Jolley Roger

Hi Nick,
 
Good to hear you are starting your Confederacy and thanks for the kind words....I'll certainly watch for your log.
 
Hi Nils,
 
Thank you for stopping by and for your good wishes for my build...I will certainly need them as  this will be a very long build! I also hope you are now feeling a lot better! 
 
Well, things have been a bit slow in the shipyard recently given work and also all the lovely spring weather. I have made a little progress, along with starting to go up the learning curve on how get a smooth finish using basswood.  For this I need to thank Dave Stevens for his interesting article in the Spring MSB Journal. Link below.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13061-spring-2016-issue-of-the-msb-journal/
 
Once I got the all the door openings opened up, I decided to go ahead and make some door frames as the instructions suggested.  I figured it would be a nice detail to add a profile into the frames so I used one of the brass profile tools included in the kit. Took more than a few tries to find the correct direction to create the profile by repeatedly using the tool at a shallow angle and light pressure. Eventually I managed to get a reasonable profile in a 1/16th in square strip. I then carefully cut some 45 deg miters so the profiles matched to create the top and side frames. I then glued them to the door frame so they overlapped the edges to hide the join between the planking and the door opening.  Last picture shows the test fit in place.
 
Pictures below and thank you to all for the "likes".  Always appreciated.
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 
 

 

 

Suggestion ral 2002 and 5012 would be close, i guess.
Don't be temted touse the orange for the upper band, that woulb be incorrect...

Of course Nigel, it will be no problem
 
To the Don's question-below is picture with the front side and back side after different time of sublimation in thermal press. It seems to be very similar color to the front side after the 8minutes. There is only one little problem, with increasing of time the small details (like skripts on these flags) are little more smudged. 
On the second picture is shown the flag after cutting from the sheet.
Best regards
Daniel

That's very cool Daniel!
 
I like all of them, but if I had to choose I would go with B, assuming a Statenjacht would have been well maintained being close to home.
 
For ships doing long distance cruising far from home, I would go for C.

That's very cool Daniel!
 
I like all of them, but if I had to choose I would go with B, assuming a Statenjacht would have been well maintained being close to home.
 
For ships doing long distance cruising far from home, I would go for C.

That's very cool Daniel!
 
I like all of them, but if I had to choose I would go with B, assuming a Statenjacht would have been well maintained being close to home.
 
For ships doing long distance cruising far from home, I would go for C.

Hi All,
 
Not a real update, but figured I'd post this early in case this helps someone out. I know Udo is currently working on his beakhead planking.
 
In doing a test fit of the beakhead doors, I found they did not fit as they were too high for the openings in the bulkhead.   Checking the plans, I found the doors matched the drawing of the completed beakhead on sheet 4, but were indeed higher than the door openings for the beakhead bulkhead G as detailed on sheet 3. An early test fit of a door should show if your kit has the same issue.
 
I've now increased the height for two of the four doors as you can see in the picture below of a test fit. I've also put a door next to the unchanged openings as a reference using a deck plank to set the height.  Pretty glad I found this now as normally the doors are added after finish out of much of the interior bow decking, furniture and painting.
 
Hope this is useful.
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 
 

Hi Keith,
 
Interesting build, wish I had the skills and tools to build a ship from scratch.
 
For interest sake, the correct spelling in Afrikaans would be 'Weerligstraal', we also make use of word 'Bliksem straal' as Piet mentioned above.

Well, the painting is finally finished! 
Definitely not my favorite part of the build, but I wanted it to look as good as possible, so I spent a lot of time on it. 
 

 
I also decided to change the bulkhead from mahogany to cherry wood. I made the little window with lead wire and Microscale Kristal Klear
 


 
...and last, but not least, I am attempting my hand at treenailing the deck. I still need some fine tuning on the technique, but it looks alright for a first attempt. (i still need to finish the set on the right, just need to pull more bamboo through the drawplate!)
 

Man, this masking business is hard work!
 

 
But the results is very satisfactory, a bit of a touch up here and there, but i'm happy with it.
 

 
 

Hi Keith,
 
Interesting build, wish I had the skills and tools to build a ship from scratch.
 
For interest sake, the correct spelling in Afrikaans would be 'Weerligstraal', we also make use of word 'Bliksem straal' as Piet mentioned above.

Hi Keith,
 
Interesting build, wish I had the skills and tools to build a ship from scratch.
 
For interest sake, the correct spelling in Afrikaans would be 'Weerligstraal', we also make use of word 'Bliksem straal' as Piet mentioned above.

Hi Keith,
 
Interesting build, wish I had the skills and tools to build a ship from scratch.
 
For interest sake, the correct spelling in Afrikaans would be 'Weerligstraal', we also make use of word 'Bliksem straal' as Piet mentioned above.

Thank you very much John and of course..welcome aboard!
 
First step in chapter 4 is to plank the beakhead bulkhead which is taking more time than I expected!
 
To ensure the plank edges lined up across the bulkhead, I glued prestained strips across the full length of the bulkhead. A pencil was used on one edge as usual to simulate the caulking. I used a piece of scrap planking on the deck to act as a spacer so I can slide the deck planking under the bulkhead planking and so get a clean edge.
 
Doors frames were cut out by drilling small holes at each corner before using a keyhole Xacto saw to rough out the door openings in the bulkheads and then filing to finish. The bowsprit hole was also drilled out before filing it to shape. The outer plank edges were faired in to match the bulkhead fairing except I left an extra ~1/8in on each side at the top. I did this to correct a fairing mistake as  I found I'd rounded off the top edges of the beakhead bulkhead. A light sanding was then done w 320 grit paper which showed how variable my initial staining depth was!  
 
Same steps were repeated to plank the inside of the bulkhead, except unstained planks were used given these planks will be painted crimson. Next steps are to add in the door jambs and frames, deck planking, treenails and of course restain the bulkhead planking! 
 
Thanks as always for the likes and a few photos are below!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I reaaly liked the brichwood black brass, in the midlle i rubbed it with paper after a one minute bath, and on the right side i rubbed it with steel wool

Good morning All!
 
Firstly, thanks Elijah...always great to have extra eyes checking things are OK.  And of course my thanks to all for the kind comments and the "likes"..always appreciated!
 
This week has been spent getting the deck completed. First up was I decided to plank the bulkheads by the false platforms.  Hardly any of this work will be visible in the end, but I expect a couple of viewing angles could show the plywood frames so I went ahead and did this.  It also gave me a chance to practice staining the basswood strips and matching up their colors. This planking ended up being more work than I expected, but I am glad I did it.
 
Attaching the false deck was the next step...as Chuck warns in his instructions, some filing of the slots was needed to get the decking to line up correctly along the center of the bulkhead former. I also had to make some shims as a couple of bulkheads were lower than all the others. I didn't want to push the deck down and end up with a low spot. Looks like I should have used a batten when setting the bulkheads to make sure their top surfaces were even...learning for the next build!
 
Final item was to compete the mast support holes. I'd already added some extra fillers by the masts for more support and the kit interestingly provides these!  I then drilled out the holes to a 1in depth using progressively larger drills. A bit nerve wracking as I needed a 7/16th drill for the main and foremasts, but all went well!  Final step was to cut the heads off some long 3in nails and drill some deeper holes to add additional support.  I will use these to help set the mast rakes per the Crothers plans of 1/8 per foot for the mizzen and main masts while the foremast is vertical.
 
Thanks as always for reading...images below. Next up is Chapter 4 and gun port framing!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 

Hi Rainbow
If you are talking about sanding the planks on the hull, then I think hand sanding is the best.
I was talking about sanding the planks before they are on the hull.
I use my sander for so many things.
Also the the size of the dish helps.
Mine is 10 inch so I have 5 inch of sanding area.
I use mine for making the masts and yards cone shape.
It is really fast.
I spin the yard with left hand, and a little pressure with the right
You can also see how small I can make things with zero clearence.
Joe

I'm a big fan of the Vallejo Model Color range: http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/model-color/family/15
 
It can be applied with hand brush or airbrush and is an acrylic.

I'm a big fan of the Vallejo Model Color range: http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/model-color/family/15
 
It can be applied with hand brush or airbrush and is an acrylic.

I'm a big fan of the Vallejo Model Color range: http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/model-color/family/15
 
It can be applied with hand brush or airbrush and is an acrylic.

I'm a big fan of the Vallejo Model Color range: http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/model-color/family/15
 
It can be applied with hand brush or airbrush and is an acrylic.

Hi there,
 
I've recently got back into model making.  I've never made a wooden model ship (or any other type for that matter!) My forté was 54mm - 75mm scale figures and dioramas.  However, a 20 year career in the RN left me with a liking for the sea and I'm now part way through an Amati HMAV Bounty (there's "dust" everywhere in my work area at the moment as I'm filling and fairing!) 
When I was modelling before, I had a little compartmentalised "tunrntable" that came from a graphics shop that I once worked in.  I used it for standing a lot of my tools and things in.
The better part of thirty years, umpteen house moves and a couple of kids (now adults) have left my turntable heaven knows where! 
 
So now that I've "returned from the cold', I need some way of storing my modelling tools whilst having them easily to hand.  This will not only keep my workspace clear, but also keep my tools in better condition and keep me from injuring my self on needlepoint sharp kit!
 
I searched everywhere in stationery stores and suppliers, graphic art shops...  Allsorts. Nothing.  So I turned my attention to E-Bay.  Eventually, I found something...  in "Health & Beauty"/"Make Up"/ "Make up tools & accessories"
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201479390299?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=500659444906&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
I'm not sure that the full link will show so it was described on E-Bay UK as
"360-degree Spinning Cosmetic Organizer Display Makeup Box Case Cleanup Rotating"
 
It arrived in just a few days and I set to, "adapting it" to my needs.  It's not finished but I have managed to clear a BIG space on my work table!
 
I thought it might work for someone else, so I've posted it here...
 
I hope it helps someone else.

Not the best job for sure but I'm happy that I finally have some progress with the planking
 
Hopefully with improve it in the end by sanding + some filling and with the second planking.
 


 
 

Hi Rainbow
Looks like you have a very good start. Planking is a learning thing. Different types of ships will be harder then others. 
The most important thing I learned is the planks should lay down without much force. I use the same bending tool as use have. It works well for bending the wood for the hull. I also use a curling iron at times. 
For your first build and the tools you have you are doing really great. I started out with a lot of wood experience, ( I built rc airplanes, and other wooden projects ) and had a boat load of tools ( power and hand tools )
You will get better, and it will be easier with every build.
Joe

She's still around: http://www.hokulea.com/
 
They visited Cape Town in December last year.