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hdrinker

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  1. I didn’t actually measure my bow sprit angle other than following the process described by David in the book. I had to shorten the neck on my Pegasus to accommodate the bow sprit. The real problem for me was accommodating the bob stays which have to pass between his legs and is very dependent on the location of the bob stay attachments. I had to extend the bobstay piece accordingly. Not sure how I could have avoided that. Henry
  2. What is the cumulative error that you refer to. I’m assuming you’re speaking about the bow sprit angle? Henry
  3. She’s looking really great Kevin. You’re showing me what it should look like. I’m loving reliving the various steps. Henry
  4. Euphroes and crows feet were a challenge. I followed Dave’s advice and used 6/0 thread from my fly tying bench. #26 drill with the milling machine. If the holes in the euphroe are too close together, the thread saws its way through from one hole to the next. Leave a distances about equal to a hole diameter between holes. The thread I tie flies with in brown is not mono thread, and it readily comes apart into many tiny filaments unless it’s treated with dilute PVA. After many painful hours of trying to thread that 6/0 thread through the holes in the euphroes, I got a sewing needle from my wife and a needle threader and that made a big difference, especially when trying to reverse thread the holes in the tops. I also learned the hard way to keep tension on the crows feet during threading. Otherwise the euphroe has a habit of rotating, which gets quite confusing as one progresses causing the lines to thread the wrong way at times and losing parallel alignment. I spent about 15 hours over 3 days doing this and must have started over on each mast several times.
  5. Ratlines, Futtuck Staves, Catharpins installed. Ready to start on tops.Ed
  6. While the lighting remains intact, the effect is underwhelming without more views of the lower deck I’m afraid. Lots of effort with little return.
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