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aydingocer

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Everything posted by aydingocer

  1. aydingocer
    Build Day 38. 3 hours. 117 hours into build in total. While waiting for my GIT-ROT epoxy to arrive from the post with still a few days to go, I spent some time to get the radio control connections in place, together with invaluable help of a friend who is very handy in electronics. Now after the photos and testing with dry-fit everything works. I am able to speed up the propellers with one channel, rotate the servo (which will feed the rudders) with the other channel and even turn the front light leds on and off. Next job will be to fit them in the boat after applying the epoxy inside the hull. Here are some details: wrapped the battery with velcro and secured with staples. This way it will be possible to install it in any orientation in the boat (either on narrow face or on wide face depending). The battery connector was a different type than that of the electronic speed controller (ESC), therefore I had to cut if off and install a compatible one (red cut-off piece is the old one which came with the battery): Then I strengthened the connectors to the motors with real solder and heat-shrink tubes. Previously I had just squeezed them with a pair of pliers but it was apparently not good enough. They are solid now: Receiver: The "yellow-red-brown" set going to ESC and the "white-red-black" set going to the servo. The ESC: I noticed some more available slots on the receiver and decided connect the LED wires to it (in the below photo the "red-blue" pairs, one for left headlight and one for the right). So no need to hook them separately to the battery. The switch at the back belongs to the ESC. ESC is the only component which is connected to the battery (the others get the energy from the ESC, depending on how much it delivers), so its switch turns the entire circuit on and off. Well, this is all for now. I will post more photos of course, once they are in place. But first I still have to wait until the epoxy has arrived. Thank you for watching, /Aydin
  2. aydingocer
    Thanks a lot for the nice words, folks. I can't wait to finish the entire varnishing sequence to see the shiny look
  3. aydingocer
    Build Day 33-37. 5 hours in 5 days. 114 hours into build in total. I continued with deck varnishing while waiting for the GIT-ROT which I ordered from eBay to arrive for applying on hull (after testing, of course). In these 5 days I put - 2 layers of Z-poxy (diluted 50% with denatured alcohol), - 3 layers of Hempel gloss varnish (water resistant) and - 2 layers of spray gloss lacquer. I used 240 grit and 500 grit sanding between the coats. I think the deck is good enough now, although it could've been better, but I am not that experienced in surface finishing. There are some impurities which a pair of careful eyes will notice. However this is as good as it gets for me.
  4. aydingocer
    End of Build Day 32. 4 hours today. 109 hours into build in total. I just wanted to play a little bit with the upholstery (dry-fit) just out of curiosity. This is the status at the moment. Thanks for watching.
  5. aydingocer
    Ventilations for the front "bedroom" beneath the deck. It is also possible to just paint the surface black in order to simulate a hole, but I went the extra mile and drilled real holes. It looks cool when you put on a light in the bedroom. The metal blind dry-fitted:
  6. aydingocer
    Several holes of diameter 2,5mm should be drilled here and there on the deck to accomodate the following metal parts: They will be pushed when installed. This is just a dry fit to check that the holes are good enough to fit them:
  7. aydingocer
    Build day 32 - More deck components Today I continued with installing sax boards, drilling several holes for metal ornaments and a little bit of trial fit of the upholstery. Saxboards, 2 each side, 2 pieces each. The upper saxboard component is actually wider than the one below and forms a slot between the deck and the upper saxboard:
  8. aydingocer
    End of Build Day 31. 3 hours today. 105 hours into build in total. This is the status after today. Tomorrow I hope I can proceed more with deck details. Thanks for watching.
  9. aydingocer
    Moulding of bridge (#230 and #231). Their edges are visible hence I had to file and sand the edges in order to get rid of the burn marks caused by laser cuts. These edges will also have to be rounded. Here is the process: The moulds need to be bent, too. For example as it stands, the bigger piece looks like this: Bent: Dry fit after bending: .. and finally glued in place. Here is a demonstration of filing away the burn marks. This is the smaller piece: Before: In progress: After rounding the edges: Both parts glued in place:
  10. aydingocer
    Dashboard section: The two pieces on either side look and are identical, however they will need to be trimmed to different shapes to fit on the deck, since left and right side of the dashboard have different heights. But first, there is some extensive bending to be done for these pieces. Wetting and using plank bender is almost a must to accomplish it without breaking the pieces: I used a pair of clamps to let them dry in shape: ... and in place:
  11. aydingocer
    Deck components 236 and 221. Sanded, rounded (#236) and glued in place.
  12. aydingocer
    Next: Fenders on both sides using 5x5mm mahongay strip. Cut to size: Shape the edges Glue in place. There is a significant color difference with these strips compared to the hull but most of it will be painted in white therefore I don't worry about it too much.
  13. aydingocer
    Build day 31 - Sanding and more deck components I continue with fine sanding and then the plan is to assemble more mahogany deck components. The reason why I did not include them to the sanding process is that I thought it would be better to sand them individually and glue afterwards since they form bumps and bulge over the flat surface, otherwise would make sanding process more painful. For 240 grade sanding of the deck I use this sanding sealer: Sanding sealer brushed and waiting to dry: After waiting for about 30-40 mins (as instructed) I sanded the deck using 240 grade.
  14. aydingocer
    Thank you in advance. That'd be great. I will look into local shops and see if there is it or any equivalent, before bothering you.
  15. aydingocer
    Build day 30 - Sanding. 2 hours today. 102 hours into build in total. Today I continued with final fillings as well as first sanding of the deck. I think the filling job of the body is complete now and it is ready to proceed to finer sanding (150 grit). I also made a test of glass fibre + epoxy on a piece of scrap plank. Looks OK so far but I will know better after I have done 2-3 layers.
  16. aydingocer
    Hi Andy, So you have the front seat experience of an Aquarama! Cool! I have checked the online stores for this GIT ROT but it is available only in US shops which either do not ship to Finland or at ridiculous shipping rates. I will ask the marine shops around if they have that or soething equivalent. /A.
  17. aydingocer
    Build day 29 - Sanding. 2 hours today. 100 hours into build in total. Today I celebrate 100th hour! Cheers! Thank you Keith, for the kind and encouraging words. Today I spent around 2 hours for consecutive filling of the gaps. Nothing much to show. Just for the record.. and of course for the honour of 100th hour .
  18. aydingocer
    Build day 28 - Sanding. 3 hours today. 98 hours into build in total. Sanding finally started today. I spent altogether 3 hours: - Rasping and shaping the rear arc moulds, - first coarse sanding of the hull (not the deck, yet) using 80 grit paper with random orbit sander. - first filling of the gaps with sand dust / glue mix I had promised to post some photos during this dusty job. Here are some of them. First, I rounded the arcs with a rasp (check a few photos above to see their initial shape). The dark parts adjacent to the planks are not gaps, but laser burn marks. I will cover them with the sand dust filling as well: This Proxxon random orbit sander is my best friend in these days: Collected plenty of sand dust on the way. Left: sand dust. Right: rasp dust (for rough filling): After 3 hours of sanding with Proxxon, the hull looks smoother and the gaps have been revealed and therefore I thought it is time to make the first filling of the gaps. The paste I prepared with sand dust and white glue/water mix is quite thin, therefore I will need to repeat the filling process. This makes the progress slower compared to a thicker paste but I guess the result will be worth it. Here are some fillings. I will continue tomorrow with more fillings and corrections before moving to next sanding sequence. Thanks for watching! /Aydin
  19. aydingocer
    First of all, thanks everyone for the encouraging comments. Hi Per, Yes, deck will be covered with fiber-glass / epoxy solution just like the entire hull. I will also put Hempel yacht sealer in the cockpit and the engine area from inside. And then, paint where required (yes, unfortunately some part of this beautiful mahogany will have to be covered with paint, especially below the waterline) . So, that's the plan.
  20. aydingocer
    Below I am adding a series of photos showing the final planking process and the current status before starting smoothing work. I will try to post some photos during sanding when I can. Thank you for watching and see you later! Aydin
  21. aydingocer
    Build day 26 & 27. 2nd planking complete. 5 hours in both days. 95 hours into build in total. I spent some 5 hours in last two days and the 2nd layer of planking seems to be complete now (hopefully). Next few days of work will surely be the dustiest part of the entire project: rasping --> filing --> sanding, sanding, sanding... , filling the gaps, sanding sanding again... With this I am hoping to get rid of the impurities on the surface and get the model as smooth as possible. The heaviest part of this "smoothing" work will no doubt be rounding of the two "mould arcs" in the back top. These 10mm thick mahogany arcs need to be shaped flush on the edges with all the other deck components which they are adjacent to. Here are some examples of how much they have to be rasped and filed (tried to indicate the pattern with red lines):
  22. aydingocer
    There are several models of this boat (1965, 1972 etc), probably the difference is because of that. The kit (which is claimed to be museum quality by the manufacturer) is supplied with mahogany/lime for this purpose. I think it is the 1965 model. Anyway, a quick search in Google returned this Riva Collection museum in Italy: http://collection.bellininautica.it/en/museum/collection/ There are Aquarama boats in that museum with similar planking as in this kit. /Aydin
  23. aydingocer
    Build day 25 5 hours today. 90 hours into build in total. Today I had more spare time with my Riva. I glued the upper deck plank sheets and was even able to proceed on the front deck planking strips. After today it looks like my Riva has started to reveal its beauty, though slowly, but surely Upper deck mahogany sheets in place. Some of the gaps between the pieces were unavoidable, for example those on the side of the cockpit. I opted to leave equal gap on the other side for the sake of symmetry. Part of those gaps will be covered with ornaments and upholstery. Others, I will figure out either by filling with sawdust or just leaving like that and letting the varnish give its look: Deck strips, 1x1mm lime and 1x3mm mahogany, to be glued in alternating turns. The same pattern will be used in front deck as shown as well as on the engine lid at the back: Proceeding with the front deck planking. The ends on the cockpit side will be covered later with another mahogany sheet therefore the strips do not have to align perfectly on that side: This is the status at the end of the day: Thanks for watching. /Aydin
  24. aydingocer
    Deck 2nd planking. Most of it is uses 1mm thick mahogany sheets. Rest will be done using 1x1mm lime and 1x3mm mahogany strips. The parts: Before: After dry-fit:
  25. aydingocer
    Actually the second photo above does not have the faux leather on yet. They are just pure plastic seats right out of the box. That's why I will still give a try how they would look after I cover them with my leather sheets. Chances are I just give up the idea if it won't look good and just use them like that instead. I may also use some paint to color the sides to turquoise like in the upper photo.

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