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aydingocer

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Everything posted by aydingocer

  1. aydingocer
    Installed the borders on the floor: Earlier I had glued the sun bed on the rear deck to the plywood hatch which it sits on. Now I think it is not a good idea, since the sun bed will not fit in its place because of the white cushions around the frame. You will need to bend the sun bed a little to insert it, something impossible while it is glued on the hatch. So I detached it. Now in the photos you see the hatch without the sun bed:
  2. aydingocer
    Next, the small 3-piece metal components as in the pictures. There are about 5-6 of them in several locations on the boat: Instructions: Parts: Drilled, hammered and glued in place:
  3. aydingocer
    Build day 44. Decorations continued. Continued today with installing the metal ornaments and parts. First, the metal covers in the bow (whatever it is called in marine terminology). Nailed them all the way:
  4. aydingocer
    This is the status at the end of the day (front seats and blue cushions around the cockpit dry fitted at the moment). Thanks for watching!
  5. aydingocer
    Glued the lateral cushions on the cockpit and rear deck in place, as well as the cockpit floor pieces:
  6. aydingocer
    Glued the backseat on its base:
  7. aydingocer
    Next, I glued the rear deck sunbed to its wooden platform (or, the lid):
  8. aydingocer
    Build day 44. Decorations 1,5 hour today. 126,5 hours into build in total. I had been away for a trip to Turkey to visit my parents and now finally back at home. I had already painted the watermark before I left. As you see in the photos below, I decided to paint it black instead of white. I think it looks better this way. Opinions may differ, of course. Note that the waterline will still be covered with a thin strip of blue sticker, therefore the small impurities are not a problem:
  9. aydingocer
    I placed small pieces of making tape at certain intervals to make the waterline marks visible. It will be easier to locate the charcoal pencil marks which are hard to see. Then by following the lines, I merged the gaps between the tape marks by more masking tape: And finally cut off the initial tape pieces with x-acto knife: Waterline masking is ready now. Hopefully tomorrow I will have some time to waterline paint. That's all for today and thanks for watching. Aydin
  10. aydingocer
    Question: What can a play-dough have anything to do with model boat building? Hint: Check the base (where the boat stays on) which come with the model: Yes, you guessed right. The boat does not sit on the base horizontally, but instead with an angle tilted towards one side (just like how its position would be on a speedy turn to left). Though this posture gives a nice artistic look to it during display, it makes the base unusable for marking the waterline. Hence, enter the play doughs. Making use of their soft but solid structure I have been able to position the boat precisely horizontal for marking the waterline correctly.
  11. aydingocer
    Build day 43. Waterline painting... 1 hour today. 125 hours into build in total. Today I finished leather covering of the backseat and spent some time on marking the waterline. The seats and other cushion look like this now: The middle section of sunbed has been painted in white, like in the photos of the kit (though, depending of my mood and how much the color impurities on the blue-white borders annoy me, I can paint the whole thing to white) :
  12. aydingocer
    Excellent work with those painting techniques you guys have discussed above. I admire. I think I am happy with the interiors look in my Riva at the moment and I stop here in terms of paint. There is always a risk of ruining. I do have an airbrush but I have never actually used it other than some test sprays and I am definitely not going to perform my first use on this kit
  13. aydingocer
    Hi Per, Yes, indeed 70.966 is Turquoise. The one I used is 70.840 which is Light Turquoise and it was still too dark I had to mix it with white. The colors seem to get darker once they have cured. They look much lighter the moment of painting.
  14. aydingocer
    Build days 41-42. Upholstery work. 3 hours in 2 days. 125 hours into build in total. I was still not entirely happy with the tone of the blue color so I started to investigate a bit. I really want to catch that sweet turquoise on the actual boat. This blue which I currenty use, even though lighter than my first version, is still choking the boat a little bit, in my opinion. Here is are a few photos with dry-fit. (You will notice the bleeding blue paint on the sundeck towards the white area but I will either cover that section with faux leather or just paint white, for consistency) So I went to the hobby shop and bought a few colors to try. I finally ended up 50-50 mixture of the following light-turquoise and white colors: They form a lighter sweet turquoise (the photo does not reflect the actual color, unfortunately): I also covered the other front seat with leather. With new color look like this. I think they are much better: Next, I will cover the backseat with leather. Thanks for watching.
  15. aydingocer
    The seat has now been assembled after painting. In my opinion looks much better than the other one. I will re-do the other seat next. Now that my brush is soaked in paint, I decided to paint the rest of the "cushions". An example of how the colorful cushions will look on the boat (As per credit, the photo is from a French boat sales website http://day-charter.fr/listing/riva-super-aquarama-rental/
  16. aydingocer
    ...like a tiger, of course
  17. aydingocer
    End of build day 40. 2 hours today. 122 hours into build in total. By the way, as a side note, this is how a freshly varnished Riva should be handled . Thanks for watching.
  18. aydingocer
    Actually, before hearing any comments, I tried which I believe a better approach on the passenger seat: I ripped off the sides (they were apparently just glued to the center piece) and worked on 3 pieces separately, hence eliminating the risk of accidentally painting the leather or spreading glue on the sides. I have also used a different paint than the previous one. It is a water based airbrush paint which I happen to have found among my color collection from previous projects. This one is easier to apply (I used normal brush) and the color feels more.... how can I say... "fresh". Yes, that's the word! The seat looks much better now, with flawless leather cover and fresher blue: I will glue the pieces together once the paint has dried. I will also do the same to the driver seat.
  19. aydingocer
    Trying my luck with the faux leather sheets which I had mentioned earlier that I had a tailor run stitches through to simulate the seat covers. This is the leather sheet as it sits: And here is the "driver's seat": I have glued the leather and painted the rest with turquoise (the true color is lighter than in the photo). But I am not sure. On the one hand, it looks quite retro, just like the way they should be on a 70's Aquarama, on the other hand, they are not perfect. The other seat is the way they come in the kit. I have the possibility to wash the paint, rip the leather and do it from the start, though. The foldable trays will be installed on the back. What do you guys think?
  20. aydingocer
    End of build day 39. 2-3 hours today. 120 hours into build in total. At the end of these 2 days, I brushed the hull with 1 layer of GIT-ROT and 1 layer of Epoxy mix (50% Zpoxy and 50% denatured alcohol mix). I am thinking of 1 final layer of Zpoxy mix and then continue with varnish (water resistant Hempel Dura-Gloss Varnish). This is the status at the end of the day. Thanks for watching.
  21. aydingocer
    I have also received the waterline marker from Hobbyzone (www.hobbyzone.pl). It is a small kit in its own. This Hobbyzone has some nice products for the modellers, if you haven't checked already. I actually have my first blog in this forum about their building slip here : http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13422-hobbyzone-building-slip-for-wooden-ship-models/ So now I have my watermarker ready, once the glue has dried.
  22. aydingocer
    Build Days 38-39. Continuing with other tasks while waiting for the new electronic speed controller to arrive.... always waiting for something. I had been looking around for an oil dispenser which can deploy oil with precision, since the oil supply holes on the propeller rods are quite small. One idea was to use a syringe with needle but sales of syringe needles is strictly under control in Finland. Then a close friend of mine who works in a hunter's gears supplier here in Helsinki came up with this professional stuff: A gun oil with precision dispenser, apparently so called CLP (clean-lubricate-protect) grade. After all, I think my Aquarama deserves more than just ordinary sewing machine oil so I accepted the gift: Anyway, then I decided to make a suitable slot for the servo using some scrap wood since the dedicated slot in the kit appears to be too big for my small servo. Here are some photos of the progress, after some measurements: 1. Drill 2mm holes for the M3 size screws: 2. Enforce the holes with some super glue so that the screw won't break the wood (it actually did break at first try, you are looking at the photos from my second try now): 3. Test: 4. And the boards are in place. Note I had to saw off one of the screws as it would otherwise hit the wiring: 5. Measure and cut the brass chord between the right rudder and the servo: 6. Servo dry fit in place:
  23. aydingocer
    Thanks for the tip!
  24. aydingocer
    Thank you for the information, Sunsanvil. Everyday is a learning process
  25. aydingocer
    I burned the Electronic Speed Control yesterday. Luckily there was no damage to the boat. I was just demoing the LED lights. After a few seconds there came a huge smoke. The yellow wire's solder melted and came off. And when I checked the manufacturer's page, it was apparently not LIPO battery compatible! I have now ordered another model which is LiPo battery compatible. I had no idea that the battery type could be so important! I bought LiPo battery just because I read that they are supposed to be better. I would only check the voltage and amperes. Heh This was what came in the kit: http://www.mtroniks.net/prod/Boat-Speed-Controls/Viper-Marine-20.htm This is what I ordered now: http://www.mtroniks.net/prod/Boat-Speed-Controls/tio-Marine-15.htm My GIT-ROT Epoxy has arrived by the way. I will start soon to apply it on the hull. Can't wait, but it is quite busy at work nowadays... long days. So let's hope.

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