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hdrinker
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Pegasus by hdrinker - 1:48 - POF - Swan practicum
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Rigging progressing slowly.
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I like your practice of pinning the gun carriages to the deck. I’ve just used glue under the wheels, but no matter what type of glue I use, they seems to come lose all too often, which creates a super headache particularly under a planked deck! I also pin the trunion caps, with glued pins, but have had the same issue. Henry
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Now on to the rest.
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That completes the standing rigging for this build. I can identify with Blue Ensign’s comment about the effect of rigging on the back and neck. With Spring now upon us in southeastern Massachusetts, I think I’ll take a break and prepare for the eminent Striped Bass arrival. We live on property that extends to the banks of a tidal river on the coast where the Spring migration of Stripers offers excellent fly fishing opportunities from shore, a good diversion from endless hours in the basement. Henry
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Deadeye plates utilized as advised. Difficult to achieve good parallel alignment however with the surrounding deadeyes due to special confinements in my build.
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Great! Will do. Thx.
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Somewhere in the pages of David’s book he likely addressed this issue in order for those like me to avoid just this goof and is now saying “I told you so”. 🤦♂️
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Significant error discovered. I should have added a fifth deadeye to the mizzen channels to accommodate the mizzen topmast backstays. But didn’t recognize that the 3-D computer images omit a mizzen top gallant. Instead, I used the deadeye aft of the quarter badge for the topmast backstays, leaving no deadeyes for the top gallant back stays in my version of Pegasus. We’ll, it seems that my choices now would be to 1): redo the entire mizzen and its channels , or 2): redo the stool aft of the quarter badge to accommodate an additional deadeye. I’m leaning for the latter, but would be welcome to hear from the group.
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I followed David’s recommendations for the fore top spritsail netting. Here’s the jig, which seems essential, and the results.
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Topmast standing rigging complete.
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I didn’t actually measure my bow sprit angle other than following the process described by David in the book. I had to shorten the neck on my Pegasus to accommodate the bow sprit. The real problem for me was accommodating the bob stays which have to pass between his legs and is very dependent on the location of the bob stay attachments. I had to extend the bobstay piece accordingly. Not sure how I could have avoided that. Henry
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What is the cumulative error that you refer to. I’m assuming you’re speaking about the bow sprit angle? Henry
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She’s looking really great Kevin. You’re showing me what it should look like. I’m loving reliving the various steps. Henry
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Euphroes and crows feet were a challenge. I followed Dave’s advice and used 6/0 thread from my fly tying bench. #26 drill with the milling machine. If the holes in the euphroe are too close together, the thread saws its way through from one hole to the next. Leave a distances about equal to a hole diameter between holes. The thread I tie flies with in brown is not mono thread, and it readily comes apart into many tiny filaments unless it’s treated with dilute PVA. After many painful hours of trying to thread that 6/0 thread through the holes in the euphroes, I got a sewing needle from my wife and a needle threader and that made a big difference, especially when trying to reverse thread the holes in the tops. I also learned the hard way to keep tension on the crows feet during threading. Otherwise the euphroe has a habit of rotating, which gets quite confusing as one progresses causing the lines to thread the wrong way at times and losing parallel alignment. I spent about 15 hours over 3 days doing this and must have started over on each mast several times.
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