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aydingocer

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Everything posted by aydingocer

  1. BUILD DAY 13-14. PLANKING CONT'D. (and some electronic stuff, too) The weekend came after a relatively busy week at work which did not give me much chance to dedicate to kit. Luckily I was able to make good progress during the weekend. First I start with tidying up the excess plank extensions, using a saw.
  2. BUILD DAY 12. PLANKING CONT'D. 2 hours today. 41:30 hours into build in total. Continued with bottom section planking. Spent about 2 hours and the whole process went quite smoothly. Here are the final photos of the day:
  3. END OF BUILD DAY 11. 4 hours today. 39:30 hours into build in total. Most of today went to experimenting, thinking and planning, which was kind of nice, too. Thank you for watching.
  4. Left freely, both rods stay a bit off-positon. Need to fix that. Glued several strips to support the rods in the correct alignment: Some epoxy here and there to fix them to the position: Epoxy dried and the rods are now solid in correct position (Due to the camera angle they look like pointing offset the rudder holes, but in fact they point right at the rudder holes)
  5. BUILD DAY 10. PLANKING CONT'D and R/C INSTALLED Having figured out how tricky it is to insert the engine/rod component in the body even without any planking, I decided to take the risk and install it already. I know it will add more challenges especially in the second layer planking and sanding, but I cannot take the risk of being unable to install it. It takes a certain amount of fine tuning positioning the rods to get them lined up with each other as well as the rudders, and you need space to do it properly. So, here I go: Below are the rudder components. The metal ones in the middle are for display-only option. They are all you need if you go for it: Just glue them in their dedicated holes and that's it. All the rest (rods, washers, red plastic rudders, arms) are coming with the R/C kit, adding one more line to my shopping list: Buy proper brass rudders.
  6. END OF BUILD DAY 10. 4:30 hours today. 35:30 hours into build in total. This is the status at the end of DAY 10 .Thanks for watching.
  7. Thanks for the tip, Antony. It came in the right time as I was just about to order the brass propellers. In this case I will order the smaller size, since the main purpose of them will be for display pusposes.
  8. First motor in place, after quite a bit of tricky turns and twists. It is topologically possible to insert, but you'll have to find the right movements .
  9. Some details on installing the wires: The instructions for the ESC (electronic speed control) show wiring for a single motor and it has indeed for 1 set of wires, so the wires should be extended for double wiring: I show here for the black wires, same to be done for the red wires as well. Then each wire will be connected to the opposite poles of the engines (e.g. if red goes to the [+] of the first engine, then it goes to [-] of the other engine vice versa). So, strip the both ends of the wires, with one end stripped longer than the other: I use this wire stripper for this purpose. It is a bit on the higher end, but still not too expensive, good to have at home: Keep around 1/3 of the strings and fold back the rest (to be trimmed later): Merge the 2 wires by twisting the strings you have kept: Trim the excess strings you have folded back: Insert the twisted strings to the male connector and squeeze firmly using a pair of plies so that they won't come out (alternatively and for better, you can solder): Insert the male connector to the female connector coming out of the ESC. Now the other end (the end which goes to the engines): Slide the strings into the connector. The stripped length was still too long I had to trim them a bit: Squeze firmly using pliers: The photo below shows both [+] and [-] wiring in place (Now a pair of careful eyes will notice that there are still wires exposed in the connection points which will cause harm if they get water. I won't do anything to them at the moment, but when I do the final installation, I will cover them with heat shrink tube):
  10. And the funny fact with propellers. On the left, the propellers which come with the standard kit. On the right, the propellers which come in the radio control extension kit. Now, what's this? Does it mean that if you build it as a display kit you should use smaller propellers? I already made up my mind with ordering nicer looking brass propellers but this kind of discrepancy should not be in a high class kit like this.
  11. Now the bottom planking has reached the spot where the propellers and ruds will stick out, I resume assembly of the engine and rudder. I will fix them in their place so that the planking can continue. Assembling the rudders after the planks have been placed is not a big problem but since the propeller rod exits with an angle it would be extremely difficult to define the precise size, angle and the location of those hole after the planks have been glued. I can think of removing the engines once I've opened the hole. The spacers in the first engine set (which I had shown in my earlier posts) had unequal spacers (16mm vs 17mm) . Now the second set has equal size spaces (both 16mm). This means I will have to unassemble the first one and file the longer spacer by 1mm in order to equalize. This kit calls itself challenging but this is not what I would call a "challenge". It is fighting against poor quality. Remind you that the radio control kit is not made by Amati. However Amati sells it under their collection therefore they should be responsible for the contents. Having said that, I sent an email to Amati almost 2 weeks ago referencing this blog, asking how I can obtain a part which came broken in the package, but so far no response. Anyway, here are the spacers of the second kit. Correct in size, but one of them with burrs and impurities. Have to file it with a metal file.
  12. BUILD DAY 10. PLANKING CONT'D. Continuing with the planking today. I spent approximately 3 hours to glue 6 planks (3 each side). After that I have to stop for a while to install the engines in place in order to be able to mark the exit points of the rods correctly before planking the next strips. Same will go for the rudders as well. It will also make it harder to install the engines later as the planks will start to close the space available to install them easily. Aggressive curves begin to show:
  13. Hi Antony, Yes you have a point with shrinkage. I wait a little bit after bending it until the wood is somewhat dry, but it will sure still shrink further until it has been completely dried. I think this is the tool you've mentioned. I have it home and I have used it so far only for the most challenging bending jobs. Would be wise to use it also only for drying the wood before gluing.
  14. END OF BUILD DAY 9. 2:30 hours today. 31:00 hours into build in total. Two more planks before I call it a day. According to the instructions planking should continue from the bottom center after the first planks have been installed on the side at the designated spot. This is the status at the end of build day 9. Thanks for watching.
  15. Dashboard in place. Note that the only contact point with dashboard and the support behind it is in the middle. It is because they lie on different vertical angle.
  16. I was lucky that the file which I use had exact same size curve as the frames, making filing a breeze. If anyone would like to know, the file is a Bahco No.5. After filing:
  17. Frames on both sides of the dashboard. The pieces are glued as in the picture and then they'll be filed to smoothness once the glue has cured.
  18. BUILD DAY 9. DASHBOARD Alright, I think that the cockpit has sufficient amount of varnish already and it is about time to install the final pieces: the dashboard. Planking may continue after that. But before that, I would like to show something I had made earlier for soaking the strips. This has been my best friend at making it easy to bend the strips with the help of Amati plank bender. It is basically a plexiglass tube cut to size, water tightened from the bottom . It also has a cork to close from the top (see on the left, on the table), but since Riva Aquarama's strips happen to be longer than the tube, the cork is not applicable. Having the strips rest in it a few hours, it is extremely comfortable to bend them.
  19. That's a good advice, thanks. A simple accidental drop of varnish on the slip can indeed render the slip unusable especially if it hardens on the way of the moving parts.
  20. END OF BUILD DAY 8. 2:30 hours today. 28:30 hours into build in total. One more layer of varnish before I stop. Looking shiny already. This is the status at the end of DAY8 .Thanks for watching.
  21. 2 hours of filing and finally I guess it is ready. I will honor the dusty work by placing the first planks on the hull:
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