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About gsprings

  • Birthday 01/14/1969

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    Tallahassee, FL

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  1. Launching ways (Fun because I got to use trig to compute angles for machining channels in support beams):
  2. Long time, no update. That's not to say progress has not been made. Here are a series of posts to bring you up to speed. Completion of walnut layer planking. All in all, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, despite some errors.
  3. Progress to report! Second-layer planking has begun! Finally got up the nerve to start laying down the walnut layer of planking. I think I've said it before, but I'll say it again -- planking really intimidates me. However, so far, it seems to be going okay. I am focused on learning rather than on getting all the rules of butt joints right and all that. (I misread my practicum and screwed up the butt joints -- I've got the joints repeating every four layers instead of every five.) So for me that means a smooth layer with as few gaps as possible and no user of stealers or drop planks, i
  4. I just went to look at the Hunt practicum to see what wood planking I used for the transom walnut layer. Specifically, I looked at chapter 2.2.3, which details the two layers of planking for the stern transom. I actually couldn't find any specific mention in that chapter of the thickness of planking to use for the walnut layer (walnut planking starts on chapter 2, pg. 19). So, like you, I used the thinnest walnut planking in the kit, which is listed as 0.020" in the kit instructions (page 14) and 0.030" in the parts list. I would note that I sanded the transom and recoated it with sati
  5. Joe, Great to see another AVS build up and running! At your pace, you'll be ahead of me in just a couple more weeks. (My job's slowed me to a snail's pace.) Mind if I pull up a stool and watch the progress? I'll be getting pointers from you not too soon. Looking great so far! -- Greg
  6. Much time consumed over than past 4-6 weeks doing the painting and applying rail caps. I am not a huge fan of painting, and this process taught me a couple of things: 1) Do NOT use spray cans because you're too lazy to set up, take down and clean the airbrush. It's too easy to flood the area. 2) Be choosy about how you use different kinds of masking tape. I love the blue stuff, because of its ability to conform to compound curves, but it's a little thick, which creates some places where the lines are not so clean. Should have used the thin yellow Tamiya stuff in those places. Here are
  7. Thanks, guys. JP, I am definitely planning to spray paint. I bought the Bulwarks Red acrylic paint from Model Shipways, which I had planned to airbrush on, but the color looks a little too bright to my eye. So I've bought a few different spray can reds to see if I can find a version of red that I like better. In the meantime, I've had quite the odyssey with my Syren brass cannons (all my fault). I originally blackened the cannon using the Birchwood Casey Brass Black and got them all polished up. They came out really well and I was very pleased. So I put them all in a small plastic bag
  8. So all the summer activities really slowed progress. But I did take a couple of snaps to show what I've been able to get done. In progress on the companionway: More deck furniture, completed and located on deck (masking in place in preparation for painting): The piece parts of Syren's cannon and carriage: Template for locating drill holes for carriage ringbolts and boltheads: I'm looking to accelerate progress over the next few weeks. Painting awaits. I wanted to get the cannon carriages done so that I could do the red on the bulwarks and the carriages all
  9. Have made more progress and will post a fuller update with photos later, but wanted to do a quick photo essay on my approach to creating the scuppers and gold pinstripe on the top of the black strake.' First, I measured, cut and filed the scuppers. I am not very happy with the overall shape of the scupper. Not rounded enough. But in the interest of making progress, I'll live with what I got. The overall shape is not going to be very visible anyway, once I blacken the planking behind the scuppers. Then I clamped the piece in a vise and sanded to round the top outer edge ...
  10. I found that the most challenging part of the planking process was getting the width of the planks right, especially at the stern where they need to be wider. I was trying very hard to do the planking without adding any stealers, but ended up with some ugly looking planks at the stern, especially the ones where the lay of the planking goes from running flat to the stern to where they need to bend to run up to the counter. These two planks were difficult to shape and difficult to install, so I'm not sure I took the right approach. Since this was just a base layer of planking, I didn't worry
  11. Got the first layer of planking done and will post pictures, but I wanted to share a few pictures of the process first. I decided to try to use a method that I saw in a PPT presentation available here at MSW. The methodology involves marking off the plank width at each bulkhead then using packing tape to get the spiling profile for each new plank. Step #1: Lay packing tape over the adjacent plank already on the model. Step #2: Use a fine-tip sharpie marker to copy the line of the existing adjacent plank and the position of the bulkheads onto the tape. Step #3: Affix the tape to
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