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aydingocer

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Everything posted by aydingocer

  1. aydingocer
    Thanks Per! It is also exciting to know being watched ))
  2. aydingocer
    More lateral planking. Note that the parts have small groove at one end. It is essential to pay attention to orientation of the parts: Measure 2x6mm strips to act as spacers to above parts, using the plan sheet: Spacers glued in fornt of the support piece (which was temporarily fitted above - in the photo with masking tape):
  3. aydingocer
    More lateral mahogany planking sheets. I had to trim some 1mm for a perfect fit. Dry fit: Measure the trim: Trim (about 1mm): Glue in place: Repeat the steps for the other side.
  4. aydingocer
    Side supports for the backseat. The small metal squares which I had bought (from micro-mark.com if I remember correct) help well in these kind of tight places to ensure the right angle. A 4x4mm lime strip to reinforce the back support for the seat. Temporarily dry-fitted until the whole thing is glued in place:
  5. aydingocer
    The backseat. This is also one of the pieces which should be left removable if R/C option is used. I noticed that the part 116 was not perfectly flat. It was a little bit warped (about 1mm). It would look ugly if I use it just like that. For this reason I soaked it in water for a while and fixed it with clamps on an aluminum jig which I had lying on my shelf for other project. I will wait until tomorrow hoping that it flattens. If it won't, then soak it longer time and maybe use hair dryer while it is clamped.
  6. aydingocer
    I'll see if I can mend it.
  7. aydingocer
    Here the instructions call for a 2x6mm strip to be glued under part 49 to act as a support to the rear seat. Checked the length from the plan and glued it as seen.
  8. aydingocer
    Lateral plankings of the cabin. 1mm mahogany. The instructions say you can also nail them if you like, but I preferred to avoid it, not to take the risk of cracking them all the way. Mahogany, especially at this thickness is not easy to work with. Instead, I gave it a bend with the help of the frames in order to make it easier to position without applying too much force: Dry fitted and glued: Note that the front parts (the triangular ones) should be glued from the outside: Though this leaves an uncovered section in the middle, but this is compliant with the specs. Who knows maybe it will be covered later (I was too lazy to check forward). All in place:
  9. aydingocer
    The cover itself. NOTE for the R/C builders: This cover must not be glued but be removable. I just temporarily placed it in its place to let the glue dry at its correct shape:
  10. aydingocer
    Support for the rear cover. Glued in place:
  11. aydingocer
    Rudder supports on the bottom. The orientation of the two holes are important. Below I was first wondering "what is the gap here? There must be a reason?!?" Then I realized I glued the part 64 wrong! (First mistake in this project - so far). Luckily it was not too bad a mistake. I ripped the part off: Scraped the glue stains, and glued it back in correct position. Now looks better (phew). This would absolutely cause me a lot of trouble later because I noticed that it was partly blocking some slots above it.
  12. aydingocer
    Reinforcements reinforcements everywhere . I think this kit contains alone more reinforcement parts than all my past ship kits combined. Not that I complain . Of course it should survive moderate collisions and vibrations. Here are several photos in a row: the first one with list of parts followed by the rest showing them installed in their places. Here the boat turns to side for the first time:
  13. aydingocer
    Cockpit has now been covered with mahogany planks:
  14. aydingocer
    I would expect the manufacturer to pay attention to the direction of the grain when placing the parts on laser CNC. It would look much nicer if they did it:
  15. aydingocer
    The mahogany parts have laser burns around the edges. I thought they may cause trouble later during the finishing phase if I use them just like that, so I sanded away the burns from the visible edges. Before: After (a different side than above):
  16. aydingocer
    Cockpit plankings, 1mm mahogany sheet. Don't they look like tangram parts to you, too? After dry-fit test, one of them was slightly (less thn 0,5mm) too long. I cropped it:
  17. aydingocer
    Going through the parts and sheets according to the plan of the day, this was a unpleasant surprise. Many parts on the 1mm thick mahogany sheets had spread away (most probably during shipment) resulting in one of the parts to break. Anyway not too big of a disaster. I quickly taped the part on the sheet and carried on.
  18. aydingocer
    BUILD DAY 3. CONTINUING HULL CONSTRUCTION One thing I started to like about this kit among other things is that it has a substantial amount of hull work, as opposed to most ship models where it is mostly all about assembling the keel + bulkheads and planking.
  19. aydingocer
    Hi Grant. Sure I am scouting ahead in the instructions for that. The steps seem to clearly define which parts and sections should not be glued but made removable for those who go for the R/C option. I have hit some of such steps at today's build which I will be posting this evening.
  20. aydingocer
    Thanks Wolf!
  21. aydingocer
    Chris Craft was also one of my candidates but eventually I ended up buying this one. Good luck with that and I will be following your log!
  22. aydingocer
    END OF BUILD DAY 2. 9 hours into build. This is the status at the end of DAY2 .Thanks for watching.
  23. aydingocer
    Cockpit parts dry-fitted and glued in place. Some of this section will be covered with mahogany sheet.
  24. aydingocer
    Prow section is getting into shape:
  25. aydingocer
    As I mentioned the curvy body of this boat, the frames often form a bulge at the corners at first. Like in this photo: It also shows in the instructions if you look closely: These will of course be smoothened later.

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