they are. There are quite a few, so I'll split across several posts, starting with the overall "spin" shots.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Continued next post...
 

fixed the aft bulkhead:

Aft bulkhead construction:

I realised that I had wrongly coloured the sides, making the black end too high. !



 

Detailing the Diorama Scenes (continued)
A picture heavy update, so I'll spread this across two posts.
 
With the “ground work” complete, it was time to start placing the remainder of the castings around the main building and docks. In doing so, I’ve used the pictures in the instruction manual as a general guide to placement, without copying it exactly. We start with the area outside the Sales Office. Once the castings were in place, the Sales Office Porch was added. This was built in the usual way over a provided template. A two-step set of stairs was also added. In the picture below, I have also added the old truck in its final place.
 

 
The stairway to the upper storey was then build and added. A set of three laser-cut stringers are provided in the kit, along with a cutting guide for the stair treads. I got so engrossed in what I was doing that I forgot to take any “in-progress” pics of this process but it was a straight forward one.
 

 
Prior to placing the stairs, the area underneath the stairs was detailed with the workbench and other items various. The workbench was a one-piece casting painted earlier, but legs and bracing were needed prior to final placement. I’ve also added a few scraps of timber under the bench.
 

 
The left Loading Dock was next. Again, the shelving unit was a one-piece casting painted earlier. All other items are individual castings.
 

 
Next we move onto the area outside the Yard Master’s Office. I obtained a set of HO Scale figures from Woodland Scenics and have used some of these to add some more life to the diorama. The set of figures I bought was a Carpenter’s Crew. Here I have modified one (by cutting the saw off of his hand) to represent the Yard Master examining the ship’s plans.
 

 
Then it’s on to the end of the Main Dock. Looks like a lot of inventory has been delivered recently.
 

 
And from another angle.
 

 
The rear of the Yard Master’s Office also houses a range of parts and clutter.
 

 
The right Loading Dock also gets its share of paraphernalia.
 

 
The fence line is now added, complete with “rising damp” as suggested by a SWSM forum guru.
 

 
Continued next post...
 

The lip is now cut and rounded on the edges
 
I will be raising the top when I get it back in the boat.
 
Michael

Just a quick test of the frames in position.  This is all just dry fit.  Everything looks great so far.
 
I am headed away tomorrow morning on a short road trip so no shop time.   But when I get back work will resume on the SOPHIA ROSE and SPEEDWELL.  These boats were meant to be beached as a fun fact when room at the wharf was not plentiful.  Anywhere from 2 to 5 fisherman were on these small boats.
 
Chuck
 



 

I started the construction of the quarterdeck beams:





 

Thanks very much OC, Ken and Mark, and also to all of the "likes".
Detailing the Diorama Scenes (continued)
 A couple of “housekeeping” items to begin with. Firstly, I built an extra ladder and hung it on the side of the Saw Shed using a couple of “S” hooks I made from brass wire.
 

 
Then the Bumper was added to the end of the rail tracks. This is made from some scrap dowel.
 

 
Two lamps/lamp posts are required. I found what I believe to be one lamp among the metal castings, but only one. It also requires a piece of brass wire attaching to it to form the lamp post lamp. Faced with the dual problem of being short one lamp and securely fixing wire to a white metal casting, I opted to make a pair of new lamps by turning them from brass rod on my lathe.
 
In the picture below you can see my new lamps on the left, with the blackened original casting on the right.
 

 
While I was turning these, I also bored out the back end to accept a 1.6 mm (1/16”) diameter brass wire. I then silver soldered the wire to the lamps. Here they are cleaned up and ready for blackening.
 

 
The lamp posts were made from 7/32” (~5.5mm) diameter dowel. The blackened and buffed lamps were epoxied into holes drilled in the dowel and are shown below temporarily in place in the diorama. (The Telegraph pole can also be seen in the background).
 

 
In the photograph, the poles look a little over-thick, although in the flesh they seem okay. I don’t know whether this is just a trick of the camera lens, or whether I need to redo the lamp posts.
 
With these tasks complete, I was able to proceed to detailing the Derrick Dock. Here are a series of photographs of the detail in this scene.
 
The end of the dock, with the shed and the Derrick both in place. The Derrick has since been removed for safe keeping until the diorama is complete.
 

 
An overview from the pit side of the dock (minus Derrick)
 

 
Looking down at the inboard end of the shed.
 

 
A closer look at the inner end of the dock.
 

 
And another view of the shed area.
 

 
I’ve also done a little more work on the entrance road, adding some hint of vegetation growing between the wheel tracks. It looks like someone has just arrived to check on progress….
 

 
The final task for the day was to glue the main building in place. Detailing the various scenes around the main building will commence tomorrow.

Hello everyone I’m just getting my mojo back in the ship modeling world. I had a heart attack in November 2022 and am now recovered from that. I had a wonderful conversation with David Anscherl earlier this week and he challenged me to do something on the cutter within the next 2 weeks. Yesterday I dug in and am happy to say that I am enjoying the work I am going to continue with the galley area which also includes the chart table on the starboard side 
 

 

 
The first task was trying to remember just what I was doing, then deciding what was the next step. The galley counter needed to be drilled for the tap and then the sink needed some serious work to clean up the sloppy silver soldering. So a few custom sanding sticks are being used to tidy up the sink. 
Time for some lunch 
Michael